Bel avenir pour Belargus ?

 

Ivan Massonnat, owner of the new Domaine Belargus*

Was initially called Bel Argus (2 words) now Belargus (one word) 

Last Thursday (3rd January) we had a very useful and interesting journey and visit to meet Ivan Massonnat at the winery of Pithon-Paillé in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay. During last year Ivan bought Jo Pithon's vineyards, Pascal Laffourcade's ten hectares of Quarts de Chaume and nearly three hectares in Savennières – creating his new Domaine Bel Argus, which I think is an exciting project for both Anjou and for Loire Chenin Blanc, the new domaine's sole focus.

We met Ivan and his new winemaker 24-year-old Adrien Moreau. Ivan explained how the new venture had come about.

"It had been intended that Jules, Jo Pithon's son and his partner Tania, would take over Pithon-Paillé. However, Jules and Tania separated and Jules decided against taking over. Jo and Isabelle, Jo's wife, decided to sell as they were ready to retire. Because of the frosts 2016 and 2017 had been difficult for Jo."
For a number of years Ivan has had a house in Champigny-sur-Veude to the south of Chinon. "For a long time I have been looking to buy a domaine in Anjou. I am particularly interested in single varietal wines and am a lover of those from Burgundy and have a passion for Chenin Blanc. I have often spoken with Patrick Baudouin. Last February I was with Patrick at the Salon des Vins de Loire. He told me that Jo Pithon's  estate was up for sale. I had never heard of Jo."

Patrick took Ivan to meet Jo at the Salon and early next day he was with Jo visiting the steeply sloping Clos des Treilles. There were a few others interested in acquiring Jo's domaine but Ivan soon emerged as the front-runner and the deal was completed on 6th June. Ivan explained that the Clos is not in the best state with some vines missing. The financial restraints imposed by the two successive years of frost would have made it difficult to do all the necessary replacements. 

 

Generous 2018 crop @l’Echarderie

At the same time Ivan bought Pascal Laffourcade's ten hectares in the Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru. These ten hectares are in one sole block around Pascal's Château de l’Echarderie. This represents a quarter of the appellation. I mentioned that I had been been walking in the Quarts de Chaume in October last year and had noted that the vines around l'Echarderie were carrying a considerable crop. "We made mostly dry wines from these grapes," said Ivan.  

More recently Ivan has bought nearly three hectares in Savennières adjacent to the Roche aux Moines. This brings his new domaine up to 26 hectares. 

 Adrien Moreau

Ivan encouraged Adrien, the young wine-maker, to introduce himself. 

"I joined in October for the end of the harvest." Adrien said. "I come from the Beauce and my parents are cereal farmers.  I studied wine-making at Paris and Montpellier along with spells at Cheval Blanc, Haut-Brion and Harlan Estate in the Napa Valley. In April 2018 I joined Roederer in Champagne and was there for the harvest, which was exceptional. I was very interested by the Roederer's vine collection and especially the work on Pinot Noir sélection massale,"

"What I like about Adrien," added Ivan, "is that he is more than a technician. Adrien is passionate about wine, a good taster and very keen to learn."

"2019 will be a year of reflection," explained Ivan. "This is a collective adventure – it is not about my ego. Anjou is not well known. Wine amateurs are becoming aware that Anjou has some grand terroirs." Ivan is keen that the general wine drinking public discover Anjou's potential. The current winery in Saint-Lambert will be considerably improved. It hasn't been decided whether to demolish the old building and start again. Possibly they may decide to build a new winery elsewhere.

Other details of Domaine Belargus were covered in an earlier post here.   

After introducing the project we went down into the cellar to taste the 2018 Chenins from barrel. Covering dry wines from Savennières, Les Bonnes Blanches (Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay), dry Chenin made in the Quarts de Chaume and Les Treilles. We finished with the sweet wines – delicacy and finesse from Belargus, Les Treilles (tiny production), 1er Cru Chaume Coteaux du Layon, and two parcels in the Quarts de Chaume – Les Rovers et Les Quarts with the latter currently more expressive. Ambroisie (35.5˚ potential) from Quarts de Chaume set us up for our return to the Cher Valley.  These wines are all still babies but 2018 looks very promising, very precise and well balanced. 

 Jo Pithon

Jo Pithon joined us part of the way through the tasting. He looked very relaxed – retirement is clearly suiting him!  It was also apparent that he and Ivan have a mutual respect. 

Ivan and Jo

Suffice to say that I was very impressed by Ivan and his Chenin Blanc project. Ivan stressed that this is very much a nine-strong team of mixed ages from Adrien in his early twenties to Jo at retirement and Guy Bossard, as the consultant for helping the entire domaine to become biodynamic. Interesting and encouraging that Ivan has persuaded Guy to take Belargus on as his only consultancy, choosing someone who knows the Loire intimately and not plumping for a 'stellar' consultant from Bordeaux or elsewhere and who already advises a large clutch of domaines.

After the harvest all of the team piled into mini-bus and headed to Côte Rotie where they visited a number of vignerons that Jo knows well. In addition to this team building Ivan stressed that they all meet regularly and that everyone is kept informed about what is happening in all aspects of the domaine. 

Jo's last business partner – Philip Fournier (Now Domaine FL) turned out to be a distressing disaster. I hope and think it very likely that that this new project will work much better and Jo will see his work, particularly on the Clos des Treilles, carried on and taken to the next level.

I asked Jo how this new partnership compared to his previous business arrangement. Diametrically different was the response...... 

  

 

Ivan, Jo and Adrien   

Bel avenir pour Bel Argus ?

Ivan Massonnat, owner of the new Domaine Bel Argus  

Today we had a very useful and interesting journey and visit to meet Ivan Massonnat at the winery of Pithon-Paillé in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay. During last year Ivan bought Jo Pithon's vineyards, Pascal Laffourcade's ten hectares of Quarts de Chaume and nearly three hectares in Savennières – creating his new Domaine Bel Argus, which I think is an exciting project for both Anjou and for Chenin Blanc, the new domaine's sole focus.

This post will be expanded considerably but suffice to say that I was very impressed by Ivan and his Chenin Blanc project. Jo's last business partner – Philip Fournier (Now Domaine FL) turned out to be a distressing disaster. I hope and thuink it very likely that that this new project will work much better and Jo will see his work, particularly on the Clos des Treilles. carried on and taken to the next level. 

  

Ivan and Jo       

Domaine Bel Argus: further details of Ivan Massonnat's new venture in Anjou

The rare butterfly that has inspired the 

name of Ivan Massonnat's new domaine 

Further details have just come through of Ivan Massonnat's exciting new venture in Anjou.

Back in June Massonnat bought Jo Pithon's domaine, which includes the Coteau des Treilles, a steep parcel in the commune of Beaulieu that overlooks the Layon. At the same time Massonnat acquired 10 hectares in the Quarts de Chaume from Laffourcade – giving him a quarter of this Grand Cru. 

Massonnat has now completed his new domaine of 26 hectares with some parcels (3 hectares in total) in Savennières. This includes the Clos des Ruchères, which is next to appellation Roche aux Moines. 

The new estate, to be 100% biodynamic, is to be called Bel Argus after a rare butterfly that is found in the Coteau des Treilles and inspires Jo Pithon's rare cuvée – Belargus des Treilles.

Massonnat has also finalised his team of seven – a blend of youth and experience. Jo Pithon remains involved with Guy Bossard, one of the earliest Loire producers to adopt biodynamics, as a consultant. 24-year-old Adrien Moreau is the winemaker with 27 year-old Geoffroi Cocard as the chef du culture (i/c vineyards) and 29 year-old Amaury Chartier, who will be responsible for looking after the Coteau des Treilles, whose very steep slopes will doubtless keep him fit! 

Jo Pithon's négociant business, Pithon-Paillé, will continue alongside Domaine Bel Argus as a complementary company. 

This promises to be a very exciting project – one which should boost the reputation of Anjou, Chenin Blanc and bring further interest to Loire wines. Jo Pithon's career has had its share of ups and downs. I hope that this new venture will see Jo's now 40 year-old time as a winemaker ending on a high. Certainly the new venture has been lucky with having 2018 as its first vintage.

I look forward to meet Ivan Massonnat in the near future and learning more about Domaine Bel Argus.         


Press release: 4.12.18

'LE DOMAINE « BEL ARGUS » COMPLÈTE SA COLLECTION DE GRANDS 
TERROIRS DE L’ANJOU

Six mois après avoir repris le domaine de Jo Pithon,
Ivan Massonnat s’implante à Savennières et finalise son équipe. 
 

LE PITHON-PAILLE AU DOMAINE « BEL ARGUS »
En acquérant le domaine Pithon-Paillé, Ivan Massonnat a réalisé son reve de passionné, et a posé les fondations d’un grand projet : bâtir un vignoble d’exception sur les plus beaux terroirs de l’Anjou pour y produire de grands Chenins en Biodynamie. 


Ivan Massonnat finalise aujourd’hui le périmètre foncier de son domaine, en s’implantant sur la commune de Savennières : il reprend en fermage un ensemble de vignes à la famille Taillandier et lui rachète un terroir d’exception (le Clos des Ruchères). Il exploitera désormais près de 3 hectares sur cette appellation recherchée. Accolée au Clos, une maison de charme style 1900 sera transformée en lieu d’accueil. Disposant d’une cave sous-terraine (chose rare pour cette région de schistes), cette maison deviendra le lieu d’élevage de toutes les cuvées de Savennières. 


Le nouveau domaine, dorénavant constitué, s’appellera BEL ARGUS, en hommage à la cuvée la plus rare que produisait Jo Pithon (« Belargus des Treilles »). C’est aussi le nom d’un petit papillon bleu très rare à cette latitude, mais présent sur le terroir du Coteau des Treilles, qui a vocation à incarner un message universel : la beauté et la fragilité de la Nature. 

UNE COLLECTION DE GRANDS TERROIRS DE L’ANJOU
Avec cette dernière acquisition, le Domaine Bel Argus atteint sa taille finale de 26 hectares, et s’articule désormais autour de 3 terroirs exceptionnels : 

Le Coteau des Treilles (Monopole), joyau du domaine Pithon-Paillé : un coteau de 3 hectares exposé plein Sud, abandonné après-guerre à cause de ses fortes pentes (30 à 70%). Il est situé dans un écrin de biodiversité, au sein d’une zone classée « Réserve Naturelle Régionale » (cogérée avec la LPO). 

Les Quarts de Chaume (Grand Cru) : 10 hectares d’un seul tenant (soit un quart de cette micro-appellation, la seule AOC classée « Grand Cru » de tout le Val de Loire), comprenant les parcelles historiques de l’appellation : « Les Quarts » et « Les Rouères », notamment. 

Le Clos des Ruchères (Savennières), objet du présent rachat : 45 ares d’un coteau abrupt, clos de murs et implanté sur de magnifiques schistes pourpres. Défriché et replanté il y a une dizaine d’années seulement, il est contigu à la zone d’appellation « Roche-aux- Moines ». 

ESPRIT « START-UP » ET VISION BOURGUIGNONNE 
C’est avec la même énergie qu’Ivan Massonnat a constitué une équipe jeune et passionnée, comptant désormais 7 personnes, ayant toutes fait leurs armes auprès de domaines référents.

Le jeune winemaker, Adrien Moreau (24 ans), est fils d’agriculteurs du Val de Loire. Ingénieur Agronome et Œnologue de formation, il a bâti son expérience dans des domaines réputés (Cheval Blanc, Haut-Brion, Harlan Estate, Roederer). Très investi à ses cotés, Jo Pithon continue de faire profiter le Domaine de son expérience de vinificateur (40 millésimes au compteur) et de sa connaissance intime des terroirs de l’Anjou. 

Sur la partie vignoble, le chef de culture précédemment en place, Geoffroi Cocard (27 ans) a été rejoint par trois autres personnes. Parmi elles, un ancien du domaine Roc d’Anglade, Amaury Chartier (29 ans), sera entièrement dédié au Coteau des Treilles, avec pour mission de le travailler « comme un jardin ». L’équipe vignoble bénéficiera de l’accompagnement de Guy Bossard, pionnier de la Biodynamie en France et ancien propriétaire du Domaine de l’Ecu en Muscadet (certifié Bio dès 1972). 

L’équipe du Domaine Bel Argus, conjuguant jeunesse et expérience, a eu la chance de se fédérer autour du millésime 2018, déjà annoncé comme exceptionnel. 

Elle s’inscrira dans la vision bourguignonne chère à Ivan Massonnat : exprimer la quintessence des terroirs, à travers le prisme du parcellaire, grâce à des sols vivants et une biodiversité protégée. Un vaste plan de restructuration et d’investissement a été lancé, avec pour objectifs prioritaires le soin du matériel végétal et la précision apportée à chaque étape de la vinification. Le Domaine vise à être rapidement 100% certifié en Biodynamie. 

PITHON-PAILLE DEMEURE
A coté du Domaine détenu en propre, subsistera le négoce-artisan « Pithon-Paillé » créé par Jo Pithon il y a 10 ans. L’objectif est de compléter la gamme du Domaine avec les meilleurs terroirs ligériens, en appellations Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, Chinon ou Crémant de Loire. Les gammes seront bien distinctes et s’adresseront, à terme, à des marchés complémentaires.