2011 Loire vintage: prospects in Pouilly-Fumé

2011 Sauvignon Blanc@Tracy

As well as having a quick look at some Sancerre vineyards on Monday we also crossed over the Loire into Burgundy to have a look at Pouilly-Fumé. Again as in Sancerre there is some rot but from what I saw (a rapis impression) it is not too serious assuming that the weather remains dry and sunny with fairly low humidity. If there is rain, especially with high humidity and little wind, then the situation could turn nasty. Fingers crossed it won't.

Tracy: touch of rot on a bunch

We had time to have a look at the vines close to Château de Tracy, on the road out of Bois Gibault and around Château de Nozet (Ladoucette). 

2011 Sauvignon Blanc near Château de Nozet (above and below)

Two 2008 Pouilly-Fumés: de Ladoucette and Clos des Chaudoux

 

2008  Pouilly-Fumé, de Ladoucette

Yesterday evening we tried a couple of 2008 Pouilly-Fumés. We started with the ripe, soft 2008 de Ladoucette, which has some grassy aromas. Although pleasant enough it is rather bland – lacking complexity and length. 

2008 Clos des Chaudoux, Pouilly-Fumé

It was probably unfair on the Ladoucette, which is a cuvée with a substantial production, to taste and drink it alongside this single vineyard wine from Serge Dagueneau et Filles. Had I had a bottle a fairer comparison might have been with the Ladoucette prestige cuvée Baron L.

The Clos des Chaudoux comes from 45 year old vines planted on the 1.5 hectare parcel called Pentes de Chaudoux (slopes of Chaudoux). After 10-12 hours of skin contact it is vinified in stainless steel and then spends 16-18 months on its fine lees before bottling.

The 2008 Chaudoux is richer, more vibrant with some complex citric aromas and flavours. Although it has 13% alcohol, the wine has a freshness in the finish. With its more powerful flavours this was a better match with our cod and tuna fishcakes than the Ladoucette.

As one might expect the Clos du Chaudoux is more expensive: a check on wine-searcher shows that the Ladoucette sells for around 18€ and the Chaudoux (2007 vintage) for 23€. I think the Chaudoux is worth the extra 5€ if you are looking for a Pouilly-Fumé with character.