Some more Loire dates: Portes Ouvertes chez Pierre-Henri Gadais, Noblaie + Marché de Noël à Pouilly-sur-Loire

Les Trois Jeunes Vignerons 

– Pierre-Henri, Michel et Christophe Gadais

Portes ouvertes at Pierre-Henri Gadais' Domaine de la Combe: Saturday 1st December and Sunday 2nd December. 

Details of Domaine de la Combe here and here. 

•••

Domaine de la Noblaie, Ligré (Appellation Chinon):
Portes Ouvertes: Saturday 1st and Sunday 2nd December  

 
Details here:

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Marché de Noël at La Tour de Pouilly – Sunday 9th December

Has the Loire escaped spring frosts in 2018?

Anit-frost pots out in the Regional de Cosne 

and du Charitois

While hoping that I am not speaking too soon but it looks as though the Loire has escaped any serious damage from Spring frosts in 2018. Last night and the night before were rather nerve jangling as temperatures dipped. 

However, Laura Semeria of Domaine de Montcy reported that there hadn't been any frost in her domaine in Cheverny, which is prone to frost and where the forecast for Tuesday/Wednesday showed -1˚C. In Ligre (AOP Chinon) Jérôme Billard reported that they had to light to the anti-frost candles at 4am this morning and that they proved effective. 

Initially this coming night – Wednesday/Thursday – was forecast to be tricky but during today the temperatures forecast have risen so the frost risk appears to have gone away with no low temperatures forecast for the coming 10 days or so. 

Even so – we should continue to keep fingers crossed for a while.....      

2012 Pierre de Tuf, Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie

 2012 Pierre de Tuf, Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie 

Last night we opened a bottle of the 2012 Pierre de Tuf, Chinon from Domaine de la Noblaie in Ligré. It is interesting to compare the 2012 with the 2014 Pierre de Tuf, which has just been selected as one of Decanter's best wines of the year.

2012 was quite a difficult vintage following frost and widespread mildew along with a very wet October. Although the Cabernet Franc reds of 2012 are better than 2013, there is still not the ripeness and balance that you find in the 2014s. The 2012s have quite marked acidity in the finish – probably limiting their appeal to amateurs of Loire reds. 2014 vintage produced wines with a lovely balance, although the vintage was saved by a wonderfully warm autumn following a disappointing summer. 

The 2012 certainly needs food to soften its appeal and to mask the acidity. So an enjoyable bottle but not at the same level as 2014 or 2015. There are some that claim 2012 is a good vintage for Loire reds – I have yet to be convinced. 

Loire reds: two fine 2010s – Bourgueil and Chinon

Yesterday evening we enjoyed a soirée de la modération. The main course was slow roasted lamb with a herb, anchovy, garlic and mustard crust. To accompany the lamb we looked at two 2010s.

The first was the well concentrated Cuvée Prestige from Lamé Delisle Boucard in Ingrandes de Touraine (AC Bourgueil) . Although it showed well I think it is still a little tight in the finish and could well benefit from a few more years in bottle. The second Pierre de Tuf from Domaine de la Noblaie in Ligré (AC Chinon). This is showing very well at the moment with soft, attractive fruit and well integrated structure. It will doubtless continue to impress for a number of years but it is drinking very well at the moment.
     

Two fine Loire wines: Domaine de la Noblaie + Domaine Michel Redde

 1996 Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie

2014 Pouilly-Fumé, La Moynerie, Domaine Michel Redde

Here are two wines that we have very recently enjoyed. Firstly the 1996 Chinon from Domaine de la Noblaie in Ligré. I had pulled out the 1996 as we were due to entertain last night but our guest had to pull out late yesterday afternoon due to illness. However, as I had already pulled the cork on the 1996 just to check if it was OK, we decided that we should drink it even though I had replaced the cork as I didn't want to decant it too early.  

We drank the 1996 with pot roasted pork and the wine was a real treat – obviously our guest missed out! The 1996 had some intriguing notes of balsamic vinegar which added to its complexity. 

Equally the 2014 La Moynerie, Pouilly-Fumé from Domaine Michel Redde was a treat with plenty of ripe concentration and seductive texture, while allied to the balance of acidity, which is a hallmark of the 2014 vintage.     

A couple of Loire bottles: Chinon Blanc (Noblaie) + Saumur-Champigny (Bonnelière)

This is the basic tank fermented 2015 Chinon Blanc from Jérôme Billard at the Domaine de la Noblaie.  It is beautifully balanced with the weight of ripe fruit that one associates with the 2015 vintage along with very clean and precise acidity. This cuvée would I'm sure age well but it will be hard to resist opening other bottles! Jérôme also makes another Chinon Blanc – La Part des Anges, which is fermented in wood and matured for longer before being bottled and released onto the market.

 

85/15 is a limited Saumur-Champigny cuvée from Anthony and Cédric Bonneau of Domaine de la Bonnelière. It is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Saumur-Champigny's habitual variety, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon rarely used here and, if it is, only 15% is permitted. The 2014 85/15 has considerable concentration but needs more time to show its best, especially with the tannins associated with Cabernet Sauvignon.
 

Neighbourhood Christmas soirée de la modération

2015 Goutte de Rosé, Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie

Last Sunday we had a pre-Christmas celebration meal with some of our neighbours. Opting out of fizz, we chose to kick off with Jérôme Billard's excellent 2015 Goutte de Rosé (100% Cabernet Franc) – a fine combination of fruit texture and freshness. One important reason that Jérôme's Rosé is so good is that he sets aside specific sectors of vines for his rosé – young vines and vines on lower slopes where the fruit often will not be quite ripe enough to make good red Chinon.

12 YO Amontillado, Sainsbury's Taste the Difference  

From Emilio Lustau

(above and below)

With mushroom soup, made from a variety of different mushrooms and vaguely following an Elizabeth David recipe which uses bread as a thickener, we served some 12 YO Amontillado Taste the Difference from Emilio Lustau. 

2010 Cuvée Prestige, Bourgueil, Lamé Delisle Boucard  

(above and below)

Main course was slow roasted leg of lamb – sourced from the excellent Billings in Sydenham's High Street. Using a herb, mustard, anchovy, garlic crust with a dash soy sauce the lamb was roasted for a little over three hours. The meat remained succulent and wonderfully tendered.

2010 Cuvée Prestige Bourgueil from Lamé Delisle Boucard has proved to be fatally delicious – so delicious that supplies are fast running out. 2010 is a fine red vintage Loire Cabernet Franc and this was a fine match with the gently roasted lamb. Will be sending Lamé an SOS for more supplies!

We followed that with the impressively softly structured 2013 Syrah made by John Hancock of Trinity Hill in Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand. More evidence that Syrah is well adapted to Hawkes Bay. This was one of a selection of New Zealand wines from The Wine Society.   

John Hancock, Trinity Hill

2012 Majorum, Pouilly-Fumé, Michel Redde et Fils

With a small selection of UK cheeses we offer a choice of continuing with the Trinity Hill Syrah or changing colour and opting for the 2012 Majorum, Pouilly-Fumé from Michel Redde et Fils. One of our guests, who was dubious about white wine with cheese, was converting on trying this well balanced and mineral 2012 Majorum with some raw milk Caerphilly and Montgomery Cheddar.    

 
1967 Château Fayau, Cadillac  

With CRM's fine bread pudding we thought it was time and appropriate to try this 1967 Château Fayau AC Cadillac – a sweet wine appellation on the north bank of the Garonne across from Barsac-Sauternes. We must have bought this some time in the late 1970s or early 1980s – probably in London though it might have been in France. Mid to deep gold colour, this has delicate, attractive sweetness with some evolution but showing no oxidation. It does, however, lack the complexity one would expect from a good Barsac or Sauternes from this vintage.   

The Harrow, Little Bedwyn – another great dinner

The Harrow, Little Bedwyn 

Great treat on Friday evening – dinner with good friends at The Harrow, Little Bedwyn. We chose the Set 6 Course Tasting Menu. Having taken the precaution of ordering our wines in advance we were served the Wiston Estate Sugrue-Pierre "The Trouble with Dreams" English sparkler very soon after our arrival in the busy restaurant. Made from 55% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier, this is a lovely fresh sparkling wine with mineral acidity in the finish.

 Langoustine bisque with grilled sourdough

 Citrus cured salmon & Torbay crab with Exmoor caviar salt

(this dish was especially good)

 Cornish line caught turbot with Dorset clams & leeks

2004 Bin 7, Riesling, Clare Valley

Leasingham 

Looking through The Harrow's wine list the 2004 Leasingham Riesling stood out. An Australian Riesling with 12 years bottle age and furthermore at a very reasonable price. I had no idea when I emailed Roger and Sue with my choice that I was ordering their last bottle of this wine. The screwcapped Leasingham certainly met expectations from the lovely evocative nose and flavour of lightly evolved Riesling – some lemon and lime, floral notes and peachy. Overall it was the purity of fruit and the wine's vibrantly fresh finish that was memorable. 

Back in 1999 tasting a Yalumba screwcapped Riesling from the mid 1970s was an epiphany. This 2004 is further confirmation that Riesling – Oztralian certainly – ages brilliantly under screwcap.    

 

 Northumberland roc venison,
black pudding (Charles Macleod from Stornaway), parsnip and morels

(above and below)

1996 Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie 

Roger kindly invited to bring our own bottles along, so I chose to take on – this 1996 Chinon from Domaine de la Noblaie. It showed brightly with enticingly spicy aromas and generous soft fruit and a long balanced finish. Furthermore it turned out that the 96 Chinon and the venison were made for each other. 

The 1996 was made by François Billard, whose main job as the time was teaching oenology at Lycée Viticole at Montreil-Bellay. It wasn't until 2003 that his son Jérôme returned to the domaine after his studies and working in various parts of the world to take over.   

Selection of five English cheeses
– we shared this between the five of us   

 Boiled egg & soldier 

– very inventive pre-dessert

Orchestrated chocolate but 

including a cherry parfait  

The Harrow is highly recommended both the food and the wine list are wonderful. The service is very efficient, while being friendly and relaxed. A delight! 

Domaine de la Noblaie's delicious 2015 Goutte de Rosé

Yesterday evening I opted for a glass or two of Jérôme Billard's very attractive 2015 Goutte de Rosé Chinon made from 100% Cabernet Franc. For his rosé Jérôme uses the vines at the bottom of the slope that usually don't ripen sufficiently to make good red wine. It is good practice to decide which parcels will be used to make rosé.

Goutte de Rosé is conveniently closed with a screwcap. The 2015 has an attractive weight of fruit and delicate acidity. It might well have gone well with the prawns that I intended to cook last night. However, not long after embarking on the second glass the door bell went – our downstairs neighbour back from her travels and suffering from a cold. 

Clearly a good time to see if a glass or so would sort out her cold. I haven't yet heard whether Goutte proved to be a successful remedy but we comfortably polished off Jérôme's rosé while catching up on respective travels as well as the lunacy of Brexit. 

I'm sure she will have been as delighted as I am by the UK's High Court ruling, correctly, that triggering Article 50 to start negotiations for exiting the EU will have to be put before, and passed by, Parliament rather than being left to Teresa May's whim.     

Petit Thouars + Domaine de la Noblaie – two samples to try

 Château Petit Thouars, AC Touraine 

Sébastien du Petit Thouars 

and wine-maker Michel Pinard

I dropped into see Sebastien on Friday to catch up on where they were with the 2016 harvest. They were fortunate that they weren't hit by the late April frost. Sebastien told me that they would pick their Chenin Blanc tomorrow (Saturday) and then the Cabernet Franc next week. Currently their Chenin was at 13% potential and 6 acidity, while the Cabernet Franc was at 12.5% and 5 acidity. 

Sébastien kindly gave me a bottle of their 2015 Touraine Chenin Blanc – next year this can be labelled as Chinon Blanc as from the 2016 the Chinon appellation has been expanded to the south west. There is, however, a doubt for if Thouars 2016 has a similar quantity of residual sugar in it to the 2015 (over 20 grams) it won't meet the regulations for Chinon Blanc, which specify a maximum of 6 grams of residual sugar. 

Anyway the 2015 is very attractive – richly textured but with enough acidity not to make the wine cloying. It works as an apero but would I think be better with a rich paté/foie gras, blue cheese but also with pork and a rich sauce or pheasant à la Normande – cooked in apple and cream – or similar.  

Jérôme Billard, Domaine de la Noblaie 

At the Domaine de la Noblaie in Ligré (AC Chinon) we were given a bottle of 2008 Pierre de la Tuf – the domaine's special cuvée that is made in a limestone vat. The 2008 is delicious to drink at the moment – slightly herbal reflecting the relatively cool 2008 vintage but now with very soft and integrated tannins.   

Facel Vegas @Domaine de la Noblaie, Appellation Chinon

 Three classic cars @Noblaie, Ligré:

Two Facel Vegas and a Lagonda 

(above and below)

 Open top Lagonda  – not ideal with Wednesday 

afternoon's wet weather

A small group of classic car enthusiasts had asked me to set up some visits in the Loire. As they were staying at the Hotel de France in La Chartre-sur-le-Loir and wanted to visit red wine producers over two days, it made sense to organise visits in Bourgueil and Chinon. I have already posted Tuesdays visit to Lamé Delisle Boucard and subsequent lunch at Vincent le Cuisinier: here and here.  

Wednesday they were due to visit Château de Rivau in the morning but they only had time to have a quick glance before heading to the Auberge Val de Vienne in Sazilly for lunch where we met up for an excellent meal. 

Sign at the Auberge Val de Vienne 

 Philippe Alliet's 2014 Chinon Rosé – crisp and refreshing

Starters:

 Escargots

Langoustines

Mains:  

 Carré d'Agneau

Homard

2012 Pierre de Tuf, Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie 

A successful 2012 that would benefit from further bottle age

Dessert:

Chocolate et framboise millefeuilles

Domaine de la Noblaie: 

Elodie Billard 

After lunch we drove the short distance from Sazilly to Ligré for our appointment at Domaine de la Noblaie. Here with Elodie Billard we tasted the attractive 2011 Touraine sparkling – Mon Ange – a blend of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, followed by clean and quite rich 2015 Goutte de Rosé with its pear aromas and flavours. Next up the 2015 Chinon Blanc with good weight and pineapple fruit before we moved on to the reds.

The 2015 Temps de Cerise sees no wood and is bottled in June – very much an easy drinking, early maturing wine. With its ripe black fruits this is very much a wine to enjoy with friends rather than one to analyse. The Cerise was followed by three 2014s – Les Blancs Manteaux, Les Chiens Chiens and Pierre de Tuf, which is vinified in an ancient vat carved out of tuffeau - the local limestone. All of these 2014s are matured in 500-litre barrels. They have attractive weight of ripe black fruits that is currently typical of the 2014s. They can be enjoyed now but will improve with further time in bottle. Of the three I had a preference for Les Chiens Chiens and Pierre de Tuf.  

We finished the tasting with a ten-year-old Pierre de Tuf – 2006. This had a lovely truffle and lightly mushroomy character along with some gamy notes, very attractive texture and noticeable structure in the finish. Although the 2006 vintage was a race against rot the reds have turned out well and are very good to drink now.     

Noblaie sign and the classic car line up