2017 Loire in Anjou – Anne, Marie & Yves Guegniard, Emmanuel, Catherine and Vincent Ogereau

Yesterday we headed across westwards to Anjou to check on progress with the 2017 harvest. We were well aware that the 2017 harvest is virtually over. We dropped in the see the Guegniard family – Anne, Marie, Marie-Annick and Yves (Domaine de la Bergerie) – and also caught up with Jean-Michel Monnier, their wine consultant who happened to be visiting at the same time.

They have virtually finished the harvest – there just remain a couple of tris in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume. Picking started pretty early on 4th September. Fortunately they have been less hit by frost in 2017 than they were last year. However, in the Moulin de Beaupreau (Savennières), which they share with the Ogereaus and Papins, was badly hit by frost where they lost two thirds. The Ogereaus lost even more – virtually 100%. Luckily the Guiegniard family's La Croix Pichot, a parcel further east in the Savennières appellation was not hit by the frost. The Guegniards' La Croix Pichot is excellent and offers very good value at just under 14 euros from the estate. 

Unusually in 2017 the Cabernet here on schist was picked earlier than the Cabernet on limestone in Saumur – normally it is the other way round. 

On 4th October they did their first tri in the Quarts de Chaume, which came in at 21˚ potential, while Chaume was at 20˚. This year for the first time they have made an Anjou Sec from golden grapes in Chaume. The aim is to eventually create a Anjou Villages 1er Cru from a range of recognised sectors each with their own name. The intention is to give the top dry whites from the Anjou Blanc appellation great cachet than they currently have. Producers in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume are apparently the furthest advanced. However, I suspect that it will be some considerable time before this new designation will be accepted by the INAO and come to fruition.  

       Anne, Jean-Michel, Marie, Yves and CRM 

 Jean-Michel Monnier takes a sample from their 'egg', 

which is made from sandstone 

 Marie Guegniard

Domaine Ogereau, Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay:

Emmanuel Ogereau with their Vent de Spilite, 

which they hope will be an eventual Anjou Blanc Cru 

The Ogereaus have also nearly finished picking – just a last tri in the Quarts de Chaume – Les Martinières – and a parcel of Layon to finish. 

They started early – 1st September. By 30th September they had harvested their Cabernet Sauvignon parcel on the Côte de la Houssaye, which is remarkably early. Because of severe frost damage there will sadly be no Savennières this year. What few grapes they did pick have been combined with a small amount of dry wine harvested in their Quarts de Chaume parcel making just a barrel.

The first Quart de Chaume tri was on 25th September with grapes reaching a potential of 19.5%. For the second tri the potential was 22%.    

As at the Domaine de la Bergerie we tasted some nascent 2017 Chenin Blanc and again the juice was very clean with good length.  

 

Harvest virtually over the Ogereaus can relax:

Vincent, Emmanuel and Catherine 

Three Musketeers' tasting and dinner: Emmanuel Ogereau

A week last Saturday we – Nigel Wilkinson and Tom King of RSJ Restaurant, Chris Kissack and myself – had an excellent tasting with three Anjou domaines. Domaine de la Bergerie, Domaine Ogereau and Château Pierre-Bise make up the trio of domaines we have dubbed the Three Musketeers.  

There has been a two-year gap since the last Musketeers tasting. During this interval the younger generation have moved increasingly to the fore. The format for the event remains the same – presentation and tasting of the latest wines from all three domaines following by dinner at La Table de la Bergerie.      

Emmanuel Ogereau, Domaine Ogereau

Emmanuel with a cask sample of their first vintage 

of Quarts de Chaume (2015) 

The generational change was immediately underlined with Emmanuel Ogereau presenting the wines of Domaine Ogereau (23 hectares) rather than Vincent, his father. Vincent and Catherine Ogereau did, however, claim the right to dinner over Emmanuel!

It was impressive to see Emmanuel do an assured presentation in English – before returning to the family domaine at Saint Lambert-du-Lattay he worked in New Zealand and Oregon. 

Highlights from the tasting of the Ogereaus' latest wines included: 

2014 Anjou en Chenin  

From vines planted on grey schist in Saint Lambert du Lattay and picked in several tris selecting golden Chenin. Wild ferment in 500-litre oak casks. Good weight and texture, honeyed with attractive acidity in the finish. Aging potential.   

2013 Clos Grand Beaupréau, Savennières

From two parcels. Mid-yellow colour, textured, some honey, clean, precise, good length and balance.  

2014 Clos Grand Beaupréau, Savennières  

Richer and fuller than the 2013 with good weight, texture and citric character.  Lovely wine. 

2014 Vent de Spilite, 
From eight rows of old Chenin vines. Just one barrel – richly textured, attractive length and bright acidity in the finish.

2014 L'Enthousiasme Savennières
From a vein of sandstone, richly textured, honey and citric notes.  

Reds
2013 Anjou Rouge   

85% Cabernet Franc, 15% Grolleau. Juicy still youthful, slight greeness but good for this difficult year. 

2014 Anjou Rouge
Blend the same as in 2013 but naturally richer and fuller with attractive red fruits and some potential to age, although really made to drink young. 

2013 Côte de la Houssaye, Anjou Villages 

100% Cabernet Sauvignon from an especially warm site. This cuvée is only released in good vintages. Given the difficulty of the 2013 vintage this has surprisingly soft blackcurrant fruit. The Ogereaus only released a small amount of the 2013 Houssaye.    

2014 Côte de la Houssaye, Anjou Villages 

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripely textured black fruits, mouthfilling, big structure with ripe tannins, nicely balanced although needs more time.

Sweet wines
Conditions in 2014 made it impossible to make very concentrated sweet wines in this vintage. The 2014 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert is delicately sweet and nicely balanced with fresh acidity making it a more versatile wine, if less impressive than the very concentrated cuvées. There is certainly a trend towards this style of sweet wine in Anjou. 

2014 Harmonie de Bonnes Blanches, Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay 
Lovely 100% botrytis, rich but delicate freshness from the acidity. The Ogereaus look for concentration but also pick early to keep freshness.  

2010 Clos des Bonnes Blanches, Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay
Just lovely balance of sweet fruit and acidity from a great sweet wine vintage.    

No Clos des Bonnes Blanches was made in 2015 as the Ogereaus wanted to concentrate on their first vintage in their parcel of Quarts de Chaume. We tasted their very promising and exciting 2015 Quarts de Chaume, which is still fermenting.  

 

To come: René Papin (Château Pierre-Bise)  

René Papin, Château Pierre-Bise

Yves Guegniard (Domaine de la Bergerie)

 

Dinner at La Table de la Bergerie 

La Table de la Bergerie: reunion of Le 6 Mousqueteries

Santé!: Les six mousqueteries with Nigel Wilkinson and Tom King (RSJ Restaurant, London)
(LR: from empty place – Catherine Ogereau, Nigel Wilkinson, Vincent Ogereau, Tom King, Claude Papin, Yves Guegniard, Joëlle Papin)
 

Mid-afternoon yesterday we headed out to the Domaine de la Bergerie (Champ-sur-Layon) to taste the wines of the six Mousqueteries who had come to London to for the last of the tastings to mark ther 30th anniversary of the RSJ restaurant. We started with Domaine Ogereau (Catherine and Vincent Ogereau), followed by Domaine de la Bergerie (Marie-Annick and Yves Guegniard) and then finishing with Château Pierre-Bise (Joëlle and Claude Papin). 

  

Scallops and a jerusalem artichoke sauce

After the tasting we had an excellent dinner with some lovely older vintages from the six at La Table de la Bergerie, run by David Guitton the son-in-law of Marie-Annick and Yves.

Wonderfully tender venison with vegetables and a rich wine sauce

We finished with a small selection of cheese, which included a very good Cantal, and then a varition on crèpes suzette.

More pics from CRM: 2010 vintage etc.

Domaine de la Bergerie (Yves ad Marie-Annick Guegniard): harvest picnic in Le Clos le Grand Beaupréau: 28th September 2010

Yves Guegniard: Chenin in Le Clos le Grand Beaupréau: 28th September 2010

The Layon@Chaudefonds-sur-Layon (above and below)

Pigeonnier@Château de Chasseloir (Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine)

Once at magnificent tree in front of offices of Chasseloir – now sadly on its way out

Picking in the Clos le Grand Beaupreau

Chenin Blanc in Claude Papin's parcel

On Tuesday our last visit in Anjou was to the Clos le Grand Beaupreau, the Savennières vineyard shared by Vincent Ogereau, Yves Guegniard and Claude Papin. We were there to see Yves and his team make a first tri (selective picking) there. After the decidedly miserable weather on the Monday afternoon (light rain) Tuesday was gloriously sunny, although not as hot as the previous week had been.   

Yves with some of his pickers

Grapes in Vincent Ogereau's parcel

Stars from the Layon in London: Guegniard, Ogereau, Papin

At least Eurostar arrives on time for strike threatened party 

The stars from the Layon – Martie-Annick and Yves Guegniard, Catherine and Vincent Ogereau and Joëlle and Claude Papin – arrived in London early yesterday afternoon for a brief 24-hour visit for a couple of tastings at the RSJ Restaurant in London's Waterloo. Unfortunately the six are threatened with transport strikes on both sides of the Channel. Starting yesterday evening there is a 24-hour London tube strike and when they get back to Paris later today they could hit the start of a French rail strike. 

Here are some photos from the tasting at the RSJ last night:

Claude Papin

Catherine Ogereau

Joëlle Papin

Marie-Annick and Yves Guegniard

Vincent Ogereau

Tasters

Three stars of the Layon@The RSJ Restaurant, Monday 6th September

Claude and Joëlle Papin with their Decanter World Wine Award Trophy for best Loire sweet wine 2009

This Monday night sees three of the Layon's best producers at the RSJ Restaurant in Waterloo showing their wines at a tasting and dinner – unfortunately now completely sold out.

 Vincent and Catherine Ogereau

Yves Guegniard, Domaine de la Bergerie

Details of the wines to be tasting before and drunk during the dinner here.

RSJ's wine producer dinners: 2010

RSJ Restaurant – September 2009

The RSJ Restaurant in Waterloo celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Over the years it has established a reputation as having one of the most comprehensive Loire wine lists in the world with around 250 references. Nigel Wilkinson's passion for Loire wines was born during a series of now legendary visits to the Loire from the early 1980s. I have been involved as a consultant since around 1990 – mainly presenting the wines during the tasting dinners.

To mark the 30th anniversary there will be a series of wine producer dinners. Dates were finalised during this week's Salon des Vins de Loire.

Christophe Daviau

We kick off on:

Tuesday 9th March: Christophe Daviau, Domaine de Bablut

£45 for four course dinner and wines – see details here.

Frédéric emptying his hod of Chenin Blanc: Le Puy-Notre-Dame: 3rd October 2009

Tuesday 11th May: Frédéric Mabileau and Vincent Roussely (Domaine du Clos Roussely)

Frédéric has rapidly established himself as one of the stars of western Touraine. He now makes Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Bourgueil, Anjou Rouge et Blanc as well as Saumur Blanc. Vincent Roussely is one of the young vignerons, who are making the Cher Valley an exciting region.
Pricing details to follow.

Vincent Roussely

••

Claude and Joëlle Papin with their 2009 Decanter World Wine Award Trophy

Monday 6th September: Anjou special: Claude and Joëlle Papin (Château Pierre-Bise), Vincent and Catherine Ogereau (Domaine Ogereau), Yves and Marie-Annick Guegniard (Domaine de la Bergerie)

Vincent and Catherine Ogereau

Yves Guegniard and his daughter Anne

You have doubtless heard of the Three Tenors. Well now we have the three Layon producers. All excellent producers in their own they work closely together and each have a share of the Clos le Grand-Beaupréau in Savennières.

Pricing details to follow.

Provisional bookings are now being taken as we expect these events to be very popular.
Please contact Tom King on 020-7928 4554 or tom.king@rsj.uk.com