Loire 2019 – Saumur, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Bourgueil

Picking @Domaine de la Butte, Bourgueil

Some photos and reports from harvest in Saumur, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Bourgueil on 3rd October.

2019 Cabernet Franc in vineyard along Montée de l'Angle Cher, Saumur 
Above and below
(Saumur-Chempigny)

 

Picture perfect Cabernet Franc

We made a number of visits on Thursday 3rd October to vignerons to see how the 2019 harvest was progressing. The overall message is that 2019 is another quality vintage, that it is a very good vintage for whites with a better balance and freshness than 2018. However, unlike the generous 2018 vintage, 2019 is a small vintage due to a combination of factors – spring frosts, coulure and millerandage during flowering due to wet conditions in early June, drought and grapes being grilled by the sun.

In last week's post I raised the frequency of grapes being frazzled by the heat spikes at the end of June and during July. It would appear that the spike at the end of July caused the most damage. It also seems that Chenin Blanc was more affected by the heat of the sun than Cabernet Franc.  Raising the height of the canopy is one way of providing more protection through increasing the amount of shade compared to vines with a low canopy.

As is often the case there were some who were only just starting – Anthony and Cedric Bonneau (Domaine de la Bonnelière – Saumur and Saumur-Champigny.  They had started that day on picking Cabernet for their rosé and would also be picking their Chenin Blanc for their Saumur Blanc. They had picked grapes destined for their Crémant de Loire between the 22nd and 24th September. However, they would only start picking their Cabernet Franc for Saumur Rouge and Saumur Champigny at the beginning of this week beginning 7th October. In contrast Antoine Sanzay, Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Ch de Villeneuve), Frédéric Mabileau, Yannick Amirault and Philippe Boucard (Lamé Delisle Boucard) were all close to finishing.

Higher trained vines not only provide more foliage
but also increased shade give further protection against sunburnt grapes

 

Example of higher foliage providing more shade
+ vine suffering from Esca

 

Chenin Blanc grapes grilled by the sun, Saumur

Picking @Domaine de la Butte, Bourgueil

Frédéric Mabileau– 2019 Cabernet Franc
again picture perfect fruit

Jean-Paul Mabileau (doesn't want to wait for the 2019 wine to be made
– he wants to enjoy the grapes now!

 

2019 Cabernet Franc macerating, Domaine Yannick Amirault
Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil

 

Barrels and amphores @Domaine Yannick Amirault

Frédéric Mabileau and his small egg
containing Chenin Blanc with pips and skins

 

•••

Antoine Sanzay's renovated cave 

The entrance to the complex of caves

During our visit to see how 2019 was progressing at Antoine Sanzay (Varrains), he quickly showed his renovated cave. The complex of cellars, part of which was once a dwelling, has for many years existed but now they have been renovated to provide wine storage space. The major work was concreting the floor to make an easy and convenient surface.

Antoine has installed a lift for easy access for his wine

 

The lift housing 

Two fine meals in 24 hours – Le Clos de Jeanne (Genillé) - Part 1

We used to be great fans of the Agnès Sorel in Genillé but sadly this restaurant in the village centre has been closed for at least a year now. It stands sadly vacant and forlorn opposite the village church.

Passing through Genillé on one of my bike rides a couple of weeks I stopped to have a look at the menu of Le Clos de Jeanne (28, Bis rue Jeanne d'Arc). At one point there had been a Salon de Thé here and, I think, a crèperie. However, Le Clos de Jeanne, run by Alain et de Bernadette Auroy, has been a restaurant for for some years now. Looking at the menu I had to wonder why we hadn't tried Le Clos de Jeanne before. It was largely because we were so impressed by the Agnès Sorel that we didn't look elsewhere. 

We made up for that last night and had a very enjoyable meal. The service by Bernadette was excellent from her friendly and welcoming manner when I phoned up to reserve and this continued right through the meal last night. She was friendly and efficient with a fine sense of humour. 

While Bernadette looks after the salon, her husband, Bernard rattles the pots and pans to good effect and without assistance. See photos of dishes below.  

The short wine list includes a number of interesting bottles both from the Loire and elsewhere in France. We chose the 2011 Romo, AC Cour-Cheverny from Domaine des Huards. This is still quite lemony but is now developing some complexity. Romorantin, rather like Hunter Valley Semillon, needs time to develop.  

Two courses for 24€ – three course for 29€. Definitely recommended.  

2011 Romo, Cour-Cheverny, Domaine des Huards, 

Michel Gendrier 

The excellent bread is baked by a friend 

Tatin de magret de canard fumé aux pommes et foie gras

Saumon fumé sur lit de lentilles, oeuf poché et sauce gribiche

Flanc au crabe, tomates-cerise, mesclun et crème ciboulette

2014 Les Rouillères, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Frédéric Mabileau

Having dispatched the Romo we opted for the delicious 2014 Les Rouillères from Frédéric Mabileau. Lovely sweet fruit with enough acidity in the finish to stop this from being cloying. Although still very young so many 2014 Cabernet reds are drinking wonderfully well at the moment. They should also have the potential to age well but they are current so good that many bottles may well not survive for long!    

Rognon de veau émincé à la crème de moutarde

Rumsteak with butter flavoured with piment d'Espelette

Nos profiteroles sauce au chocolat 

Part 2: Le Pot de Lapin, Saumur (separate post to come)

#2015Loire: harvest looking promising again in Kingdom of Cab Franc!

 Cabernet Franc grapes in l'Enclos des Poules 

Ingrandes-de-Touraine, AC Bourgueil

Last Saturday the wind swung round to the north east and this has made a big difference in drying out and re-concentrating the grapes after the week of very heavy rain – 13th-18th September.

 Gérard Vallée checking grapes going up the conveyor belt

 Freddy Mabileau's 2015 look – he is busy harvesting 

Two briliantly creative meals – part 2: Roger Jones@The Harrow

The Harrow in Little Bedwyn

As promised this is the second part of a double post on a couple of brilliantly creative meals we enjoyed in July: one in Lisbon at André Magalhães at his tiny Taberna da Rua Flores, Lisbon and this one at Roger Jones' The Harrow. 

Amuse bouche – olives, garlic cloves and 

the famous foie gras macaroons

2008 Chenin du Puy, AC Saumur Blanc, Frédéric Mabileau

(above and below)

Roger and Sue Jones kindly invited us to bring one or more bottles (BYOB). We took one – the 2008 Le Puy, Saumur Blanc from Frédéric Mabileau. Sadly we only had one bottle left as this one was delicious, very attractively evolved with honey and pineapple notes along with brilliantly clean acidity underlining what a fine vintage 2008 is for dry whites in the Loire. This was Frédéric's second vintage from his small plot of Chenin Blanc at Le Puy Notre Dame.

Pure Chenin this 2008 was picked in two tris – the first on 11th October and the second on 22nd October.     

We chose the six course menu for £50 a head 

Crab & pea cocktail 

(above and below)

Classy olive oil 

Sashimi of yellow fin tuna, caviar rocks, crème fraîche 

with a stunning beetroot sorbet with wasabi 

– dish of the evening against very tough competition.

The tuna was wonderfully fresh and Frédéric's Saumur 

was a perfect match

Memorable decanter for a memorable wine 

The Harrow has an excellent wine list reflecting the Jones' enthusiasm for the wines of New Zealand, Australia and South Africa in particular. The Pinot Noirs from Felton Road (Central Otago) are one of the specially featured estates. We chose the 2010 Block 3, Pinot Noir, which was delicious and finely balanced, silky texture and lovely complexity with good freshness in the finish.  

Line caught turbot, Périgord truffle risotto

New season Welsh lamb, Isle of Wight tomatoes 

Mango, passion fruit and clementine parfait 

After opting for a tasting plate of cheese, we finished the meal with this 

fine dessert - 'Berry' - based on soft summer fruits  

Not only was the food delicious, the service was impeccable, relaxed and friendly. We'll be back soon!!