2017 harvest in Pays Nantais – first impressions

 Melon de Bourgogne @Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin 

Still a little green – will be picked later this week 

or early next week 

We arrived in the Pays Nantais this morning after a night in a cheap hotel close to Saumur. It is clear that many producers were badly hit this year by the frosts at end of April. Unfortunately April 2016 also saw bad frosts – again at the end of April. Ironically 2017 is very promising in terms of quality – such a pity that the frost was so damaging. 

Today we visited Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin, Fred Niger (both in Le Landreau) and the Lieubeau family in Château-Thébaud. Fred is undoubtedly the worst hit as he has lost 98% of the crop – not funny as he lost 90% in 2016 and 85% in 2012. Fortunately he is part of 11 organic vignerons across France who help each other out by selling grapes/must when frost or hail strikes. Nevertheless it is very far from easy – very dispiriting when you get another vintage destroyed by frost over night.

For Pierre-Marie and Marie Luneau only their Butte de la Roche is yielding a normal harvest, while the Lieubeau family has a 40% loss from their 70 hectares.  

Understandably there are now projects underway to install frost protection systems. Clearly producers cannot survive such losses for very long.  

Marie Luneau, CRM and Eric Narioo (Les Caves de Pyrene) 

as well as wine @Vino di Anna 

on Mount Etna (Sicily)

Pierre-Marie and Marie Luneau (Domaine Luneau-Papin)

 Pierre Luneau with the new Stockinger wooden vats

 Monique Luneau – le grand chef with 

vegetables from the garden

 In the cellar of Fred Niger van Amphore 

Three of the Lieubeau family, who work on the domaine 

Right to left – Chantal, Marie her daughter 

and Vincent, her younger son

 Local priest to give blessing? 

With François Lieubeau, Vincent's elder brother

The local priests did bless the vignoble 

but unfortunately it was in late May/earlyJune.

In 2018 it will need to be in late March 

before the threat of April frosts

Lieubeau – Melon for their 2017 Cru Château-Thébaud

Arrival of the Lieubeau's 1st load of Gros Plant 

Le Ban des Vendanges was issued today.

Playing around with the ISO speeds

 

@ 20000 ISO

 

@ H2 – 102,400 ISO

Muscadet astounds – some good Loire news to help balance the frosts

 

June 2017 issue of Decanter: Muscadet is back

Back in February 2017 Decanter magazine held a panel tasting of Muscadet with extended lees aging. I was one of the trio of tasters. The other two were Chris Kissack (The Wine Doctor) and Ben Llewelyn (Carte Blanche). It was easily the most impressive Decanter panel tasting that I have ever been to as the depth of quality was remarkable. There were 11 wines judged to be Outstanding with three of these scored as Exceptional and a further 63 wine Highly Recommended. Few of these wines cost more than £20 and many £15 or under, so offering remarkable quality.

2007 Excelsior, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Domaine Pierre Luneau Papin was the top wine with an aggregate score of 99 points.

Although all three of us on the panel are fans of good Muscadet, we were, however, taken aback by the number of excellent wines that we tasted from the around 110 samples submitted. These extended lees aging Muscadets provide a different expression of Muscadet – more complex and with a great depth of flavour and are great value.

  

Trio of Loires recently enjoyed

 2003 Moelleux Vouvray Domaine de la Taille aux Loups 

Rich honeyed concentration from the heatwave year, this sweet Vouvray from Domaine aux Taille aux Loups worked well as an apéro – just a glass or so – but also with pheasant cooked in cream and apple and finished with a little Calvados and some more cream. Long finish but not especially complex, although certainly would have aged for decades if I hadn't pulled the cork.  

 2013 Pierre de la Grange Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, Domaine Pierre Luneau Papin

Attractive, fresh, lemony, saline young Muscadet from Domaine Pierre Luneau Papin. This spends seven months on its lees before bottling. We enjoyed this with simply fried halibut steaks. It also worked well as a contrast with a starter of scallops and black pudding also a good, refreshing apéro. I'm sure would have been perfect with shellfish including oysters.     

 Secret des Vignes 2012 Saumur Champigny, Ackerman 

Secret des Vignes 2012 Saumur Champigny (11.90€) is the first of three samples of the Secret des Vignes sent to me from Ackerman. 2012 is not the easiest Loire vintage and while this shows some of the characteristic acidity of 2012 it has impressive concentration of black fruits. Still youthful though drinkable now it would benefit by being left for another year or two. The back label suggests this Champigny could age for 5-10 years, which given its concentration (for the year) is a fair estimate. Also in this series is a Saumur Blanc and a Coteaux du Saumur, which I will be trying over the next few days. The 2012 Saumur Champigny was a promising start.