Charles Hours' 1994 Clos Urolat, Jurançon with foie gras

About ten days ago we had a couple of friends round for dinner on the basis that one of the friends promised to bring some foie gras. She kept to her promise, so it was a question of what to drink with the foie gras. 

We could have gone for the traditional choice of Sauternes but these can be just too rich for the equally rich foie gras. Instead something with some acidity and freshness in the finish I think is much better. I could, of course, gone for something from the Loire from Vouvray, Montlouis or Anjou but instead chose to go for Charles Hours impeccable 1994 Clos Urolat Jurançon. 

The 1994 restrained, honeyed richness balanced with acidity in the finish was an ideal match with the foie gras. It was also a fine foil for a later cheese course, especially the Stilton.  

The dry and sweet wines of Jurançon have something in common with Loire Chenins. They both can age brilliantly. Charles Hours' 1994 (22 years old) was still youthful and will comfortably last 20 or 30 years more probably longer. This bottle had been kept in a London flat – not ideal storage conditions and the 1994 was still in excellent condition.         

2014 Ballet d'Octobre, Jurançon, Domaine Cauhapé

We enjoyed this attractive light sweet 2014 Jurançon from Henri Ramonteau's Domaine Cauhapé with our cheese course last night. Made from 70% Gros Manseng and 30% Petit Manseng picked at the end of October. It was particularly good as you might expect  with some Stilton but also worked with Duckett's Caerphilly, which is made in Somerset.  

Although the back label claims that it would match desserts, I fancy this would be difficult as I'm not convinced that the Ballet d'Octobre is sufficiently sweet to match many desserts.    

(This was an unsolicited sample.)

Weekend wines – L’Arpent Rouge 2007 Clos Roche Blanche and a cousin of Vouvray

2007 L'Arpent Rouge, AC Touraine, Clos Roche Blanche

One of my favourite Clos Roche Blanche wines is their L’Arpent Rouge made from Pineau d’Aunis (also called Chenin Noir). Unfortunately they don’t make it every year as the Pineau d’Aunis rosé has first call. Light bodied, juicy and spicy L’Arpent Rouge is a great summer wine. The 2007 is drinking really well now and has a particularly spicy character – certainly pepper, which is the signature note of Pineau d’Aunis – but also nutmeg and cinnamon. Delicious but I fear this was out last bottle and there was none made in 2008. Let’s hope Didier is able to make some in 2009!


1986 Clos Uroulat, Charles Hours, Jurançon
Made from Petit Manseng this has some similarities with a sweet Montlouis and Vouvray, especially with its clean and refreshing acidity in the finish and its ability to age. Sweet Jurançon is made through passerillage – the sun concentrating the grapes on the vines. The area does not get botrytis. The 1986 has a lovely bright mid-golden colour, rich apricot and honey flavours – perhaps softer toned than a Loire sweet Chenin of the same age. The finish is long and clean.

I’ve never had the chance to taste a really old Jurançon but there is no reason to believe that the 1986 wouldn’t go on for at least another 20 years at least. Served blind I’m sure I would confuse it with a Vouvray or Montlouis.

Charles Hours, Clos Uroulat

•••

La Grande Maison blogspot has an encouraging report on the green and vibrant vineyards around Le Puy-Notre-Dame.