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1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award

Thursday, 26 July 2012

Noël Pinguet's last vintage: three 2011 secs from Huet

2011 secs: Le Haut Lieu. Le Mont and Clos du Bourg 

Although these three 2011 sec samples arrived from Domaine Huet (Vouvray) in late June, I have not been in a position to taste them until yesterday. No bad thing as this has given the wines more time to rest after bottling. 2011 will be the last vintage made by Noël Pinguet, who resigned in February having been running the estate and making the wines since 1976.

2011 Le Haut Lieu sec
Mid-lemon and the palest of the three secs as well as having a slightly lowered degree of alcohol – 13% against 13.5% for Le Mont and the Clos du Bourg. Delicate but discreet floral and lemony aromas, citric palate with some weight and length but lacking complexity. This is particularly noticeable going back to it after tasting the other two – 2011 Le Haut Lieu lacks that extra dimension. It is often the case that the other two vineyards, right on the premier côte, have greater depth and complexity.

2011 Clos du Bourg sec
Slightly deeper in colour than Le Haut Lieu, the Clos du Bourg is noticeable more generous and textured on the palate with citric as well as slight mousseron aromas. The quite richly textured fruit is well balanced by crystalline acidity and has length and complexity. Can be drunk with pleasure now but will gain additional complexity with more time in bottle. 

2011 Le Mont sec 
Similar colour to the Clos du Bourg with a touch of exotic fruit aromas – none of these secs are very expressive aromatically at present. Good fruit texture and again well-balanced with quite marked acidity.   

Of the three I have a slight preference for the Clos du Bourg over Le Mont but this may well change with time!    

1 comment:

Luc Charlier said...

The 3 “cuvées spéciales” are all dry. You already mentioned the owners are heading for more dry wines. Does this mean to say they have not fermented any sweet “Bourg” or “Haut-Lieu” at all in 2011? I cannot remember an occasion in the past when you had several versions on the same site, but I’m not the expert you are. In a sense, it is a bit shocking. Vouvray, if you ask me, is one of the few Mecca’s of GREAT liquorous wines in the world.
I hope we won’t end up NOT fortifying any Maury, by the same token.