Trio of early 2015 bottles: Loire 2 Bergerac 1

2005 Côte de la Houssaye, Anjou Villages, Domaine Ogereau

Emmanuel Ogereau – the younger generation prepares to take over

There are some regular wine or beer drinkers who decide that January should be an wine or alcohol-free month. I have never been of that persuasion – no wine to see you through the dark days of January! Complete madness! I prefer to stick to modération – comme toujours! With that in mind here are a trio of bottles enjoyed at the start of 2015. 

First up the rich and powerful 2005 Côte de la Houssaye, Anjou Villages from Domaine Ogereau. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon on a very good site so that in most years 2005 Côte de la Houssaye, Anjou Villages, Domaine Ogereau especially in warm vintages such as 2005, it ripens properly. However, in difficult vintages, such as 2012, Côte de la Houssaye is not released. Cabernet Sauvignon really only works in Anjou if it is planted in a warm and well exposed site. The 2005 is rich and powerful – still youthful but may with further time develop greater complexity.         

2011 Secret des Vignes, AC Saumur, Ackerman

This was the 2nd of three samples I received of the Secret des Vignes range from Ackerman. Made from 100% Chenin Blanc this is richly textured with floral and ripe fruit and wood notes and a long finish – a fine Saumur Blanc with a potential to age. 

2011 Merlot Malbec, Bergerac, Château Tour des Gendres 

Luc de Conti @MillesiméBio 2014

The 2011 Merlot Malbec, Bergerac, Château Tour des Gendres is another powerful still youthful red. Although the black fruits and tannic structure are in balance, this ideally still needs at least another two or three years to show its best. Expect to see Luc at the rapidly approaching 2015 MillesiméBio. 

 

Trio of Loires recently enjoyed

 2003 Moelleux Vouvray Domaine de la Taille aux Loups 

Rich honeyed concentration from the heatwave year, this sweet Vouvray from Domaine aux Taille aux Loups worked well as an apéro – just a glass or so – but also with pheasant cooked in cream and apple and finished with a little Calvados and some more cream. Long finish but not especially complex, although certainly would have aged for decades if I hadn't pulled the cork.  

 2013 Pierre de la Grange Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, Domaine Pierre Luneau Papin

Attractive, fresh, lemony, saline young Muscadet from Domaine Pierre Luneau Papin. This spends seven months on its lees before bottling. We enjoyed this with simply fried halibut steaks. It also worked well as a contrast with a starter of scallops and black pudding also a good, refreshing apéro. I'm sure would have been perfect with shellfish including oysters.     

 Secret des Vignes 2012 Saumur Champigny, Ackerman 

Secret des Vignes 2012 Saumur Champigny (11.90€) is the first of three samples of the Secret des Vignes sent to me from Ackerman. 2012 is not the easiest Loire vintage and while this shows some of the characteristic acidity of 2012 it has impressive concentration of black fruits. Still youthful though drinkable now it would benefit by being left for another year or two. The back label suggests this Champigny could age for 5-10 years, which given its concentration (for the year) is a fair estimate. Also in this series is a Saumur Blanc and a Coteaux du Saumur, which I will be trying over the next few days. The 2012 Saumur Champigny was a promising start.