VinoVision: new wine fair for the producers of Central and Northern France

Sancerre heads to Paris again 

– a cross to bear for the Salon des Vins de Loire? 

The first edition of VinoVision (Burgundy, Champagne Loire) has just been announced for 2017 – to be held in Paris running from Sunday 12th to Tuesday 14th February. For the first time there will be a wine fair in Paris for professionals incorporating wines from Burgundy, Champagne and the Loire.

It will be very interesting to see how successful VinoVision will be and what the implications will be for the Salon des Vins de Loire. 

Benoît Roumet (Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins du Centre Loire): "The problem for the Salon des Vins de Loire is that by itself the Loire just isn't big enough to attract enough foreign importers. Combining Burgundy, Champagne and the Loire and holding the Salon in Paris it should attract importers from all around the world. Alsace might want to be included in future editions of VinoVision"

Press release:

Salon professionnel des Vins Septentrionaux

'VinoVision Paris:

Le Nouveau Salon International des Vins Septentrionaux à Paris du 12 au 14 février 2017.

Paris aura enfin son grand Salon du Vin professionnel pour prendre le temps de découvrir la richesse et le potentiel des vignobles septentrionaux. C’est également la première fois que des organisations professionnelles viticoles s’associent pour créer un grand Salon du Vin à Paris.

Les Interprofessions des Vins du Val de Loire, du Centre-Loire, de Bourgogne et le Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne s'associent à Comexposium pour créer VinoVision Paris, le premier Salon professionnel des Vins Septentrionaux, qui s'inscrira dans l'agenda international des Grands Salons du Vin. Les acteurs des autres régions septentrionales sont invités à rejoindre cette initiative.

Ces vignobles se sont imposés mondialement avec le Champagne, leurs effervescents, leurs vins blancs de référence, leurs rosés et leurs rouges de plaisir et de gastronomie. Leurs cépages, le sauvignon, le chardonnay, le chenin, les pinots, les cabernets et tant d’autres…connaissent un rayonnement international.

Paris méritait ce grand Salon des Vins. Historiquement, les vignobles de la Loire, de la Champagne et de la Bourgogne, et plus généralement des régions septentrionales, sont les vignobles de la capitale, par leur proximité géographique, par la force de l’histoire et par leur présence à la table du Roi puis dans les restaurants parisiens.

Ce sera un salon annuel, à taille humaine, dans le hall 4 de la Porte de Versailles. 650 exposants sont attendus sur 15 000m² pour la première édition, qui se tiendra du 12 au 14 Février 2017.

Ce Salon propose une nouvelle vision du vin : s’inspirer des attentes des acheteurs français et internationaux, à la recherche de vins accessibles dans des appellations prestigieuses, et apporter une réponse à ces nouveaux modes de consommation, de la gastronomie aux plaisirs quotidiens.

L’attractivité de Paris, son accessibilité et son rayonnement mondial faciliteront l’accès des acheteurs. Près de 10,000 spécialistes français et internationaux des différents circuits de distribution de la filière Vin sont attendus (import/export, CHR, cavistes et magasins spécialisés, GMS et e-commerce), faisant de VinoVision Paris un outil essentiel de développement en France et à l’export. 

VinoVision Paris pourrait accueillir ultérieurement des vignobles étrangers et comparables dans la perspective de devenir une vitrine mondiale.

Ce projet entre désormais dans sa phase opérationnelle. Les principales filières viticoles septentrionales de la France ont créé une association chargée de piloter, avec Comexposium, la mise en œuvre de ce projet ambitieux.

 

Contacts Interprofessions/Syndicats :

InterLoire

Claire Duchêne – c.duchene@vinsvaldeloire.fr – 06.03.82.35.63

Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins du Centre Loire

Benoit Roumet – benoit.roumet@vins-centre-loire.com – 06.08.03.74.54

Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne

Tetiana Poleva – tpoleva@sgv-champagne.fr – 06.03.31.47.22

Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne

Pascal Loridon – pascal-loridon@bivb.com – 03.80.25.04.91'

Hail hits part of Burgundy for 3rd year running

Vouvray: 23rd September 2014: still unrepaired 

damage from 17th June 2013 storm

To date Loire vineyards have fortunately escaped 

serious hail damage this year.

Here is a very moving report from scott paul wines on yesterday's violent storm that hit Meursault, Volnay, Pommard, and Beaune. All the more devastating as the 2014 crop had been looking very good:

'Violent hail in the vineyards – a report from Volnay
Yesterday afternoon at 5:15pm, the Côte de Beaune was hit with a violent hailstorm, destroying 50-90% of the potentially beautiful crop that was hanging in the vineyards in Meursault, Volnay, Pommard, and Beaune. This was the third year in a row that these villages were hit with a devastating storm. As if that were not bad enough, this will now be the fifth year in a row with a very tiny crop, as 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2013 all produced a fraction of what a “normal” year would bring. Over those four years, they produced about two years worth of wine. As you can well imagine, the effects of this will be beyond devastating for many of Burgundy’s producers of all sizes.'

Read the rest here. 

So tough to face a series of natural disasters resulting in several very short vintages and all the financial implications this brings. It was noticeable during June in the Loire how the spirits and morale of the producers rose as they could see that they had cleared two major hurdles during the growing season – no frost despite a very early budbreak and a successful flowering in ideal conditions during June. One could literally see them breathe more easily! 

Of course there is a long way to go yet, so fingers firmly crossed!   

 

Petit Pressigny tasting: Monday 31st March 2014 – Domaine Perrin à Ladoix Serrigny

Xavier Fortin in his cellar: August 2011

 Bonjour à toutes et tous, 

Après la dernière dégustation bourguignonne, ou malheureusement les quantités trop faibles n’ont pu satisfaire tout le monde, je vous propose de venir déguster les vins du domaine PERRIN à Ladoix Serrigny en côte d’or (entre Beaune et Dijon). Les dégustations seront un peu rapprochées mais Mr Perrin se rend à un salon de vins bio, et nous propose de nous faire découvrir ses vins lors de son retour le lundi 31 mars 2014 à partir de 16 heures.  

Ne vous attendez pas à des vins puissants et tanniques, ses vins sont au contraire légers, gourmands, fins et élégants. Les élevages se font en fut mais le bois ne marque pas ses vins. De plus les vins proposés seront prêts à boire et nous aurons le plaisir de déguster des millésimes assez anciens.

LADOIX BLANC 1ER CRU SUR LES VIRS 2011

Chardonnay 100 % - Une belle acidité, beaucoup de matière et gras à souhait. Cette bouteille accompagnera à merveille Saint Jacques, poisson en sauce et viande blanche. – 18 € TTC la bouteille

BOURGOGNE VIELLES VIGNES ROUGES 2008

100 % pinot noir – Léger et tellement fin ; cette « petite « cuvée est déjà pleine de charme. Elle accompagnera toutes vos grillades ou vos viandes rôties. – 12 € TTC la bouteille

HAUTES COTES DE NUITS 2007
100 % pinot noir – Souvent mal aimé, les 2007 sont boudés… alors venez gouter une petite appellation sur un petit millésime. Je vous promets que vous ne perdrez pas votre temps. . – 14 € TTC la bouteille.

LADOIX LES –LES BRIQUOTTES ROUGE 2009

100 % pinot noir – Puissant et riche, ce 2009 reste élégant. A boire maintenant sur une pièce de boeuf ou à garder un peu en cave. - 18 € TTC la bouteille

ALOXE CORTON - LES BOUTIERES 2010
Certainement le plus beau terroir du nord de la Cote de Beaune, ce vin est fin et puissant, pas de lourdeur dans ce beau pinot noir classe et élégant. A boire maintenant sur des viandes rouges en sauce ou à garder encore quelques années en cave. . - 24 € TTC la bouteille.Au plaisir de vous voir à cette dégustation.
La cave où aura lieu la dégustation sera fléchée à partir de la boucherie du Petit Pressigny elle se trouve à environ 200 mètres du restaurant. Si toute fois vous êtes dans l’impossibilité de venir gouter lors de notre dégustation veuillez me faire parvenir votre commande accompagnée de votre chèque à l’ordre de Domaine PERRIN Christian à mon adresse: Xavier Fortin « Plein ciel » 6, Chemin des Coteaux - 37350 Le Petit Pressigny

A très bientôt, Xavier

***

Dear all,

For our next wine tasting on Monday the 31 th of March from 4:00 pm to 8:00 pm. I would like to introduce you Mr PERRIN’ s Burgundy.

Mr Perrin is an organic winemaker and all his wines are fine elegant and very tasty.

LADOIX BLANC 1ER CRU SUR LES VRIS 2011 – 18 € TTC la bouteille

100 % Chardonnay – all lot of body with a touch of acidity no oack flavour just the fruit and the terroir. It will be perfect with scallops and all your fish with a butter sauce.

BOURGOGNE VIELLES VIGNES ROUGES 2008 – 12 € TTC la bouteille
Light but this 100 % pinot noir as got very soft tanin the mouth is full of little red fruit. Will be fine with all your next summer BBQ.

HAUTES COTES DE NUITS 2007 – 14 € TTC la bouteille
100 % pinot noir – Very light but with a lot of flavor where leather and cherries are dominated. Fine with all your poultry or white meat.

LADOIX LES –LES BRIQUOTTES ROUGE 2009 – 18 € TTC la bouteille
Superb balance for this 100 % pinot noir. Body acidity tanin every think is just right. The flavour is rich and full of red fruit jam. Drink it with roast red meat or forget it for a while in your cellar.

ALOXE CORTON - LES BOUTIERES 2010 - 24 € TTC la bouteille
The best terroir of the north of the Cote de Beaune. Still 100 % pinot noir but more concentration more body more flavour. You can drink it now with beef stew or game but if you keep it 4 or 5 years it will be perfect with white meat and truffle.

If you are unable to attend this wine tasting and require some of these wines please send your order with your cheque made out to Domaine PERRIN Christian at my cave address here under

XAVIER FORTIN - “ PLEIN CIEL” - 6, CHEMIN DES COTEAUX - 37350 LE PETIT PREESIGNY France

And I will keep your wines until you fetch it.

Sincerely, XAVIER

P.S some signs will be in place in the village to help you to find my cave

Neal Martin's Pomerol and the electronic Jasper Morris MW

Berry Bros & Rudd in St James's, London

The UK wine trade and press are now in full swing tasting the 2011 Burgundies en primeur. Apparently there are 27 different Burgundy tastings going on over the next ten days or so. One the tastings yesterday was held by Berry Bros & Rudd.

Neal Martin and his Pomerol book – a serious boy with a serious book 

Here I caught up with Neal Martin and his recently published book on Pomerol. Neal has published this himself and it has taken three years of hard work. It has 592 pages and is priced at £50 plus p&p. It can be ordered through his pomerolbook website. The fine black and white photos are by Swedish photographer Johan Berglund. Although I only caught a quick glimpse of the book, I'm sure knowing Neal that it will be very detailed, thorough and informative.  

Photo by Johan Berglund from the sample chapter available on pomerolbook  

***

 A quizzical Jasper Morris MW – man about town 

rather different from his Burgundian persona

 

The electronic Jasper Morris MW 

Prominent at the tasting was the electronic Côte de Beaune by Jasper Morris MW being shown on the latest version of Apple's iPad – thought to be iPad 5, though it might have been version 4, which came out in November. The Côte de Beaune is the first part of Jasper's award winning Inside Burgundy published by Berry Bros & Rudd in 2010. It has been revised and made interactive by Seagrave Foulkes (Carrie Segrave, Chris Foulkes and Lizzie Ballantyne).  

The app now has hundreds of colour photos, zoomable maps, videos of Jasper in the vineyards plus the ability to make and share your own notes, etc. It also includes Jasper's 2012/13 annual report.  

Chris explained that the program they used was originally designed for producing text books and that they had adapted it. So successfully that Apple apparently say that this is the best book adaptation for the iPad and will be showing it to a group of techie journalists today. The Côte de Beaune app is available through the iBookstore. 

 

Chris Foulkes showing off the electronic Jasper

The Foulkes-Segrave family with their iPads featuring the electronic Jasper

            

New book: The Finest Wines of Burgundy

The Finest Wines of Burgundy by Bill Nanson with photos by Jon Wyand £20, 320 pages  

I recently received a copy of this new book on Burgundy – the lastest in the World of Fine Wines in cooperation with Aurum Press. The text is written by Bill Nanson, author of the highly respected on-line Burgundy Report, while the photos are by Jon Wyand. Jon is a very fine photographer and Burgundy is his particular passion. I haven't yet had time to read all of Bill's text but have had time to look through Jon's photos to see how an expert goes about their work and get some tips on how to improve my portrait photos, while trying to avoid copying!

Helping Japan: two sales of Burgundy in Paris to raise money for Japan

Wine in the cellars of Patriarche

David Cobbold reports today on Les 5 du Vin on two sales of Burgundy organised in Paris by Bourgogne-Solidarité-Japon to raise money for Japan following the earthquake and tsunami in March. 

Promoting Bourgueil – Bourgundy?

Statue on roundabout and the slope of the vineyards

Now that Bourgueil and its producers have left InterLoire they are having to work out how to promote their appellation and their wines. Yesterday I had a call from Claire Gressieux, who is working with Guillaume Lapaque, director of AOC Bourgueil, on an audit which will help to develop a strategy for how to promote Bourgueil.

It was an interesting call and provoked me to think how one might go about promoting AC Bourgueil with its 1400 hectares of vines and an annual production of around 70,000 hls (8,700,000 bottles).

My first reaction is rather them than me! What symbols might spark people's imagination? Tough question I think.

Unlike neighbouring Chinon, Bourgueil doesn't have a picturesque and historic château overlooking La Vienne with a pretty town below and some medieval buildings still remaining. Unfortunately François Rabelais was born at La Devinière, near Chinon, and not at Restigné or Benais. True Bourgueil does have its abbey – l'abbaye Saint-Pierre de Bourgueil-en-Vallée, founded in 990 – and Jean Carmet, a French actor who starred in many films. However, the abbey doesn't dominate as the château does Chinon and I suspect that outside France, while the name Jean Carmet doubtless is well known by film buffs, it means little to the general public.

So what are the strong points that might build up the image of the wines of Bourgueil? Certainly from top producers it is among the best Loire reds and in good vintages will easily age for 15 years and more in great vintages. Typically it is more apparently tannic and 'masculine' than Chinon, which tends to be softer and more 'feminine'. This can mean that in some vintages Bourgueil needs more time before it is really attractive.

When I was asked what was distinctive about the wines of Bourgueil my response was there is nothing to really distinguish them from neighbouring Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. A Bourgueil from gravel vineyards is likely to be virtually indistinguishable from a Saint-Nicolas from the same type of terroir and similarly for wines from the clay limestone coteaux. I strongly suspect that the differences in style of wines from a similar terroir here owe more to differences between the producers than real differences between the two appellations. Driving along the D35, which bypasses Bourgueil town to the north, it is impossible to tell from the landscape where the vines of Bourgueil end and those of Saint-Nicolas begin. I suspect that if the appellations were to be fully revised today, there would only be one appellation here – AOP Bourgueil-Saint-Nicolas or similar.

There is an attractive sweep of vineyards that runs 14 kilometres from Saint-Patrice in the east to Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil in the west. Arguably the closest feature that the Loire has to Burgundy's Côte d'Or. It does, of course, largely face south and is nothing like as famous. But it may be something on which to build. I would consider renaming the appellation – Bourgundy. This would certainly alleviate the difficulty many people in the UK have in pronouncing 'Bourgueil'. The Burgundians might well not be best pleased and could well resort to law but there is nothing like a high profile court case for raising your own profile!

Remington Norman: Grand Cru

Grand Cru by Remington Norman

I am now reading Remington Norman's Grand Cru – the great wines of Burgundy through the perspective of its finest vineyards £40 (Kyle Cathie Ltd). Grand Cru was published at the end of last year and is the companion volume to Remington's The Great Domaines of Burgundy, which was revised last year with Charles Taylor MW contributing. As the title suggests the book is very much focused on the vineyards and solely on those of the Côte d'Or – the world's most precisely classified vineyards. 

Remington is forthright in his opinions and is particularly scathing of the treatment that Burgundy get from the hands of some writers and journalists. 

'These pages are not written for those in search of specific recommendations or assessments of individual wines; nor will they trivialise great wine with scores where half a point seems to make the difference between 'must buy' and 'leave alone'. The reader will perhaps also be relieved to be spared the mind-numbing litany of tasting notes which passes for expertise in some quarters. Fine wine is emphatically not defined by 'gobs' of super-ripe fruit, 'decadent' alcohol', 'lashings' of new wood or anything that such crude epithets must suggest. Too many published tasting notes are little more than lists of aromas and flavours, set forth presumably in the belief that this amounts to some kind of understanding. Clotted nonsense, of course; strings of descriptors do not equate to any kind of discernment. In any case, it is facile to assume that a descripton, however complete, or a numerical score convey anything that is truly important about a great wine. Genuine understanding transcends such banalities.'

I agree with Remington I think tasting notes are of limited use. They are a snap shot of a wine at a particular time and to imagine that they will have a long currency is mistaken. They rarely have a relevance in a book although they may be relevant on a blog or article written soon after tasting the wine.

Equally I prefer not to use scores whether they are out of 5,10, 20, 100 or 10,000. I do use them in articles when this is editorial policy and in wine competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards.   

Remington also deplores the arrival of 'trophy hunters' to Burgundy attracted by 'rarity and high prices'. "Whereas genuine wine lovers appreciate that there is pleasure and value to be found at every level and drink across the board, 'cash connoisseurs' don't seem content unless they are drinking highly rated Bordeaux or Grand Cru Burgundy. While not endorsing Clive Coates' ruthless prescription that 'those who only drink first growths because it is beneath their dignity to drink anything else ... are idiots and should be lined upo and shot', one cannot but feel it truly disheartening to find vinous treasures in the hands of people whose limit of appreciation barely transcends knowing their rarity and cost.' 

May well return to Grand Cru later when I have finished it. In the meantime Grand Cru is a stimulating read. 

Two new publications: Jasper Morris - Burgundy – and Baudry-Dutour website

I have recently received my review copy of Inside Burgundy by Jasper Morris MW (£50 inc delivery). This is the first volume in a new publishing project by Berry Bros & Rudd. Although a little disappointed that it is not called the Sex Lives of the Burgundians as originally titled by Jasper, it is clear even on a brief perusal that this J'espére Maurice as he is known in Bué, near Sancerre, has a deep knowledge and love for the region and its wines. Hardback with 656 pages and detailed maps.

••

Winery@Baudry-Dutour

Message about Baudry-Dutour's revamped website:

Depuis  quelques mois nous consacrons tous nos loisirs à la rénovation en profondeur de notre site Internet.

Cela n’a l’air de rien, mais demande un travail titanesque. Aussi nous sommes fiers de vous présenter notre travail : www.baudry-dutour.fr <http://www.baudry-dutour.fr> . En particulier nous vous conseillons le visionnage des petites vidéos de présentation de chacune de nos propriétés.

Lors de votre « navigation », si vous rencontrez un problème, n’hésitez pas à nous en faire part. Nous pourrons peut-être y remédier avant que la horde des curieux ne s’engouffre.

Nous attendons avec impatience vos commentaires : info@baudry-dutour.fr.

 

Two new wine tours from La Grande Maison

2009 Cabernet Franc – Chinon

Cabernet Franc Ambassadors Wine Tour of the Loire

'Q. Why select Ambassadors for Cabernet Franc?

A. The UK Palate for red wine has historically been trained on Bordeaux blends, that of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a little Cabernet Franc. So coming to the Cabernet Franc, in the Loire, as a single varietal has traditionally been hard on the palate. This has been due to the grape not fully ripening in the cooler climate, which in turn leaves green/hard tannins. So a team at Interloire have been quietly working away on a 5 year Cabernet Franc Project to find the best Cabernet Franc wines in the Loire Valley.'

Mont Ventoux that dominates the southern Rhône vineyards

Two Centre Wine Tours i.e.: Loire/Burgundy – Loire/Rhône

Micaela and Sue: 'On another tack we have just partnered with Burgundy Discovery and Rhone

Wine Holidays to offer Two Centre Wine Tours i.e.: Loire/Burgundy – Loire/Rhône