Now which two distinguished Decanter contributors are no longer seen...!
Wednesday, 30 June 2010
Decanter deadlines – dont' miss them!
Now which two distinguished Decanter contributors are no longer seen...!
2007 Nuance, Sancerre, Vincent Pinard
Opened last night, this initally had quite a vegetal character with some asparagus notes. However, with a little bit of aeration this declined, although it did not disappear entirely. There is attractive ripe, zingy fruit here. All very typical of the 2007 vintage with quite marked but clear precise acidity in the finish. Lovely classic Sancerre!
Sancerre: time to consider screwcaps
Of the 34 there were five that were corked, which is an extraordinary high rate of 14.70%. Although this one can hardly draw conclusions from just 34 wines, this does suggest that the Sancerrois ought to be considering whether their wines wouldn't be better under screwcap. They might also show greater vibrancy.
June in Touraine – not as bad as it seemed
Tuesday, 29 June 2010
Sancerre: absence of screwcaps
Mark Robertson: brief report on flowering
Mark Robertson is the owner of Clos Chossay, its chief viticulturalist and regisseur.
Le Petit Manoir, St Melaine-sur-l'Aubance – a recommendation
Monday, 28 June 2010
2009 white Sancerre@Decanter
Sunday, 27 June 2010
Two 2008 reds: Serge Laloue and Henry Pellé
Two reds (Pinot Noir) from the Central Vineyards tasting I did at the beginning of June: both from the 2008 vintage with one coming from Sancerre and the other from Menetou-Salon. The first was the medium weight Sancerre Rouge from Domaine Serge Laloue with bright attractive red fruits and red to drink now and probably best drunk young. The fruit comes from vines around 25 years old with a yield of just over 40 hl/ha. 50% is aged in 600 litre barrels and 50% in vat.
The second, Les Cris, was from Domaine Henry Pellé and underlines this estate's claim to be considered the best estate of Menetou-Salon. The 2008 Les Cris has more concentration and complexity than the Laloue and, although it is enjoyable to drink now, will surely be better in two or three years time. Domaine Pellé now has 40 hectares and makes four reds: a straight Menetou-Salon, a Menetou-Salon Morogues (the commune where the domaine is based). Les Cris and, in 2000 and 2004, Z Coeur du Cris. Both Les Cris and Z Coeur du Cris are aged in barrel.
Saturday, 26 June 2010
A quarto of Chinons
A very enjoyable lunch last week with Jean-Ernest and Liliane Sauvion at their lovely Western Touraine retreat, we drank a quarto of Chinons – one from 2007 and three from the 2005 vintage. A very enjoyable bottle of Château de Targe, Saumur Mousseux (70% de Chenin Blanc, 30% de Cabernet Franc) as an apéritif to prepare our palates.
Friday, 25 June 2010
Civray-en-Touraine: Feux-de-Saint-Jean dans la rue
La réclame invite les clients à se rendre compte de l'utilité essentielle de ses produits.
Un magasin comme on en fait plus, avec un choix considérable à faire pâlir le service marketing de n'importe quelle multinationale, vous est ouvert.
La qualité supérieure des articles loufoques, dingues et finalement pas tant que cela, de la « Quincaillerie Parpassanton », témoignent de sa capacité à satisfaire les demandes, des plus simples aux plus extrêmes. Mer, campagne, montagne, jungle, désert, volcan, lune, tout est prévu pour chacune de vos destinations.
Objets assez inénarrables qui ne manqueront pas de vous surprendre et vous enthousiasmer.
On trouve tout chez les Parpassanton, même ce que d'aucuns auraient imaginé.
Un vrai bol d'air dans le consumérisme ambiant.
Spectacle tout public et gratuit.
Attention, comme le spectacle démarre tôt en fin d'après-midi (à partir de 18 h), ne ratez pas le début !
Culled from La Nouvelle République
Thursday, 24 June 2010
Philippe Germain@The RSJ Restaurant 22nd June
This 2007 is showing very well at the moment with lovely pure citric fruit, especially grapefruit – all the precision and purity that is typical of the 2007 vintage.
2009 Chenin Blanc, Anjou Blanc
Naturally still youthful with the weight you would expect of 2009 with floral and grapefruit notes. Closed with a screwcap.
2008 Les Terrasses, Anjou Blanc
Philippe's top dry white from vines on terraces created by Gaston Lenôtre in the early 1990s. Very clean with brilliant minerality.
Served with goats cheese and asparagus salad with crouton
Philippe is happy to admit that the schisteous terroir of La Roulerie is not ideally suited to making red wine. Indeed he would rather concentrate on the whites but his brother, Thierry of Domaine des Roches Neuves, urges him to continue to make red as well. In truth the Roulerie reds are pleasant and well made but they are ones to drink young, enjoy young and not to be taken particularly seriously.
2009 Cabernet Franc, Anjou Rouge 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, Anjou Rouge
2008 Cabernet Franc, Anjou Rouge
Served with roast rib eye beef with new potatoes, summer vegetables and red wine sauce
1990 Cuvée Louis, Coteaux du Layon Chaume, Château de la Roulerie,
The definite star of the evening a lovely sweet wine made by Dominique Jadeau – the last vintage he made before he sold Roulerie to Lenôtre. Medium gold – the 1990s took on colour very early – with rich dried apricot and peachy fruit and the typical Loire acidity that stops these rich wines being cloying. Very long flavour too. Really a wine to enjoy by itself instead of a dessert or after the end of the meal.
Served with apple meringue pie with pecan ice cream
Wednesday, 23 June 2010
29 August: la Forêt des Livres, Chanceaux-près-Loches
'29 août 2010
De nombreuses animations sont prévues durant la journée : remises de prix littéraires, dédicaces, dégustation de vins de Touraine auprès de nombreuses personnalités : Charlotte Gainsbourg, Charles Aznavour, Michelle Morgan... les meilleures plumes françaises seront au rendez-vous !
Modalités d'accès : Entrée libre le dimanche
Tél : 02 47 91 63 76
Tuesday, 22 June 2010
Postings on the Clos Roche Blanche vertical + wind farm protest in Anjou
A couple of postings here about the Clos Roche Blanche tasting:
Bertrand Celce's take on his wine terroirs on the day
News of a protest against wind machine in Anjou
(from the blog of La Grande Maison)
That’s a protest in French. You might say it was a little too late after all the damn things have already been installed. But an email from an eager friend called us in to help swell the troops. After all imagine how you would feel if four of these 120m tall things had been installed above your roof!
There it is - the dreaded wind turbine or eolienne as they are known in France. A large lump of rotating metal that can be seen for 10’s of kilometers around embedded in an even larger lump of concrete. Metal that is slowly eating into the countryside under the ‘green guise’. Soon Anjou will be full of them if we don’t watch out. The promoters have plans for many more wind farms but the problem is there are only small groups in any commune prepared to fight against them.
Monday, 21 June 2010
New reports from Richard Kelley MW
Sunday, 20 June 2010
Le Lièvre Gourmand a 'franchi le pas'
Last night was the first opportunity we had had to eat at Le Lièvre Gourmand since it skipped from the south of the Loire at Vailly-sur-Souldre to just onto the north side of the river on the Quai Chatelet in Orléans.
I'm delighted to report that nothing has been lost in the move – William Page's cooking remains as delicious and inventive as before. You choose three (45€) or four courses (55€) from seven choices plus dessert or cheese. Last night's were: Radis, Tourteau, Morue, Bar, Poulet Fermier, Lapin and Ris de Veau.
Saturday, 19 June 2010
Cold, wet spell continues
Clos Roche Blanche: my red stars of the vertical: Gamay
Friday, 18 June 2010
"Don't say anything!"
I didn't need to add anything to the headline in La Nouvelle République, the local paper. Still if Algeria beat England tonight ...
Thursday, 17 June 2010
Moules frites@Epeigné (26.6.2010) and some other news
Clos Roche Blanche: my white stars of the vertical
Wednesday, 16 June 2010
Clos Roche Blanche – une grande dégustation verticale
The demi-secs are being held back for the moment, so it was straight onto the moelleux starting with the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu moelleux (15.50€)with 53 grams of residual sugar showing some quite rich, honey character with good length of flavour. Charming to drink at the moment. (53rs, 12.73% alc, 5.19ac). Next the slightly richer 2009 Le Mont moelleux (15.50€) – fuller and more weighty on the palate with hints of peach but a little disjointed at the moment. Ultimately I think this will prove to be the more interesting wine. (57.8 rs, 12.42% alc, 5.19ac).
To come the 1er Tries – Le Mont and Clos du Bourg.
Tuesday, 15 June 2010
Top Touraine producer but discreet..
Moulin de Bléré - star of la Poste
Les Cèpes in June – not a good sign for the vines
Monday, 14 June 2010
2000 Brézé Saumur Blanc Frères Foucault + 2003 Les Arboises Guiberteau
Xavier Fortin, La Promenade's sommelier, had mentioned when we arrived that there would be a group of producers from the Loire and elsewhere in for lunch. Among those he mentioned was Romain Guiberteau. On several occasions I have tasted the Guiberteau wines at the Salon des Vins de Loire but never yet got round to visiting them nor drinking one of their wines. When I saw this 2003 on the list I decided this was the moment. It proved to be fortunate as this was the last bottle on the list and it turned out to be a lovely opulent 2003 – rich and softly textured black fruits.
Who said that the 2003s would rapidly fall apart?!
World cup fever strikes Epeigné's Le Lézard Vert
Sunday, 13 June 2010
A Sunday Promenade: Le Petit and Le Grand Pressigny
See a posting here on a previous lunch@La Promenade and one from Jacqueline Friedrich.
After lunch I took a few photos around the village of Le Petit Pressigny and then we headed off for a quick look at Le Petit's grown-up brother Le Grand Pressigny and its museum of pre-history.
Le Grand Pressigny