Two highlights of the IWSC press dinner – Bual and a Ferrari

 1969 Bual Blandy's Madeira 

On Thursday night (17.11.16) I was at Hush in Mayfair for the IWSC press dinner which paired sparkling wines from Ferrari in Trentino against Madeiras from Blandy's. The meal ended on a high with two fine wines – the 1969 Bual from Blandy's and the Ferrari Giulio Riserva del Fondatore 2001. 

The 1969 Bual had that combination of concentration allied with an austere finish, which I find so attractive in old Sherries. Just lovely to sip, although one of my neighbours at table found the finish too harsh and austere. 

The Ferrari Giulio Riserva del Fondatore 2001 has lovely complexity with some honey and brioche character that comes from at least 10 years on its yeasts. Made from 100% Chardonnay from the Maso Pianizza vineyard which is at 500-600 metres exposed to the South-West. This cuvée was first made in 1972.

 

Ferrari Giulio Riserva del Fondatore 2001

Matteo Lunelli of Ferrari, Trento DOC

the outgoing president of the IWSC competition

Chris Blandy of Blandy's Madeira, 

the incoming president of IWSC

Trentino: visit to Ferrari

 Ferrari: entrance to the winery complex

Our second visit was to Ferrari, who stand way above the other Trentodoc producers in terms of quality. (More text to add.)

Ferrari: museum of old implements in the cellar (above and below)

 

Degorging machine specially commissioned from France – made of silver to avoid spoiling wine!

 Ferrari Trento DOC: bottles sur latte 

Camilla Lunelli amongst the stainless steel vat

 Marcello Ferrari tasting

 Signor George thru several glasses

Camilla and Marcello Lunelli: the two cousins

'Bollicine su Trento'*: tasting of old vintages

Glass with a view advertising - Bollicene su Trento

Glass and poster

This morning a tasting of old vintages from five different Trentodoc companies was held in the Palazzo Roccabruna. Fifteen wines (three each) were shown from Abate Nero, Altemasi di Cavit, Az Vinicola Metius, Instituto Agr. di S.Michele and Ferrari F.IIi Lunelli. Vintages ranged from 2007 back to 1991.

Trentodoc uses just Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with Chardonnay normally making up the majority of any blends, except for Rosé Trentodoc. Minimum aging is 24 months for a 'normal' cuvée and 36 months for a Riserva. Minimum in Champagne is 15 months, while for Cava it is 9. Many of the Trentino vineyards are at high altitude even up to 800 metres. Some 3000 ha are devoted to the production of Trentodoc giving a current production of just under nine million bottles with 12% of the Italian market for sparkling wine.

Because of the cool climate conditions the wines are often lemony and mineral, although tasting the old vintages revealed considerable variations between both the five companies and the different vintages.

I thought the three wines from Ferrari – 2001, 1994 and 1991 – stood out way above the rest of the flight with their richness, complexity and real toasty, honey character. All three of these wines were dégorged in 2010, so the 1991 had nearly 20 years on its lees. The Ferrari wines come from their Maso Pianizza vineyard at an altitude of 500-600 metres. These are memorable wines and ones to match with food or to share with discerning friends as an aperitif accompanied with some tapas.

A trio of Ferraris

No wonder Mauro Lunelli is pleased with the Ferrari wines!

The other trio that I liked were much younger: the 2006, 2005 and 2002 Methius Riservas from Metius, which showed considerable variation between the vintages.

I particularly liked the delicacy of the aromatic 2006 and the minerality and steely acidity of the 2002.The quite rich 2005 seemed quite evolved but like the other two was complex and well balanced.

Metius produces 75,000 bottles a year with the Riserva accounting for 15,000.

Delphine Veissiere, who commented on the wines

Forest of glasses...

Trentodoc glass

Self-portrait in a spittoon..

Map of Trentodoc

* 'Bollicene su Trento': I typed this into 'approximativo-translations' and it came up with 'Bollocks in Trento'! I had my doubts about this so checked during the tasting. Bollicene are bubbles, so it's Bubbles in Trento not Bollocks!