Awards and citations:


1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Showing posts with label Jérôme Billard. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jérôme Billard. Show all posts

Wednesday, 2 May 2018

Has the Loire escaped spring frosts in 2018?

Anit-frost pots out in the Regional de Cosne 
and du Charitois

While hoping that I am not speaking too soon but it looks as though the Loire has escaped any serious damage from Spring frosts in 2018. Last night and the night before were rather nerve jangling as temperatures dipped. 

However, Laura Semeria of Domaine de Montcy reported that there hadn't been any frost in her domaine in Cheverny, which is prone to frost and where the forecast for Tuesday/Wednesday showed -1˚C. In Ligre (AOP Chinon) Jérôme Billard reported that they had to light to the anti-frost candles at 4am this morning and that they proved effective. 

Initially this coming night – Wednesday/Thursday – was forecast to be tricky but during today the temperatures forecast have risen so the frost risk appears to have gone away with no low temperatures forecast for the coming 10 days or so. 

Even so – we should continue to keep fingers crossed for a while.....      

Wednesday, 7 March 2018

2017 Le temps des cerises, Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie

2017 Le temps des cerises, Chinon, 
Domaine de la Noblaie


Le temps des cerises (100% Cabernet Franc) is Domaine de la Noblaie's cuvée printemps (Spring wine). These Spring cuvées should be all about attractive, youthful fruit with light, soft tannins – ready to drink now to celebrate the passing of winter and the arrival of spring.

The 2017 Le temps des cerises is a very good example of a cuvée printemps with its delicious, lightly crunchy pure fruit and good balance of fruit and freshness in the finish. This is a wine to share and enjoy with friends – it is all too likely that the contents will disappear remarkably quickly.....! Another example of Jérôme Billard's wine-making skills.        

Tuesday, 11 April 2017

Off on an adventure: Day 30 – Jérôme Billard


Jérôme Billard, Domaine de la Noblaie, Chinon



As I suspect there will be limited time to post on Jim's Loire while we are away – there are posts prepared in advance that feature pics of Loire producers and may be from elsewhere plus some recently enjoyed bottles. 


Wednesday, 25 January 2017

A couple of Loire bottles: Chinon Blanc (Noblaie) + Saumur-Champigny (Bonnelière)



This is the basic tank fermented 2015 Chinon Blanc from Jérôme Billard at the Domaine de la Noblaie.  It is beautifully balanced with the weight of ripe fruit that one associates with the 2015 vintage along with very clean and precise acidity. This cuvée would I'm sure age well but it will be hard to resist opening other bottles! Jérôme also makes another Chinon Blanc – La Part des Anges, which is fermented in wood and matured for longer before being bottled and released onto the market.
 



85/15 is a limited Saumur-Champigny cuvée from Anthony and Cédric Bonneau of Domaine de la Bonnelière. It is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Saumur-Champigny's habitual variety, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon rarely used here and, if it is, only 15% is permitted. The 2014 85/15 has considerable concentration but needs more time to show its best, especially with the tannins associated with Cabernet Sauvignon.
 

Thursday, 3 November 2016

Domaine de la Noblaie's delicious 2015 Goutte de Rosé


Yesterday evening I opted for a glass or two of Jérôme Billard's very attractive 2015 Goutte de Rosé Chinon made from 100% Cabernet Franc. For his rosé Jérôme uses the vines at the bottom of the slope that usually don't ripen sufficiently to make good red wine. It is good practice to decide which parcels will be used to make rosé.

Goutte de Rosé is conveniently closed with a screwcap. The 2015 has an attractive weight of fruit and delicate acidity. It might well have gone well with the prawns that I intended to cook last night. However, not long after embarking on the second glass the door bell went – our downstairs neighbour back from her travels and suffering from a cold. 

Clearly a good time to see if a glass or so would sort out her cold. I haven't yet heard whether Goutte proved to be a successful remedy but we comfortably polished off Jérôme's rosé while catching up on respective travels as well as the lunacy of Brexit. 

I'm sure she will have been as delighted as I am by the UK's High Court ruling, correctly, that triggering Article 50 to start negotiations for exiting the EU will have to be put before, and passed by, Parliament rather than being left to Teresa May's whim.     


Sunday, 16 October 2016

Petit Thouars + Domaine de la Noblaie – two samples to try

 Château Petit Thouars, AC Touraine 

Sébastien du Petit Thouars 
and wine-maker Michel Pinard

I dropped into see Sebastien on Friday to catch up on where they were with the 2016 harvest. They were fortunate that they weren't hit by the late April frost. Sebastien told me that they would pick their Chenin Blanc tomorrow (Saturday) and then the Cabernet Franc next week. Currently their Chenin was at 13% potential and 6 acidity, while the Cabernet Franc was at 12.5% and 5 acidity. 

Sébastien kindly gave me a bottle of their 2015 Touraine Chenin Blanc – next year this can be labelled as Chinon Blanc as from the 2016 the Chinon appellation has been expanded to the south west. There is, however, a doubt for if Thouars 2016 has a similar quantity of residual sugar in it to the 2015 (over 20 grams) it won't meet the regulations for Chinon Blanc, which specify a maximum of 6 grams of residual sugar. 

Anyway the 2015 is very attractive – richly textured but with enough acidity not to make the wine cloying. It works as an apero but would I think be better with a rich paté/foie gras, blue cheese but also with pork and a rich sauce or pheasant à la Normande – cooked in apple and cream – or similar.  

Jérôme Billard, Domaine de la Noblaie 

At the Domaine de la Noblaie in Ligré (AC Chinon) we were given a bottle of 2008 Pierre de la Tuf – the domaine's special cuvée that is made in a limestone vat. The 2008 is delicious to drink at the moment – slightly herbal reflecting the relatively cool 2008 vintage but now with very soft and integrated tannins.   

Friday, 8 July 2016

Update from Sancerre (Karine Crochet – Domaine François Crochet) and Chinon (Jérôme Billard – Domaine de la Noblaie)

Jérôme Billard @RSJ in very smart shirt 
– a birthday present



I phoned Karine Crochet (Domaine François Crochet in Bué) last week and she updated me on how the vines are doing at the beginning of July.  

"We are getting towards the end of the flowering. The weather hasn't been ideal and François says there is quite a lot coulure – flowers not setting properly. Mildew is a big threat this year and being in the middle of converting to organic viticulture this is challenging. 

In Sancerre we weren't affected seriously by the late April frosts. Unfortunately our friends Jean Teiller in Menetou-Salon were badly affected by the frost and they expect to only make between 5-10 hectolitres per hectare in 2016."

••  

Last Monday (4th July) I had dinner with Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie) and Tom King at the RSJ Restaurant. Jérôme underlined how difficult 2016 is proving to be with mildew a real threat now – the latest is mildew on the grapes rather than just the leaves. "Flowering has now finished – it ended around 27th June. With the first flowers appearing on 11th June but really starting full on 15th June. Flowering is about a week later than the average. Flowering has been over a quite extended period so there will be some variable ripening."
         

Sunday, 1 May 2016

Loire suffers serious and widespread frost damage on 27th April

La nature est parfois difficile avec ceux qui pour autant l'aime encore.
Exemple confirmée à La Charpenterie.
Photo by 
Near La Chapelle-sur-Loire 
(Photo taken from a post by Sabrina Cyprien Caslot-Bourdin.
I hope my use of her very sad photo will be acceptable.) 


This is a further round up of news of the serious frost during the night of Tuesday 26th and Wednesday 27th April. A shorter version was published in decanter.com on Friday. 

Parts of the Loire were very severely hit by frost during the night of Tuesday 26th and Wednesday 27th.  Temperatures in a few places fell as low as – 6˚C.

As in April 1991 a lethal combination of damp ground from recent rain, clear overnight skies, very low temperatures in the latter part of the night followed by bright early morning sunshine has virtually destroyed the 2016 vintage in some sectors of the Loire.

Although it is too early to know the full extent of the damage some parts of the Loire have been very badly hit. The worst hit areas appear to be Bourgueil, Montlouis, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, Azay le Rideau and Touraine Noble. The important communes of Cravant-les-Coteaux and Panzoult in AOP Chinon are reported also badly affected. 
 
Couly Dutheil, whose vines are mostly in the more western part of the Chinon appellation, reports that 20 hectares of their 90 are affected. In Ligré Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie) finds that 20% of his vines have been affected by the frost. Mainly those less good parcels parcels that Jérôme reserves for his rosé. Here the damage is as high as 60%, while in his best parcels of Cabernet Franc for his reds only 10% of the vines appear to have been hit.   

Guillaume Lapaque, director of FAV37*, told Decanter: “Noble Joué has lost 94% of this harvest, 70% in Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and 50% in Chinon. Overall Appellation Touraine has been much less affected.”

Sabine Corsin, Syndicat de Montlouis reported a 90% loss in Saint-Martin-le-Beau with 50% loss in the appellation’s other two communes. Losses in Vouvray are reported to be less overall and more variable. 

Jacky Blot (Domaine de la Taille aux Loups – Montlouis, Vouvray) expects to make 25% of normal if all goes well from here. In contrast the outlook is more optimistic for his Domaine de la Butte (Bourgueil). Here the loss is 20% essentially Pied de la Butte on the flatter ground. The rest of the vines on the steep slope are intact.      

In Saumur-Champigny the communes of Chacé, Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg and Varrains have been badly hit. Closer to the Loire damage is much less. “We have lost 10%,” said Florence Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve).  

“We have been very badly hit in our vineyards which are close to the River Layon,” said Emmanuel Ogereau (Domaine Ogereau, Anjou). However, we have no damage in Savennières where our vines are on high ground.”

The picture in the Pays Nantais appears to be very variable. Domaine Luneau-Papin (Muscadet) has suffered damage in some parcels, while others haven’t been touched.

“A third of my vines have been badly hit with up to 100% loss in some parcels, one third slightly affected and one third not touched at all,” said Vincent Caillé, Domaine Faye d’Homme (Muscadet). However, fans of Vincent and Christelle Guibert's Terre d'Gneiss will be relieved that this boutique parcel was spared. 

In the Central Loire Vineyards Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre, reports that Menetou-Salon, Pouilly-Fumé, Quincy and Reuilly have all been hit to a greater of lesser degree. Sancerre, in contrast, has largely escaped. However, Roumet cautions that things will be clearer next week. 

Although this April frost may not be as extensive as that of 1991, wine stocks would have been much higher after the very good and generous 1990 vintage. Now stocks are low after four small to below average vintages. On top of that you have to factor in the current annual loss from esca, which was not a factor back in 1991. Esca is not only one of the reasons why yields are lower than expected but there is also the constant cost of replacing dead vines. 

Negotiations with government and banks to help to see badly hit producers through this crisis will start next week. 





Friday, 22 January 2016

The Famous Five @the Sydneys' Loire tasting @ The Oyster Shed, London


Yesterday was Charles Sydney's annual Loire tasting at a new and interesting venue – The Oyster Shed near Cannon Street – with interesting view over and along the Thames and good natural light. 

As usual there were a few producers in attendance for Philippa and Charles' tasting: a Famous Five for 2016 – Emmanuelle Mellot, Jérôme Billard, Jean-Philippe Blot, Jérôme Choblet and Vincent Lieubeau.  








 

 



Wednesday, 30 September 2015

#2015Loire – Chinon's biggest players prefer to wait

 Bunches of Cabernet Franc near Panzoult (AC Chinon)


Chinon's two biggest players – Baudry-Dutour and Couly-Dutheil – are in no rush to harvest their reds. At Baudry-Dutour their IGT Sauvignon from 11 hectares at Ligré is picked as is some of the Chenin Blanc for the Chinon Blanc and sparkling while Cabernet Franc for the rosé was picked on 21st September. 

"We are not yet ready for the reds," said Jean-Martin Dutour. "We will start on the classic reds from next Monday (4th October) but our top reds from Saint Louans and La Grille won't be started until around 12th October."  

"Yields are a bit higher than last year," Christophe Baudry explained, "probably around 45hl/ha compared to 40hl/ha last year but certainly not the maximum allowed.  

The situation at Couly-Dutheil is very similar. "We have picked some of the Chenin," said Jacques Couly but are waiting until next week to start on the reds and rosés. We expect full maturity around 10th-12th October with yields a little up on last year. 

Across the Vienne at Ligré Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie) is waiting for the reds to ripen. "We picked some of the Chenin – those grapes that were fragile and starting to rot – on 21st September and started on the rosé yesterday. 

In contrast Matthieu Baudry (Domaine Bernard Baudry, Cravant-les-Coteaux) is in full harvest mode and expects to finish this week. "We started picking Cabernet Franc on 23rd September, having picked the Chenin on 21st and 22nd. When we started the potential alcohol in the Cabernet Franc was 11.5 to 12 now it is between 12-13. We don't want the grape sugars to get too concentrated. It is important to keep the freshness of the Loire and this North East wind threatens to shrivel (flétri) the grapes.  

Interesting to see the contrast in picking dates both within Chinon and in comparison to vineyards – Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil north of the Loire.   


Jean-Martin Dutour (Baudry-Dutour) 
and President of the Chinon producers

Jacques Couly (Couly-Dutheil)
Arnaud Couly (Couly-Dutheil) 

Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie)

Thursday, 27 August 2015

2012 Pierre de Tuf, Chinon, Domaine de la Nobaie


2012 Pierre de Tuf, Chinon, Domaine de Noblaie 

I'm always in impressed with Jérôme Billard's Chinons, so it was good to try his 2012 Pierre de Tuf. This is Domaine de la Noblaie's special cuvée, which is vinified in a small vat carved out of limestone – hence the name. 

The 2012 is still youthfully purple and is impressive for a difficult vintage. It has considerable concentration of black fruits but is still quite tight and ideally needs another two to four years in bottle.  
 
£12.95 from The Wine Society. 


The Pierre de Tuf vat 

Friday, 15 November 2013

Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Nobalie)@RSJ - 11.11.2013


Jérôme Billard@RSJ Restaurant on Monday 11.11.13


Making a flying visit (by train) to London Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie) came over specially to give a tasting at the RSJ Restaurant on Monday 11th. Although the picking has now finished, the vats in the estate's new winery are in full fermentation, so it was great that Jérôme made it over at a very stressful time.  

He showed the following wines from the domaine:

2010 Mon Ange Touraime Mousseux Rosé 
(served as the apéro) 

2010 Chinon Blanc – La Part des Anges
One of the favourite wines of the evening – limited production Jérôme now moving onto 2011 

2012 Chinon Blanc
Worked well with the first course: 
hot smoked salmon, cucumber, Keta caviar and hollandaise

Reds: 

2010 Les Chiens Chiens 
From vines planted on clay

2010 Les Blancs Manteaux
 From vines planted on clay/limestone.
Although vinified and matured in the same way, these two reds are quite different. Les Chiens Chiens is the lighter cuvée and unlikley to last as long as Les Blancs Manteaux, which is a more structured, powerful wine

2000 Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie
Made by François Billard, Jérôme's father 
Now retired François taught oenology at the wine school in Montreuil-Bellay 
and made Noblaie's wine in his spare time.
Although the vintage here was less favourable than in Bordeaux, 
the 2000 showed well with attractive, evolved brambly fruit   
 
2012 Domaine de la Noblaie
The straight domaine red with attractive juicy, red fruits.
Not a wine to analyse but rather one to enjoy with friends.
Has sufficient acidity to keep the palate fresh.
Was served with slow cooked duck, mashed potato, 
Heritage carrots, autumn greens and game jus 






Tuesday, 22 October 2013

2013 Chinon has good colour@Jourdan & Pichard + @Noblaie

2013 Chinon in creation

Yesterday we had a quick stop at Jourdan & Pichard (Cravant-les-Coteaux, Chinon) and were impressed by the colour of their 2013 Chinon, which is busy fermenting. It is a small vintage – they have made 30 hl/ha – because of hail and problems during flowering resulting in losses through coulure and millerandange, but there should be some attractive wines made.   

Philippe Pichard checking a tank

New storage facility 

Domaine de la Noblaie, Ligré 

 Bunch of 2013 Cabernet Franc@Noblaie

At Domaine de la Noblaie we saw Jérôme and his father, François. Picking for the whites and rosés was on Thursday and Friday. They started to tackle the reds on Monday. They are now keen to get the grapes in as quickly as possible as rot is beginning to arrive. Normally everything is picked by hand but this year Jérôme has borrowed a picking machine to speed things up. The grapes are coming in at between 11˚ and 11.6˚ – the Cabernet picked that morning for the red. As elsewhere this will be a short vintage with a considerably reduced yield.

François Billard cleaning up in the new chai

Checking the top of a tank

Jérôme Billard – a busy few days in prospect

Logroño (Rioja)@night 

Now about to head south to Sauternes for a couple of nights before continuing to Logroño for the 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference.