2012 Loire: weather continues to flay producers

Driving between Doué-la-Fontaine and Brissac-Quincé: late Monday afternoon

Vignerons in most parts of the Loire must think that the weather has been subcontracted (privatised?) to a particularly malicious devil, who has delighted in tormenting them but sending entirely inappropriate weather. For instance after a prolonged dry period between late July and around 20th September, the weather has now turned very unstable with rain on Saturday, overnight on Sunday to Monday, heavy rain late Monday afternoon followed by frequent and sometimes heavy showers on Tuesday. To make matters worst it is very warm and humid with temperatures still around 19˚C late on Tuesday evening.  

   Mousseron on the edge of an Aubance vineyard

This is great news for mushroom lovers with all kinds of fungi growing in great profusion this week both in the vineyards and their surroundings. No good news for the grapes as conditions that are ideal for mushrooms are also ideal for grey rot, which is now starting to appear. For the moment the Cabernet seems to be resisting well but rot in the Chenin Blanc is becoming increasingly evident. 

 Vineyards between Mozé-sur-Louet and Brissac-Quincé: Cabernet – still largely rot free

Not so Chenin Blanc: in same vineyard – some good bunches but also some well affected by grey rot (below)

 

Producers will be hoping that this wet, humid period is shortlived and that there will be sunshine, wind from the east and cooler temperatures. Sadly the devil in charge of the 2012 weather is unlikely to be so obliging!  

Hitherto the 2012 grape juice has been very clean and pure but with the onset of rot will this continue?

La Châtelaine@Clos Roche Blanche

Seccotine oversees the tasting

Tasting today of the current vintages available at the Clos Roche Blanche under the watchful eye of Seccotine, La Châtelaine of the estate.

Apparently comfortably perched on the lip of a conical wooden vat

With Seccotine's approval we tasted the floral, clean, fresh and precise 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Cuvée No 2. Although it only has 5 grams of sulphur per litre (the norm is 20-25 grams), there is no trace of oxidation. 

The richly opulent and concentrated Cuvée No 5 from 2009 is a contrast with its echoes of some of the Cotat Sancerres. Tasted blind I'm sure I could mistake it for a restrained Viognier with its light apricot character. The 2010 Pineau d'Aunis Rosé is light with less d'Aunis character than usual. However, the 2010 l'Arpent Rouge is delicious as I have recently posted – great investment for summer drinking! The spicy, soft and concentrated 2010 Gamay is also very good with more complexity than most Touraine Gamays have. Drinking well now it will also last a good three or four years.    

Pif guards the entrance to cellar

The last 2010 was Cuvée Pif (one third Côt and two thirds Cabernet) again lighter in style than the 2009. Catherine and Didier didn't make a pure Côt in 2010. We finished with the lovely 2009 Côt, once again demonstrating how successful this variety can be in the Cher Valley. Deep coloured and richly textured with a long finish, this needs a good three or four years to show its best. Doubtless will still drink well in 10 or 15 years time.  

PS Drought postponed for the moment – heavy but steady rain in Epeigné-les-Bois yesterday evening for a good three hours or more. However, it will take days of rain to bring the water table back to normal. Some gentle rain this morning.

Clos Roche Blanche – une grande dégustation verticale

 

Busy tasting

Today we held a big tasting of the wines of the Clos Roche Blanche arranged in several verticals with the oldest wine from 1987. A total of 42 wines were shown. Although impressive verticals are relatively common in parts of the wine world, today's tasting was a fairly unique event for a Touraine producer in the Cher Valley.

It is a testament to quality of the Clos Roche Blanche wines that although a few of the older wines were drying out there was hardly a complete dud. Even the 1987 Côt from a very difficult year was still there as a pale phantom. Otherwise perhaps the 1995 Gamay was closest to being off its perch – disappointing as the 1996 Gamay is still there are giving pleasure.

The wines 

Arpent (Chenin Blanc, Arbois etc.): 2000, 1999, 1998

Sauvignon: 2001 2000, 1996 1995

Sauvignon n°2 : 2007 2006 2004, 2002

Gamay: 2005, 1999, 1996, 1995, 1990 (Première Vendange, Henry Marionnet)

Côt: 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999, 1997, 1996 1995, 1994, 1987

Closerie (blend of Cabernet, Côt and Gamay) : 2006, 2004, 2002, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1993

Cabernet: 1996, 1989 (Domaine Michaud)

Further details to follow.

Some of the bottles

Touraine: 1989 Cabernet and 2001 Côt

1989 Cabernet, Touraine, Thierry Michaud

Although I was pretty confident that this 1989 would show well I was pleased by how well it showed with still quite young colour and good, medium weight evolved fruit and fair length. I used to visit Domaine Michaud in Noyers-sur-Cher quite frequently but have got out of the habit – not because the wines weren't good. I should go back again. I have no idea what I paid for it – probably the equivalent of £3-£4. proof again that the Loire offers very good value and that you don't have to pay the high prices demanded by Bordeaux to have a Cabernet that will age well.

 

2001 Côt

This Côt was a pleasant surprise from La Gourmandière– the Cave Cooperative of Francueil. In my time I have had some poor wines from this cooperative. However, this Côt, although not a heavyweight, had aged well with attractive mature fruit and that touch of rusticity that tends to be Côt's hallmark.