2004 Vieilles Vignes, Saumur Blanc
2007 La Bretonnière Saumur-Champigny
Carmin Dry Vin mousseux de qualité
Last evening I tasted the 2004 VV Saumur and the 2007 Saumur-Champigny and tried them with with papillottes of salmon* – the fish on a julienne of vegetables – with each parcel moistened with a little of the white Saumur before cooking them quickly in a hot oven just to the point when the salmon was slightly underdone but wonderfully juicy.
Carmin Dry is an attractively foamy red full of blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. A couple of glasses make an attractive aperitif, otherwise Langlois suggest drinking it with a red fruit dessert. I take the Dry in the Carmin name to mean dry in the sense that this is sweeter than brut. Certainly there is a marked touch of sweetness – at the level of sec-tendre or a lower level sweetness of demi-sec. A red sparkling wine without quite a high level of dosage is thought to be too acid and tannic – echoes of red Vinho Verde!
Trying the remains of the 2004 VV this evening the oak has moderated and a mineral Chenin character is now coming to the fore. I'd suggest that the 2004 really needs another couple of years in bottle to give the oak time to fully marry and realise its potential – alternatively decant a number of hours before drinking.
Samples kindly supplied by Mentzendoff.
* Fish from Moxon's – a very good fishshop in Lordship Lane, East Dulwich SE22.