The new winery on the eastern edge of Maury
My final visit during my short stay in Roussillon was to visit the new Thunevin-Calvet winery, which is on the eastern outskirts of the small town of Maury. From the name you might imagine that this is a joint venture by two famous Bordelais names but you would only be partly correct. This is a partnership between one famous Bordelais – Jean-Luc Thunevin of Château Valandraud renown – and Jean-Roger Calvet a producer in Maury.
Until Jean-Roger took over in 2000 grapes from the Calvet's family vines had gone to the Cave-Coop de Maury. In 1999 Jean-Roger worked in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. When he returned to Maury the following year his ambition was to make Grenache here of similar quality to those produced in Châteauneuf. This proved to be difficult because the conditions in Maury are not the same as in the southern Rhône Valley.
"The soils are hotter and less fresh here," explained Jean-Roger. "Also many vines are planted facing south so that grapes gain as much alcohol as possible for vin doux naturel as producers were paid according to the alcoholic degree. Now that producers are turning to making unfortified wines they are looking for cooler, north-facing slopes. In 2007 we acquired some vines in Lesquerde at 400 metres, so cooler than around Maury.
In 2001 Jean-Roger decided that he needed a partner. With the help of Jean Pla, a former Bordeaux négociant now based in Maury, he was introduced to Jean-Luc Thunevin and the new domaine was set up. They now have 65 hectares in production and in 2008 the new winery was built. It is the first to be built in the area in a contemporary style, although they will probably not be the last in view of the number of new investors in the region.
99% of the production is dry wine with only 1% VDN Maury (3000 bottles) made. The vineyards are planted with 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 8% Carignan and 2% Mourvèdre. All are harvested by hand.
We tasted a number of 2009s from barrel including an 80-year-old Carignan, which showed again that this is a vintage with finesse and delicacy.
We then tasted the range in bottle starting with the soft and attractively blackcurrant fruited 2008 Cuvée Constance, a blend of Grenache and Carignan, which retails at the winery for 6€ making it very good value. There is some freshness in the finish making this a good bottle to share amongst friends.At 140,000 bottles this represents the majority of the domaine's production.
Next up the scale is Cuvée Dentelles (18€), which is a similar blend but from old vines. This was my favourite wine – herbal, black fruits and black olive with power and length. 2005 Hugo (30€), named after Jean-Roger's son, followed. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah – both picked at 15%, this has the sweetness supplied by the Grenache with some freshness and bright fruit in the finish from the Syrah but with still quite marked wood spice. It is, however, on the edge of being 'over the top' – just too powerful to enjoy, although perhaps a different matter in the winter.
We finished the dry reds with the 2005 Les Trois Marie – 100% Grenache. Full of dense, rich, brooding black fruits with a complex mid-palate and powerful but ripe tannins. This is a wine that while is impressive to taste is heavy – difficult to imagine that you can drink much of it, especially as it retails at an amazing 100€. This is 30€more than the top wines from Domaine Gauby and nowhere near as good.
We end with the fine 2007 Maury (25€) with good concentration of fruit, complexity and balance.
Although an interesting visit, Thunevin-Calvet I think is again an example where more power and more concentration can equal less. I'd be happier drinking the entry level and excellent value Cuvée Constance than struggling through the way more expensive Les Trois Marie.
Jean-Roger Calvet
"The soils are hotter and less fresh here," explained Jean-Roger. "Also many vines are planted facing south so that grapes gain as much alcohol as possible for vin doux naturel as producers were paid according to the alcoholic degree. Now that producers are turning to making unfortified wines they are looking for cooler, north-facing slopes. In 2007 we acquired some vines in Lesquerde at 400 metres, so cooler than around Maury.
In 2001 Jean-Roger decided that he needed a partner. With the help of Jean Pla, a former Bordeaux négociant now based in Maury, he was introduced to Jean-Luc Thunevin and the new domaine was set up. They now have 65 hectares in production and in 2008 the new winery was built. It is the first to be built in the area in a contemporary style, although they will probably not be the last in view of the number of new investors in the region.
View from the winery
99% of the production is dry wine with only 1% VDN Maury (3000 bottles) made. The vineyards are planted with 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 8% Carignan and 2% Mourvèdre. All are harvested by hand.
We tasted a number of 2009s from barrel including an 80-year-old Carignan, which showed again that this is a vintage with finesse and delicacy.
We then tasted the range in bottle starting with the soft and attractively blackcurrant fruited 2008 Cuvée Constance, a blend of Grenache and Carignan, which retails at the winery for 6€ making it very good value. There is some freshness in the finish making this a good bottle to share amongst friends.At 140,000 bottles this represents the majority of the domaine's production.
Next up the scale is Cuvée Dentelles (18€), which is a similar blend but from old vines. This was my favourite wine – herbal, black fruits and black olive with power and length. 2005 Hugo (30€), named after Jean-Roger's son, followed. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah – both picked at 15%, this has the sweetness supplied by the Grenache with some freshness and bright fruit in the finish from the Syrah but with still quite marked wood spice. It is, however, on the edge of being 'over the top' – just too powerful to enjoy, although perhaps a different matter in the winter.
We finished the dry reds with the 2005 Les Trois Marie – 100% Grenache. Full of dense, rich, brooding black fruits with a complex mid-palate and powerful but ripe tannins. This is a wine that while is impressive to taste is heavy – difficult to imagine that you can drink much of it, especially as it retails at an amazing 100€. This is 30€more than the top wines from Domaine Gauby and nowhere near as good.
We end with the fine 2007 Maury (25€) with good concentration of fruit, complexity and balance.
Although an interesting visit, Thunevin-Calvet I think is again an example where more power and more concentration can equal less. I'd be happier drinking the entry level and excellent value Cuvée Constance than struggling through the way more expensive Les Trois Marie.
