Top Alain Brumont wines from 1989 divides diners

 1989 Château Bouscassé, Vieilles Vignes, 

Madiran, Alain Brumont 

1989 Château Montus, Cuvée Prestige, 

Madiran, Alain Brumont

Recently we partnered a pair of Alain Brumont's top 1989 wines with a poached chicken. Both of these wines have a very high percentage of Tannat – at least 100% although not allowed under the rules of the appellation even though Tannat has a long tradition as a local grape variety.

The four of us were agreed that both 1989s were lovely wines but we were equally split over which of the two we preferred. Two of us went for the soft complexity of the Montus with its attractively textured structure and tannins, while the other two preferred the more tannic and 'rustic' Bouscassé as a more authentic representation of Madiran. They felt the more 'sophisticated and smoother' Montus could have come from elsewhere, whereas the Bouscassé was more representative of the local terroir and a more representative example of Madiran.       

A couple of recently enjoyed bottles: Villebois and Bouscassé

2007 Chenin Blanc, Vin Val de Loire

2007 was the last vintage of the Villebois Chenin Blanc from 40 year old vines. A pity because this was rather good – deep gold in colour with just a hint of oxidation that added complexity, quite a rich honeyed palate with very clean vibrant acidity. Sadly this was our only bottle. if we had more would have been confident that this Chenin Blanc still has a long life in prospect.  

1993 Madiran Vieilles Vignes Château Bouscassé

The Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes, Alain Brumont is 100% Tannat. Although 1993 isn't a special vintage this still powerful wine is still drinking quite well but may well be on the way down. If I had any more bottles I would be planning to drink them up over the next couple of years.   

Claude Darroze, Langon

Claude Darroze eating out under the plain trees

I suspect this may be the last post about our trip around southern France during August. We spent a couple of days staying at the Claude Darroze hotel and restaurant in the centre of Langon, the market town of Sauternes. Back in 1979 on our first visit this was the first Michelin star restaurant we ever ate at and the experience remains memorable. In those days we camped in the municipal site by the Garonne where we encountered some of the largest and most viscous mosquitoes ever. Incidentally the Darroze hotel still supplies each room with a large can of fly and mosquito killer. 

 

 

When had two excellent dinners at Claude Darroze. On the second evening it was dry and warm enough to dine outside on the terrace under the plain trees, which is always special. The restaurant's wine list is extensive mainly centred as one would expect on Bordeaux. On each occasion we chose a Bordeaux white for our aperitif and first course and then a red from the south west as they offered better value. On the first night it was the 2003 Montus (Madiran) from Alain Brumont and on the second night the fine 1999 Prince Probus from Clos Triguedina (Cahors).     

An evening with Alain Brumont's wines and his winemaker

Fabrice Dubosc, winemaker for Alain Brumont

My report on this evening is now complete. See here.

An evening @Gauthier Soho with Fabrice Dubosc, winemaker for Alain Brumont (Madiran)

Fabrice Dubosc@Gauthier looking a little apprehensive over the 'Mystery?'

Spent a very enjoyable evening on Tuesday tasting and drinking a range of Alain Brumont’s Madirans and Pacherencs at the new Gauthier Soho restaurant, which has taken over the old site of Richard Corrigan’s fine restaurant in London Soho’s Romilly Street.

We started with five 2009 Madirans, which are being offered for sale en primeur for the first time – fortunately most of them are reasonably priced in comparison to the equivalent quality in Bordeaux. All the 2009s are very deep and densely coloured. The straight Château Bouscassé (£15 a bottle) is soft with rich fruit and surprisingly light, approachable tannins. The Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes (£24) is a step up in both concentration and tannin level, which will need longer to soften. Château Montus (£20) has a similar concentration of black fruits and tannins. The Montus Prestige was my preferred 2009 with rich, sweet black fruits, structure and balancing acidity (£29 tbc). Finally the very deep coloured, dense and decidedly tannic La Tyre (£75). On current showing this is going to need at least a good ten years to come round.

Fabrice Dubosc has been working for Alain Brumont for 10 years now, although he first met him 20 years ago. Curiously it was on the ski slopes where the young Fabrice was working as a ski instructor. He happened to help Catherine Brumont, Alain's wife, and her child, so it was suggested that he ride up the chair lift with Alain. Although Fabrice knew little about wine at this point this was the start of a friendship with Alain. When he started to study wine, Fabrice did a stage (work experience) with Alain. Later after working at Château Margaux – he wasn't impressed at how the cellars were managed at the time, although it showed him how important the terroir was – and then with Guigal in the Rhône Valley. "Marcel Guigal is a great taster," Fabrice told us.

Then ten years ago Alain Brumont phoned Fabrice and asked him to come and work for him and he has been with Alain ever since. When Alain Brumont started in 1979 he inherited 17ha from his father. Today he has between 240-250 ha.

Over dinner we tried a range of Alain's wines starting with two Pacherencs – the fresh and lemony 2008 Château Bouscassé (£13.50) made from 100% Petit Courbu, which is fermented in stainless steel and the richer and fuller 2007 Château Montus (£24.50), which comes from a warmer vineyard and includes 20% Petit Manseng along with the petit Courbu. It is vinified and aged in new oak demi-muids (600 litre barrels) for a year. The Montus was a better match with the foie gras, although the Bouscassé was attractively refreshing.


Then on to three Madirans from the very hot 2003 vintage: the soft and concentrated Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes (£29.75), Montus Prestige (£44) and Montus La Tyre (£75), the single vineyard. Of the three I enjoyed the Montus best as although it was powerful and concentrated its had greater freshness and acidity in its long finish. At 15% La Tyre had lots of soft power and concentration but I'm not convinced that it is worth the extra money.

We finished the reds with the attractive 2000 La Tyre (n/a) fresher and less opulent than the trio of 2003s.

Then a couple of sweet wines strictly speaking served in the wrong order as Fabrice had to be persuaded to show the 2004 Pacherenc Larmes Célestes, which really had been included in case there was a problem with the Frimaire 2000, made from grapes picked in December. There wasn't a problem and the Frimaire was magnificent with lovely concentrated, rich citric flavours but with a super freshness. The 2004 Larmes Célestes was picked in October so it is a very different, lighter style making an attractive apéritif.

I have met Alain Brumont on a number of occasions – the first time in 1988 and then interviewed him in 1989, I think. Then my very initial impression was of a diffident, shy man. That impression is very rapidly dispelled as Alain warms up and his steely determination and passion become evident. He has certainly transformed the image of Madiran and Pacherenc.