Loire – two recently enjoyed – 2007 Montlouis and 2012 Côte Roannaise

2007 Remus, Montlouis, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, 

Jacky and Joëlle Blot

 

2012 Rimoz, Côte Roannaise, Domaine de la Rochette, Famile Néron

Two recent treats: 

2007 Remus, Montlouis, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups

2007 was a latish vintage – another year that was helped/ turned around by some fine weather. I was surprised by the richness of this 2007 as initially the dry white wines were quite lean and precise. This still has clean acidity in the finish but, as I say, this was richer and more honeyed on the palate. At first there were some wood notes but these soon blended in harmoniously with the wine.  

Lovely to drink now but this has years of life ahead.

2012 Rimoz, Côte Roannaise, Domaine de la Rochette 

This is the top wine from the Néron family – fermented in a demi-muid (600 litres) and then aged in demi-muid for eight months. Rimoz is an excellent illustration that there are exciting things happening the the Côte Roannaise. This has lovely ripe, red fruits, texture and complexity. Just delicious! 

I was kindly given this bottle as a present by the family during my visit to the Côte Roannaise and Côtes de Forez in March 2014.  

2008 Mi-Pente, Bourgueil, Domaine de la Butte

2008 Mi-Pente, Bourgueil, Domaine de la Butte

Now approaching six years from harvest time, this 2008 Bourgueil (100% Cabernet Franc) from Jacky and Joëlle Blot is starting to show very well and was delcious with a roast chicken on Saturday evening. Mi-Pente is the top cuvée from Domaine de la Butte coming from vines in the middle of the slope, so equating to Grand/Premier Cru in Burgundian terms.  

2008 is not as opulent as hotter vintages such as 2005 or 2009 but does have very attractive fruit and texture, good length and ripe acidity in the finish. So drinking well now but should continue to do so for a good length of time – for the rest of this decade anyway.    

Le Bistrot@Les Belles Caves Tours

Menu for two courses from 18€, 40 wines by the glass 

and 1200 references on the wine list

On the last Friday of our recent stay in the Loire went to the Domain de la Taille aux Loups to taste the 2012s with Jacky Blot as well as pick up some 2012 Montlouis we had reserved last autumn. Following the tasting we were invited to lunch by Jacky at the Bistrot des Belles Caves in Tours, which Jacky and Joëlle Blot opened early last September.  

The 2012 Montlouis from Domaine are tasting well at the moment – once again underlining that 'difficult' less sunny vintages often lead to more interesting dry Loire whites than hotter years. The 2012s have texture, some weight but above all they have a vibrancy and balance – they should age well.

The 2012 Rémus (Montlouis) set the tone with its balance, while Rémus Plus is currently less open but has greater length – sufficiently impressive for us to add a late case to our reservation. The impressive Clos Mosny with its touch of honey and attractive texture shows that the Blots are getting to grips with their latest Montlouis vineyard – acquired in 2010 after the vintage and now being transformed from a politic of quantity to quality. In contrast the nearby Clos Michet is simpler, less intense and complex. 

Across the river at Noizay (AC Vouvray) the expressive Clos de la Bretonnière has a buttery character with a touch of oak with the small Clos de Venise parcel a step above – more finesse, a lightly floral character, citric, vibrant and long lasting.

Then a look at three of the 2012 Bourgueils – very interesting to compare the ripeness on le Haut de la Butte with its touch of green pepper and the richer, riper flavours of Les Perrières and Mi-Pente. Once again Les Perrières showed its delicate power, less muscular than Mi-Pente but classy.  

Then it was off for lunch at Le Bistrot des Belles Caves, 23 Rue du Commerce, Tours (02.47.05.71.21) in the centre of Tours between the Rue Nationale and the Place Plumereau. 

On entering the Bistrot there is a bar and sitting area that leads through to the wine shop, where you can either buy wine from all over France to take away or drink in house by adding a flat 10€ fee to the retail price. This is surely the eminently sensible approach to pricing wine in a restaurant. Le Café de la Promenade in Bourgueil has a similar system – adding 8€ to the retail price but, of course, overheads are lower in Bourgueil than in central Tours. 

I had three courses (24€ – 18€ for two courses) starting with a delicious, quite thickly sliced seared tuna with a light salad. A perfectly cooked piece of cod followed. I finished with a sophisticated rice pudding. 

   

Brilliant – just seared tuna

    Perfectly cooked, moist cod

Opulent and creamy rice pudding with a caramel crème chantilly

We drank a fine 2010 Saint-Aubin from Domaine Hubert Lamy followed by a rather over-rich 2011 taburnum (100% Viognier) from Les Vins de Vienne, which was my choice!   

 

The retail shop

Some local wines

The bar area

The restaurant area (above and below)