Four or five festive sparklers... and where to enjoy them

One English sparkler

Sugrue Pierre South Downs: The Trouble with Dreams
by Dermot Sugrue   

Unlike British politics which has been hitting the headlines for all the wrong reasons for best part of three years now, English or more precisely English and Welsh wines, have been garnering headlines for excellent reasons. We are now making some very good sparkling wines, which account for around two thirds of our production. The area under vine here is predicted to reach 3000 hectares by 2020. This is still small – similar in size to Sancerre (2987 in 2017) but given that vine growing only restarted here in 1952 this is a fair change. Plantings have tripled since 2004. Of course all this pales into insignificance if you consider how much the Chinese have planted over the past decade or even, on a lesser scale, the way wine production in New Zealand has increased and changed since the 1970s.

Wine has been made here since the Roman times but following the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII in 1536 vineyards in the UK gradually declined until they disappeared altogether just before the First World War. It wasn't until 1952 that vines were replanted for commercial production and there was a gradual revival during the rest of the 20th Century. 

Irish wine-maker Dermot Sugrue has been an important influence on English wine, in particular sparkling. His precise and thrilling Sugrue Pierre South Downs: The Trouble with Dreams (Chardonnay 60% Pinot Noir 40%) can be best enjoyed at The Harrow in Little Bedwyn – a brilliant Michelin starred restaurant.

Just out a quick monograph - 70 pages – to English wine
Copies from International Wine & Food Society

•••

Four Loire favourites: 

Pure Chenin Blanc from Château de L'Aulée, Azay-le-Rideau. No added sugar and 24 months minimum on the lees. Brilliant value, which makes it our house fizz.

Also pure Chenin Blanc with no sugar added at any stage hence the name – Triple Zéro, which has been a great success for Jacky Blot. Triple Zéro can be best enjoyed at Jacky's Le Bistrot des Belles Caves (Tours).

A Saumur fizz – Chenin Chardonnay – from Bouvet Ladubay – zero dosage. Zéro can be best enjoyed at La Route du Sel (Le Thoureil).

Lamé's delicate Crémant de Loire is a blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon with 24 months sur latte. This Crémant can be best enjoyed at Vincent le Cuisiner de Campagne  (Ingrandes-de-Touraine).

 

A Giant e-bike – recommended to assist in fighting off the extra calories and weight over the Christmas period. 

(This post was first published on Les 5 du Vin. This is one of a week-long series on festive sparkling wines.) 

Off on an adventure: Day 22 – Patrice and Juliette Monmousseau + Ogmius

 Patrice Monmousseau, Bouvet-Ladubay

Saumur

Juliette Monmousseau

Ogmius 

Ogmius

'As homage to Etienne Bouvet, who founded the winery in 1851, a special cuvée was created with finest blend of Chenin and Chardonnay 2007 Vintage.

In April 2008, precisely 100 years after his passing away, 3 852 magnums were tapped and kept in the cellars until 2010. This cuvée reveals now its excellence and reverence to Etienne Bouvet. "Ogmius is indeed the greatest homage we could possibly pay to the man" Patrice Monmousseau confesses.' 

As I suspect there will be limited time to post on Jim's Loire while we are away – there are posts prepared in advance that will feature pics of Loire producers and may be from elsewhere plus some recently enjoyed bottles.   

The Real Wine Fair and other treats this week

the Real Wine Fair: 17th and 18th April, Tobacco Dock

Now back from my Scottish sojourn, which included the memorable beach wedding on Colonsay, I'm now back in London and looking forward to a busy week of tastings.

The Real Wine Fair opens tomorrow with its public day. This year I am unable to make the Sunday but look forward to Monday but first a quick visit to the Thorman Hunt tasting in the city as they have a good list of Loire producers including Yannick Amirault and Château de Villeneuve. 

Tuesday sees the launch of a book on the wines of India as well as J&B's tasting, who again have some interesting wines on their list – including Lucien Crochet, Vincent Pinard and Jacky Blot. 

Thursday will be a day of fizz – a tasting of Bairrada (Portugal) sparkling wines made from grape variety – Baga – followed by Crémants from the Loire. 

There are several Crémant Loire producers showing at the event: Bouvet-Ladubay, Langlois-Chateau, Veuve-Amiot, La Guillaumerie and Domäne Vincendeau.    

The week closes with the Big Fortified Tasting, which is a highlight as the tasting year. I suspect as usual I will tend to major on the Sherries but I should also take a look at some Madeira.     

Liv Vincendeau

A young Crémant producer showing 

her wines in London this week.

   

Bouvet-Ladubay back with Monmousseau family after 41 years

 President Patrice Monmousseau
Conducteur en chef !


Juliette Monmousseau – CEO

 

Indian-based United Spirits, controlled by Diageo, recently put its non-core businesses, including Bouvet Ladubay, up for sale. In early November the sale was announced though the purchaser was not revealed at the time. On 18^th November a management buyout deal was finalised to put the Monmousseau family are now back in control of Bouvet-Ladubay 41-years after it was bought by Taittinger. 

 

Under the deal the family hold 100% of the shares. In order to finance the purchase, the Monmousseau family created an acquisition holding in conjunction with three private equity firms - Ouest Croissance, regional investor and leader of the operation; CM CIC Investments; and Unigrains – together with a consortium of banking institutions headed by Banque Populaire Atlantique, and including the Banque CIC Ouest, the Banque Européenne du Credit Mutuel, and the Banque Caisse d'Epargne Bretagne Pays de la Loire. With a majority of partners based in the Loire region, this deal marks the return to regional based financing for the company

Bouvet-Ladubay has changed hands a number of times since it was founded in 1851 by Etienne Bouvet and his wife – Célestine Ladubay. In 1932 it was bought by Justin-Marcel Monmousseau, Patrice's grandfather. In 1974 Taittinger bought Bouvet along the Monmousseau sparkling wine business in Montrichard in Touraine. In 2006 Taittinger sold to Indian-based United Breweries/United Spirits. This allowed Bouvet to launch in the Indian market. 

However, United Breweries, owner of Kingfisher beer, ran into problems with their Kingfisher Airline. During 2013 Diageo became the largest shareholder in United Spirits.   

The Monmousseau family, however, continued to run the company. Patrice has been the in charge since taking over from his father, Jean, in 1972. The dynamic, ebullient, trumpet-playing Patrice Monmousseau will remain president and Juliette, his daughter, continues as CEO.

Bouvet-Ladubay is based in Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent, a western suburb of Saumur. In 2008 they have invested in a new vinification and cellaring facility at nearby Distré called Bouvet Full Metal .

Cuvée Trésor, white and rosé, are Bouvet's top sparkling wines. The company has long been a patron of the arts. Since 1996 they have hosted the Journées du Livres et du Vin, celebrating literature and wine.

In 1994 Monmousseau (Montrichard) was sold by Taittinger to the Bernard-Massard, who in turn sold the company to pan-Loire company Ackerman in 2010.    

 

 In Bouvet's historic cellars

 

The Monmousseaus love to hold 

elaborate parties for their distributors 

Benoît Lemercier@Centre d'art Bouvet-Ladubay

Starting tomorrow there is an exhibition of the works of Benoît Lemercier at the Centre d'art Bouvet-Ladubay. It will run through to the 27th October.  

Centre d'art Bouvet-Ladubay 

Saint Hilaire - Saint Florent 

49 400 SAUMUR 

Tel: 02 41 83 83 83 

Spectacular evening@Bouvet-Ladubay

Dinner last night@Bouvet Ladubay with a spectacular performance from the Compagnie Mesdemoiselles.

This weekend – busy Sunday@Bourgueil and Saumur

3rd Salon des Vins d'Ici

'Ce dimanche 13 mai, de nombreux événements auront lieu à Bourgueil et à Saumur

- A 9 h 30, à la Maison Jean-Carmet des Vins de Bourgueil, le convivum Slow Food Tours-Val de Loire organise une conférence du Pr Jean-Pierre Corbeau sur «L’alimentation des français »

- A 10 h et à 18 h 00, à la Maison Jean-Carmet des Vins de Bourgueil, deux projections gratuites du film "La Clef des Terroirs", documentaire long métrage de Guillaume Bodin consacré à la biodynamie.

- De 10 h à 17 h 30, dans le Parc de la Mairie de Bourgueil, Bourgueil fête la nature du champ à l'assiette et au verre :

Marché de produits bio ou locaux, animations familiales, stands,Mini ferme et spectacles : "La ferme de Tiligolo", Expositions sur la réglisse, le lombricomposteur et de lithographies, Bourse d'échanges de plants ouverte à tous...

Conférence à 14h30 : "les plantes et les fleurs comestibles", avec Noémie Vialard, journaliste et auteur d'ouvrages spécialisés dans le jardinage et la cuisine.

Théâtre à 16h30 : "Dialogue avec mon jardinier" avec la compagnie l'Echappée Belle.

- De 10 h à 18 h, 3ème Salon des Vins d'Ici, à la Cave Touristique du Pays de Bourgueil

Details of the producers present here.

- Comme tous les week-end d'avril à septembre Caves ouvertes chez plusieurs vignerons de Bourgueil :

Clos de l'abbaye à Bourgueil

Domaine de la Noiraie à Benais

Plus d'informations sur http://www.bourgueil2012.fr

2011 prize presentation@Journées Nationales du Livre et Vin 

Dans le même temps, les vignerons de Bourgueil seront présents à Saumur, chez Bouvet-Ladubay, à l'occasion des Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin. A 12 h 00, ils remettront le "Prix Jean-Carmet des Vignerons de Bourgueil", récompensant un ouvrage consacré au vin.

Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin: 17th edition 13th May

dimanche 13 mai 2012, Saumur
17ème EDITION DES JOURNEES DU LIVRE ET DU VIN

Dédiées à l’acteur Jean Carmet qui a permis d’en initier l’idée, les Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin, créées en 1996, se situent à la croisée de deux éléments fondamentaux du patrimoine français : sa Littérature et son Vin, associés au sein d’une manifestation d’ampleur nationale.

L’événement 2012 se déroulera sous le signe de l’ivresse de la liberté.

NOUVEAUTES 2012
- Exposition « Jean-Claude Brialy, 15 ans de Livre et de Vin »
- Exposition "Dolgans, les derniers nomades des glaces"
- Création du Prix Hervé Bazin

MAIS TOUJOURS :

La remise des 7 Prix littéraires

La rencontre des auteurs avec le public (environ 130 auteurs présents)

Les dégustations publiques des Vins Prix d’Excellence de la Loire et des Vins de Bourgueil chers à Jean Carmet

Les cafés littéraires et tables rondes

...tout ceci en présence de la célèbre fanfare du Livre et du Vin!!

Authors and their readers@the 2011 edition 

Diary dates: Epeigné-les-Bois et Saumur

Secret de Papillon: 24th March, Salles des Fêtes, Epeigné-les-Bois, 5pm

Organised through the village library and for children of 6 years old and above 

 

22nd April: bring and buy, bring and exchange garden plants etc: Epeigné-les-Bois

Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin: 2011 prizegiving

The 2012 edition of the Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin will be held on Sunday 13th May at the cellars of Bouvet-Ladubay in Saint-Hilaire Saint-Florent, just to the west of Saumur.

16th edition of Le Livre et Le Vin@Bouvet Ladubay Sunday 1st May

As well as books, there will be wine producers – medal winners from the Salon des Vins de Loire plus some from Bourgueil, the birthplace of actor Jean Carmet who initiated this annual Livres et Vins.  

More details from: http://www.livreetvin.com/

Saturday 30th April - Sunday 1st May: 2011 Les Journées Nationales du Livre et du vin

 Château de Saumur, the town and La Loire

SAUMUR - Dédiées à l’acteur Jean Carmet, ces journées se situent à la croisée des deux grandes activités qui font la renommée de la France : sa littérature et son vin.

Au programme

Les Journées Nationales du Livre et du vin, créées en 1996, réunissent des écrivains, des grands vins de Loire, la gastronomie et la presse nationale, et des personnalités de tous horizons représentatives de l'art de vivre à la française.

Les éditeurs, les vignerons de renom, des représentants du monde littéraire et viticole (écrivains, critiques, œnologues, sommeliers, etc.) et des personnalités du monde du spectacle, se réuniront le 1er mai au cœur de la ville de Saumur pour le 16ème anniversaire des Journées Nationales du Livre et du Vin.

Déjeuner gastronomique, rencontres des écrivains avec le public, remise des prix littéraires, tables rondes, cafés littéraires, lectures, initiation aux arts du vin émailleront comme chaque année la manifestation.

Informations pratiques

Samedi 30 avril de 16h à 18h.
Dimanche 1er mai de 11h à 18h30.
Caves Bouvet-Ladubay à Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent - Saumur.

30 avril : grande table ronde sur l’ivresse fantastique

1er mai : Salon du Livre et du Vin
Thème : l’ivresse «fantastique*» et clin d’œil à la Hongrie
(*l'univers du «merveilleux», du «voyage», de la «science fiction», du «paranormal», de «l’étrange», de la «peur», du «surnaturel» et de «l’imaginaire»)

- 130 auteurs
- une vingtaine de vignerons, Ligers d’or 2010
- séances de signatures, tables rondes, cafés littéraires, entretiens
- dégustations et initiations aux arts du vin
- dégustations de produits du terroir, dégustations de vins hongrois
- animations musicales et artistiques

Renseignements : 

Les organisateurs:
Patrice Monmousseau, Jean-Maurice  Belayche et Jean-Yves Clément

JOURNÉES NATIONALES DU LIVRE ET DU VIN

B.P. 65
Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent
49426 SAUMUR CEDEX
Tél. 02 41 83 83 90
Fax. 02 41 50 33 55
Site internet

 

Image projection@Bouvet-Ladubay 

Soirée@Bouvet-Ladubay and the mystery executive unveiled

 Photo display projected onto wall of the entrance 

Taille Princesse white and rosé on ice

Last Monday I was at a special soirée organised by Bouvet-Ladubay at their premises in Saint-Florent Saint Hilaire, which is just to the west of Saumur and the historical centre of sparkling wine production in Saumur. The evening starting with a glass or two of Taille Princess, white and rosé. This sparkling wine was created by actor Gérard Depardieu, who owns Château de Tigné in the Layon, and Patrice Monmousseau, the president directeur-general of Bouvet and this week's mystery man.

We then moved through the cellars where we were entertained by a series of trapeze, tight rope etc. performers before moving onto dinner. During dinner we were joined by the band that had played earlier on in the evening. Patrice 'Miles' Monmousseau was breifly content with conducting using a knife before grabbing a trumpet and joining in.

Other members of the band:

Blow hard!

Serious business this music!