Domaine Huet and La Revue du Vin de France: a clarification

Sarah Hwang in discussion with Chris Kissack@

2014 Salon des Vins de Loire (above and below)

On 18th February La Revue du Vin de France published a story about Chris Kissack and I being banned by Sarah Hwang from tasting the 2013 Domaine Huet wines during the 2014 Salon des Vins de Loire. Unfortunately the words ascribed to me (highlighted below) are not mine but are from Zelda Sydney. We had both commented on Chris Kissack's post here.I was not contacted by La Revue du Vin de France.

RVF article:

 'Clash entre le domaine Huet et deux bloggers

 Published by La Revue du Vin de France: 18th February 2014

'Jim Budd explique ce banissement du stand du domaine Huet par le fait que les nouveaux propriétaires (la famille Hwang) depuis 2004, "exercent un étroit contrôle sur tout ce qui se fait chez eux, et ce qui se dit à leur propos. Ils ont peur que leur marque soit ternie. La marque a pris le pas sur le terroir".'

What I actually wrote on the Wine Doctor blog:

Initially I quoted Zelda's earlier comment. Perhaps when commenting I should have put Zelda Sydney in brackets but the comment was in quote marks and mine started – Zelda etc. 

Zelda Sydney – name now added for clarification: ‘My understanding is that the new owners bought a brand, not terroir, and that they’ll assume control over anything (winemaking, criticism…) that they think is damaging to their concept of the brand. Brand trumps terroir.’

My comment: Zelda. I think it is important to distinguish between the father Anthony Hwang and his children. Anthony bought the domaine in 2003 after the death of Gaston Huet, the previous year. Anthony was always charming, a great supporter of Noël Pinguet and my impression was that Noël was happy working with Anthony and for the first time he had a stake in the domaine. Noël’s relationship with his father-in-law, Gaston Huet, was not always easy – both have (or in Gaston’s case had) strong personalities. 

At some point Anthony handed over the running of the domaine to his children and I don’t know the history of this changeover but Noël’s relationship with the Hwangs fell apart subsequent to this handover.

I’m sure that Anthony understood full well the quality of the terroir/site, especially the Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, that he had bought.'

I have asked La Revue du Vin de France to correct this error.

Anthony Hwang@Domaine Huet during 2010 vintage

 

Salon des Vins de Loire: photos from Monday 3rd February

 Arnaud Bourgeois

Some photos from Monday 3rd @2014 Salon des Vins de Loire:

Bernard Sirot – veteran wine journalist and Sauternes producer 

 Bertrand Couly – Domaine Pierre and Bertrand Couly

 Didier Richou, Domaine Richou

Joseph Balland 

 

Lionel Gosseaume saluting his new Climat No 2: Meslier Saint-François (40%), 

Menu Pineau (40%) and Sauvignon Blanc (20%)  

 Michel Rousseau – leading light in Noble Joué

 On the Marc Olivier stand

Pierre Couly

Rémi Branger, Domaine de la Pépière, Muscadet

Sébastien Redde, Domaine Michel Redde, Pouilly-Fumé

Can the Salon des Vins de Loire survive?

Although the writing has been on the wall for a few years now, the 2014 Salon des Vins de Loire has really brought the future of the Salon into sharp focus. The empty aisles on Wednesday forced a number of producers to wonder whether the Salon will survive. The Salon is supposed to close at 18.00 on the Wednesday but by that time most of the exhibitors had packed up and departed.

(Photos taken late morning on Wednesday 5th February. The third day is always quieter but not as quiet as this.) 

Huet, Luneau, Marionnet, Redde, Taluaua-Foltzenlogel: 

normally one of the busiest stands at the Salon almost deserted.

For much of the 2014 edition possible to taste there in comfort

The provisional figures released at the end of the Salon on Wednesday claimed between 8500-9000 visitors for the 2014 edition with a slight increase on last year’s figures. It is very difficult to believe that these are unique visitors. Instead these are much more likely to be the total number of visits over the three days.

How long will exhibitors continue to pay 2000 euros for a small stand? Obviously you pay considerably more for a larger more substantial one. The third day at the Salon has always been quiet but this year Tuesday also seemed quiet. There were certainly some producers, who reported that this edition had been quiet and they had seen few people. Equally there were other producers, examples include Lionel Gosseaume (Touraine) and Stéphane and Carine Sérol, who were very positive about the contacts they had made during the Salon and the business done.

Some familiar names have already disappeared from the Salon. This year no Pierre-Jacques Druet (Bourgueil, Chinon), no Château de Tracy (Comte Henry d'Assay, Pouilly-Fumé), no Thomas Labaille (Sancerre), no Domaine de Bellivière (Christine and Eric Nicolas). Over the last few years producers like Domaine Champalou have decided that going to Prowein in Dusseldorf late March is more profitable than attending the Salon at the end of January.

Two difficult and short vintages along with the continuing economic difficulties have forced both producers and visitors to tighten their belts.

The first edition of the Salon des Vins de Loire was in 1987 and attracted a small number of producers mainly from Anjou with a few from Saumur. It soon became the essential annual date for Loire wines. Now in 2014 that position has been eroded. In part by the competing Salons Off, especially those like the Dive Bouteille (Saumur) and La Levée de Loire (Greniers de Saint Jean, Angers), which run on the Monday, the first day of the Salon. However, equally important the Salon has failed to evolve - it is stuck in a rut. For instance the website is poor with French the only proper language offered. There are other languages offered including English, simplified Chinese and Japanese but this relies on the strengths or vagaries of Google translate - the cheapskate solution!

Google Translate treats from Salon des Vins de Loire website:  

‘Stand naked :
We provide bare ground without partition (except joint stands) without carpet (with the possibility to control a) without banner or sign.’

* 

 ‘register online to expose' – an attempt to attract the dirty mac brigade?

These two examples hardly give the impression that the Salon is professional! 

Quiet stands in the Amphitea 

It is clearly absurd that a number of organic producers hold La Levee de la Loire in the centre of Angers on the first day of the Salon which was held at the Parc des Expositions on the north east edge of the town. Time for both sides to stop blaming each other. Instead to set aside local politics and find a way of accommodating the organic producers at the Salon. 

It is in neither party’s interest to allow the Salon, which can be a wonderful showcase of Loire wines, to wither and die. No Salon and few visitors outside the immediate region will bother to attend La Levée de la Loire nor, probably the other Salons Off. Anecdotal reports suggest that La Levée was poorly attended this year. I enjoy going to the Renaissance tasting but wouldn't travel from London specially to go to Renaissance though I might well if I was in Touraine at the time.

The Salon needs a new impetus - a new sense of excitement. Further drift and delay could well be fatal. It would be a great shame if the Salon des Vins de Loire ceased to be viable and disappeared. 

The 2015 edition of the Salon (the 29th edition) runs from Monday 2nd February to Wednesday 4th February 2015. Let's hope this edition sees the start of a return to health. Ever optimistic I booked my hotel for 2015 before I left yesterday!  

 Ackerman stand

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2014 Salon des Vins de Loire: why one New York importer won't be there

I have been at the Salon des Vins de Loire every year since 1990. For me it is an indispensable date: I enjoy the Salon and find it very useful. Every year I book my hotel room for the next year on my last day in Angers.  

However, I am aware that the Salon doesn't have the same attraction for many of my fellow UK wine writers and journalists  – very few make the relatively easy journey out to Angers. It is years since a writer with a column in a national paper has attended the Salon. Equally it doesn't attract this anonymous importer from New York, who will be in Angers but won't be going to the Salon. I assume that he will go the Renaissance tasting at the Greniers de Saint Jean (Saturday and Sunday) and perhaps to La Levée de la Loire on the Monday (organic wines).

Covering letter from producer:

  

madame monsieur
veuillez trouver ci joint un mail reçu ce jour d'un importateur de NY.

Par discrétion je ne mentionne pas son nom. Mais je pense que ses remarques méritent notre attention à tous. 

Vous remarquerez qu'il est à Angers la semaine précédent le salon et pour le moment il ne compte venir. C'est un comble pour un importateur qui vient de NY.

New York importer's comments: 'je ne serais pas au salon des vins de Loire, les quelques expériences que j'ai eu ont toujours été mauvaises , l'organisation est zero, le restaurant est nul et avec 3 serveurs qui courrent dans tous les sens , tout le monde attend , il est impossible de s'assoir avec clients ou fournisseurs , ce salon a une mauvaise reputation , je vais au salon de Montpellier car ils s'occupent tres bien des acheteurs potentiels et mon badge et horaires trains / avions m'arrive tous les ans a la maison à NY, la derniere fois que je suis alle au salon d'Angers avec un invite , nous etions des centaines dans un petit hall , et quand l'heure d'ouvrir est arrivée , deux personnes distribuaient les badges et nous avons attendu 45 minutes pour entrer, et  après ces 45 minutes d'attente nous avons déposé nos vetements au vestiaire et ils nous ont dit qu'ils n'y avait plus de programmes de degustations , une belle blague , un salon qui n'a plus de programmes apres 45 minutes ...

mon invité qui avait 74 ans a du repartir , imaginez ce chaos, après avoir voyager en bus /train/avion ou 15-18h ont a besoin d’être traité un peu mieux.

ce salon n'a même pas une dimension nationale ou internationale il est design pour les restaurants et cavistes locaux. j'ai envoyé du courrier a l'organisation et n'ai jamais eu de réponse !!!

j'allais oublier que mêmes les vignerons sont mal traites , car le parking était une patinoire, ils n'ont jamais prit soin d’éviter le gèle et les vignerons ne pouvait pas décharger leurs camions.

ceci dit , je suis a Angers mardi et mercredi prochain et vous pouvez envoyer une btl de chaque: sauv-blanc, vouvray sec'

2014 The Wine Blog Trophy: the popular vote + jury's decision

There are two prizes this year for the Wine Blog Trophy, linked to the annual Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers from Monday 3rd to Wednesday 5th February. The first prize – the post/blogger with the most internet votes – has already been decided: David Farge - Le blog d'Abistodenas  with 367 votes was the runaway victor gathering over 100 votes more than his closest rival.   

For the 8th edition of the Blog Trophy itself the jury has now picked the five finalists who will compete on the morning of Monday 3rd February at the Salon.

The five finalists:

-Marc Vanhellemont  (154 votes) – Les 5 du Vin
-Yann Dereu (119) – - ah-le-vin
-Catherine Arnaud (47) – ô coeur des vins   

-Nicolas Brouté  (78) – Melon de Bourgogne
-Benjamin Poussardin (169) – Les Aventures de Bimbin Foudevin

Interesting that the result of the 'popular' vote and the jury diverged considerably with the two most popular blog posts by David Farge and Antoon Laurent who between them gathered 621 votes – 44.5% of the total votes cast.

The Jury for 2014:

Pierrick Jégu, auteur du guide des cavistes 2014.

Camille Méric, Directrice Flagship pour les prestigieuses caves parisiennes Legrand Filles et Fils.

Mickaël Ravier, caviste incontournable sur Nantes, ayant fait la « une » du guide des Cavistes 2014.

Julie Truffert, Chargée de Communication numérique au sein d'InterLoire.

Rendez vous le 3 février, sur le Salon des Vins de Loire, pour connaître le vainqueur de cette 8ème édition.

The state of voting play as it ended:
David Farge - Le blog d'Abistodenas  367 votes 
Antoon Laurent – The Wine Patriot    254 votes
Benjamin Poussardin – Les Aventures de Bimbin Foudevin 169 votes
Marc Vanhellemont – Les 5 du Vin     154 votes
Yann Dereu - ah-le-vin                     119 votes
Médérick Tremaud – Vinobingo, Les Brèves de terroir de Med 112 
Nicolas Brouté – Melon de Bourgogne  78 votes
Nove-Josserand Robyn - Novevin         76 votes
Catherine Arnaud ô coeur des vins       47 votes 

Chantal Sarrazin - Mademoiselle Mistral 7 votes 
Antoine Mantzer – Le Blog d'Epicure      6 votes
Léon Mazzella – Kally Vasco                  6 votes

Marc Vanhellemont – one of the finalists 

and a member of Les 5 du Vin

Le Wine Blog Trophy, c’est parti !

The 2011 winner: Fabrice Leglatin with Marc Vanhellemont

The annual wine blog contest organised around the Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers was launched yesterday:

Details:

'Organisé par le Salon des Vins de Loire, le Wine Blog Trophy est un concours dédié aux bloggeurs œnophiles français. Pour la 8ème édition, le Salon des Vins de Loire vous invite à nous faire partager votre « Vins de Loire addiction » !

Avant de vous inscrire, postez sur votre blog un article en rapport avec le thème 2014 : « Les Vins de Loire, une belle découverte chez mon caviste ». Faites nous partager votre meilleur moment de dégustation de Vins de Loire chez un caviste que vous affectionnez ! Il vous accompagnera ensuite pour la finale, en direct du Salon des Vins de Loire.

Deux nouveautés pour cette nouvelle édition :

Le prix des internautes récompensera le bloggeur le plus « liké » par ses fans.

Eurocave mettra en jeu une Wine Art, cave de conservation pour vin au verre. 

Une exclusivité d’une valeur de 389€.

Bonne chance à tous !'

Details on how to enter are here.