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2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Showing posts with label Guy Bossard. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Guy Bossard. Show all posts

Tuesday, 4 December 2018

Domaine Bel Argus: further details of Ivan Massonnat's new venture in Anjou



The rare butterfly that has inspired the 
name of Ivan Massonnat's new domaine 


Further details have just come through of Ivan Massonnat's exciting new venture in Anjou.

Back in June Massonnat bought Jo Pithon's domaine, which includes the Coteau des Treilles, a steep parcel in the commune of Beaulieu that overlooks the Layon. At the same time Massonnat acquired 10 hectares in the Quarts de Chaume from Laffourcade – giving him a quarter of this Grand Cru. 

Massonnat has now completed his new domaine of 26 hectares with some parcels (3 hectares in total) in Savennières. This includes the Clos des Ruchères, which is next to appellation Roche aux Moines. 

The new estate, to be 100% biodynamic, is to be called Bel Argus after a rare butterfly that is found in the Coteau des Treilles and inspires Jo Pithon's rare cuvée – Belargus des Treilles.

Massonnat has also finalised his team of seven – a blend of youth and experience. Jo Pithon remains involved with Guy Bossard, one of the earliest Loire producers to adopt biodynamics, as a consultant. 24-year-old Adrien Moreau is the winemaker with 27 year-old Geoffroi Cocard as the chef du culture (i/c vineyards) and 29 year-old Amaury Chartier, who will be responsible for looking after the Coteau des Treilles, whose very steep slopes will doubtless keep him fit! 

Jo Pithon's négociant business, Pithon-Paillé, will continue alongside Domaine Bel Argus as a complementary company. 

This promises to be a very exciting project – one which should boost the reputation of Anjou, Chenin Blanc and bring further interest to Loire wines. Jo Pithon's career has had its share of ups and downs. I hope that this new venture will see Jo's now 40 year-old time as a winemaker ending on a high. Certainly the new venture has been lucky with having 2018 as its first vintage.

I look forward to meet Ivan Massonnat in the near future and learning more about Domaine Bel Argus.         


Press release: 4.12.18

'LE DOMAINE « BEL ARGUS » COMPLÈTE SA COLLECTION DE GRANDS 
TERROIRS DE L’ANJOU

Six mois après avoir repris le domaine de Jo Pithon,
Ivan Massonnat s’implante à Savennières et finalise son équipe. 

 



LE PITHON-PAILLE AU DOMAINE « BEL ARGUS »
En acquérant le domaine Pithon-Paillé, Ivan Massonnat a réalisé son reve de passionné, et a posé les fondations d’un grand projet : bâtir un vignoble d’exception sur les plus beaux terroirs de l’Anjou pour y produire de grands Chenins en Biodynamie. 


Ivan Massonnat finalise aujourd’hui le périmètre foncier de son domaine, en s’implantant sur la commune de Savennières : il reprend en fermage un ensemble de vignes à la famille Taillandier et lui rachète un terroir d’exception (le Clos des Ruchères). Il exploitera désormais près de 3 hectares sur cette appellation recherchée. Accolée au Clos, une maison de charme style 1900 sera transformée en lieu d’accueil. Disposant d’une cave sous-terraine (chose rare pour cette région de schistes), cette maison deviendra le lieu d’élevage de toutes les cuvées de Savennières. 


Le nouveau domaine, dorénavant constitué, s’appellera BEL ARGUS, en hommage à la cuvée la plus rare que produisait Jo Pithon (« Belargus des Treilles »). C’est aussi le nom d’un petit papillon bleu très rare à cette latitude, mais présent sur le terroir du Coteau des Treilles, qui a vocation à incarner un message universel : la beauté et la fragilité de la Nature. 


UNE COLLECTION DE GRANDS TERROIRS DE L’ANJOU
Avec cette dernière acquisition, le Domaine Bel Argus atteint sa taille finale de 26 hectares, et s’articule désormais autour de 3 terroirs exceptionnels : 

Le Coteau des Treilles (Monopole), joyau du domaine Pithon-Paillé : un coteau de 3 hectares exposé plein Sud, abandonné après-guerre à cause de ses fortes pentes (30 à 70%). Il est situé dans un écrin de biodiversité, au sein d’une zone classée « Réserve Naturelle Régionale » (cogérée avec la LPO). 

Les Quarts de Chaume (Grand Cru) : 10 hectares d’un seul tenant (soit un quart de cette micro-appellation, la seule AOC classée « Grand Cru » de tout le Val de Loire), comprenant les parcelles historiques de l’appellation : « Les Quarts » et « Les Rouères », notamment. 

Le Clos des Ruchères (Savennières), objet du présent rachat : 45 ares d’un coteau abrupt, clos de murs et implanté sur de magnifiques schistes pourpres. Défriché et replanté il y a une dizaine d’années seulement, il est contigu à la zone d’appellation « Roche-aux- Moines ». 


ESPRIT « START-UP » ET VISION BOURGUIGNONNE 
C’est avec la même énergie qu’Ivan Massonnat a constitué une équipe jeune et passionnée,
comptant désormais 7 personnes, ayant toutes fait leurs armes auprès de domaines référents.

Le jeune winemaker, Adrien Moreau (24 ans), est fils d’agriculteurs du Val de Loire. Ingénieur Agronome et Œnologue de formation, il a bâti son expérience dans des domaines réputés (Cheval Blanc, Haut-Brion, Harlan Estate, Roederer). Très investi à ses cotés, Jo Pithon continue de faire profiter le Domaine de son expérience de vinificateur (40 millésimes au compteur) et de sa connaissance intime des terroirs de l’Anjou. 

Sur la partie vignoble, le chef de culture précédemment en place, Geoffroi Cocard (27 ans) a été rejoint par trois autres personnes. Parmi elles, un ancien du domaine Roc d’Anglade, Amaury Chartier (29 ans), sera entièrement dédié au Coteau des Treilles, avec pour mission de le travailler « comme un jardin ». L’équipe vignoble bénéficiera de l’accompagnement de Guy Bossard, pionnier de la Biodynamie en France et ancien propriétaire du Domaine de l’Ecu en Muscadet (certifié Bio dès 1972). 

L’équipe du Domaine Bel Argus, conjuguant jeunesse et expérience, a eu la chance de se fédérer autour du millésime 2018, déjà annoncé comme exceptionnel. 

Elle s’inscrira dans la vision bourguignonne chère à Ivan Massonnat : exprimer la quintessence des terroirs, à travers le prisme du parcellaire, grâce à des sols vivants et une biodiversité protégée. Un vaste plan de restructuration et d’investissement a été lancé, avec pour objectifs prioritaires le soin du matériel végétal et la précision apportée à chaque étape de la vinification. Le Domaine vise à être rapidement 100% certifié en Biodynamie. 

PITHON-PAILLE DEMEURE
A coté du Domaine détenu en propre, subsistera le négoce-artisan « Pithon-Paillé » créé par Jo Pithon il y a 10 ans. L’objectif est de compléter la gamme du Domaine avec les meilleurs terroirs ligériens, en appellations Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, Chinon ou Crémant de Loire. Les gammes seront bien distinctes et s’adresseront, à terme, à des marchés complémentaires.

Tuesday, 22 September 2015

#2015Loire: day trip to Muscadet

Guy Bossard's considered opinion of the 2015 vintage 


Off to Muscadet for the day. Unfortunately en-route we soon ran into rain, which was forecast but as occasional showers. However, this rain was decidedly more persistent and sustained. Later in the morning it cleared up but late afternoon there were some heavy showers.



This rather illustrated the complications of the 2015 vintage in the Pays Nantais. Until the end of the last third of August an exceptional vintage looked possible. Unfortunately a succession of heavy rain storms brought rot with big variations from parcel to parcel. According to Joseph Landron the grape ripening was blocked by the rain and then a lack of heat unlike earlier in the summer.



Jo can't remember a vintage when there was so much heavy rain. Although when the harvest started in the first week in September the grapes were still healthy so machine picking wasn't problematic, both Jo and Fred Niger van Herck - they both pick everything by hand - worry that with some 80% of Muscadet harvested by machine, that the later parcels harvested by machine will have mixed healthy and rotten grapes. Jo said that his picking teams were checking the grapes over twice in the vines. Firstly the pickers have been told to discard rotten grapes and then grapes are rechecked on a selection table before going onto the winery.    

Guy's successor Frédéric Niger van Herck
is more optimistic although stresses the need to hand pick 
and that hand picking in 2015 is a long time 
because of the need for rigorous selection 

Marie Luneau (Domaine Luneau-Papin) calling the pickers to order 

Jo Landron
moustache en guyot double...

Good to see Jo Landron today but very sorry to hear that he suffered a serious accident about a month ago falling 3.5 metres off the roof of house he was helping his son to renovate. Although he broke a vertebrae and various ribs and will need to be patient to recover properly, it could have been so much worse. Apparently his fall was broken by some bushes.

Best wishes to Jo for his recovery and for the wisdom not to try to push things too fast.   




Thursday, 3 October 2013

2013 Loire Vintage: photos of Frédéric Niger and Guy Bossard

Frédéric Niger 

After seeing the Luneau family, shortly to be increased by one as Marie Chartier, Pierre-Marie's wife, is expecting their second child in November (makes sense to augment the picking gang!), we headed just up the road to Fred Niger and Guy Bossard's Domaine de l'Ecu. It is good to see that Fred is bringing a new dynamism to this estate. Most visible are the élèvage jars and the single amphore for creating something similar to the orange wine of Georgia. This is exactly the same type of amphore as I saw at Thierry Michon's Domaine Saint Nicolas last Friday. All part of a delivery of three amphores – Joseph Landron has the other one. 

The amphore has to be filled with water before it is used. They are much more water-tight/wine-tight that the élèvage jars show below. These lose 20% of the liquid put into them. With Fred I tasted his 2012 Cabernet Franc aged both in the barrique and jar. The fruit on the barrique sample was much more vivid with more noticeable tannins, while the one from the jar was softer, rounder with more integrated tannins. The final wine will be a blend of the two.        
Guy@an underground tank – a feature of wineries in the Pays Nantais

Guy Bossard and the amphore


The élèvage jars

Photo by CRM

 2013 Melon 

Fred with the cap of the domaine's Pinot Noir 

Fermenting Pinot Noir

Wednesday, 22 September 2010

Two days in Muscadet: 21st and 22nd September (part one)

2010 Melon in one of the Luneau-Papin's vineyards


Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin
Yesterday we got to Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin (Le Landreau) just after midday on another glorious September day. By mid-afternoon the temperature was up to 27.5˚. The Luneaus are in the middle of vintage and concentrating on the best parcels that they pick by hand, which they expect to finish on Thursday. Then the rest will be harvested by machine. The fruit isn’t quite as perfect as last year as there is a little bit of rot caused by a small amount of rain around 15th August. In Le Landreau they only had 15mm but in nearby Clisson it was 30mm. Even so they are having to pick selectively to avoid any rot. However, overall here it is very dry with little rain falling from April.

Understandably Pierre and Monique, their son – Pierre-Marie – and Marie, their daughter are very happy with the quality of the fruit again this year. “The Ban des Vendanges for Muscadet was on the 8th September but we started last Tuesday (14th),” said Pierre. “Grapes from the young vines are coming in at 10.9˚-11˚ potential, while from older vines it’s between 11.1˚ and 11.7˚. Acidity levels are between 4.2 – 4.3 grams per litre, which means that they will end up around 4.”

Pierre-Marie added: “The yields are lower than we expected – 35 hl/ha in our cru vineyards compared to 45 hl/ha last year. When pressed the grapes don’t give a lot of juice and the skins are thick.

We tasted juice from various parcels. All were very clean and quite rich with some freshness in the finish.

Luneau-Papin: hand-picked Melon awaiting processing


*
Guy analysing his 15% Melon


Guy Bossard
The next visit was to Guy (Le Landreau), who is just up the road. He was always very happy with how the vintage is going, although he is somewhat concerned that the juice from the end of the pressing is an extraordinary 15˚. Overall the potential alcohol levels are between 12.5˚ and 13˚ with the acidity between 4.5 and 4.7. ‘We started on the 8th,” said Guy. ‘In the morning we picked Pinot Noir for our sparkling and then Melon in the afternoon.” (Melon de Bourgogne is the only grape permitted for Muscadet.) "Not only is the quality of the grapes good but we are also getting a decent yield – 50 hl/ha." In 2007 and 2008 Guy had tiny yields due in the former year to mildew and then April frost the following year.

I tasted the juice of Guy's range of Muscadets and all were rich and clean. "We got two more days of harvest left," said Guy. He told me that he had had a phone call from Mark Angeli, the well-known producer and wag in Thouarcé in the Layon. When Mark heard the alcoholic degrees Guy was getting in his 2010 grapes, he remarked "Well for once you are going to have ripe grapes!"

Some of Guy's 2010 crop


*

Joseph Landron picking 21.9.2010


Joseph Landron (La Haye Fouassière)
Like the Luneaus and Guy Bossard, Joseph is pleased with the 2010 vintage although there is some rot that has to be cut out. Some of this rot has dried out and become botrytised. 

"We started on 10th September," he explained. "Our degrees are not as high as Guy's – around 11.8% with the acidity around 4.8 grams per litre.  We are getting between 50 and 55 hl/ha and the juice is pure, elegant and fruity. Although we harvest our best parcels by hand and I prefer to harvest by hand with 45ha I have no option but to harvest some by machine. The harvest lasts about ten days. The problem with Muscadet is that we don't really get the price per bottle that justifies picking selectively. However, I still do it."


His parting words were on the UK market. "England is my worst market. It just hasn't been possible to find a good importer." I assured him that he wasn't alone and that there are many good producers who find the UK to be an impossible market to break into. Probably because we are so fixated on price.




*

Grapes waiting to be processed@Chasseloir


Bernard Chereau – Chereau-Carré (Saint-Fiacre)
Our last visit in Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine was to see Bernard Chereau at Château Chasseloir. "We started picking last Thursday and continued on Friday when we picked our other domaines including Château l'Oiselinière," said Bernard. "We moved onto Chasseloir yesterday and we have about another week's picking to do. The quality is good with around 12% potential and between 4-4.5 gms/litre acidity. It has been dry – this hasn't been a problem for our old vines but the younger vines have suffered. We haven't needed to treat against mildew since the 10th July."

The juice here again was clean with considerable weight.
 


 

Sunday, 7 February 2010

Renaissance tasting: 30th and 31st January 2010

Mark Angeli: one of the movers behind the Renaissance tasting

This annual tasting in Angers just before the Salon des Vins de Loire used to be called Renaissance des Appellations. Now 'des appellations' has been dropped and it has become Renaissance des Terroirs (RDT). An increasing number of the participants have decided that France's appellations are beyond saving and now prefer to sell their wines as vin de table, especially as the new regulations are less restrictive over what can go on the label – vintage, where it was made, etc. They also avoid some of the bureaucracy that now surrounds the ACs. All of the participants at the Renaissance tasting are either organic or biodynamic, although not all are members of RDT. Producers are limited to showing five wines.

Building just by the Greniers de Saint-Jean

This year we went to the Renaissance on the Sunday morning. With La Dive Bouteille tasting on at the cellars of Château de Bréze at the same time the Renaissance was less packed than usual, so much better for tasting. Incidentally I gather that the Brézé cellars were freezing.

Joseph Landron

I started with the Muscadets of Guy Bossard and Joseph Landron. Of the two, Joseph Landron's 2009s were showing much better at this stage than Guy's which lacked zip. I enjoyed Joseph's very recently bottled 2009 Amphibolite Nature with its zippy, lemony fruit and just a touch of richness – bring on the oysters! The 2009 Hermine d'Or, from vines planted on sandstone, looks particularly promising. It will be bottled in May and currently is quite rich and full with white flower characters. Returning to Guy Bossard I thought the 2009 Othogneiss was the best of the four he was showing.

Of course any comments on the 2009s are very provisional, especially on wines that haven't yet been bottled. I always see tasting notes as a snapshot in time. Notes on unfinished wines are particularly fleeting and transitory.

Next to the wines of Mark Angeli (La Ferme de la Sansonnière in Thouarcé). Understandably, once the Renaissance tasting starts to fill up, it is often virtually impossible to get anywhere near to the table of the sage of Thouarcé, so we took the opportunity to taste Mark's wines early on. I have long been a fan of these wines, although there was a time when Mark wasn't using any sulphur and opening a bottle could be a bit of a lottery. I think Mark's wines are now better than ever as the three 2008 whites I tasted showed. All had a greater precision and minerality than previously starting with Claire de Lune. Of the three, Les Fouchardes was my favourite showing a lovely combination of concentration and delicacy plus length and power. We finished with the Vieilles Vignes des Blanderies – bigger than the other two and needing more time but a lot of potential. For a more detailed account of Mark's wines see Chris Kissack's report.

Previous posts on 2010 Renaissance tasting here and here.

(Further posts on the Renaissance tasting will follow.)

Thursday, 22 January 2009

Guy Bossard's Domaine de l'Ecu up for sale


Confirmation this morning that Guy Bossard, one of Muscadet's top quality producers, has put his Domaine de l'Ecu up for sale. Guy is now in his late 50s and with no one from his family to take over has decided that it is time to sell. Two disastrously small harvests in 2007 and 2008 may have contributed to his decision. In 2007 Guy made 9 hl/ha due to mildew, while in 2008 frost reduced his crop to 17 hl/ha.

Domaine de l'Ecu has around 17 ha of vines and Guy was one of the first in the Loire to embrace biodynamics – converting in 1986.

I hope that whoever takes over will work to maintain the high quality of Guy's wine and not trade on his reputation with inferior wine.

Thursday, 25 September 2008

Pierre Luneau and Guy Bossard

"Surely I must have some more 2008!" Pierre Luneau.

(24 September 2008)
To be posted: tasting with Pierre Luneau including a vertical of Excelsior, his Muscadet troisième niveau, from 2008 through to 2002. Also a brief visit to Guy Bossard as well as a view of Castel's new factory.........

Sign at Guy Bossard's office and tasting room.

A recent edition of La Revue du Vins de France has an article on Guy Bossard of Domaine de l’Ecu and Joseph Landron of Domaines Landron in La Haye Fouassière. The article’s theme or conceit is that it was Guy Bossard alone who made quality Muscadet during the late 1970s and 1980s. It was Guy, who bravely swam against the tidal wave of mediocre Muscadet. Now Joseph Landron is a worthy disciple/successor to Guy.

Without taking anything away from the work and wines of Guy and Joseph, this strikes me as a gross simplification. My first visit to the Pays Nantais was at the end of 1989. It was clear that there were producers other than Guy, who unfortunately wasn’t in my programme of visits, who were passionate and dedicated to making top quality Muscadet.

Louis Métaireau most comes to mind. I still remember after nearly 20 years the gleam in Louis’ eye and the relish in his voice as he described the tasting hurdles the Muscadets made by his vignerons d’art had to surmount to prove they were good enough to be part of the Métaireau range. And spending an evening with Jean-Ernest Sauvion, who was determined that this novice wine journalist properly understood sur lie, its importance and why it was a nonsense at that time to allow people to transport Muscadet sur lie in bulk and bottle it away from where it had been made. Fortunately the rules were subsequently tightened up and now sur lie has to be bottled sur place. Taste Pierre Luneau’s 1979, his 1982 or other vintages from the period – obviously quality Muscadets. There may have been more poor Muscadet then but there were also quality producers – fortunately Guy was not alone.

Coming shortly.....