Awards and citations:

1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award

Monday, 14 September 2020

Great day for a bike ride and other reflections......


London: view towards Canary Wharf
Today has been a lovely mid-September's late summer's day with temperatures around 27˚C perfect for a bike ride, especially as this is the second rest day in the Tour de France so no need to rush back to catch the live action.
The slopes of the North Downs are the closest open countryside to London's Forest Hill. Here there are plenty of lanes to explore – some quite narrow and requiring care as this close to London there are a good number of cars on them as well. It is noticeable that with Covid-19 there has been a big increase in the number of cyclists of all abilities and sizes out of their bikes. 

Photo by Malc McDonald

A memorial to a local cyclist, Paul Skelly,
who died suddenly in 2016 aged 53.  


The Downs are chalk hills that typically have a scarp slope and a more gentle dip slope. In the case of the North Downs the dip slope faces London providing a steady and fairly gentle climb up to the ridge that overlooks the Kent and Surrey countryside. After a narrow and steep descent down Hesiers Lane, the Col du Skelly (Beddlestead Lane) is a fairly steady climb of 3.16 kms at an average of 4% with a height gain of 120 metres that takes you to the ridge at the top of the North Downs dip slope. Carrying on into Kent and Surrey will take you down the steep inclines of the scarp slope. Here are found plenty of steep challenging climbs – some with up to 20% gradients and more, which will test even fit young cyclists. 

It was back in the late 1970s and 1980s that I rode and managed these hills on a conventional bike now I enjoy riding up them on my electric bike, which still allows you to work hard but without expiring at the roadside.



These are short, sharp hills more akin to the famous climbs in Belgium that are a feature of the Spring Classics, such as the Tour of Flanders. Certainly nothing like the long Alpine climbs that face the remaining riders in the 2020 Tour de France this week – assuming that the race continues after all the riders and staff are tested for Covid-19 over the rest day. 

Leaving aside the racing, which has been exciting this year, the Tour de France is a great advert for the beauty of the very varied French countryside – all the more so now with high definition TV pictures compared to the grainy but atmospheric black and white of the early days of television and the time of news reels. The length of stage races also allows commentators to talk about the food and wine of the regions the race passes through. Wine wise journalist and author François Thomazeau is to date the most impressive and knowledgeable without being precious or pompous. A few nameless others broadcast their ignorance and prejudices with gusto.

Along with travel guides and crime novels often set in Marseille, Thomazeau also compiles the official guide to the sights along the route of the Tour that briefs commentators allowing them to talk knowledgeably about places of interest – châteaux, churches etc. Thomazeau can be heard on the excellent daily Cycling Podcast along with Richard Moore and Lionel Birnie.

It won't be long before we know whether Slovenia will have its first Tour de France winner and whether Irishman Sam Bennett will dethrone Peter Sagan as King of the Green Points Jersey. 

Here complete list of the Tour de France stage winners from the first edition in 1903 to the present day.   






Monday, 7 September 2020

Remembering Frédéric Mabileau


 Fred @ RSJ Restaurant 2010

A week after Fred died in a ULM crash at Saumur Airport on 31st August I still haven't come to terms with his sudden and shocking death. An article (Décès de Frédéric Mabileau : la défaillance technique écartée) in La Nouvelle République (4.9.2020) says that a mechanical fault in the ULM, which Fred was apparently in the process of buying has been ruled out. This after an autopsy in Angers the NR says leaves two possibilities either that Fred was suddenly taken ill or he lost control of the ULM. Although the ULM caught fire once it had crashed he was apparently already dead before the fire broken out – a small consolation that he did not burn to death. 

Fred's funeral will be held on Wednesday 9th September in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil at 10 am. Due to Covid-19 there are currently restrictions on the number of people who can attend a funeral. 

Here are some photos of Fred taken over a number of years, which recall much happier times.

Fred (centre) @ the RSJ Restaurant
celebrating it 25th anniversary in 2005
Also present left to right: Noël Pinguet (Huet),
Thomas Meunier (i/c commerce for Fred),
Nigel Wilkinson (proprietor RSJ), Christine and Eric Nicolas

(Domaine de Bellivière, Jasnières) 


2008: Fred and Thomas with first vintage of the
still fermenting Saumur Blanc from Le Puy Notre Dame

Below: Fred with the 2008 Saumur


2008: Fred and Thomas with Sarah Ahmed
(The Wine Detective)

Tasting with Fred @ Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil

Fred as hod carrier 3.10.2009
1er tri du Chenin Le Puy Notre Dame

Below Fred emptying his hod

Fred, a glass of Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Bacchus


2013 vintage Fred in his winery with
Chris Kissack (The Wine Doctor)

Frédéric Mabileau with his new foudre
taken during the 2018 harvest 



Tuesday, 1 September 2020

Frédéric Mabileau: killed in a micro-lite plane crash – terrible news!


 Frédéric Mabileau during the 2018 vintage
with his prized new foudre


Frédéric Mabileau, one of the most talented Loire producers and a star of Saint-Nicolas-de Bourgueil and Bourgueil not forgetting his Saumur Blanc, was killed in a micro-lite (ULM) crash yesterday. The crash apparently occurred at take-off from Saumur Airport. Fred was 53 years old. 

This is horrible and shocking news. I have known Fred for 30 years and watched and admired his progress and talent.  

Our thoughts and condolences are with Nathalie, his wife, and all the family.    


Saumur. Le pilote tué dans l’accident d’ULM est un viticulteur renommé dans la région

Frédéric Mabileau était vigneron à Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Les circonstances du crash de son autogire, lundi 31 août, demeurent inconnues. L’enquête a été confiée au parquet de Saumur.

Report from Ouest-France.


Indre-et-Loire : un viticulteur du Bourgueillois se tue dans un accident d'ULM

La Nouvelle République