Pierre & Bertrand Couly
Saturday, 29 April 2017
Trio of very recently enjoyed Loire wines
Pierre & Bertrand Couly
Thursday, 27 September 2012
2012 Loire: Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu
Wednesday, 7 September 2011
2011 Loire vintage: more news from Muscadet – Jérôme Choblet (Domaine de Herbauges)
It is somewhat frustrating: I should really be out in the Loire seeing the vintage rather than being in London, despite the prospect today of tasting some interesting wines at 'the dirty dozen' tasting.
Unfortunately when CRM and I made our plans for 2011 we assumed that if we returned to the Loire in mid-September we would catch, as usual, much of the vintage. Due to various commitments it hasn't been possible to change our plans. Thankfully we were in Touraine at the end of August so caught the start in the Cher Valley. As it is we are now unlikely to see any of the 2011 harvest in the Pays Nantais, although we hope to catch the end of the vintage in the Central Vineyards.
So it is good to get news from producers. Here is an update from Jérôme Choblet.
Thursday, 25 August 2011
Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu: hail storm Monday 22nd August
Monday, 4 July 2011
2011 Tour de France: Eric Chevalier is the Loire vigneron for Stage 3
My guess – not a very difficult one! – is that this stage will end in a sprint. It would be good to see Mark Cavendish open his account for the 2011 Tour here.
Sunday, 20 February 2011
Another couple of Muscadets
First up La Noë from a parcel that records show was first planted in 1694 (white grapes). This is 15 years before the extraordinarily severe winter of 1709, which is said to have persuaded produces that the Melon de Bourgogne was the right grape variety here because it resisted the prolonged cold. The La Noë vineyard is on granite with very little soil. Eric Chevalier is best known for his Fie Gris but his Muscadets are also impressive. The 2009 La Noë has buttery weight balanced by a good mineral grip in the long finish.
Alexis Sauvion is an organic Muscadet producer in Vallet with 27 hectares of vines. They also make a range of jams and jellies – see here. I first tried the 2009 Climat back in June 2010 (see post). It has taken on more weight since then but although it is well made it still lacks the complexity and mineral excitement of top Muscadet. Estelle Sauvion had recommended that I tried it on several occasions, which I did. Perhaps I should have put it into a carafe.
Saturday, 16 October 2010
Absolutely cracking wines from France 2010: 11th October
Wines tasted:
2009 Romorantin, Vin de France, Un Saumon dans La Loire, Frantz Saumon (£15.50 Les Caves de Pyréne)
2007 Le Volagré, Montlouis, Stéphane Cossais (£29.99 Les Caves de Pyréne)
Sainbury's have long stocked this Chinon, this 2008 is in a quite ripe, light style with sooty fruit. Selected by Tim Atkin MW.
Thursday, 23 September 2010
2010 Muscadet (part two): Côtes de Grandlieu
Jérôme was very pleased with a new picking machine called Selectiv' Process made by Pellenc that he had rented during the harvest. Unfortunately he had had to return it the day before so we didn't get to see it. A new machine costs 190,000€, so the Choblets had wanted to try it out before investing in one.
Serge Batard checking the press
Part of a trailer load of hand picked grapes
"It is a delicate vintage," Serge reported. "There is more rot than in 2009. We had a storm on the 7th/8th September with 50mm of rain, which restarted some rot, which had appeared in July but had dried out. I reckon we have lost about 10%-15% of the harvest because of this. The younger vines seem to have been hit more than the older vines. 2010 is not the vintage of the century for us!"
Serge reckoned he had about three days of picking left. Even though Serge was not very happy with the vintage the grapes that I saw on the trailer looked pretty good – presumably the pickers had done a good job in the vineyard rejecting rotten grapes.
Eric Chevalier: Domaine de l'Aujardière, Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu
Since he took over from his father, Gérard, on 1st April 2006, Eric has rapidly established himself as one of the new stars of the Pays Nantais, so it was good to be able to make a quick visit to his domaine, which is to the south east of Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu.
Although Eric's domaine is only about 18 kilometres away (in a straight line) from Serge in Saint-Leger, he didn't get the early September storm that has disrupted Serge's harvest. "Storms often pass on one side of the Lac or the other," Eric explained. He had just arrived with a trailer of machine-picked Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris). 'We started this morning at 7am – yesterday it was 5.30am. It's coming in at 12.6%, so again no need to chaptalize (adding sugar to the must) this year, which makes it three years in a row. We started on the Fie Gris Jeunes Vignes last week. Picked the Melon on Friday and Saturday. The yields are good along with the quality – 85/90 hl/ha for the Chardonnay vin de pays."
We tasted various juices – Chardonnay (rich and clean), Pinot Noir for the rosé, Fie Gris and Melon. All tasted clean and promising, so will be good to taste the finished wine. At least five generations of the Chevalier family have farmed here. Gérard, Eric's father, was the first to decide to specialise in wine. He was also one of the first in the district to plant varieties to make vin de pays – pulling out Gros Plant and Melon to plant Chardonnay and Fie Gris.
The domaine has 30 ha of vines – 12 Melon de Bourgogne and 18 vin de pays. 30% of their sales are from the cellar door and between 30%-40% export. Eric is imported by Kermit Lynch into the US and by Lea & Sandeman and SWIG into the UK.
See my report on Eric Chevalier following the 2010 Salon des Vins de Loire here.
Thursday, 22 April 2010
2009 Sauvignon Vin de Pays Domaine du Haut Bourg
Saturday, 13 February 2010
Salon des Vins de Loire: Eric Chevalier
Thursday, 1 October 2009
2009 vintage@Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu
Jérôme Choblet: "The quality is extraordinary and as well we have a normal yield for the first time since 2005 – the last three years have been very difficult. We have finished the Melon de Bourgogne. Nothing came in under 11.5% potential and most of the crop has been around 12% potential. Acidity is between 3.5g-3.8g. We have 55hl/ha for the Melon and 65hl/ha for the Chardonnay vins de pays. We'll finish the Chardonnay tomorrow morning. It's been coming in at 12.96%-13.30% with the acidity between 4.2-4.4g.
Tasting the juice of both the Chardonnay and the Melon showed both to be impressively rich, clean but with good freshness in the finish. Indeed very like all the juice that I have so far tasted in various parts of the Loire over the past week.
Driving away from Bouaye towards our chambres d'hôtes in Monnières the exterior temperature at 6.20pm was still 24.5˚C – quite extraordinary!
(to be finished)
Monday, 31 August 2009
2009 looking promising in Muscadet and Saint Nicolas + two departures
"We'll probably start harvesting around 14th September, although some of my neighbours may begin next week around 9th-10th. The technical people started checking the vineyards last Thursday to determine the date for the ban des vendanges – the grapes are at 9˚ potential alcohol with 7/8 g acidity, which is quite low for this stage."
Pierre and Jérôme have promised to send me photos of their grapes, so I look forward to getting these and posting them up on the site.
Incidentally Guy Bossard's domaine is still for sale.
Frédéric Mabileau (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil/Bourgueil)
Fred: "There is some rain forecast for this week but it will probably pass to the north of us. If it doesn't rain the grapes will be very concentrated, very small with thick skins, which will make the fermentation difficult. However, the Chenin vines at Le Puy Notre Dame are not suffering from water stress at all. I had thought that we might start harvesting at the end of September but the drought is slowing ripening, so I think it will now be the beginning of October."
As Thomas explains:
I'll act as an agent/importer to open up distribution in Southern states (North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia...). My role will be to find the distributor that most suits each brand/producer, take care of the logistics from winery to distributor warehouse, providing updated trade information, train the sales team, support the sales rep in the market, create incentive and make sure of re-orders.
I'm looking for wineries that use organic or sustainable agriculture, harvest by hand, natural yeast, what we should expect to have a "Vin de Terroir".
Contact details:
Address : 701 Davie Road - Carrboro NC 27510
cell : (919) 619-2087
Email tm.meunier@gmail.com
Pierre Pichot
After four years at Interloire looking after exports, Pierre is leaving to set up an oyster bar in Les Halles, Tours. This will allow him to continue to promote Loire wines, which are naturally a great foil for oysters. Indeed there is a view that oysters were designed and invented specifically to go with Muscadet and Gros Plant. Pierre's bar is due to open in late October – around 24th.
Monday, 13 July 2009
Muscadet: 'très grands vins blancs français'
Jim: Bonjour Jérôme. Quelles nouvelles pour les vignes. Floraison bien passés? etc.
Jérôme: Bonjour Jim. Pas en France en ce moment mais quand je suis partis tout allais pour le mieux dans les vignes
Jim: C'est bon. En vacances?
Jérôme: Non en Chine, cela va vite devenir notre premier marché
Jim: Intéressants! vite?
Jérôme: Et la Chine ne s'arrête jamais donc l'été c'est le seul coin du monde où on peut encore faire des affaires.
Jim: Tu reviens quand? Parce que je vous donnerai un coup de Skype pour parler vignes en 2009.
Jérôme: Ici nos Muscadet Côtes de GrandLieu Sur Lie sont reconns comme de très grands vins blancs français, et nous pouvons les valoriser beaucoup plus que dans le reste du monde
Jim: Tes Muscadets sont en Chine depuis quand?
Jérôme: Depuis un peu plus de 2 ans
Jim: Incroyable croissance!
Jérôme: On en a vendu 38.000 Bt en 2 ans, et on a déjà plus de 50.000 Bt en commande pour livraison fin d'année, ça augmente très vite
Jim: Felicitations!
Jérôme: Ils adorent, même si il ont dans la tête les vins rouges, lorsqu'ils goûtent ils préfèrent largement les vins blancs.
(Jérôme explaining that the Chinese treat Muscadet as one of France's 'grands vins blancs' and accord it greater value than do many other markets around the world. Although he has only been exporting to China for little more than two years, Jérôme has already sold 38,000 bottles and has orders for another 50,000 to be delivered before the end of this year. Jérôme says that although the Chinese think they like red, when they taste they actually prefer white wines.
Hopefully the 2009 vintage will be of average volume, which will ease the supply crisis after two small vintages, especially the frost devastated 2008.)














































