Dinner@Green Man and French Horn

 1999 Cuvée Les Genêts, Savennières, Damien Laureau

Last night we had a very enjoyable dinner at the Green Man and French Horn in St. Martins Lane, London, finding a couple of reasonably priced and attractive Loire bottles of a certain age. The 1999 Cuvée Les Genêts was showing a little oxidation, especially when it was first opened. This was accentuated as it was served very cool. However, given time to warm up it showed much better with a richness of fruit showing through and the oxidation much less marked.  

Once the Savennières was dispatched we moved onto the 1996 Peu Muleau, Bourgueil, from the Caslot family's Domaine de la Chevalerie. At just over £34 this was a real steal and drinking very well at the moment with plenty of soft, evolved, brambly fruit.     

Some #RAW photos from the fair@Trumans, London

The RAW Fair in the Old Truman's Brewery

Despite the best efforts of (No Sunday) Transport for London and the difficulties of actually finding the right entrance the RAW fair attracted a good crowd today, especially by early afternoon. The space is big, good and light with plenty of room to move around.   

 Alexandre Bain: Pouilly-Fumé

 Amy Lillard, La Gramière: vin de table in the Rhône

Damien Laureau: Savennières

 Amy Lillard getting acquainted with top quality Chenin: 2006 Clos du Papillon 

from Domaine du Closel with Closel's owner Evelyne de Pontbriand

Peter Hahn, Le Clos de la Meslerie AC Vouvray
An American in Vouvray

 

Naturally business 

The globe orbiter Luiz Alberto arrives in Brick Lane 

Three friends around a spittoon inc Roger Kolbu and Luiz Alberto 

The middle is the message!

 Stare crazy with Vrazon's Gabriella and Ryan

 A wild ferment in the gents ......

1999 Cuvée des Gênets, Savennières, Domaine Laureau

Damien Laureau is one of Savennières' younger vignerons, who along with a number of Anjou producers that have bought into the appellation and who have shaken up a previously rather complacent appellation. Cuvée des Gênets is made from Damien's younger vines of between 20-40 years old. This cuvée is largely made in stainless tank (90%) with just 10% in wood. The wine matures over 18 months.

Initial note: The 1999 has quite an evolved colour - light gold edging mid. Perfumed nose of evolved Loire Chenin – including quince, dry apricot and a hint of honey. Steely background and structure. Quince and yellow plum on palate flavours that follow through into an austere finish.

I opened this Savennières straight from the fridge – made an initial tasting note and then decanted it and left it to come up to room temperature. As it warmed up it became increasingly opulent balancing the austerity in the finish. In time aromas of beeswax developed and it was a good match with a buttery, pot roasted chicken. Classic Savennières!

This 1999 retails at £13.99, which is excellent value for a becoming mature Savennières. The value is dependent on not drinking this too cold. Probably 12-13˚C is fine and time in a decanter is likely to be beneficial. Show me equivalent value in Burgundy!

Click here for a fine and detailed report on Damien and Domaine Laureau by Bertrand Celce.

Sample kindly supplied by Les Caves de Pyrène (01483-455068 - trade; 01483-554750 - retail)