Fine 2012 Muscadet from Eric Chevalier – dare I say mineral!

The back label

Eric also makes good Pinot Noir

Eric Chevalier is probably best known for his Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rosé)* but this fine 2012 La Noë Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu Sur Lie is a reminder that Eric also makes very good Muscadet. This 2012 is lightly golden with considerable weight, very clean and precise and a lovely mineral character. Yes 'mineral' character!

I'm aware that some 'flavour führers' have cast doubt on using 'mineral' as a descriptor on the grounds that science suggests that roots are 'merely supplying water and dissolved mineral ions' as Jamie Goode explains in his fine new edition of Wine Science. Jamie does wonder whether science isn't missing something here:

'That underlying geology impacts wine so strongly is undoubted. The cost differential between a grand cru Burgundy and a lowly generic Bourgogne, or even a respectable village level wine, is such that there is a significant financial incentive for winegrowers to do all they can to improve the quality of their wine. But even where great care is taken in the vineyard, yields are dropped and the highest level of winemaking is practiced, there seems to be a quality ceiling that is imposed by the vineyard.

So we have a dilemma to solve: how is it that soils seem to be so important for wine quality, when science indicates that they are only playing a limited role in influencing the flavour of grapes?'  Jamie Goode, Wine Science – Soils and vines

What I think is important here is that mineral best describes the character of what I am tasting. I could use grapefruit, perhaps, but that doesn't encompass the full flavour. So I'm opting for 'mineral' here and will continue to do so.

 

The Sandeman figure in their cellars@Vila Nova de Gaia

During our recent visit to Porto we took a consumer visit through the Sandeman cellars. It was fascinating listening to and watching the reaction of the people of the visit. In particular one question: "Wine is often described by citing fruits – strawberry, cherries etc. do you add these to the wine?"

The answer is no – any fruit extracts used are added illegally. But the interesting thing is that the person who asked the question was no fool and thought it perfectly possible that these fruits were added to wine hence the use of these descriptors to evoke the taste wines.  

*PS: Actually it is hardly surprising that Eric is known for his fie gris as this variety is incorporated in his website's url. 

          

Dirty Dozen tasting: some Loire wines

Half of the dozen importers were showing some Loire wines at yesterday's tasting. To respond to Chris Kissack's comment, I'd better start with H2Vin. On this occasion they were showing just two. Firstly the 2010 Les Roses du Clos (£8.00), AC Touraine from Xavier Frissant. Attractively mineral and long, Les Roses du Clos is made from Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris). This has a delicacy that many Touraine Sauvignon Blancs do not have and once again underlines the lunacy of the INAO's plans to ban 100% Fie Gris from the right to the Touraine appellation.

2009 Génération X1X, Sancerre, Alphonse Mellot 

 

Les Alphonses' barrel fermented Génération Sancerre Blanc (£26.50) is far from your typical crisp Sauvignon Blanc. Rich, weighty, concentrated and long it gives more than a nod in Burgundy's direction. Its concentration in part reflects the warm summer of 2009 but also that the Mellot's along with many vignerons with vines around Sancerre town and Bué were severely hit by hail that year.   

“Completement fou! Catastrophic!’ Jacky Preys

Jacky Preys during the 2009 harvest

I’m not at all surprised that Jacky Preys doesn’t mince his words about the stupid and nonsensical reform of the Touraine Appellation to make it ready to become an appellation d'origine protégée.

 

Read the rest on Les 5 du Vin here.

2007 Cuvée de Fié Gris VV Touraine Domaine Jacky Preys.

Sunday night's apero: 2007 Cuvée de Fié Gris VV Touraine Domaine Jacky Preys. Made from Sauvignon Rosé (also called Fie Gris and Sauvignon Gris) which is more gentle and less assertive than many a Sauvignon Blanc. Jacky has been in the forefront of the revivial of interest in this grape variety. The vines are planted in flinty soil.

Unfortunately I understand that the new AC Touraine regulations will not permit 100% Sauvignon Rose. Just another example of how daft the new rules are.   

Off to Les Caves de Pyrène tasting later today. Will be interesting as always and interesting to see how many producers will have been able to make it over.

Salon des Vins de Loire: Eric Chevalier

Eric Chevalier and his Fie Gris: February 2010

I first came across Eric Chevalier's wines in February last year at the Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors' tasting in Tours with his Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose). I tasted it again later on in the year and was again impressed, so I wanted to make sure that I met and tasted with him during the Salon.

Eric used to be employed by Vinival and Grands Chais de France, who bought Vinival in 2004. He was based in Montrichard, where he was in charge of the Touraine vinification facility. He had previously gained experience at Domaine Laroche (Chablis) and the Caves de la Loire (Brissac). In 2005 he decided to return to the Pays Nantais and take over the family vineyards, which he did in 2006. Based at Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu in Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu, he has 28 hectares of vines with a range of grape varieties planted. The principal varieties are: 12 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne, 5 of Chardonnay and 2.5 of Fie Gris. The rest is made up of Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gros Plant.

Eric made his name with the Fie Gris. The 2006, his first vintage, was picked up on by Patrick Sandeman of Lea & Sandeman (London, UK). Patrick entered it into the Top 100 Vins de Pays competition run by Off Licence News. It came top. Eric's US importer is Kermit Lynch.

Eric uses the natural yeasts. We started with the weighty and attractive 2009 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu – its rich texture offset by mineral acidity and touch of bitterness in the finish. Then onto a minerally Chardonnay sur lie. The Chardonnay was planted by Eric's father who pulled out the Gros Plant formerly there. It will be bottled at Easter using exactly the same method used to bottle Muscadet.

The 2008 Chardonnay sur lie VDP Val de Loire, while less rich than 2009, has again a good mix of fruit texture and mineral acidity and again that touch of bitterness. Miles away from a heavy, oaky sweet Chardonnay. I suspect you see the influence of Eric's time at Laroche in Chablis here.

La Noë Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu comes from a parcel planted on granite. It has had vines there continuously since 1694. Unfortunately the parcel was hit by a hail storm on 7th May 2008 but the 2007, the first vintage the parcel was vinified separately, is quite aromatic with attractive weight. As is customary with 2007 there is more acidity and minerality.

Tasting the 2008 Fie Gris again I note that it is becoming increasingly spicy. Due to the April frost the yield was only 15-20 hl/ha. "It's good with olives," remarks Eric.

Eric's 2009s are looking good including Le Clos de la Butte – a new Muscadet cuvée – and La Noë. Many have that characteristic touch of bitterness, which adds interest to the wines. "Producers try to get rid of bitterness," says Eric, "but this is a mistake as it is one of the taste sensations."

Eric also makes a rosé from Pinot Noir – the apero style 2009 is soft and easy drinking. The red 2009 Pinot Noir with severe tannins is less successful as Eric readily admits. "This is not an area for reds."

Next thing I have to do is to go and see Eric in Saint-Philbert.

The impeccable and peerless tipster: John Livingstone-Learmonth

King Roan: John Livingstone-Learmonth

Keen readers of Jim's Loire will doubtless remember JLL's magisterial analysis in September 2009 of The Bunch, a small and increasingly select group of UK independent wine merchants. Then down to just five members, JLL ran the form book over possible contenders to become the sixth member of The Bunch. London merchants, Lea & Sandeman, received the shortest odds, so it should be no surprise that just a few months later they did indeed join The Bunch.

Not only do Lea & Sandeman take the sixth plinth but Charles Lea brings considerable height to shore up the defence of UK independent wine merchants. Lea & Sandeman has a relatively short list of Loire wines, although well chosen. Growers/estates listed include Domaine Joël Delaunay, Jean Michel-Sorbe (Reuilly), Claude and Joëlle Papin (Château Pierre-Bise), Yannick Amirault, Bernard Baudry, Château de Tracy and Eric Chevalier (Domaine de L'Aujardiere).

L2R: Patrick Sandeman, Jason Yapp, Alun Griffiths MW (BBR) and Charles Lea - bringing stature to The Bunch

L&S stock Chevalier's excellent Fie Gris but they are somewhat mistaken when they claim: 'Fié Gris (otherwise known as Sauvignon Gris) is an ancient Loire variety which had all but disappeared before young Eric Chevalier was asked to make a special Cuvée for the renowned Hotel Anne de Bretagne'. I'm sure Jacky Preys, who has a real claim to have saved the Fie Gris, would take issue with this statement. Furthermore, although Fie Gris remains rare, there are also bottlings from Paul Buisse, Henri Bourgeois and perhaps others. To be fair to Eric Chevalier he doesn't make this claim. See here.

(Emboldening is my addition – Jim).

JLL's September 2009 formbook here.
Click here for John's Drink Rhone site

Recently tasted et bus: Jacky Preys – Pinot Noir and Fié Gris

2007 Pinot Noir Le Piloris

Jacky and Pascal Preys demonstrate with this delicious, light Pinot Noir that Loire Valley Pinot does not have to ape Burgundy to be good. In no sense is this a grand vin or one to lay down but it shows what can be done in a difficult year for reds if you treat the fruit that the vintage gives sensibly. With its red fruits, light structure and refreshing acidity this is best served cool and enjoyed with friends. It's a good match with salmon – I drank it with salmon fish cakes – and other meaty fish. I'd drink it in the next year or so.

2007 Cuvée Fie Gris, Vieille Vigne AC Touraine

This is Domaine Jackie Preys best known wine. Made from the Fié Gris or Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris Jacky happened to have a parcel of some of the last vines existing of this variety. The 2007 Fié Gris is attractively aromatic with marked grassy and citric scents, clean, mineral palate and with quite austere acidity in the finish, so typical of this vintage. I love the precision and austerity of the 2007s but do acknowledge that others find them challenging.

Unfortunately the appellation contrôlée system encourages uniformity rather than encouraging diversity and finding a place for old Loire varieties such as the Fié Gris and the Menu Pineau. Fortunately due to Jacky and a few other Fié Gris has survived. Paul Buisse has Sauvignon Rose planted above his premises in Montrichard. Whether the new owners, Pierre Chainier, will continue with this variety remains to be seen. Hopefully Pierre and his sons will see the wisdom of having a point of difference within the sea of Sauvignon. Eric Chevalier has an excellent VDP Fié Gris (see below) and the Henri Bourgeois Cuvée Jadis is made from Sauvignon Rose/Gris planted on Le Monst Damnés.

Bertrand Celce tells the story behind Jacky Preys' Fié Gris on his excellent Wine Terroirs site.

(Part of some samples Jacky gave me to try when I dropped in to see him during the harvest in late-September.)

Jacky and Pascal Preys
Domaine Jacky Preys
536 Rue Debussy, 41130 Meusnes
Tel: 02.54.71.00.34 Email: doaminepreys@wanadoo.fr
Web: www.domainepreys.com

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Eric Chevalier 2008 Fié Gris VDP
This was the most interesting wine I tasted at the Boutique Wineries tasted held at BMA House on 22nd September – the day before we left for the Loire. Will write notes on this wine and a few others when I return to London and am reunited with my tasting notes.

In the UK Eric's Fié Gris is available through SWIG, 188 Sutton Ct Rd
London, W4 3HR, United Kingdom Tel: 020-8995 7060

Eric Chevalier
Domaine de l'Aujardière, 44310 Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu
Tel: 06.27.43.81.91 email: eric@chevalierdomaine.com
Web: www.chevalierledomaine.com