Sébastien David petition: an extraordinary success

This petition was launched on Monday.  In only some 48 hours the petition in support of Sébastien Davis, who has been ordered to destroy 2078 bottles of his 2016 Coef Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil because of an alleged excess of volatile acidity, has reached an extraordinary more than 52,000 signatures. It broke through the 50,000 barrier around 8.30 am BST this morning.  

Until late yesterday afternoon the numbers signing had been growing steadily to over 10,000. Suddenly the petition exploded – really took off – doubling, trebling over the course of yesterday evening. 

See earlier posts here and here. Also reporting by Isabelle Saporta.

Update 20.00 CET (8.5.19): 75,000 latest target crushed and now onto 76 698 signatures! 

Apparently Sébastien is ordered his 2016 Coef by Monday 13th May, which is why the court appearance at Orléans is so important. It is estimated that if Sébastien is forced to destroy his 2078 bottle of Coef it will cost him 50,000 euros. 

2016 La Dive Bouteille, Saumur – 31st January and 1st February 2016

The 2016 edition of La Dive Bouteille will be held at the Caves Ackerman, 19 Rue Léopold Palustre, Saint-Hilaire, 49400 Saumur on Sunday 31st January and Monday 1st February 2016. Cost of entry 10€.

Naturally Loire vignerons take centre stage with the following present:

Loire – Home
Marion Pescheux et Manuel Landron, Complémen’terre (Muscadet)
Jérôme Bretaudeau, Bellevue (Muscadet)
Marc Pesnot, la Sénéchalière (Muscadet)
J Bresteau et M Houtin, Grange aux Belles (Anjou)
Aurélien Martin et Philippe Delmée (Anjou)
Geneviève et Nicolas Bertin-Delatte, Echalier (Anjou)
Clément Baraut (Anjou-Savennières)
Sylvain Martinez (Anjou)
Stéphane Erissé, Andrée (Anjou)
Nicolas Reau (Anjou)
Eric Dubois, Clos Cristal (S-Champigny)
Antoine Sanzay (S-Champigny)
Bruno Dubois (S-Champigny)
Sylvanie et Matthieu Bouchet, Gaillard (Saumur)
Thierry Germain, Roches Neuves (S-Champigny)
Sylvain Dittière, Porte Saint-Jean (S-Champigny)
Caroline et Antoine Foucault, le Collier (Saumur)
Arnaud Lambert, Brézé (Saumur)
Emeline et Sébastien Bobinet (S-Champigny)
Romain Guiberteau (Saumur)
Fred Sigonneau, de l’R (Chinon)
Jérôme Lenoir, cave des Roches (Chinon)
François Blanchard, le Grand Cléré (Touraine)
Gérard Marula (Touraine-Chinon)
Lise et Bertrand Jousset (Montlouis)
Sébastien Brunet (Vouvray)
Mathieu Cosme, Beaumont (Vouvray)
C. et D. Delecheneau, Grange Tiphaine (Montlouis)
Grégory Leclerc, Chahut et Prodiges (Touraine)
Noella Morantin (Touraine)
Laurent Saillard (Touraine)
Julien Pineau (Touraine)
Brendan Tracey (Touraine)
Olivier Lemasson, les Vins Contés (Touraine)
Christian Venier (Touraine)
Reynald Héaulé (Orléannais)
Noella et J-P Robinot, l’Ange Vin (Jasnières)
Renaud Guettier, La Grapperie (Côteaux du Loir)
Alexandre Bain (Pouilly-Fumé)
Mathieu Coste (Côteaux du Giennois)
Jean Maupertuis (Côtes d’Auvergne)
Géraldine et C Pialoux, Picatier (Côte Roannaise)

There will be producers from Alsace, Beaujolais, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Jura, Languedoc, Rhône, Roussillon and South West France. Also there are a number outside France from Argentina, Australia, Austria, Chile, Georgia, Italy, Mexico, Slovenia, Spain and the USA.

There will also be some spirit and other drink producers present including Armagnac, Beer, Calvados, Cognac, Mezcal and Sake.    

Le vin au Naturel: 2nd -3rd June – Béatrice et Pascal lambert (Chinon)

Béatrice and Pascal Lambert are holding a small natural wine festival in Cravant-Les-Coteaux on Saturday and Sunday (2nd and 3rd June). Joining them with be a number of producers including Ludovic Chanson (Montlouis) and Christine and Joël Menard from Anjou plus more from other parts of France. Full details can be found on the Lamberts' blog here. 

 Ludovic Chanson

Joël and Christine Menard

  

Loire producers@next weekend's natural wine fairs

Before the divorce: Natural Wine Fair: May 2011, London 

Next weekend there will be two natural wine fairs in London:

RAW: The Artisan Wine Fair: 20th-21st May (20th: all, 21st: trade)

Headed by: Isabelle Legeron 

Old truman Brewery, Brick Lane – close to Shoreditch High Street (Overground) + nearest tube Liverpool Street 

 The Real Wine Fair: 20th-22nd (Consumer 20th , trade: 21st-22nd)
Headed by Douglas Wregg
B1, Victoria House, Holborn, London, WC1B 4DA
Nearest tube: Holborn

Loire producers@RAW:

Béatrice et Pascal Lambert (Chinon)

Château de la Roche en Loire (Louis Jean Sylvos, Touraine and Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau)

Château Tour Grise (Françoise and Philippe Gourdon, Saumur and Le Puy Notre Dame)

Coulée de Serrant (Véronique and Nicolas Joly, Coulée de Serrant + Savennières)

Damien Laureau (Savennières)

Domaine Alexandre Bain (Alexandre Bain, Pouilly-Fumé)

Domaine de Bel Air (Joël Courthault, Touraine)

Domaine de Veilloux (Michel and Arnaud Quenioux, Cheverny)

Domaine des Maisons Brulées (Beatrice and Michel Augé, Touraine)

Domaine Etienne et Sébastien Riffault (Sébastien Riffault, Sancerre)

Domaine La Grange Tiphaine (Coralie and Damien Delecheneau, Montlouis and Touraine)

Domaine Philippe Tessier (Philippe Tessier, Cheverny)

Domaine Sophie et Jerome Saurigny (Sophie and Jérôme Saurigny, Anjou)

Le Clos de la Meslerie (Peter Hahn, Vouvray)

Les Vins Contés (Olivier Lemasson, Vin de France based in AC Cheverny)

Les Vins Domaine du Closel (Evelyne de Pontbriand, Savennières)

Sebastien Bobinet (Saumur-Champigny)


+ honorary Loire producer for their Chenin Blanc: 


James Millton: Millton Vineyards and Winery 

James Millton

Loire producers@The Real Wine Fair:

Domaine Chahut et Prodiges (Grégory Leclerc, Touraine and Touraine-Amboise)

Domaine des Roches-Neuves (Thierry Germain, Saumur and Saumur-Champigny)

Château de Hauteveille (Eric Bordelet, Ciders)

Domaine Alexandre Bain (Alexandre Bain, Pouilly-Fumé)

Domaine Sébastien Riffault (Sébastien Riffault, Sancerre)

Puzelat-Bonhomme (Thierry Puzelat, Touraine and Vin de France) 

Thierry Puzelat & Clos du Tue-Bœuf (Jean-Marie and Thierry Puzelat, Cheverny, Touraine and Vin de France)

Domaine de Montcy (Laura Semeria, Cour-Cheverny and Cheverny)

Domaine du Moulin (Isabelle and Hervé Villemade, Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny)

Domaine de Montrieux (Emile Heredia Coteaux du Vendômois)

Ludovic Chanson (Montlouis)

Domaine Lise & Bertrand Jousset (Lise and Bertrand Jousset, Montlouis)

Domaine Frantz Saumon (Frantz Saumon, Montlouis)

Domaine Nicolas Grosbois (Nicolas Grosbois, Chinon)

Domaine de L’R (Frédéric Sigonneau, Chinon)

Les Vignes Herbels (Laurent Herbel and Nadège Lelandais, Anjou and Vin de France)

Domaine Réné Mosse (Agnès and Réné Mosse, Anjou)

Domaine Saint-Nicolas (Thierry Michon, Fiefs-Vendéens)

Domaine Cousin-Leduc (Olivier Cousin, Vin de France en Anjou)

Domaine Breton (Catherine and Pierre Breton, Bourgueil, Chinon and Vouvray)

Noëlla Morantin (Touraine)

Domaine de la Garrelière (François Plouzeau,Touraine)

Domaine Luc Sébille (Luc Sébille, Chinon)

Domaine Sébastien David (Sébastien David, Bourgueil)

Domaine de la Chevalerie (Stéphanie, Pierre and Etienne Caslot, Bourgueil)

Domaine Le Briseau (Natalie and Christian Chaussard Coteaux du Loir + Jasnières)

Domaines Landron (Jo Landron, Muscadet)

Joseph Landron: leading member of natural moustache movement

Pierre Clavel: the listening vigneron – truly natural! Bouche à l'oreille...!

Pierre Clavel demonstrating @Millésime Bio 12 how essential it is for a winemaker to listen closely to what his wine is telling him

It is obvious that any producer intent on making truly natural or authentic wine must listen closely to what their wine tells them as Pierre Clavel of Domaine Clavel in Languedoc shows here today on the last day of Millesimé Bio 2012.

For this a standard ISO glass is perfectly shaped to fit most people's ears – certainly far better suited than a large Riedel glass that won't trap the delicate frequencies that wine, particularly natural wines, use to communicate when they want the winemaker to intervene or not.

Close up of Pierre listening with due attention to his wine

Launch of Authentic Wine: Jamie Goode & Sam Harrop MW

 Jamie Goode and a copy of Authentic Wine

 
Sam Harrop MW
 

Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop launched their book Authentic Wine last evening at blind tasting and dinner at Artisan & Vine, Clapham Junction, London. The eight wines (4 white and 4 red) served blind were put up by Douglas Wregg and David Gleave MW. The diners had little difficult distinguishing between those selected by Douglas and those by David, especially when it came to the reds. Anything funky was from Douglas, while wines with more classical wines were David's. 

Kathryn O'Mara, owner and manager of Artisan & Vine  

 

Doug Wregg (left) of Les Caves de Pyréne and Anthony Rose 

David Gleave MW (Liberty Wines)

 Guy Woodward (editor of Decanter)

b

Dan Jago (Category Director (Beers, Wines and Spirits) at Tesco Stores Ltd)

Jamie Goode

Joe Wadsack

Robert McIntosh (Vrazon) ready to talk Turkey?

See here an account of the event  by Anne Krebiehl on harpers Wine & Spirit Trades Review. Also post on Jamie's Wine Anorak site here.

Les 5 du Vin looks@a couple of books – Alice Feiring's naked wine and Ben Howkins Port for Real Men

See the new post here.

Jamie Goode: the coming wine war?

Jamie Goode

 

Interesting and controversial piece from Jamie Goode on his wine anorak blog which has provoked considerable discussion here:

'The coming wine war

There’s a clash of cultures in the world of fine wine, and before too long it could become a war.

On the one hand, we have the fine wine establishment, which is dominated by Bordeaux, but also includes the top Champagne houses, as well as a few others such as the super-Tuscans. This is wine as a luxury good or an investment vehicle. It’s where the money is.

On the other hand, we have the emerging terroiriste/natural wine movement. This is somewhat counterculture, and its development as a category threatens the status quo of fine wine.

As the message of authentic wine with a sense of place – made by people driven by passion rather than profit – gains traction, it is causing a degree of discomfort in the fine wine establishment.'

Tim Atkin MW gives an agnostic's view on natural wines

 Jean-Christophe Garnier: Vin mousseux de Qualité

Interesting and well balanced but agnostic look by Tim Atkin MW at the 'natural' wine phenomenon. Originally published in Off Licence News, Tim has posted it on his site.

Like Tim I'm agnostic or questioning, perhaps more accurate, with regards to 'natural' wines. There are certainly some wonderfully expressive wines that are described as 'natural', equally there are some real horrors – see above the sparkling wine from Jean-Christophe Garnier in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay (original post here). Also some reflections on the 'ayatollahs' of the movement. 

France: organic viticulture growing strongly + Thierry Puzelat video

Le bio en forte croissance

Fin 2009 la surface revendiquée par les vignerons français en viticulture biologique (ou en conversion) atteignait 39 000 ha. Un chiffre qui a doublé en 4 ans, et qui a été multiplié par 8 en 14 ans. Le nombre d’exploitations engagées en bio a augmenté de 31 % en une année, pour 3024 exploitations recensées fin 2009. 

Lire la suite... 

The article doesn't mention the Loire, where organic viticulture has long been well represented. Apparently the biggest increases have been seen in Languedoc-Roussillon (12 661 ha, + 52 % compared to 2008), Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (8 981 ha, + 35 %) and Aquitaine (5 464 ha, + 45 %).

***

Thierry Puzelat

The Guardian has a video of the 2010 harvest at Domaine du Tué-Boeuf with Thierry Puzelat, which also stars Henrietta Lovell in fetching red. She is modelling some of the latest bio-vêtements. It is a recent discovery that wearing bright colours and patterns can deter unwanted insects and birds from invading vineyards. Red is particularly effective during the harvest in deterring ravenous birds from feasting on the ripe grapes.

 

Floral vineyard@Clos Roche Blanche

Fiona Beckett's new natural wine blog + one utterly pointless one

Fiona Beckett with Jacky Blot in Montlouis early October 2010

Fiona Beckett, who is the Guardian's new wine writer, has just launched a new blog called Wine Naturally.

Her first post starts thus:

'Why drink natural wine?

Or, more to the point - why devote a whole blog to it? It’s a long story. My husband got into natural wine a couple of years ago and I have to say I was rather sniffy about it. I thought most of the reds I tasted were unappealingly rustic and a lot of the whites tasted of cider.' 

This is a very welcome new blog which hopefully will provide a forum to discuss the issues raised by and surrounding natural wines.

***

In contrast a link to an entirely pointless new video from James Suckling. He seems to be determined to prove that he's a complete twat.

Les blagues (jokes) de Jean-Christophe Garnier

20 February 2009

Jean-Christophe Garnier's 'vin mousseux de qualité'
To be fair the wine's colour was darkened by the flash and has been tweaked by Photoshop, although the actual colour was slightly lighter but the wine was just as muddy.

During dinner with the Cabernet Franc Ambassadors we tried a few other wines as O'Bistro has an interesting and eclectic list. The last 'wine' was the most memorable for all the wrong reasons. From Jean-Christophe Garnier, and apparently made from 100% Grolleau, this is a textbook example of the type of wine that gives 'natural wines' a bad name. Described as a vin mousseux de qualité (quality sparkling wine), it was light brown in colour and distinctly cloudy. Indeed far more reminiscent of rough farmyard scrumpy than a sparkling wine.

As it is virtually undrinkable I can only assume that this is a sophisticated joke by Monsieur Garnier of Saint-Lamber-du-Lattay – otherwise how could you put such a faulty and poor wine on the market? Equally I can only assume that this is the reason that it is probably stocked in 'cutting edge' wine bars. The alarming thing is that I'm pretty sure that this is not the worst wine that I have tasted from Jean-Christophe Garnier as he exhibits every year at the Renaissance des Appellations. I'm not against 'pushing the envelope', exploring the limits, but you have to be able to recognise when something is a miserable failure.

Several around the table questioned how this could be possibly described as 'mousseux de qualité', even 'vin' and Jean-Christophe calling himself a 'vigneron' raised eyebrows.

Before we were served the excerable mousseux we were served a couple of reds blind. The first was considerably lighter in colour than the Cabernet Francs we had been enjoying. I thought it was from the Loire and opted for a Pinot Noir from the Central Vineyards as did Gérard Vallée. Perhaps I should have been more courageous and plumped for a Sancerre, which, in fact, it was – 2006 Terre de Maimbray from Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy. The second was similar in colour but a little lighter in body. I surprised myself by guessing that it was a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. Actually it was 2007 Les Andilles, Cherveny from Hervé Villemade – 80% Pinot Noir 20% Gamay. Pleasant enough but not memorable – still it was 2007. Jérome felt that the finish was bitter.