James Millton (Millton Vineyards, NZ)@Peter Hahn (Vouvray)

 Peter Hahn in his Vouvray vineyards (Clos de la Meslerie)

Peter Hahn and James Millton

Back in June, our last Touraine visit with James Millton was to see Peter Hahn at his Le Clos de la Meslerie in Vouvray. Peter is American but has long lived in France. His background is in finance. He bought the Clos and its three hectares of vines in 2002 with 2008 being his first vintage. Before buying Meslerie, Peter had been searching for a suitable property throughout vinous France.  

Peter has documents about the estate dating back to 1620, while a plaque on the front of the house is dated 1766.  

The vineyards are farmed biodynamically. The wines are natural. I first tasted Peter's Vouvray at the RAW fair in London and was very impressed with his wines. Peter is experimenting with using mechanisation as little as possible.

The wines are imported into the UK by Dynamic Vines. Bottles sell for around £30, which is a very good price for a recently established Vouvray producer. Peter makes just one wine per vintage. He was fortunate in 2013 as the June 17th hailstorm stopped just 50 yards away to the west of the property.   

After visiting the vineyards and the winery, we tasted four vintages from 2012 back to 2009. 

2012 (2 grams of residual sugar)

Lean, witch hazel nose, attractive texture, citric flavour particularly grapefruit, quite lean acidity in the finish. This 2012 is a success given the difficult vintage and is considerably more complex and interesting than some 2012 Vouvrays I have tasted.  

2011 (10 gms residual sugar)

Sweeter nose than the 2012, richly textured, good length with an austere finish, aromas of peach and apricot in the empty glass. 

2010 (40 grams residual sugar) 

This was my favourite wine of the flight with quince flavours, opulent texture and concentration. Lovely balance. Should age for many years. 

2009 (30 grams residual sugar)

Floral aromas – quince again as well as white truffle, good texture with a mineral finish.  

 

  

Le Clos de la Meslerie 

The estate dates back to 1620. 

(above and below)

 

The 1766 plaque

 

James praying for the bees? 

The end of successful flowering – June 2014 

A quince tree beside the vines 

Quince is a frequent tasting note for Chenin Blanc

The chai

The cellar 

 Peter in the winery

2009 Le Clos de la Meslerie 

The Dirty Dozen: more Loires – Dynamic Vines

2008 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant

Dynamic Vines showed a range of wines from France as well as a few from Austria, Italy and Spain. 

The 2008 La Coulée (£38) was a very pleasant surprise – easily the most convincing Coulée I have tasted for some long time. Light golden colour with vibrant rich and concentrated fruit – some honey and a touch of oxidation, which works adding complexity to the wine.     

2008 Les Veilleurs, Cheverny, Domaine de Veilloux

The 2008 Les Veilleurs (£9.95) is a soft, easy drinking red although with quite present acidity, which is often a characteristic of the 2008 vintage, from a producer who has impressed me over the last couple of years. The 2008 is 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay, while the 2009 version of this cuvée is a blend of Pinot Noir 65%, Gamay 25%, Cabernet 5%. Probably best served lightly chilled.

2007 Ancestral, Julien Courtois

The third Loire shown by Dynamic Vines was 2007 Ancestral (£14.10 – a blend of Gamay and Côt) from Julien Courtois. This has a quite attractive earthy character, although the tannins are a touch green in the finish but I'm sure that with food this wouldn't show. Again could be served lightly chilled.