Jacky Blot – first 5-star Loire producer but irony of ironies no mention of Vouvray!

 Jacky Blot in the Clos de Venise,
Vin de France Vouvray
2.10.2015

Leaving aside the weather conditions in the Loire during 2017, which I hope will be much more benevolent than 2016, I have little optimism for 2017 as I fear we will be living with the consequences of 2016. 

However, during 2017 I would love to see the nonsense of François Chidaine and Jacky Blot being denied the Vouvray appellation because they vinifiy in their facilities in Montlouis. The legislation appears to be clear – Montlouis is a neighbouring commune to Vouvray, so the law permits producers to vinify in a neighbouring commune, especially as the limits of the commune of Vouvray traverses the Loire directly touching Montlouis on the south side. 

Here is a brief report from La Nouvelle République on Jacky Blot becoming the first Loire producer to achieve five stars in the prestigious Bettane et Desseauve guide. No mention of Vouvray in the report – a consequence of Jacky's Vouvrays being labelled as Vin de France. 

In English we have an expression 'cutting off your nose to spite your face' – entirely appropriate here!      

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'Cinq étoiles au milieu d'une année noire

Au top. Vigneron audacieux au profil atypique, Jacky Blot a décroché le Graal au mois de septembre en se voyant décerner une cinquième étoile – la distinction suprême – par le guide du vin Bettane et Desseauve, la « bible » des amateurs de grands crus. Le producteur de Montlouis, qui possède également un domaine dans le Bourgueillois, est ainsi le premier vigneron tourangeau à faire son entrée dans le Gotha de la viticulture française, parmi les Petrus, Margaux, Romanée-Conti, Yquem ou Bollinger. Belle consécration pour cet ancien militaire devenu négociant en vin, avant de cultiver ses premiers arpents de vignes en 1988.

La Nouvelle République 28th December 2016 

With James Millton (Millton Vineyards, NZ) in the Loire (21.6.2014) – part 3

James Millton with Jacky Blot (Domaine de la Taille aux Loups) 

Saturday morning was spent with Jacky Blot. Again the emphasis was very much on visiting vineyards with just a little time at the end to taste a few 2013 Montlouis and Vouvrays from barrel. We started with Jacky's Vouvray vineyards – the Clos de la Bretonnière and the Clos de Venise. 

Although I have regularly visited Jacky's vines in Montlouis along with Domaine de la Butte in Bourgueil this was the first time I had managed to get to his Vouvray vineyards. I had been due to visit them in April but the day chosen turned out to be wet and unpleasant, so we postponed it.

Clos de la Bretonnière is a four-hectare plot in Noizay on clay, which makes it difficult to work. Clay rapidly goes from being too heavy and claggy to work if its is too wet to rock hard if it is too dry – it is rarely a happy medium. Hirtherto Jacky has rented the vines but as the château attached to the Clos has now been sold he is now able to buy the Clos, which he is the process of doing. Prices of vineyards in Vouvray remain substantially higher than those in Montlouis. Jacky is convinced that there is a close correlation between the price of an appellation's bulk wine and the price of their vineyards. A hectolitre of bulk wine in Vouvray is about three times the price of Montlouis, so land is correspondingly more expensive. 

We then moved onto the Clos de Venise at Vernou-sur-Brenne. This is a one-hectare monopole on clay and flint making the soil lighter and easier to work. Both Bretonnière and Venise are on the premier côtes overlooking the Loire. This is where the best sites in Vouvray are, whether all of the premier côtes fulfil their potential is, of course, another matter.  

 

Jacky Blot in the Clos de Venise, Vernou (above and below)

 Flowering nearly finished with an even 

and quick set in ideal conditions 

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