Henri Bourgeois (Chavignol) – one aspect of their success

Jean-Christophe and Arnaud Bourgeois 

19th September 2017 – during the harvest

One of the big characteristics of wine production in the Loire is the continuing importance of the family. Many of the domaines are family owned and run. For me this is one of the charms and attractions of the wines from the Loire Valley.

Obviously when families work well together they can find great success. Equally when things go wrong, as almost inevitably they do within some families from time to time, the splits and consequences can be particularly bitter and rancorous. 

Cousins Jean-Christophe and Arnaud Bourgeois feature in the photo above. I have the strong sense of a team of team working well together. In September I saw Jean-Christophe at the highest level of their winery in Chavignol where grapes are unloaded, sorted and pressed. He rapidly arranged for Arnaud, when he was free, to come and let me taste the 2017 juices. 

Arnaud, the youngest son of patriarch – Jean-Marie Bourgeois – is increasingly the public face of Henri Bourgeois, while Jean-Christophe is in charge of wine-making. Lionel, Arnaud's elder brother, is in charge of the vineyards and has a much less of a public profile than Arnaud. 

Henri Bourgeois based in Chavignol, part of the commune of   

If there are any tensions with the Bourgeois family operation I have never been aware of them over the many years I have been visiting – I first met Jean-Marie Bourgeois in late October 1989. 

I am sure that the ability of the Bourgeois family to work together on complementary roles and tasks has been a major contributory factor in their enormous success. 

In contrast one only has to look at the very sad and acrimonious split within the Couly family at Couly Dutheil (Chinon) between the late Jacques Couly and his son Arnaud and Pierre Couly, Jacques elder brother, and his son Bertrand – now Pierre and Bertrand Couly.  

Jean-Marie Bourgeois 

in a vineyard above Chavignol late October 2014

 

 

 

Sancerre – shameful vandalism attributed to IGP nonsense

 

'Rififi dans le Sancerre: arrachage sauvage de plus de 5.000 pieds de vigne

Publié le 19/07/16 par Le Figaro Vin

Un viticulteur du Sancerrois a porté plainte ce week-end contre l'arrachage sauvage de 5.600 pieds de sauvignon sur une parcelle à Saint-Satur (Cher).'

Lire la suite 

On Saturday morning a vigneron based in Bué discovered that his recently planted parcel apparently at La Cabarette, Saint-Satur had been vandalised with 5600 vines uprooted – an estimated damage of 12,000€. The vigneron is said by Decanter to be Jean-Jacques Auchere. 

The shameful vandalism has been widely attributed to the tensions and controversy over the right to plant Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir close to appellations. These tensions are particularly strong in Sancerre.

In the FranceBleu article Gilles Guillerault, president of the Sancerre producers, is quoted as saying: 'ce geste d'exaspération ne l'étonne pas .... il se déclare désolé mais c'était prévisible puisque les négotiations avec l'état n'avancent pas pour resteindre la liste des cépages en IGP en Centre Loire'.

Frankly I'm not surprised that négotiations haven't produced the result that the Sancerre producers want. I can see no good reason why it shouldn't be possible to plant both Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc for IGP wines in Centre Loire. Instead their objections are foolishly protectionist and send out very negative signals regarding how fragile they see Sancerre's reputation.

One of the reasons advanced for a ban on planting Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir destined for IGP in the Centre Loire is that it would be easy to blend IGP with appellation wine in a winery where both types of wine are made. This ignores that some of the leading respected producer négociant companies, such as Henri Bourgeois and Joseph Mellot, already make both AC and IGP wines in the same winery. The Henri Bourgeois Le Petit Bourgeois and Joseph Mellot Destinea are both IGP ranges, featuring both Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, made in their facilities in Sancerre. 

At their winery in Chavignol I have frequently tasted Petit Bourgeois, Sancerre, and Pouilly-Fumé from stainless vats all in the same area. Are the protesters really suggesting that Henri Bourgeois and Joseph Mellot blend their IGP wines into their Sancerre or that they are even tempted to do so?!

Jean-Christophe Bourgeois sources Petit Bourgeois from around Touraine. What would be the difference if it was sourced from IGP vines close to Sancerre? Why the objection?

If it were possible to sell IGP Sancerre, then I could understand the complaints but any IGP wines made from vines planted close to Sancerre etc. have to be labelled IGP Val de Loire. 

A number of Central Vineyard appellations, such as Menetou-Salon, Reuilly and Sancerre who make pure 100% Pinot Noir, already enjoy protection provided by the INAO, who will not allow pure Pinot Noir in appellations like Coteaux du Giennois, Châteaumeillant, Saint-Pourçain and the Côtes d'Auvergne. Pinots from these appellations have to include Gamay.

Hopefully whoever vandalised these vines will be told to stop as this sort of vicious action is very damaging to Sancerre's reputation. 

     

    

 

 

    

#DWCC15: Sancerre and Savennières @BYOB

2005 MD Sancerre, Henri Bourgeois

We are now in Plodiv at #DWCC2015 (Dreadfully Waterlogged Communicators Conference). Last evening we reached the BYOB event in Noah-like conditions. Our two wines – 2005s from Sancerre and Savennières – both were excellent and memorable.

The idea of the BYOB is to share your bottle with as many people as possible before the contents run out, so last night was a mélange of Jura, Dutch wine, Sauternes, Bulgarian red, London Crew Syrah and Grenache, 1979 Portuguese white and various others.      

2005 Clos le Grand Beaupréau, Savennières, 

Château Pierre-Bise

Sancerre: photos from a glorious April Sunday mainly of Chavignol

 Centre of Chavignol with church with 

part of Henri Bourgeois winery at the top

Across the top: Henri Bourgeois winery

Hotel La Côte des Monts Damnés

run by Jean-Marc et Karine Bourgeois

Chavignol through the vines 

The top of Le Cul de Beaujeu that dominates Chavignol to the south west

You can just see walkers along the track a little below the hut

taking part on an organised randonée with varying distances being offered

Walkers 

 Helpers with refreshments for the walkers 

 Sancerre through the haze

 Amigny – neighbouring village to Chavignol 

Chavignol and Les Monts Damnés vineyards behind 

Signs in Chavignol

Arnaud Bourgeois on his quad bike

2013 Loire Vintage: various photos from our vintage travels

Pinot Noir stems being ejected - Henri Bourgeois

 Sorting Pinot Noir@Henri Bourgeois

View from Clos de la Poussie down to village of Bué

 Picnic above Bué: CRM and Chris Kissack

with provisions mainly bought from charcuterie in Bué

Ubiquitous vans to transport pickers: Alphonse Mellot

It takes a lot of water to make wine! 

Cleaning up equipment@Domaine Vacheron

Amphores are definitely trending..

Without one where is your winery cred?

Part of the Clos du Papillon, Savennières 

above the Château des Vaults  (3.10.2013)

 Clos du Papillon (3.10.13): bunches (above and below) from vines inside walled part

As far as I know no grapes yet picked here on this date.

Vignerons in Anjou were just getting started on early varieties: Grolleau etc.

 

Rot has been a feature of 2013 throughout Loire 

but without (to date) rotten tastes or much concentration

Clos du Papillon: vines to right of the track (as u face the Loire) 

that leads past the Moulin de Gué to the Clos du Papillon 

Richard Kelley has a very good map of the AC here 

Château du Nozet, Ladoucette

Following special request from Eric Florkin dog bite on right calf pics taken a couple of days after event (18.9.13) – now healed up, fortunately. 

Beware the badlands of Saint-Georges-sur-Cher also rampaging braques de weimar!  

Dinner with Michel Smith: 2 out of the 5

 

Brut Zéro from Château de l'Aulée

The night before the start of Les 5 du Vin's stay in Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil last weekend we had dinner with Michel Smith – a good opportunity to limber up for the days to come. 

We started with the lemony and very good value Brut Zéro, Crémant de Loire (7.50€) from Château de l'Aulée in Azay-le-Rideau. With the salad of lettuce, lardons, mushrooms and goats' cheese we had the 2000 Le MD, Sancerre from Henri Bourgeois, which is currently showing well with some quite rich, evolved flavours and good freshness in the finish. For those who preferred a red there was Michel Smith's own delightfully easy drinking 2011 Puch from the Côtes Catalanes made from pure Carignan.           

2000 Le MD, Sancerre, Henri Bourgeois 

2011 Puch, VDP Côtes Catalanes – Michel Smith and friends  

With the free-range chicken, pot roasted with garlic and lemon, we explored the 1997 Côt, AC Touraine from Le Clos Roche Blanche – still wonderfully youthful with the seductive black fruits that has always been a hallmark of the 1997 vintage. We also took a look at the fine 2003 Anjou Villages Brissac from Christophe Daviau's Domaine de Bablut. It has the richness of very ripe fruit from this heatwave year but has freshness too and shows no signs of tiring.     

1997 Côt, AC Touraine, Le Clos Roche Blanche

2003 Anjou-Villages Brissac, Domaine de Bablut 

1988 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert, Domaine Ogereau

1988 has always been in the shadow of 1989 and 1990 that followed and its merits have often be overlooked. This 1988 Layon from Domaine Ogereau has lovely balance – the fruit isn't super-concentrated but there is great harmony between the citric and apricot fruit and the acidity. It reminds me of the marvellous balance that 2002 has and it went wonderfully well with the small selection of cheese.

1990 Moelleux, Cuvée Céline, Pascal Delaleu, Vouvray 

As you would expect this 1990 Delaleu Vouvray was richer than the 1988 and still very youthful. It proved to be a good match with baked peaches in Muscat and also to sip after dinner – an appropriate way to finish our soirée de la modération.