We stopped at 3 Rue Ernesto Che Guevara, St Andelain – one of the communes of the Pouilly-Fumé appellation. No 3 houses the winery of Didier Dagueneau.
Didier is on benign form today. To say that Didier doesn’t suffer fools gladly is wide of the mark – he doesn’t suffer them full stop. However, he is clearly prepared to suffer us today. Over the years he has happily enraged his fellow Pouilly producers by pointing out their shortcomings in the vineyard, in particular high yields, to the media. Although they can complain it is difficult for them to argue as Dagueneau’s Pouilly Fumés are completely in a league of their own.
We opted to visit the vineyards first guided by the girl friend of Louis Benjamin, Didier’s eldest son. Driving through the Pouilly vineyards we could see patches ravaged by mildew where no leaves remained – not, I should add, ones belonging to Didier. We started with a look at Buisson Renard. Originally called Buisson Menard, Didier renamed it after Michel Bettane made a mistake in print calling it Buisson Renard. Then on to the La Folie vineyard, near the hamlet of Moussard, the source of Pur Sang as well as the famous patch of 18 rows of ungrafted vines that produce Didier’s Asteroide. Badly hit by hail it is estimated that there will only be 200 litres of Asteroid this year.
We finished with Didier’s Jurançon, tasting the 2004 and 2005 Les Jardins Babylone from 100% Petit Manseng. The 2005 was clearly the superior wine with wonderful rich, pure fruit and a thrilling balance.
Sorry for this slightly off-topic comment, but he really lives in a street called rue Ernesto Che Guevara?
if you look at the previous posting on Didier you will see the street sign. However, I suspect that Didier's claim to live on Rue Ernesto Che Guevara would be disputed by the French authorities.
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