Proposal to ban imports of red and white blended rosés

Hervé Lalau's considered response to 

the proposal to ban imports of blended rosés

My Les 5 du Vin colleague, Hervé Lalau, slates here the attempt to have imports of rosés, made by blending red and white wine, into the EU banned. We had this debate in 2009. It appears that we will again be subjected to this tedious debate over whether blending red and white wines to make rosé is a complete heresy.

The OIV should tell the French rosé producers that such a ban cannot be considered until the practice of blending red and white wine to make a rosé in Champagne is banned. That I suspect would be the last we'd hear of this nonsense.   

EU drops rosé blending proposal

This afternoon the European Commission dropped the proposal to allow the blending of red and white to make rosé. Mariann Fischer Boel, the European Commissioner for agriculture and rural development said that: "I am always prepared to listen to good arguments -- that's why I am making this change."

If there were any good arguments in favour of maintaining the European ban on blending red and whites I haven't heard them. I fear this is another instance of the European Commission and politicians, especially, in France bowing to emotional ignorance and prejudice. Over the last 20 years all attempts to modernise the French wine industry have come to nought and I'm sure that this will continue. I imagine that producers outside Europe will be toasting this climbdown very happy that Europe has decided to remain uncompetitive, especially in new markets in Asia.

I assume that the producers of the Côtes de Provence will now lobby the INAO with vigour pleading that their right to make rosé with four white grape varieties is removed as soon as possible from the rules that govern the production of Côtes de Provence so that there is no longer the possibility of making a Côtes de Mélange.

Had the producers of rosés from Provence been more convinced by the quality of their product, I fancy they would have been more relaxed about a proposal that shouldn't have been a threat.

Wine flu rosé: a sadly truncated debate with Jean-Pierre Gilbert

Rosé de Loire, Claude et Joëlle Papin, Château Pierre-Bise: another quality rosé under no threat from the EU proposals

I spent some time yesterday attempting to debate the rights and wrongs of the rosé debate with Jean-Pierre Gilbert, who has a site called gilblog. I had noticed his posting on La Nouvelle République blog and decided to respond. I was taken by his vehemence and that he appeared to think that Quincy made a rosé.

Unfortunately Jean-Pierre cut the debate short as you will see. Did he find the questions I asked impossible to answer? Presented with some uncomfortable facts did he shy away from debate? Or did he merely find the debate tedious. Who knows?

Jean-Pierre Gilbert’s posting on the Nouvelle République blog:

Le mardi 2 juin 2009 à 21:18, par gilbert18
Le projet de réforme, qui veut autoriser les mélanges de vins blanc et rouge pour faire du vin rosé, a donné lieu à un vote préliminaire des 27 représentants de l'Union européenne le 27 janvier 2009. Michel Barnier y était, il a voté pour.

Si la Commission européenne voulait tuer le rosé français, elle ne s’y prendrait pas autrement. Elle a adopté depuis janvier un règlement européen (équivalent d’une loi) d’application directe qui autorise dans toute l’Europe le mélange du vin blanc et du vin rouge pour créer et commercialiser un “faux rosé”. Ce règlement ouvrirait la porte du marché européen à tous les “faux rosés” du monde. Une vote définitif devait intervenir le 27 avril, après un avis de l'Organisation mondiale du commerce (OMC). Vous allez apprécier le choix du vocabulaire: l'objectif de la Commission est de “libérer” l'Union européenne des "entraves oenologiques" pour s'ouvrir de nouveaux marchés. En clair ça signifie: annuler les règlements et pratiques garantissent un certain niveau de qualité, et laisser vendre des bibines et n'importe quoi.

Michel Barnier a déclaré que cette fois il voterait contre. Nous étions nombreux à observer son vote.

Sur mon site www.gilblog.fr je cite Périco Légasse, adversaire acharné de la mal bouffe qui s’indigne dans Marianne: “Obtenir du rosé par ajout d’un peu de vin rouge dans une cuve de vin blanc relève de l’immoralité absolue, de la tricherie la plus infâme, du maquillage sordide. C’est pourtant ce que les valeureux défenseurs du projet constitutionnel de 2005 et de son avorton de Lisbonne s’apprêtent à légaliser. Ces gens ne reculent devant rien pour immoraliser notre monde en laissant libre cours au néo-libéralisme le plus voyou.”

Alors, adieu nos rosés du Berry, nos gris gouleyants, nos Sancerre, Menetou, Châteaumeillant, Quincy, Reuilly?
Pour accompagner la mal bouffe, le mal boire?

••

A balloon powered by the hot air and indignation generated by the opponents of red/white rosé

••

My first post www.gilblog.fr – similar to the one posted on the NR blog:

6th June 2009 10.36am
‘Et le Rosé Champagne? Depuis longtemps souvent une assemblage du vin blanc et du vin rouge. Une fabrication? Je pense pas.

Si on regarde le décret d’appellation pour Côtes de Provence Rosé on voir que les cépages blancs (Clairette, Sémillon, Ugni Blanc et Vermentino) sont déjà autorisé:

INAO
Décret n° 2009-356 du 30 mars 2009 relatif à l'appellation d'origine contrôlée « Côtes de Provence »
1° Encépagement :
a) Les vins rouges et rosés sont issus des cépages suivants :
Cépages principaux : cinsaut N, grenache N, mourvèdre N, syrah N, tibouren N ;
Cépages accessoires : cabernet sauvignon N, carignan N, clairette B, semillon B, ugni blanc B, vermentino B.

Il y a pas de menace pour les rosés du Berry: Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Châteaumeillant et Reuilly.* Les gens qui achete ces rosés achete pas un rosé vin de table. Le seul menace pour ces rosés de Berry est si le prix est trop élèvé pour la qualité.


* Rosé de Quincy n’existe pas – l’appellation est seulement pour les blancs (Sauvignon Blanc).

••

Jean-Pierre’s response: Gilblog 3.33 pm 6th June 2009
La question est de savoir si des technocrates européens incultes vont ou non autoriser de mauvaises pratiques sous l'influence d'un lobby. Les viticulteurs français et les gourmets sont attachés à la qualité qui est issue d'un savoir faire véritable. Autoriser les vins de mélange et les classer dans la même catégorie que les bons produits est un danger pour l'avenir du vin, pour les vignerons, et une tromperie envers le cnsommateur (il y a eu, malheureusement, des précédents, et c'était en France...). Si d'autres veulent en produire qu'ils inscrivent clairement VIN DE MÉLANGE sur l'étiquette, mais je doute du résultat commercial. Et c'est bien l'enjeu de cette affaire : nous vendre des mélanges sous l'appellation rosé, comme on a voulu dans le passé vendre du "champagne" fabriqué en californie ou ailleurs.

Je consomme parfois des rosés du Berry (notamment des Reuilly), car ils sont bons! Pour moi, le plaisir et la qualité ne se mesurent pas en euros ou en dollars, mais avec les sens et l'intelligence que nos parents et le bon Dieu nous ont donnés.

Merci Jim, j'ai déjà bu du Champagne rosé. Je sais aussi que le Quincy est un blanc, mais que deviendrait l'appellation si ce blanc était un jour présent dans un mélange ? ... Une fois, j'ai bu un étrange Quincy qu'un négociant français exportait aux USA....

••

My 2nd post: 5.06pm 6th June 2009

Jean-Pierre:

‘Autoriser les vins de mélange et les classer dans la même catégorie que les bons produits est un danger pour l'avenir du vin, pour les vignerons, et une tromperie envers le consommateur (il y a eu, malheureusement, des précédents, et c'était en France...).’

Le proposition est pour les vins de table pas pour les appellations comme Sancerre, Menetou-Salon sauf un jour un syndicat d’une appellation demande le droit d’assemblé rouge et blanc pour faire du rosé.

VIN DE MÉLANGE? Non toujours une assemblage! Si les Champagnes Rosés que vous avez bus était fait avec du rouge et blanc c’était une assemblage ou un mélange?

Le Champagne Rosé fait avec du vin rouge et du vin blanc est ‘une tromperie’ ou pas?

‘Une fois, j'ai bu un étrange Quincy qu'un négociant français exportait aux USA....’

Regrettable mais c’est une autre sujet.

••

Jean-Pierre: 5.37pm 6th June 2009
‘Suite et fin. Jim, je connais la différence entre assemblage et coupage ou mélange. L'assemblage fait partie des méthodes d'élaboration du Champagne, des vins de Bordeaux, et d'autres, dans le cadre des appellations. Mais là n'est pas la question.

Certains lobbies (y compris français), veulent " alléger certaines procédures administratives, supprimer certaines contraintes, ouvrir la panoplie des pratiques techniques, culturales et œnologiques, et laisser aux professionnels des marges d'appréciation et de décision". Cette porte ouverte à la confusion autorisera sans doute les copeaux de bois dans les cuves, et l'affaire du vin rosé (coupé ou mélangé c'est la même chose) se situe dans ce cadre. Alors que, grâce aux efforts de nombreux viticulteurs, la qualité et la fidélité au terroir progressent, d'autres acteurs veulent imposer les méthodes du mauvais marketing et leur conception agressive du marché. La qualité y perdra et toutes les dérives seront possibles, c'est pourquoi nous sommes nombreux à défendre le vin tel que nous l'aimons. Comme dit Jacques Puisais que je cite dans gilblog : "Un vin juste doit avoir la gueule de l'endroit où il est né et les tripes du bonhomme qui l'a fait". Point final.’

By this stage it looked like Jean-Pierre had had enough of the debate. However as he hadn’t fully addressed the question of Champagne Rosé made with red and white wine, I posted once more. ‘L'assemblage fait partie des méthodes d'élaboration du Champagne’ hardly answers the question of why is blending red and white wine acceptable in Champagne but for a still rosé a monstrous fraud – ‘l’immoralité absolue, de la tricherie la plus infâme, du maquillage sordide’ (Périco Légasse)

My 3rd post 6th June 2009

Jean-Pierre. Comme vous j'aime beaucoup les vins de terroirs – de la Loire en particulier.

JP: Mais là n'est pas la question. “Pourquoi? Qu’est-que ce la difference entre une Champagne Rosé fait avec du vin blanc et du rouge et une rosé tranquille?

C'est dommage que vous n'avez pas répondu aux questions que j’ai posé.

Si on regarde le décret pour AC Côtes de Provence on trouve celui-ci:



b) Assemblage des cépages : 
Les vins rouges et rosés proviennent de l'assemblage de raisins, de vins en cours de fermentation ou de vins, à l'exception des vins issus des cépages blancs lorsque ceux-ci sont vinifiés séparément, issus de deux au moins des cépages prévus dans l'encépagement, dont au moins un des cépages principaux. La proportion de l'ensemble des cépages principaux ne peut être inférieure à 50 % de l'assemblage.' 

Forcement une Côtes de Provence fait avec les cépages blancs est une assemblage des vins qui a fini leur fermentation.

Forcement une Côtes de Provence fait avec les cépages blancs est une assemblage des vins blancs et rouges qui a fini leur fermentation.’

••

Unfortunately this post was deleted. Perhaps JP was at a loss to explain why blending red and white wine to make a Côtes de Provence Rosé is acceptable ‘partie des méthodes d'élaboration’ and blending non-appellation red and white wines to make rosé is ‘fraud’.

Clearly debate is limited on Gilblog, so that it looks like JP has had ‘Point final’ (the last word). ‘Libre de penser, libre de dire, libre d'écrire,’ (free to think, free to speak, free to write) says Périco Légasse – sadly only in small, regulated doses on Gilblog.

Incidentally reading Périco Lagrasse attack on the rosé proposition helps to explain the vehemence of the opponents of ‘red/white’ rosé – all part of a fiendish neo-liberal global plot!

Hot air balloons in Touraine

Nasty case of rosé coloured (s)wine flu

The new proposals are no threat to quality rosés like this one from Jean-François Mériau

The reaction to the EU rosé proposals appears to becoming even more hysterical and ill informed. On Hervé Lalau’s Chroniques Vineuses there are two recent posts. The first is an open letter to Mariann Fischer-Boel from the l'Assemblée des Régions Européennes Viticoles (AREV). One has to wonder from its tone whether this superheated and decidedly hysterical letter was composed by AREV’s distinguished delegates after a good and copious lunch where testing the quality of their rosés had been perhaps a tad over-enthusiastic.

The other post points out that it is not the EU that is pushing to bring the Europe wine regulations in line with the OIV (The International Organisation of Vine and Wine) but the French Government keen to modernise its wine industry. This explains why back on 27th January 2009 the French minister of agriculture voted for the proposals.

Over the years it has become abundantly clear that one of the biggest threats to the French wine industry is from certain elements within the industry itself. The campaign by the rosé producers is a classic example. The campaign is fuelled by emotion and very short on facts. Another example of a segment of the French wine industry throwing their toys out of the window while their coach hurtles over the cliff.

Nowhere have I seen the rosé producers explain why blending red and white wine together if Champagne producers have long used this method. No explanation as to what is the difference between blending red and white grapes to make rosé as is permitted in the Côtes de Provence – they are allowed four: Clairette, Sémillon, Ugni Blanc and Vermentino?

From the décret (law) that sets out the criteria for Rosé de Provence:

INAO
Décret n° 2009-356 du 30 mars 2009 relatif à l'appellation d'origine contrôlée « Côtes de Provence »
1° Encépagement :
a) Les vins rouges et rosés sont issus des cépages suivants :
Cépages principaux : cinsaut N, grenache N, mourvèdre N, syrah N, tibouren N ;
Cépages accessoires : cabernet sauvignon N, carignan N, clairette B, semillon B, ugni blanc B, vermentino B.

Furthermore the regulations insist that if using white grapes to make rosé they should be vinified separately and not mixed in with the red ones:

From the décret (I have made the salient phrase in bold):
'b) Assemblage des cépages :
Les vins rouges et rosés proviennent de l'assemblage de raisins, de vins en cours de fermentation ou de vins, à l'exception des vins issus des cépages blancs lorsque ceux-ci sont vinifiés séparément, issus de deux au moins des cépages prévus dans l'encépagement, dont au moins un des cépages principaux. La proportion de l'ensemble des cépages principaux ne peut être inférieure à 50 % de l'assemblage.'

Nor have the rosé producers explained that there won’t be any change to appellation laws under these new proposals, so appellation rosés will continue to be made as before.

•••

Unfortunately La Nouvelle République’s bloggers (here and here) have also been infected by this virulent rosé wine flu. gilbert 18 claims that if the blending of red and white wines to make rosé is permitted then the rosés of the Loire’s Central Vineyards will disappear: 'Alors, adieu nos rosés du Berry, nos gris gouleyants, nos Sancerre, Menetou, Châteaumeillant, Quincy, Reuilly ?
Pour accompagner la mal bouffe, le mal boire ?' *

Utter nonsense, of course. These rosés are not under threat at all. The only possible threat is if the price is too high for the quality in the bottle. This is already the case for a number of Sancerre rosés. However, despite this they continue to sell well. As for Quincy rosé it doesn’t exist – AC Quincy covers only whites made from Sauvignon Blanc.

I have posted a response on the NR blog this morning and another person has also posted a comment in support of the proposals.)

The use of the word 'mélange' is pejorative as it means throwing things together without thought. I imagine that all of the rosés made by mixing red and white wine are a careful and deliberate blend – ‘assemblage’ in French.


* Despite this unfortunate rush of blood to the head gilbert 18 (Jean-Pierre Gilbert) does have an interesting blog about the Berry.

Provence rosé ought to be in screwcaps

A return to Parsons Green this morning for a tasting of rosés from Provence – Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence. Incredibly of the around 80 wines in the tasting a maximum of four were closed with a screwcap – completely stupid if the producers of Provence rosé are serious about increasing their share of the UK market.

There is still plenty of room for debate over whether screwcap is the best closure for wines designed for long aging but I think there is little doubt that screwcaps are the best option for wines that will be consumed quickly and informally. Screwcaps make these wines easy to open and to seal – ideal for picnics or busy restaurants. They avoid cork taint – much more apparent on a delicate rosé than a robust red. Furthermore major UK retailers now expect screwcaps for these types of wines as both Nick Room (wine buyer for Waitrose) and Chris Hardy (head wine buyer for Majestic Wine Warehouses) confirmed at the tasting.

I suspect that once again the tyranny of the French sommeliers and their resistance to screwcaps bears a significant proportion of the blame for keeping Provence rosé producers behind the times and crippling their UK export drive.

•••

The Provence rosé producers are continuing their misguided campaign against blending white and red wine to make rosé – long standard practice in Champagne with a petition here. Although this morning there were some pleasant enough rosés, many of the 80 odd rosés shown this morning were pretty bland and anonymous. Fine on a fine day in a restaurant on the Côte d'Azur with some grilled fish but hardly worth rushing to the barricades for even if their future was threatened by the new proposals – which it is not.

This evening happily drinking and enjoying Frédéric Mabileau's 2008 Osez Rosé de Loire with its attractive pear and red fruits flavour and fresh finish. 12% alcohol compared to 13% or more for most of the Provence rosés.

Fellow writer, Hervé Lalau, has another posting on the rosé controversy. This time from a Swiss perspective.

Rosé blends: playing politics!

The discussions and political posturing over whether the EU will allow the blending of red and white wine make rosé continues and get more tedious and silly by the day.

Here is a piece written by follow journalist Hervé Lalau expressing similar exasperation over the French position on this issue:

'It is so very strange to hear French Minister of Agriculture Barnier phasing such negative comments about rosé blends (red + white) - the 'infamous' proposal made by the European Commission, in the framework of its new viticultural practices project. Nothing in this proposal seems to suit the French Minister, who sees it as an attack on authentic wines. So he wants to ban blended rosés in France, at least.

Apparently, though, Mr Barnier does not know the subtleties of this case - or so he pretends. The Brussels proposal only concerns non-appellation wines, so nothing prevents Côtes de Provence, Anjou, Tavel or other AOCs from banning coupage, or blending red and white wine, if that is what they wish (the main problem for them being to ensure that their winegrowers abide by the official rules - which is not even always the case today, as I am told).

And as concerns non appellation wines, a ban is ridiculous: blending would just mean that European vin de table (mostly brands) could at last compete with SA or Chilean rosés at the lowest price segment on export markets. One is not speaking here about heritage wines, or even terroir wines, so authenticity is not relevant. Price is.

And please, Mr Barnier, let us taste and judge by ourselves if all Côtes de Provence are really better that blended rosés.

Another surprising mistake by the Minister: doesn't he know that Champagne rosés have been using white-red blending for years? So are they artificial? Not authentic? Does he intend to ban them also?

Bah, this is only a political stand. Mr. Barnier is about to resign so that he can lead the UMP list for the European elections and he may wish to leave the impression that he has done something for the winegrowers - curiously enough, he was nowhere to be heard in the recent debate about wine & cancer. What a pity!

By the way, the French representative at Brussels did vote in favour of the Brussels proposal, which means that there was an agreement amongst French winegrowers at the time - negotiations did take place at the French national level, and the ministry surely knew it. A communiqué by the AGEV (French wine producers' association) confirms it.

This is a-only a smokescreen. But it won't improve France's credibilty in Europe.'

Hervé's original version in French can be found here.

French producers face new battle

Fight to save 'real rosé'

No sooner has the battle over paying for tastings and being able to mention alcohol on the net been won than the French wine industry has embarked on a new fight. This time over the practice of blending red and white wine to make still rosé, which has hitherto been illegal in France. Curiously it is allowed when making rosé Champagne as well as other sparkling rosés, like Crémants.*

Under a new agreement the EU will be soon lifting the ban on blending red and white wine to make rosé. This will apply to vins de table and not to AC or VDP wines. It will bring the EU into line with practices in South Africa and Australia. Apparently all 27 members of the EU voted on this proposal on 27th January 2009 with the French representative alleged to have voted in favour. There will be another vote on 27th April.

The producers of rosé in Provence are particularly incensed by the lifting of the ban, afraid that the market for rosé will be flooded by container loads of cheap rosé resulting in thousands losing their jobs or livelihoods. Frankly I would be amazed if the lifting of the ban had much effect on employment in Provence as I'm sure that diners in restaurants along the Côte d'Azur will continue to drink Provence rosés with their bouillabaisse.

The European Commission is apparently now considering the French objections. It is possible that the reform will be delayed or that there will be special labels to denote French rosé made by the traditional method of using only red grapes.

In the Loire any likely detrimental effect that the lifting of the ban might have would be on the producers of Rosé d'Anjou.

Further details here and here.

* 12th March: I gather from the eminent and estimable Joël Deniau of the Syndicat des Crémants de Loire that the position vis à vis Champagne mixing red and white wine to make rosé is apparently not as clear cut as many assume. Joël tells me that there is no text or décret that authorises this practice even in Champagne. There is a widespread assumption that this type of blending is allowed and it is not a question of illegal practices.

The World Trade Organisation is due to give its advice on the reform of the laws applying to rosé and Joël anticipates that the blending of red and white wine will be permitted for all sparkling wine.

15th March: Comment by Michel Smith on Hervé Lalau's blog.