Fine lunch @the elegant Rocpool Reserve, Inverness

Entrance to Rocpool Reserve

Today we met up with two friends that we had met in China to have lunch at the Rocpool Reserve, part of the Albert Roux empire. 

As our friends were delayed by a slow running train from Aberdeen, we went to the bar and ordered a bottle of 2014 Vondeling from South Africa. This is an attractive blend of 50% Chenin Blanc, 24% Chardonnay, 13% Grenache Blanc and 13% Viognier vinified in 500-litre French oak. The 2014 combines good concentration with freshness in the finish. 

We chose a mix of dishes from the set-menu (£32.50 for lunch, £35 for dinner) and from the à la carte. We were impressed throughout by the quality of the dishes. 

  

 Bar area 

(above and below)

 2014 Vondeling from South Africa 

(above and below) 

First courses: 

 Roux's classic souffle 

– wonderfully light and delicate 

 Long, slow cooked pork 

Smoked mackerel 

 

Our red: 

2015 Fleurie, Château de Raousset 

a powerful and rich black fruited Fleurie  

Main courses:

Rabbit ballotine 

Assiette of lamb 

Our sweet wine: 

 2011 Coteaux du Layon 1er Cru Chaume, 

Domaine des Forges 

This 2011 Chaume half bottle from Domaine des Forges (Stéphane et Séverine Branchereau) was a delight with a lovely balance of rich but delicate fruit with good acidity in the finish. Still youthful this Chaume can last for many years to come.  A clear demonstration as to why 2011 is a very good vintage in the Layon. 

Our two previous wines had been served in entirely appropriate Riedel glasses., so it was very surprising that the restaurant produced small copitas for this wine. I asked instead for the Chianti style Riedel glasses that we had had for our white wine and this was immediately done. 

I hope that producing small copitas for the Chaume was an aberration – I'm sure that Albert Roux would not be happy to see a very fine Loire sweet wine served in such small and inappropriate glasses! 

We finished with coffee sitting out on the terrace in the warm Inverness sunshine. 

Rocpool Reserve is certainly recommended for an indulgent mid-week lunch. The wine list has an interesting range of wines from around the world with a fair number at reasonable prices for a restaurant of this class. It is, however, a pity that the only sparkling wine available is Champagne starting from £87 a bottle. What about listing a more affordable Crémant?  

Eating well in Scotland: The Letterbox, Newtonmore

The Letterbox, Main Street, Newtonmore 

Last week we had a very enjoyable return visit to The Letterbox Restaurant in Newtonmore. The restaurant opened in 2010.  

It was good to see that it was busy. We started with a glass of South African Chenin Blanc while we considered our choices. Three of us opted for the two course evening menu – starter and main course – for £16.95.  

First courses: 

I choose the tasty mackerel paté, while the others went for the chicken mousse – also tasty, well made and generous portions.       

 Mackerel paté with a salad and oak cakes 

 Apricot, asparagus and chicken mousse 

Main courses: 

Our three choices of main courses 

 

 Plaice fillets in a cream sauce with samphire, 

carrots and new potatoes

– off the a la carte specials menu

 A rich and very good venison stew with haggis dumplings

 Meat balls with tagliatelle: another rich and copious dish

 2014 Fleurie, Cru du Beaujolais, Patrick Chodot

Fleurie from a good vintage which partnered even the rich dishes well

 Profiteroles with a cream filling 

Créme Brulée with apricot and vanilla

We have had several meals at The Letterbox and have always been impressed, so am happy to recommend this restaurant. I do wonder, however, at the wide range of dishes offered in a restaurant that has space for a maximum of just over 30 covers. On the set dinner menu there are five choices of starter and main course. The à la carte menu has a big choice and then there is a specials board with five starters and five mains. It is difficult to see how this makes economic sense.