Adegga Christmas Market: 1st December – report on the Premium Room

As promised on Saturday my report on the Adegga Christmas Market held at the Marriott Lisbon on 1st December 2016. This report first appeared on the Adegga website.

The Adegga Christmas 2016 Wine Market
The Premium Room

Intro 

This December 2016 edition was the 20^{t h} Adegga Wine Market. Over the years the Premium Room has given those prepared to pay the additional fee (free for privileged journalists) the chance to taste some wonderful wines. Entry to the Premium Room for this edition cost 50 € compared to 15€ for a basic ticket. However, the additional 35€ was actually brilliant value giving the opportunity to experience a remarkable vertical tasting of Niepoort’s Batuta (Douro) from 1999 to 2014 as well as a short range of fascinating Ports with two from the 1930s. Just buying one of the Ports – the Burmester 1952 would have set you back 400€.

When I taste and drink wine I place a lot of importance on the texture of a wine – the mouth-feel, so in my notes on these wines you will find more comments on texture rather than trying to link flavours to particular fruits, etc.
It goes without saying that my notes and thoughts on these wines are based on tasting without food. Drinking wine with food makes a large difference – tannins and acidity that are too apparent when tasting are softened and hidden.

When André Ribeirinho asked me to write up this edition’s Premium Room tasting for the Adegga website, he kindly offered me a fee. However, I declined the fee as I didn’t want this report to be seen as an advertorial. Also I have been privileged to be invited on a number of occasions by the Adegga team to taste the Premium wines, so I am very pleased to have this opportunity to say thank you.      

Whites
1. Monte da Ravasqueira MR Espumante 2012
Ravasqueira is in the Alentejo a little to the north of Evora. This recently launched sparkling wine is made entirely from Alfrocheiro and spends 36 months sur latte. Initially pungently yeasty, floral notes develop in the glass. This is crisp clean, apéro sparkling wine with some depth.
Website: www.ravasqueira.com

2. Quinta do Sibio Samarrinho 2015

Although Samarrinho is an indigenous variety from the Douro and is often found in the region’s old vineyards, this is the only Portuguese wine made from this variety. The Quinta do Sibio in the Douro is part of the Real Companhia Velha group. The 2015 has an attractive unusual floral and citric nose with good mouth-filling texture, long finish with fine balancing acidity. This is a good example of how good the balance of fruit and acidity now is in Portuguese whites. It also strongly suggests that if other producers have access to Samarrinho it merits vinifying it on its own.  
Website: realcompanhiavelha.pt/pages/quintas/8

3. Quinta da Alorna Marquesa de Alorna Grande Reserva 2014

Alorna is an estate in the Tejo. The Marquesa de Alorna Grande Reserva is made from a blend of indigenous varieties. A proportion of the wine is fermented and aged for three months in French oak. A delicate lightly citric nose, quite opulent texture/mouth-feel, this is still quite tight in the fresh finish. Would benefit from more time in bottle. I would wait another year or so. 
Website: alorna.pt/Home 

4.  Quinta Maria Izabel Vinhas Velhas – Vinhas da Princesa 2014

This Douro quinta is to the east of Peso da Régua. Vinhas Velhas – Vinhas da Princesa is a blend of mainly Rabigato, Códega, Viosinho and Arinto from vines aged between 15 and 80 years. However, some of the varieties in the very old vineyards cannot be identified. 10% is vinified in stainless steel, while 90% goes into 500-litre French barrels.  

Mid lemon colour, a lightly floral nose, attractive mouth texture, touch of oak with good freshness and length. Can be drunk now but will benefit from further time in bottle.
Website: www.quintamariaizabel.pt

5. Quinta dos Carvalhais Branco Especial

Carvalhais is a well-known Dão domaine in the Sogrape group. The Branco Especial is a blend of Encruzado, Gouveio and Sémillon and a fascinating blend of vintages – 2004, 2005 and 2006. Light gold colour, showing some evolution – slight oxidation but adding complexity. The Especial has a tight, austere but long finish and I would be inclined to put it into a decanter before serving.
Website: www.sograpevinhos.com

6 Anselmo Mendes Parcela Única 2011 (double magnum)

From the good and excellent value Pingo Doce own label Alvarinho made by Anselmo through to this lovely Single Vineyard, Anselmo Mendes is the magician of Vinho Verde. Initially the Parcela Única has quite a yeasty nose, lovely restrained texture, elegant length of quite austere fruit in the very long finish.  Just beautifully balanced and one of my favourite Vinho Verdes. Where's the crab or grilled turbot?! 
Website: www.anselmomendes.pt

Reds

7. Quinta do Portal Touriga Nacional 2000 (magnum)

The family-owned Quinta do Portal is high above Pinhão in the Upper Douro. The 2000 Touriga Nacional is still quite ruby coloured but becoming bricky at the edge, lovely herbal aromas, seductive texture with soft tannins. This is a mid-weight, elegant Douro red showing how well these wines can age. Enjoy now!
Website: www.quintadoportal.com

8.  Monte da Ravasqueira Touriga Nacional 2012

Ravasqueira is in the Alentejo a little to the north of Evora. The 2012 is very youthful in colour and aromas with tannins quite present – indeed a tad dominant making this a quite butch style Douro red. Ideally the 2012 needs several more years in bottle or a big steak!
Website: www.ravasqueira.com

9. Quinta do Piloto Coleção de Familia 2013

Quinta do Piloto is in Palmela to the north of Sétubal. The 2013 Coleção de Familia comes from a 60-year-old vineyard and is mainly Castelão (90%) with 10% of other varieties. It has a youthful ruby colour with warm seductive aromas and mouth-filling texture with quite marked tannins in the finish. I would decant this to drink and enjoy now or keep for another couple of years before trying again. However, the 2013 Coleção de Familia is more ready to drink than Ravasqueira’s 2012 Touriga Nacional.

Website: www.quintadopiloto.pt

10. Mouchão Tonel n° 3-4 2011

Mouchão in the Alentejo is one of the great historic estates of Portugal and Tonel n° 3-4 one of its iconic wines. Unusually Alicante Bouchet, a teinturier grape, is the star variety here and Tonel is 100% Alicante Bouschet from their Carapetos vineyard. Mid-plum colour with a warm herbal nose but quite restrained. Delicately textured initially but marked power and structure soon becomes apparent. Long, quite tannic finish, needs another four or five years to show its real best.

Last July I visited Mouchão. Here is a report on the visit from my Jim’s Loire blog:

http://jimsloire.blogspot.pt/2016/07/mouchao-portugals-tondonia.html 

Website: www.mouchao.pt

11. Quinta da Carvalhais Reserva Tinto 2011

Carvalhais is a well-known Dão domaine in the Sogrape group. The Resserva Tinto 2011 has a touch of gaminess on the nose along with red fruits with opulent seductive mouth-filling texture. Well structured with some quite marked tannins in the very long powerful finish. Decant for an hour or so or wait another two or three years. Will be a lovely bottle.

Website: www.sograpevinhos.com

12. Casa Ferreirinha Quinta da Leda 2014
Casa Ferreirinha is also part of the Sogrape group and is their high quality Douro brand. The winemaker is Luís Sottomayor. The 2014 is a blend of 60% Touriga Franca, 15% Touriga Nacional, 15% Tinto Cão, 10% Tinta Roriz. Still youthful colour, lovely soft texture, structure and some tannins in the long finish. The 2014 has length and power but also delicacy – a fine bottle now but can certainly be kept.
Website: www.sograpevinhos.com

13. Quinta dos Murças VV47 2012.

The long established Quinta dos Murças in the Douro with 155 hectares of vines between Regua and Pinhão was bought by Esporão group in 2008. This wine comes from vines planted in 1947 and is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz. The 2012 is dark, dense, plum coloured with a rich herbal nose, mouth-filling texture, length. The powerful finish includes the frequent Douro tannic grip. It can be drunk now especially if decanted but I would look to keep this for at least another year or two before trying again.
Website: www.esporao.com/pt-pt/sobre/quinta-dos-murcas/

Batuta by Niepoort – the vertical: 1999 to 2014
Batuta was born in 1999, so we were very privileged through Dirk Niepoort’s generosity in providing this vertical tasting of this Douro wine from 1999 to 2014 with just two vintages not shown – 2002 and 2006.  

Batuta comes mainly from north-facing very old vineyards from Quinta do Carril, where the vines are more than 70 years old. Grapes also come from older vines (about 100 years old) near Quinta de Nápoles, the home of the Niepoort Douro winery. Fermentation takes place in cone-shaped stainless steel vats and wooden barrels. Batuta is aged for 22 months in French oak barrels, with 25% new oak.

This vertical tasting again brought to the fore Dirk Niepoort’s signature – the remarkable delicacy and finesse in his wines. Batuta is far removed from some Douro wines that are over-extracted with too much tannin. Some of these Batutas recalled the finesse of good Pinot Noir – little wonder that Dirk is a big fan of Burgundy.
Website: www.niepoort-vinhos.com/

14. 1999

Lovely spicy complex nose, complexity on palate, rich but wonderful delicacy, too. Delicious if perhaps slightly drying in finish. Would consider drinking up any bottles fairly soon.

15. 2000

Spicy nose a little less opulent than the 1999. Again delicacy, which is a touchstone of the Niepoort reds, is showing here. Has a resemblance to the sexy seductiveness of a fine Pinot Noir. A star.

16. 2001 (magnum)

Once more the warm, spicy signature aroma. Less opulent than 2000 and 1999.

A leaner colder vintage or is this an effect of this coming from a magnum? Tannins showing in finish but would be masked by food.

17. 2003

Mid plum, a little bricky at the edge, seductive mouth-feel and texture, rich wine, sweet fruit runs through. Opulent and very seductive but there is always that impressive delicacy – these Batutas are not Douro brutes!

18. 2004 (magnum)

Mid plum, red fruits, spicy nose, lovely delicate texture, length, some tannins showing in finish but ripe and well integrated. Lot of charm.

19. 2005 (magnum)
Still youthful mid-plum colour, spicy red fruits nose, sweet texture, structure in finish, complexity and length. Integrated tannins in finish. Lovely wine.

20. 2007 (magnum)

Mid plum, delicate red fruits nose, delicacy not a heavyweight, has balanced thread that runs through. Finesse over power.

21. 2008

Youthful mid-plum colour, red and black fruit aromas. The spicy notes of the older wines have been replaced here by an emphasis on fruit. Power, length and finesse.

22. 2009

Mid plum, opulent spicy nose – return of the spice! Mouth-filling texture, lovely delicate but enveloping texture. Excellent length and great balance. Lovely wine. Drink now or keep.

23. 2010

Mid-plum, quite dense colour. Seductive red fruits nose, again lovely texture, rich, quite marked tannins and structure. Can be drunk with pleasure now but will certainly keep for a number of years.

24. 2011

Mid to dark plum, some spicy texture, red fruits, touch of dried mushrooms, length, power but delicacy too.

25. 2012

Mid plum colour, warm red fruit aromas, cherries, texture leaner more restrained and without the same opulence as the 2011 and with grainier tannins.

26. 2013

Mid plum, some faint wood notes, lovely red fruits, sweet texture, very good seamless balance and length. Can be enjoyed now but certainly can be kept for at least five years or more as this vertical clearly demonstrates.

27. 2014

Mid-plum youthful, violets, quite floral aromas, youthful and vibrant, delicate but tight in finish with fresh fruit flavours of a young wine. Well-integrated tannins. Mid-weight. Fine potential. 

Ports

I increasingly find tawny and colheita Ports more interesting and complex than Vintage, unless it is very mature and the spirit has become fully integrated and sweetness calmed. There were some lovely Ports here.

28. Quinta do Noval Vintage 1994
One of the most iconic Douro Port estates sited above Pinhão in the Upper Douro bought by AXA Millésimes in 1993. Spicy cherry nose. Spirit shows a little but some attractive cherry flavours. Length and power. The 94 needs more time with some spirit still showing through in the finish.
Website: www.quintadonoval.com

29. Noval Colheita 1976
Walnut colour, nutty austerity, quite austere texture and power. Touch of appealing harshness with great length – great. This is very fine and although admittedly it is 18 years older than the Vintage tasted above it reinforces my feeling that Colheitas tend to be more interesting and complex than Vintage Ports.
Website: www.quintadonoval.com

30. Calém Colheita 1961
Calém along with Barros, Burmester and Kopke are now part of the Sogevinus group.

The 1961 has a delicate mid-gold colour with aromas and flavours of nuts and dried herbs, good concentration along with lovely finesse too. An excellent and delicious Port.
Website: www.calem.pt

31. Burmester Colheita 1952
Burmester along with Barros, Calém and Kopke are now part of the Sogevinus group.

Mid burnished gold, still rich dried fruit – apricots and sultanas, great finesse and delicacy, length. A glass to sip and enjoy at the end of a good meal. Lovely!

Website: www.burmester.pt

32. Kopke Colheita 1957
Kopke along with Barros, Burmester and Calém are now part of the Sogevinus group.

Mid to deep burnished gold, sweet raisined fruit, a little touch of alcohol, quite austere finish providing an interesting contrast to the residual sweetness. Very long finish.
Website: www.sogevinus.com/kopke/

33. Real Companhia Velha 1938
The first of the two pre-Second World War Ports, this comes from old vines at Quinta das Carvalhas in the Upper Douro on the south bank of the river. Mid gold colour, still quite sweet dried fruits on palate. While attractive the 1938 doesn't have the complexity and finesse of some of the other Colheitas here.
Website: www.realcompanhiavelha.pt

34. Niepoort Colheita 1934
Deep burnished walnut colour, concentration of sweet dried fruits, apricots and raisins allied with lovely austerity. Very long, complex finish. This has that fantastic combination of fruit and almost painful austerity that I love in old fortified wines whether they are Ports, Jerez or Madeira. 

Truly stunning – great wine!
Website: www.niepoort-vinhos.com/

Adegga Christmas Wine Market 2016 – some photos

Adegga Winemarket @The Marriott Hotel, Lisbon

A vertical of Niepoort's Batuta (Douro): 1999-2014

a highlight of the Premium Room 

Deliocious chocolates filled with Port and Madeira
One of the Port chocs went well with Noval Vintage 1994 

giving it added complexity 

 

1999 the first vintage of Batuta  

2011 Mouchão Tonel No 3-4  

Tonel is an iconic Portuguese red  

Some lovely Ports:

 Calém 1961 Colheita 

 Burmester 1952 Colheita 

 Kopke 1957 Colheita 

 A tug of war or struggling with waxed capped bottle? 

Another star treat from Niepoort
1934 Colheita

A detailed report on the wines in the Premium Room will follow.

Mouchão: Portugal’s Tondonia

Scenes from the winery 

(This post was originally published on Les 5 du Vin on 12th July 2016)

Last Thursday (7th July 2016) we headed out from Lisbon to the Alentejo for a day visit to the fabled Mouchão estate. Normally the Alentejo in summer is hot and dry. Instead on Thursday we were met with heavy rain lit up by impressive flashes of lightning. We were shown round by David Marques Ferreira, who has been estate manager for the past three years. CRM and I had met David at last December's Adegga Wine Market in Lisbon.

 
David Marques Ferreira

Established in the 19th century Mouchão is the oldest estate in the Alentejo – the other side of the River Tejo. The 1000 hectare estate is owned by the Reynolds family, who in the 19th century, were the leading producers of cork. At the end of the 19th century they decided to diversify  into wine and in 1890 planted their vines – they have 38 hectares with no intention to increase the area under vine. They chose to major on Alicante Bouschet, a teinturier  variety, which remains Mouchão's signature grape variety. David Ferreira –Alicante Bouschet is "our body and soul". The winery was built in 1901.

"Alicante Bouschet gives us more than just colour," David Ferreira explained. "We get big tannins and freshness. Our vines are at 200 metres altitude, which is high for the Alentejo. Some of our vines are at 300 to 400 metres, so we get freshness and acidity. This helps our wines to age well – the 1954 is still good".

"Although we have a variable geology, sand and clay is the basis, so we retain moisture during the hot summers," Ferreira continued. "The estate is between two rivers – hence the name Mouchão. We are very much in the middle of nowhere".

"We work very traditionally here – limiting production, hand picking, no destemming, wholebunch  fermentation, foot treading in lagars and a manual press etc.We mainly use old vats of 5000 litres and prefer French oak with malo in barrel but also use some Brazilian wood. "

A barrel from the time when the estate was confiscated 
and run by the local cooperative 

The estate remains in the Reynolds family, which is now into the seventh generation. However, there was a ten-year interruption of ownership following the 1974 Revolution. The estate was confiscated and the wines were made by the local cooperative and sold under the co-op's name. It was returned to family ownership in 1985.

"The vineyards were in a poor state," explained Ferreira. "Nothing had been planted and existing vines had not been maintained. We nearly lost our Alicante Bouschet!"

We tasted five wines:

2015 Dom Rafael Branco – blend of Antão Vaz and Arinto 7.69€
Still very youthful and tight in the finish but with attractive pineapple and grapefruit notes. Good value.

2013 Dom Rafael Tinto – blend of Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Aragonez 8.99€
This spends one year in a mix of large vats and small barrels and then a further year in bottle. As Mouchão's entry level red, I think this elegant wine is stunning value! It has lovely velvety texture, herbal and spicy notes, structure and acidity. Really a steal at 8.99€ and will clearly age well over the next few years.

2012 Ponte de Canas – Alicante Bouschet (40%), Touriga Nacional,Touriga Franca, Syrah 16€
Unlike the other Mouchão wines this has a small percentage of Syrah that gives this wine additional freshness and edge. The 2012 already has attractive texture and powerful fruit but ideally it needs several more years in bottle to show its best.

Over lunch we had an interesting discussion with David over Ponte de Canas  as he indicated that the current name used on the label may not make it sufficiently clear that Ponte de Canas was actually a wine from Mouchã0.

We suggested that Mouchão ought to be part of the Ponte Canas name and suggested Ponte Canas de Mouchão or Ponte de Mouchão citing that. for instance, Château Latour uses Les Forts de Latour. Clearly the name is under discussion, so we may see a change in the future.

2011 Mouchão – 85% Alicante Bouschet, 15% Trincadeira 35€
We were privileged to be the first to taste the 2011 grand vin, which will be released soon.  Naturally this deep coloured wine is still very young and tight in the finish but it has a lovely warm spicy aromas and an opulent texture.

2011 Vinho Licoroso – 100% Alicante Bouschet 19€
This is Mouchão's version of Port – made in the same way using grape spirit distilled at the winery to stop the fermentation and fortify the wine. Very concentrated with long rich cherry and prune fruit.

The still 

•••

A Taberna do Paulo
Rua 1 de Maio, 28 | Santo Antonio de Alcorrego

After the tasting we all drove to nearby small town of Santo Antonio de Alcorrego to the brightly decorated A Taberna do Paulo where we had a very enjoyable lunch featuring three different types of migas – plain, with tomato, and with coriander – accompanied by small lamb chops.

Our visit to Mouchão reminded me of Tondonia in Haro (Rioja). It has the same sense of calm and great respect for tradition.

Ferreira summed up – "We say Mouchão is Mouchão!"

An update: 29th July 2016
Following our visit we found a bottle of 2007 Ponte de Canas Mouchão in a local restaurant on the edge of Campo d'Ourique for 29€. The staff had a little trouble finding it but it proved to be worth the hunt as it was delicious – good concentration, spice and with good acidity to balance. Ready to drink now but clearly has a number of years ahead.    

 

Jim Budd

Eating in Porto: Rui Paula's DOP or O Paparico?

Porto 

One immediate conclusion after three nights in Porto - you can eat very well here.

On our first night we went to the very traditional Casa Aleixo near to the Campanha railway station. Crowded, popular restaurant need to book to avoid long queues said the guide books, so it was somewhat of a shock to arrive at an empty restaurant. True the road outside is currently closed to traffic, while major works is done to the sewage pipes. We ate quite well with some delicious presunto to start. Carole had the speciality merluza (hake) with sqVisits to Port Houses, Portuguese gastronomy, uid rice - tasty but a little dry, while I went for the roast veal, potatoes and greens. This was a good match for our bottle of Julia Kemper 2011 Dão. But it was sad to be in a restaurant which, over the evening, only had eight customers. Apparently the road works have been going on for two months - the owners must be hoping that business will pick up once it finishes. Warning Casa Aleixo does not take cards.

Rui Paula: DOP

In complete contrast we ate on Thursday and Friday evenings in two of Porto's best and most popular restaurants: firstly Rui Paula's DOP in the centre of the city housed in the Palacio das Artes, Largo de S.Domingo and then O Paparico in the Northern suburbs. Although perhaps it shouldn't be a contest, comparisons are inevitable. In the end it comes down to which restaurant would we go back to if we had to choose one?

In two respects they are similar and equal - the food in both is very good as are their extensive wine lists.

DOP is buzzy - a modern restaurant with hard edges making it noisy. We were seated close to a large group and, although they weren't loud, it was impossible not to be very aware of them and to hear their conversation. Initially the service was excellent including an impressive piece of decanting by the sommelier of our delicious and complex bottle of 2005 Mouchão (Alentejo) @43€. Our wine was at the perfect, cool temperature.

Unfortunately later in the evening the level of service fell off and I had to reach out for our wine and water housed on a separate table. Fortunately within my easy reach but far more difficult for a nearby couple tucked away in the corner. If a restaurant insists on exiling wine from its customers then they should ensure good service right the way through the meal. If not leave the bottle or the decanter on the table as I'm very happy to pour our own wine.

At DOP we started by sharing a carpaccio of bacalhau and a really delicious scrambled egg with  traditional Portuguese sausage. For main course Carole took the perfectly cooked turbot, while I had the equally fine roast cabrito with its crispy skin and moist inside accompanied by an excellent cabrito risotto. We missed desserts finishing with good expresso. It took a while to find someone to bring us the bill - 114 euros.

O Paparico was the strong recommendation of Gabriella Opaz. On the Rua Cabral and north of the ring road it was a good 15 minute taxi ride from the centre of town. From outside the restaurant gave the impression of being closed but on a sharp rap on the metal knocker the door was swiftly opened and we were immediately welcomed inside. "A drink in the bar first or straight to your table?" We opted to go straight to our table - cosily tucked into a corner at the far end of the restaurant.

This welcome set the tone for the evening - the service was brilliant - friendly, efficient but discreet. On Gabriella's insistence we introduced ourselves to Sergio, who runs the restaurant, but I'm sure this made no difference to the high quality of the service. It was clear from watching and admiring the staff serve the other customers.

The decor of O Paparico is homely and rustic with elements of a mythical rural past with stone walls and various accoutrements on the walls. The tables are a little more spaced than at DOP and coupled with the better sound proofing meant that we could talk normally and not hear our neighbours' conversations.

At O Paparico the first courses are already selected and await your arrival but you change any you don't want or order more if you are greedy! We had a very fine carpaccio of octopus, a superb terrine of calves liver in a Port wine sauce and a sheep's milk cheese plus some interesting bread and special biscuits with the terrine.

Having had a red from the Alentejo the night before we looked for a Douro red this time and went for the 2008 Vinhas Velhas (45€) from Quinta do Crasto (www.quintadocrasto.pt/). The sommelier tells it is their last bottle.  More powerful and butch than the Mouchão but less complex, it needed time in the decanter and glass to really open up. It was, however, a very good match with the veal.

The principle of the main courses is that they are for two people but you can opt to have two half portions to share and this is a good way get to try more dishes. We opted for tenderloin of pork with apple sauce first and followed this with veal in a mushroom sauce. Both dishes were very fine with the pork tenderloin beautifully tender and slightly pink. Although called veal in Portugal in the UK we would class this as beef as we experience veal as a white meat. Whatever it was rare and delicious!

We normally do without desserts, especially in Portugal where they are often oversweet. However, as the food was so good here we decided to break this habit. Carole chose the chocolate and I opted for a crème brulée. Made from bitter chocolate, the chocolate was a real standout dense and concentrated – just lovely!

Rich chocolate mousse  

A couple of coffees bought the bill to 134€ in line with DOP (even fractionally cheaper) as we only had two courses there and took a glass of the 2008 LBV from Noval with a chocolate mousse. And yes it was a good match!

I’d go back to O Paparico before DOP mainly because the service was much better – more attentive and professional.

For lunch on Friday we followed a recommendation from the Catavino site – the rooftop terrace of Porto Cruz (http://www.myportocruz.com) in Vila Nova da Gaia. It was ideal for a snack – a capaccio of bacalhau, scrambled egg with Portuguese sausage and some little green pimentos accompanied by a glass each of 2013 Alvarinho Muros Antigos. A peaceful oasis with great views. 

Table view from Porto Cruz