Off to the Salons + some recent bottles

 

 

On Saturday I'm off to Montpellier for Millésime Bio and its associated events. I shall look forward to meeting up with Marco and Marie Louise (Les 5 du Vin) and probably Michel Smith, our distinguished retired founder member. This will be the start of a busy ten days for me as once the three days (27th-29th) of MillyBio are over I'm off up to the Loire for the Salon des Vins de Loire/La Levée and and the Renaissance tasting.

It is a testament to the growth in the number of organic and biodynamic producers that Millésime Bio has become a monster. The 2020 is the 27th edition of the fair that started with I believe some 40 producers from the south of France in 1993. There will be well over 1300 exhibitors from 20 different countries at this edition, which is an increase of 15% on last year. It will be nearly double the 700 exhibitors that were at the 2017 edition.

This edition will be spread across five enormous halls at Montpellier's Parc des Expositions. The photos above give a flavour of the size of MillyBio. Egalité continues with all the simple tables being the same size. No possibility of bling stands here aka Vinexpo etc.  However, unfortunately the organisers are continuing with their policy of mixing all the exhibitors up. The policy has always been to mix up the exhibitors, so encourage visitors to make fresh discoveries. This doubtless made perfect sense when Millésime Bio was still small but now with 1300 exhibitors it is surely boneheaded.

This means, for example, that the 85 Loire producers are scattered across the five halls. It must be best part of a kilometre from one end of the fair to the other. Great for easily getting in your 10,000 daily fitbit steps but otherwise a complete waste of time. Little wonder that the smaller Salons-Off like Biotop, Les Affranchis and Le Vin de Mes Amis are popular.

•••

A few recent bottles 

2018 Froggy Wine, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie,
Domaine Luneau-Papin 

This is a fun, easy drinking Muscadet from the renowned Domaine Luneau-Papin, which is intended to be drunk young with friends and some shellfish. This 2018 has the print of 2018 with weight and rich ripe fruit. The style of the wine is captured by the label.

 

2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, Domaine de la Combe,
Pierre-Henri Gadais 

This is an ambitious and fine Muscadet from Pierre-Henri Gadais, who has taken over the wine making for the family domaine in Saint-Fiacre but is also making wine from his own vines. It also has the ripeness of 2018 with attractive texture along with good balancing acidity. It can certainly be enjoyed now but has the potential to last and develop over a number of years. I am not convinced, however, that the label really does the quality of this wine justice.

2001 Château Petit Village, Pomerol

Pomerol has been somewhat controversial on Les 5 du Vin recently so I thought it was time I tasted and drank a bottle from this appellation. This 2001 has been sitting under our bed in an AXA six-bottle presentation box for a number years. This 2001 was delicious - fully ready to drink with luxuriously evolved soft fruit with an inviting spicy aroma, well balanced with a long finish. It was a good partner for poached ham.

A few days prior to pulling the cork on the Petit Village we had also tried the 2001 Margaux Cantenac Brown that unlike the Petit Village was not at all memorable merely dull – perhaps it was the bottle? It wasn't obviously corked but .....

2018er Pinot Noir Blanc de Noir Edition trocken, Kabinett

Brought by some friends to us to try this is an intriguing white Pinot Noir from Baden. Although it has a little residual sugar (6 gms per litre) it has good balancing acidity so it has attractive citric mouthfeel without being in any way cloying. Good as an apéro it would probably partner grilled fish or scallops well.

Pomerol annulation by the Conseil d'Etat - pertinent for Jacky Blot and François Chidaine?

François Chidaine and Jacky Blot 
with their 'Vin de France Vouvrays'

It is very interesting to see the Conseil d'Etat's decision to annul the obligation in the Pomerol appellation décret to only allow producers to vinify and mature Pomerol wines within the demarcated zone of the Pomerol appellation. The Conseil decided that Pomerol had not justified excluding those Pomerol producers who have vines within the appellation but vinify in a neighbouring commune. The Conseil ruled that it was wrong to disadvantage producers who do not have winemaking facilities within the small appellation of Pomerol.

The ruling by the Conseil d'Etat: 
Taken from the site (Chroniques Vineuses) of Hervé Lalau, one of members of our cooperative blog – Les 5 du Vin. 

Pour le Conseil, "le cahier des charges de l'AOC " Pomerol ", qui ne comporte aucun élément de nature à justifier la nécessité de localiser les opérations de vinification, d'élaboration et d'élevage à l'intérieur de l'aire géographique de production, se borne à exiger, dans son chapitre IX intitulé " Transformation, élaboration, élevage, conditionnement et stockage ", que la vinification s'effectue " conformément aux usages locaux, loyaux et constants " et ne mentionne, dans ses développements consacrés au " lien à l'origine ", que les facteurs naturels et techniques de conduite de la vigne". 

De plus, "les requérants ont pu, pendant des décennies, réaliser leurs opérations de vinification, d'élaboration et d'élevage en dehors de l'aire géographique de production de l'AOC " Pomerol " tout en bénéficiant de cette appellation. Par ailleurs, il ne ressort ni des pièces du dossier ni de l'argumentation développée par le ministre de l'agriculture, de l'agro-alimentaire et de la forêt, l'Institut national de l'origine et de la qualité et le Syndicat agricole et viticole de Pomerol que la localisation de chais comme ceux des requérants, à proximité immédiate de la zone géographique de production, et les opérations de transport de raisin qu'elle implique soient de nature à porter atteinte à la qualité et aux caractéristiques propres aux vins de l'AOC " Pomerol ".

Toujours selon le Conseil d'Etat, "Compte tenu de l'ensemble de ces circonstances, en tant qu'il homologue une modification du cahier des charges de l'AOC " Pomerol " qui ne prévoit la délimitation d'aucune zone de proximité immédiate et exclut donc du bénéfice de cette appellation tous les producteurs qui ne procèdent pas aux opérations de vinification, d'élaboration et d'élevage à l'intérieur de l'aire géographique de production, le décret attaqué est entaché d'une erreur d'appréciation.

Dès lors et sans qu'il soit besoin d'examiner les autres moyens de leur requête, la SCEA Château Siaurac et autres sont fondés à demander l'annulation du décret attaqué en tant qu'il homologue une modification du cahier des charges de l'AOC " Pomerol " s'abstenant de procéder à la délimitation d'une zone de proximité immédiate au titre de cette appellation".

'C'est la troisième fois en 6 ans que le Conseil d'Etat annule cette modification du cahier des charges, qui a déjà connu plusieurs moutures.'

Does this ruling create a precedent in the case of Jacky Blot and François Chidaine being banned by the INAO from making Vouvray in the neighbouring commune of Montlouis. I am not aware of any proper justification for the ban in the Vouvray décret. Indeed when I spoke to Philippe Brisebarre he was keen to stress that he would really like to find a solution but that despite the best efforts of the INAO lawyers in Paris no solution could be found because the Loire is a barrier.....

 Boundary of the commune of Vouvray

(above and below)

Boundary of commune of Montlouis

The southern boundary of Vernou, 

the commune adjacent to Vouvray,

showing land boundaries with Montlouis

These four maps indicate very clearly that in several places that there are land boundaries between Montlouis and those of Vouvray and Vernou, so Philippe Brisebarre was incorrect to say in 2015 that the Loire was a barrier between Vouvray and Montlouis. The Loire is not an administrative barrier to either Vernou or Vouvray as the boundaries of both communes straddle the Loire.

Brisebarre offered no justification, apart from replying on the Loire being a 'barrier', for the banning the vinification of Vouvray in Montlouis. He did explain that the only exception to vinifying within the boundaries of the Vouvray appellation is the commune of Nazelles-Négron just to the north of Amboise.  

I remain astonished that the doubtless well-paid lawyers employed by the INAO were not aware that the communes of both Vouvray and Vernou actually straddle the Loire and physically touch the boundary of the commune of Montlouis.   

I am surprised that Blot and Chidaine have not taken this ban to the Conseil d'Etat, as I think it highly likely that the Conseil would rule in their favour. It may be, of course, that as both Jacky and François are able to easily sell all the 'Vouvray' they make under the Vin de France label it isn't worth the time and expense of going to the Conseil. 

Given the Pomerol ruling by the Conseil d'Etat perhaps the INAO would just throw in the towel and not contest any challenge to the ban on vinifying Vouvray in the commune of Montlouis?

However, the ban is also a good story that sets their 'Vouvrays' apart. At the recent Charles Sydney Wines Ltd tasting in London I was asked at least twice why Jacky Blot's wine was Vin de France and not Vouvray.

Furthermore Jacky and François may also feel that appellation Vouvray is so diminished by their absence that Vin de France is now more prestigious option than appellation Vouvray ….

(Back in 2015 I posted a detailed look at this dispute on Les 5 du Vin. See here. 

Farewell Alastair Mackenzie: teacher and wine writer

I am very sorry to learn that wine writer and long-time member of the Circle of Wine Writers, Alastair Mackenzie, died last night. He had been suffering from Parkinson’s Disease for some time.

  

He was a teacher by profession and taught English and Latin for many years at St Paul’s, an independent school beside the Thames in Barnes (London). Alastair wrote his first article on wine in 1970 and passed the Wine and Spirit Education Trust's Diploma Examination, with honours, in 1974.

Although until he retired wine writing was a part-time activity, Alastair nevertheless produced an impressive body of work. With fellow Circle member, Jeffrey Benson, he wrote two books: Sauternes: A study of the great sweet wines of Bordeaux (1984) and The Wines of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol (1979). Alastair’s Daumas Gassac: The Birth of a Grand Cru appeared in 1995.

A CWW Honorary Life Member, Alastair was a very keen supporter of the Circle. He served on the Committee and was a frequent attender at our AGMs, tastings and dinners. Alastair had a great and scholarly interest in wine without in anyway being stuffy.  

My sincere condolences to Alastair’s wife and family. 

Alastair with Freddy Price (2006)

Château la Conseillante warns against ChateauOnline (part of 1855 group)

Jean-Michel Laporte, director of La Conseillante (Pomerol) has warned French consumers not to buy Conseillante through ChateauOnline part of the infamous 1855 group. Posting on La Conseillante's Facebook page Laporte warns that the price (52€ a bottle) quoted by ChateauOnline is ridiculously cheap and that the 1855 group has a long and well documented history of failing to supply wines ordered by their customers.

It is good to see a Bordeaux château coming out and warning against buying through ChateauOnline and other companies in the 1855 group. It would be even better to see other Bordeaux châteaux issuing simlar warnings.

Nicolas de Rouyn has covered this on his bonvivant blog here and includes a brief interview with Laporte.

ChâteauOnline's offer of La Conseillante 2012 

'ridiculously low' warns Jean-Michel Laporte  

       

Wine Grapes wins the André Simon Memorial Drinks Book Award

Julia Harding MW with Harry Eyres (drinks books' assessor)

2012 Andre Simon Memorial Food and Drink Book Awards:

Wine Grapes wins the 2012 André Simon

The remarkable Wine Grapes (Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, Dr José Vouillamoz published by Penguin Books)  won the 2012 edition of the Andre Simon Memorial Drink Book Award. The winner was announced at a presentation this evening at the Goring Hotel in London's Victoria. Julia Harding MW collected the prize on behalf of the two other members of the triumvirate.  

Harry Eyres

The shortlisted drinks books 

Harry Eyres who was this year's assessor for the wine books, said that in a normal year all of the five short listed books would have been worthy winners.

He described Wine Grapes as an exceptional, groundbreaking work. Not only was it full of information on every page but it is also enjoyable to read. Much of the book's excellence comes from the DNA from José Vouillamoz. 

Harry recalled that some 20 years ago Jancis wrote Vines, Grapes & Wines (published 1986) Wine Grapes 'goes far beyond'.

Of the other short listed books Harry described Brunello di Montalcino (University of California Press) by Kerin O'Keefe  as a labour of love which is shown by the number of visits and amount tasted. He praised Eric Asimov (How to Love Wine published by William Morrow) for going back to a previous discursive approach, in particular for the chapter on ambiguity in wine - an antidote to the present emphasis on scores.

Neal Martin's Pomerol is a 'remarkable and exuberant book on a Bordeaux region that has only relatively recently come to prominence'. Harry recalled that his wine merchant  father, Philip, had bought two cases of Pétrus 1967 - the best wine of the vintage. Two years ago they had shared the last bottle with his late father wistful that he could have bought 120 bottles rather than 24.

With all the changes in the region Peter Liem and Jésus Barquín's superb book (Sherry, Manzanilla & Montilla published by Manutius) is 'timely with many vineyards grubbed up, famous old names that have completely disappeared and now boutique producers' who have emerged.

 Neal Martin with his team – Susanna Forbes (editor), Tin Brown (the designer), and a trio of Averys: L2R – Mimi, Sarah and Jo

Neal Martin was the first recipient of the John Avery Award for his Pomerol book. The award was presented by John's wife Sarah Avery. John died of a heart attack just a few days after last year's award presentation.

The late John Avery MW at last year's presentation

I was very touched that the whole Avery family were so pleased with the photo I took of John raising a glass last year. It was one of those split second photos that you don't even have time to check the focus or anything else. 

Caroline Conran won the Food Book Award for Sud de France (published by Prospect Books). 


In all there were 20 drink books to assess and a massive 120 food books.

  

Julian Cotterell (chairman of the Awards) and Caroline Conran winner of the food book award

Caroline Conran receiving her award 

Julian Cotterell

Harry meets Julia

 Averys – Mimi, Sarah and Jo

Kerin O'Keefe and her husband

Kerin through a glass 

Mimi Avery

Sarah Avery

  

 Alice Wooledge Salmon, wife of Hugo Dunn Meynell who died recently

Hugo was the long time director of the Wine & Food Society founded by André Simon

Neal Martin's Pomerol and the electronic Jasper Morris MW

Berry Bros & Rudd in St James's, London

The UK wine trade and press are now in full swing tasting the 2011 Burgundies en primeur. Apparently there are 27 different Burgundy tastings going on over the next ten days or so. One the tastings yesterday was held by Berry Bros & Rudd.

Neal Martin and his Pomerol book – a serious boy with a serious book 

Here I caught up with Neal Martin and his recently published book on Pomerol. Neal has published this himself and it has taken three years of hard work. It has 592 pages and is priced at £50 plus p&p. It can be ordered through his pomerolbook website. The fine black and white photos are by Swedish photographer Johan Berglund. Although I only caught a quick glimpse of the book, I'm sure knowing Neal that it will be very detailed, thorough and informative.  

Photo by Johan Berglund from the sample chapter available on pomerolbook  

***

 A quizzical Jasper Morris MW – man about town 

rather different from his Burgundian persona

 

The electronic Jasper Morris MW 

Prominent at the tasting was the electronic Côte de Beaune by Jasper Morris MW being shown on the latest version of Apple's iPad – thought to be iPad 5, though it might have been version 4, which came out in November. The Côte de Beaune is the first part of Jasper's award winning Inside Burgundy published by Berry Bros & Rudd in 2010. It has been revised and made interactive by Seagrave Foulkes (Carrie Segrave, Chris Foulkes and Lizzie Ballantyne).  

The app now has hundreds of colour photos, zoomable maps, videos of Jasper in the vineyards plus the ability to make and share your own notes, etc. It also includes Jasper's 2012/13 annual report.  

Chris explained that the program they used was originally designed for producing text books and that they had adapted it. So successfully that Apple apparently say that this is the best book adaptation for the iPad and will be showing it to a group of techie journalists today. The Côte de Beaune app is available through the iBookstore. 

 

Chris Foulkes showing off the electronic Jasper

The Foulkes-Segrave family with their iPads featuring the electronic Jasper

            

Chris Kissack: Pocket Guide to the Wines of Bordeaux

Chris Kissack: Pocket Guide to the Wines of Bordeaux 

This morning's post brought a review copy of Chris Kissack's Pocket Guide to the Wines of Bordeaux, which is published by MAGBOOK and will be available for £6.99 from 24th May. It will be available through WH Smith, www.magbooks.com, Neilson Digital, Zinio and Apple iBook Store. The print version is priced at £6.99 for 146 pages and the digital at £4.99.

It has only taken two weeks from the time that Chris finished writing and proof reading to copies of the printed version being available, so it can be bang up to date and include his assessment of the 2011 vintage. The tale is told here on The Wine Doctor. 

The Pocket Guide (well it would fit into a poacher's pocket) covers vintages from 2010 to 2003, recent news including Latour's intended withdrawal from the en primeur system starting from 2013, profiles of the Firsts including the top in Pomerol and Saint-Emilion, his Top 20 properties mainly from the Médoc and Graves, profiles of his Top 5 Sauternes, Top 10 for value and Top 10 to try. Then there are sections on understanding Bordeaux, communes and classifications, enjoying Bordeaux and ending with money matters – buying, storing, tracking prices and investment. 

With the exception of the cover photography, I think all the images are by the author with some presumably taken with his new SLR, although no photo credits are included.             

Chris Kissack proof reading during the lunch break@2012 Decanter World Wine Awards

Monday 23rd April 2012

Chris has a pop at other annual guides criticising them for their long lead times and for employing 'ghost' writers. As a contributor to the Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Book, I agree it would be good to be able to write copy later particularly with respect to an assessment of the latest vintage but presumably this may well still be logistically difficult. Neither Hugh Johnson nor Oz Clarke have ever claimed that their guides do not rely on help from a number of specialists and the contributors names have always been included and thanked. Also given that the scope of these guides is all the world's wine regions and not just one, albeit a large and very significant one, it is hardly surprising that neither Oz nor Hugh attempts to write their Pocket guides in their entirety. 

Dr Kissack's Bordeaux guide is attractively produced and well written with his customary trenchant views.  

The author enjoying a well deserved rest after all his hard work