We tried it two evenings running. The first night with the classic Elizabeth David slow cooked pork chop, potato and onion recipe from French Provincial cooking. The match wasn't entirely successful as the sweetness from the onions and the pork hid some of the Varennes' fruit. The second evening it worked much better with lamb chops griilled simply giving the wine more volume and roundness – making it a good match. Although the remnants were kept in a half bottle in the fridge, the additional air time probably helped this 2004 to mellow further.
The 2004 is available from Majestic Wine@£14.99 a bottle.