Pierre Couly: RIP

Pierre Couly at the Salon des Vins de Loire 2014

Very sad news Pierre Couly, a leading figure in Chinon and its wine has died at the age of 83. Pierre died suddenly overnight. Details here  https://www.lanouvellerepublique.fr/c…/pierre-couly-est-mort and an obituary here. With his younger brother Jacques, who died in March 2016, Pierre ran Couly-Dutheil for many years until the bitter family schism, which led Pierre and his son Bertrand to set up their own domaine – Pierre et Bertrand Couly. 

Although both Couly-Dutheil and Domaine Pierre et Bertrand Couly made good wine, it was very sad to see such a bitter family fall-out. 

Pierre was a gentleman, was always friendly and welcoming. He will be greatly missed through the Loire as the reaction to posts on Facebook have already showm 

Our thoughts and condolences are with his family and friends. #Loire.

Pierre Couly flanked by son Bertrand and Bertand's wife  

Jim

Vignobles et Signatures venture to London (part one)

For the first time since the Vignobles et Signatures group of French producers were founded in 1984, representatives from 15 members of their 17 members came to London to show off their wines. In the case of Roger Groult it was their cider and Calvados and for Famille Lesgourgues an Armagnac.

I don't know whether V&S decided that October 2018 was their last easy chance to display their wares before the utter lunacy of Brexit kicks in at the end of March 2019 leading to who knows what sorts of complications – visas, travel delays etc. – to make the short journey across the Channel/La Manche. Two of the club's members were absent – Domaine Rolet (Jura) and Vignobles Joseph Janoueix (Saint-Emilion, Pomerol). I can only assume that they decided that it made no sense to visit a small island off the coast of mainland Europe in the middle of a full blown nervous breakdown and wilfully committing economic and political suicide. Who, furthermore, from 29th March 2019 will not be able to afford to buy their wines. All in all a rather understandable and hard-headed decision.

Whatever it was a very good tasting with the 15 who ventured into the lunatic asylum as each producer was sensibly limited to showing four wines/cider or spirit.. This meant I was able to taste the majority of the wines although I didn't have time to taste everyone.

All the wines shown were of a high standard – I didn't taste one poor wine.

Vignobles & Signatures have three Loire domaines – Château de Tracy (Pouilly-Fumé), Guilbaud Frères (Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine) and Couly-Dutheil (Chinon).

Château de Tracy

I started with Château de Tracy (Pouilly-Fumé). It was good to meet Juliette d'Estutt d'Assay, who took over a couple of years ago from her brother Comte Henry d'Assay, who ran the estate for many years but in 2016 founded his own négociant business – Comte Henry d'Assay  – which concentrates on Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire and the Côtes de Gascogne.

Juliette showed three wines – the 2017 domaine, 2015 Haute Densité (a small plot planted with 17,000 vines per hectare) and 101 Rangs also a 2015 from a plot on flint near the château. Of the three I found Haute Densité, which is matured in a 30 hl  foudre, the most impressive with its concentration, length and clear potential to age.

 

Pascal Guilbaud 

I first met Pascal Guilbaud (Guilbaud Frères) in February 1989 during my first professional visit to the Pays Nantais and my first trip for a Decanter article. Those were the days when the sales of Muscadet in the UK were buoyant and there was an annual article in Decanter. Pascal wasn't in London instead it was good to meet his daughter Romane and her partner Maxime Fernandez. Romane started working at the family firm in October 2017.

From their four wines I picked out the characterful 2017 Soleil Nantais and the complex 2009 Clos du Pont, which is made in a long ageing (more than two years) Muscadet Cru Communal style. Guilbaud Frères first made this cuvée in 1983. Romane told me that although they are in the commune of Gorges, Pascal isn't part of the Gorges Cru Communal as it was they who started off the movement with this cuvée. As an outsider staying outside the Crus Communaux movement, which is raising Muscadet's profile seems a pity, especially if you were a precursor.

 

Approach to the Couly Dutheil cellars
in the centre of Chinon 

Due to finishing the fine 2018 harvest Arnaud Couly stayed behind in Chinon. They showed two whites from 2017 – Blanc de Franc (Vin de France) from 100% Cabernet Franc and Les Chanteaux (Chinon Blanc) from 100% Chenin Blanc. It is rare for Cabernet Franc to be vinified as a still white, although this is a frequent practice for Loire sparkling wines. It works well with the 2017 Blanc de Franc having good concentration and attractive texture. Of the two reds the Clos de l'Echo naturally stood out with its ripe concentration of black fruits. Although it can be drunk now this really needs more time in bottle to reveal its full potential.

My post next week will cover the producers from outside the Loire.

    

Christophe Surget (Couly-Dutheil) – very sad news

I was very shocked and sad to learn yesterday of the sudden death of Christophe Surget, who looked after the commercial and export side of Couly-Dutheil (Chinon).  Christophe was just 50 years old.

My thoughts and sincere condolences to his family and friends. 

The funeral is tomorrow (Friday May 18^th)  at 11am at St Symphorien Church located in Couëron.

2015 Clos de l'Echo, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil

2015 Clos de l'Echo, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil 

Just across from and to the west of the medieval fortress of the Château de Chinon, the Clos de l'Echo is one of the most famous and long-established single vineyards in the Loire. This is 100% Cabernet Franc. Echo was once owned by François Rabelais' family. In 1952 it was bought by René and Madelaine Couly.

The 2015 Clos de l'Echo has impressively ripe concentrated black fruits. Almost pure fruit, its concentration currently hides the wine's structure. This is an example of how forward even the top 2015 Loire reds are.     

2015 Clos de l'Olive, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil

The Clos de l'Olive is one of Couly-Dutheil's top single vineyard sites. The 2015, although still young, is impressive with good concentration of fragrant Cabernet Franc, an attractively opulent texture and well integrated tannins. As I have already remarked the tannins in the Couly Dutheil range are much better handled than they were around a decade or more ago when many had a dry tannic finish. 

The 2015 Clos de l'Olive certainly can be enjoyed now but also has the potential to age for a couple of decades or more, though I suspect many corks will have been pulled before then ...  

Encore Couly-Dutheil – 2015 Baronnie Madeleine

2015 Baronnie Madeleine, Chinon from Couly-Dutheil 

Couly-Dutheil only release the Baronnie Madeleine cuvée in good vintages. 2015 is certainly on of them. Baronnie Madeleine comes from selected parcels on the clay limestone slopes or the plateau above these slopes. The 2015 has attractive concentration and plenty of soft black fruit. Very enjoyable to drink now it lacks, for the moment (?), an extra dimension. On the other hand it is noticeable that the tannin management is greatly improved over the last decade. Gone are the dry, harsh tannins that marred their wines in the first decade following the millennium.  

2015 Domaine René Couly, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil

Domaine René Couly is another fine 2015 red from Couly-Dutheil. These vines are planted on clay and flint and from parcels selected by René Couly, the grandfather of the company's current MD – Arnaud Couly.

The deep coloured 2015 Domaine René Couly is considerably more concentrated than Wednesday's featured wine – 2015 Les Gravières. Although drinking well now, the René Couly has considerably potential to improve and age over several decades.     

2015 Les Gravières, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil

2015 Les Gravières, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil

This cuvée (100% Cabernet Franc) comes from vineyards planted on sand and gravel close to the River Vienne. Full of soft, black fruit it underlines what an attractive vintage 2015 is. Les Gravières sees no wood and is bottled at Easter time with the accent on its youthful fruit.  

A dispatch from the lunatic asylum.....I'd rather be @Le Salon des Vin de Loire

But for a slip on black ice on 2nd January I would be at the Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers. Unfortunately when I fell my left leg went underneath me and ruptured my quads from my knee cap. This necessitated having on operation on 4th January to reattach the tendons. (See ambulance and knee photos below). 

Fortunately my recovery seems to be going well. I can now go out for long walks relying on just one crutch rather than the two I started out with after the operation. Despite this progress it is still impossible for me to travel, so very sadly no Millésime Bio and no Salon des Vins de Loire this year. 

However, I gather from Chris Kissack, the estimable Wine Doctor, that the catering in Press Office has gone down very sharply in my absence. In the past the Press were offered a very considerable spread for lunch. Clearly austerity has arrived in Angers! Chris reports that the Salon, which for the first time runs for only two days, was busy on Monday and that La Levée de la Loire has expanded considerably. Doubtless this is a reflection of the continued growth of organic viticulture in the Loire. 

But to return to the lunatic asylum – the lamentable state to which the madness of Brexit has reduced in the UK. The latest piece of lunacy is Teresa May ruling out staying in the Customs Union after we leave (if we leave) the EU at the end of March 2019. How May and her government are going to square this with the agreement at the end of Phase One that there would be no hard borders between Northern and Southern Ireland? 

May parrots the aim of achieving 'frictionless' trade ignoring the fact that the Customs Union provides frictionless trade. So why attempt to create a new system, which the EU may well not accept anyway? It is amazing that 18 months after the referendum vote on 23rd June 2016 the UK government has still not agreed on what they are seeking as a trading arrangement following Brexit. 

At least being in Scotland I'm in the antechamber of the lunatic asylum and there have been some compensations being in Scotland. As already posted we ordered a selection of wines from The Wine Society – a selection of whites from South West France, a selection of reds from Spain and some Sherries. 

In addition Château de Tracy and Couly-Dutheil have kindly sent me a selection of samples, so that I can continue to work during my convalescence.        

    

 

5.2.18: the scar healing up 

Henri Bourgeois (Chavignol) – one aspect of their success

Jean-Christophe and Arnaud Bourgeois 

19th September 2017 – during the harvest

One of the big characteristics of wine production in the Loire is the continuing importance of the family. Many of the domaines are family owned and run. For me this is one of the charms and attractions of the wines from the Loire Valley.

Obviously when families work well together they can find great success. Equally when things go wrong, as almost inevitably they do within some families from time to time, the splits and consequences can be particularly bitter and rancorous. 

Cousins Jean-Christophe and Arnaud Bourgeois feature in the photo above. I have the strong sense of a team of team working well together. In September I saw Jean-Christophe at the highest level of their winery in Chavignol where grapes are unloaded, sorted and pressed. He rapidly arranged for Arnaud, when he was free, to come and let me taste the 2017 juices. 

Arnaud, the youngest son of patriarch – Jean-Marie Bourgeois – is increasingly the public face of Henri Bourgeois, while Jean-Christophe is in charge of wine-making. Lionel, Arnaud's elder brother, is in charge of the vineyards and has a much less of a public profile than Arnaud. 

Henri Bourgeois based in Chavignol, part of the commune of   

If there are any tensions with the Bourgeois family operation I have never been aware of them over the many years I have been visiting – I first met Jean-Marie Bourgeois in late October 1989. 

I am sure that the ability of the Bourgeois family to work together on complementary roles and tasks has been a major contributory factor in their enormous success. 

In contrast one only has to look at the very sad and acrimonious split within the Couly family at Couly Dutheil (Chinon) between the late Jacques Couly and his son Arnaud and Pierre Couly, Jacques elder brother, and his son Bertrand – now Pierre and Bertrand Couly.  

Jean-Marie Bourgeois 

in a vineyard above Chavignol late October 2014

 

 

 

Charles Sydney Wines: photos from today's tasting

 Chris Hardy, one of the directors of Charles Sydney Wines Ltd

 Chris Hardy surprised to receive 

the company credit card from Philippa Sydney

 Christophe Surget, Couly-Dutheil, Chinon

 Arnaud Couly, Couly-Dutheil, Chinon

(above and below)

 François Lieubeau, Famille Lieubeau

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 

 Vincent Lieubeau, Famille Lieubeau

 Jérôme Choblet, Domaine des Herbauges

Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu 

Alphone Mellot jnr, Alphonse Mellot

 Sancerre

(above and below)

Rebekah representing Vignobles Mourat

Comments on the wines to come in separate post.

2016 Loire: Emmanuel Ogereau gives an update on their Anjou harvest

Emmanuel Ogereau

Emmanuel Ogereau (Domaine Ogereau, Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay): "We have picked the Chenin for our Anjou Sec. The quality is very good but yields are very low. We lost 50% through the April frosts in our Chenin blocks. Furthermore, in the grapes that we do have, there is very little juice due to the prolonged drought since early July. Maybe we are getting 20 hl/ha. But the juice is very well balanced and precise. 

"We will be doing the Premier Tri for our Coteaux de Layon tomorrow. We have some botrytis with potential degrees at 17/18%.

"Overall we expect our global yield to be between 10-15hl/ha. 

"We have much better news of our friends, the Sérols in the Côte Roannaise, who report an exceptional vintage having escaped the frost. The same applies to the Domaine Bérioles in Saint-Pourçain."

** 

A snippet:

Couly-Dutheil (Chinon) started picking on Monday 10th October. Arnaud Couly estimates that their harvest will be 55% down due to the complicated conditions of the 2016 growing season. 

   

A few recently enjoyed Loires – Forez, Savennières, Chinon, Vouvray

2010 Savennières, Domaine du Petit Métris, 

Joseph Renou et Fils  

Lovely richly textured Savennières from Joseph Renou et Fils, a 30-hectare domaine based in Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné. 2010 is a wonderfully well balanced vintage. From Byrnes of Clitheroe £12.99. 

  

2011 Baronnie Madeleine, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil 

Rich and powerful – 14.5% 

no alcohol burn but plenty of concentration 

but a little OTT? 

From one of Chinon largest and leading producers  

Byrnes of Clitheroe £11.59

2013 Les Grives Soûles, Vouvray, Domaine Perrault-Jadaud 

Very precise, crisp, quite austere still young Vouvray Sec from very promising young estate – Domaine Perrault-Jadaud. Here is a previous post on Jim's Loire on the domaine.

2015 La Volcanique, Côtes du Forez, Cave Verdier - Logel

Juicy and very attractive young 2015 Gamay from Odile Verdier and Jacky Logel (Cave Verdier-Logel) in the Côtes de Forez – the appellation just to the north of Saint-Etienne and the most southernly of the Loire. Cave Verdier-Logel is a now long established – since 1992 when almost all the production came from the Cave Co-opérative. Odile and Jacky were pioneers. 

I enjoyed this at the RSJ Restaurant with Tom King when Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie, Chinon) was over in London.     

Jacques Couly – au revoir Jacques !

 Jacques Couly 

Very shocked and sorry to hear this evening of the death of Jacques Couly, the PDG of Couly-Dutheil – one of Chinon's largest producers – during the night of Friday/Saturday morning. He was 74. Jacques was not only a major figure in Chinon but also in Loire wine. 

 

It was very sad that his later years saw a bitter split with his elder brother Pierre Couly. 

I will long remember Jacques for his enthusiasm, his kindness and his engaging smile. 

Our thoughts and condolences to Françoise (his wife), Arnaud, Jacques' son, Marie-Madeleine, Arnaud's wife and the rest of the family and the team at Couly-Dutheil. 

 

The funeral will be held on Friday April 01^st  at 2.30 pm in St Etienne Church, Chinon. In accordance with Jacques's wishes a glass of friendship will be offered after the ceremony at the Couly Dutheil winery ( 12 Rue Diderot – Chinon).

 

 

#2015Loire – Chinon's biggest players prefer to wait

 Bunches of Cabernet Franc near Panzoult (AC Chinon)

Chinon's two biggest players – Baudry-Dutour and Couly-Dutheil – are in no rush to harvest their reds. At Baudry-Dutour their IGT Sauvignon from 11 hectares at Ligré is picked as is some of the Chenin Blanc for the Chinon Blanc and sparkling while Cabernet Franc for the rosé was picked on 21st September. 

"We are not yet ready for the reds," said Jean-Martin Dutour. "We will start on the classic reds from next Monday (4th October) but our top reds from Saint Louans and La Grille won't be started until around 12th October."  

"Yields are a bit higher than last year," Christophe Baudry explained, "probably around 45hl/ha compared to 40hl/ha last year but certainly not the maximum allowed.  

The situation at Couly-Dutheil is very similar. "We have picked some of the Chenin," said Jacques Couly but are waiting until next week to start on the reds and rosés. We expect full maturity around 10th-12th October with yields a little up on last year. 

Across the Vienne at Ligré Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie) is waiting for the reds to ripen. "We picked some of the Chenin – those grapes that were fragile and starting to rot – on 21st September and started on the rosé yesterday. 

In contrast Matthieu Baudry (Domaine Bernard Baudry, Cravant-les-Coteaux) is in full harvest mode and expects to finish this week. "We started picking Cabernet Franc on 23rd September, having picked the Chenin on 21st and 22nd. When we started the potential alcohol in the Cabernet Franc was 11.5 to 12 now it is between 12-13. We don't want the grape sugars to get too concentrated. It is important to keep the freshness of the Loire and this North East wind threatens to shrivel (flétri) the grapes.  

Interesting to see the contrast in picking dates both within Chinon and in comparison to vineyards – Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil north of the Loire.   

Jean-Martin Dutour (Baudry-Dutour) 

and President of the Chinon producers

Jacques Couly (Couly-Dutheil)

Arnaud Couly (Couly-Dutheil) 

Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie)

Loire 2013 – getting underway this week

Emptying a hod of Melon de Bourgogne 2012@Chereau Carré

The Loire vintage is beginning to get underway this week. Although it will still be some considerable time before the Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, except I assume for grapes destined for sparkling wine in Saumur, some of the early appellations are now getting underway. Picking in Muscadet started today as it did at J.Mourat in the Fiefs Vendéens with Jérémie Mourat harvesting Pinot Noir for their sparkling wine using their recently completed new chai.

This week may well see some in Quincy and Reuilly also starting on their Sauvignon Blanc. 

Reports from Guilbaud Frères and Couly-Dutheil:  

'Chez GUILBAUD Frères, été indien pour le Muscadet ?

  

Début des vendanges le 23 septembre. La température est clémente et nous débutons sous le même soleil radieux que l’année dernière !

Après un printemps pluvieux et maussade, nous nous sommes réjouis de ce mois de juillet si beau et exceptionnellement chaud ; le mois d'août a été également très beau mais avec des températures plus habituelles : 26, 27°.  Ouf, nous avons échappé aux violents orages, c’est la douceur du bord de Loire !

Si la météo de 2013 ne devrait pas affecter la qualité de notre vin, elle a déjà eu des conséquences sur l’importance de notre production. En effet, nous voyons bien déjà que côté quantité ce sera hétérogène.

Si ce mois de septembre continue à nous gratifier d'un été indien, la récolte devrait être aussi belle qualitativement qu'en 2012.

Pascal Guilbaud

GUILBAUD Frères

COULIS-DUTHEIL : un vignoble épargné…

On attaque les vendanges des cabernets francs destinés aux rosés – 25 septembre

Le millésime 2013 ?

Nous vendangeons dès le 25 septembre les cabernets francs destinés aux rosés… puis dans la première quinzaine d’octobre, les parcelles dédiées aux Chinon rouge

L’essentiel pour nous c’était d’avoir un très bel été, car août et septembre sont des mois décisifs. Nous avons été exaucés : le mois d’août a été magnifique et septembre se poursuit avec des températures douces et du soleil.

Nous sommes ravis.

Et pourtant en 2013 : que d’émotions…

- Fin avril - gel à Chinon : immédiatement Arnaud et Jérôme font le tour des parcelles et soulagement, elles ont été épargnées

- Lundi 17 juin - l’info est à la une des télévisions : les violents orages ont traversé une partie de la France, la grêle a frappé, le vignoble de Vouvray est ravagé, à Chinon des dégâts importants sur la commune de Cravant les Coteaux. Une fois de plus Arnaud et Jérôme arpentent les vignes et notre bonne étoile nous a une fois de plus épargnés

- floraison vers le 20 juin, très beau mois de juillet,  les grappes sont bien formées homogènes…. quant aux mollets de nos vignerons : du solide.

Jacques & Arnaud Couly Dutheil

COULY-DUTHEIL

Some summer views of Chinon

Canoes on the Vienne in front of the château 

Chinon's château and gateway

Sunshine over the château

Fishy view from château over the town

 Clos de l'Echo, Couly-Dutheil and the château

Clos de l'Echo from the château