Pascal Nathalie and Rémy Joulin: Domaine Michel Vattan

 Pascal and Nathalie Joulin and their son – Rémy

(above and below)

After three weeks in Epeigné-les-Bois, we had a three-night stay in Chavignol (11th-14th April) before heading back to the UK.  

 

On Sunday morning there was was time to spend just over an hour with Pascal Joulin (Domaine Michel Vattan) to taste the unbottled 2014s and a few previous vintages in bottle. Again the vibrant, clean and finely balanced 2014s impressed. From the bottled wines I enjoyed the texture and length of the 2013 Argile, Sancerre Blanc and the more concentrated and beginning to evolve 2012 Les L.O., which has an intriguing touch of bitterness in the long finish. Pascal releases L.O. only in good vintages – 2002, 2006, 2010, 2012 and most probably 2014.

I first met Pascal back in the early 1990s when he was at the La Cave des Hauts de Seyr in the Coteaux Charitois. La Cave was bought by Alphonse Mellot – I think in 2005 (confirmation would be good) and is now called Domaine des Pénitents. There is a previous Jim's Loire post on Pascal from the 2011 harvest here.   

Following our tasting we had a quick look at some of his vineyards high up on the steep slopes above the little village of Maimbray. We discussed the problem of erosion on these steep slopes and the role grassing over the vineyards and careful cultivation plays in reducing water runoff. Pascal explained that he leaves the prunings amongst the vines which further helps to slow down rainwater. Sancerre can be prone to severe storms. Pascal showed me a video on his phone of a summer storm last year – a track transformed into a raging torrent.

 Pascal's vines above Mainbray with Sury-en-Vaux in the hollow 

(above and below)

Looking down towards Mainbray

2011 Loire vintage: Sancerre – Pascal Joulin c/o Domaine Michel Vattan

Pascal Joulin 

It was good to meet Pascal Joulin again on Thursday. I first met Pascal back in the early 1990s when he was looking after La Cave des Hauts de Seyr in the Coteaux Charitois. Then he moved to the Domaine de la Grange just beyond the limits of the Pouilly-Fumé appellation. I visited him once there and then lost touch. Happily Pascal got back in touch with me when the Domaine Michel Vattan 2010 Cuvée Argile won a bronze medal at this year's Decanter World Wine Awards.  

In 2002 Pascal had moved to Sancerre to work with Michel Vattan in Maimbray, just up from the chai of Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy. In 2008 he took over the 9 hectare domaine on Michel's retirement. Prior to his arrival the wines went to the cooperative or the négoce, Pascal has developed the domaine's direct sales. Now 65% of the production goes on export – Norway, United States and some to The Sampler in the UK .   

Pascal in his old vines overlooking Maimbray 

Pascal: "We started picking on Wednesday 7th beginning with the Pinot Noir. The ban des Vendanges was on the 1st but the grapes weren't ripe then so I preferred to wait, even so the harvest was three weeks in advance of 2010. Then the following day we started on the Sauvignon Blanc. The 3rd September we had had a sharp storm with 22mm of rain in just 15 minutes. Waiting until the 7th following the potential degree rise to 12.5% and the level of tartaric acidity go up.

"I have 1.30ha of Pinot Noir – 0.70 ares goes to make rosé and 0.6 ares goes to make red. This year we had to cut off 30% of the Pinot Noir and throw it on the ground because of rot. Even having grass in the vineyards made a big difference this year.

"Everything is picked by machine at the moment but I want to move to picking the Pinot Noir by ahdn as soon as possible. My Pinot is planted on the caillottes. I did have some planted on the terres blanches (clay and limestone) at the bottom of the slope but it never ripened, so I've pulled it out.

My aim with the red is to make a typical light, easy drinking Loire red, so I use a short cuvaison so as not to extract too much tannin."    

Pascal Joulin and Domaine Michel Vattan

Autumn colours@Maimbray

I was very pleased yesterday to get an email from Pascal Joulin, who I first met around 1995 when he was working for the La Cave des Hauts de Seyr in the Coteaux Charitois. He was making Chardonnay from vines planted in the Montaillant vineyard and Pinot Noir from vines at Saint-Lay. I think I first met Pascal in London at a tasting, impressed by the wines I later went to visit him at Hauts de Seyr. Much later La Cave des Hauts de Seyr ran into financial problems and in 2005 it was bought by Alphonse Mellot who renamed it Les Pénitents.

In 1998 Pascal moved on to Domaine des Granges in Suilly la Tour. Here he made vin de pays de la Nièvre as the property is just outside the Pouilly-Fumé appellation. In 2002 he moved to AC Sancerre to Domaine Michel Vattan in Mainbray. When Michel Vattan retired in 2008 Pascal bought the domaine, which has 7.80 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and 1.30 ha of Pinot Noir. This year at the Decanter World Wine Awards we gave the 2010 Cuvée Argile from Domaine Michel Vattan a bronze medal. In the UK his wines are imported by The Sampler.

I think the last time I saw Pascal was when he was at Domaine des Granges, so I'm delighted he has made contact and brought me up to date and I look forward to meeting him again when I'm in Sancerre.