Michel Autran, Cap à l'ouest,
Brut Nature, Vin de France
based in Vouvray
Seven of us gathered for a celebratory lunch at La Promenade, Le Petit Pressigny on Friday 6th October. We started with Michel Autran's lovely sparkling wine, which is fermented in barrel and then transferred to bottle. Brightly clean and crisp, this underlines how good Michel's wine have become.
Then for our first courses and the fish we briefly left the Loire for Burgundy and this fine Saint-Aubin. Then we came back to the Loire with a bang with a duo of Foucaults – their Saumur-Champigny 2010 and 2011. It was the 2011 that Xavier Fortin, the star sommelier at La Promenade, had on the list. Very kindly he let us have one of his last 2010s that he had squirreled away someone.
The contrast between the 2010 and 2011 was fascinating. The 2011 is still fairly closed with quite marked acidity in the finish. In contrast the 2010 is a real delight with lovely texture, some opulence, complexity and length. Xavier believes that with more time in bottle the 2011 will equal the 2010. Maybe but I am far from sure.
It was very good to be able to drink these two Foucault wines as you have to wonder whether under the new ownership these wines will become even more expensive.
2012 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Vieilles Vignes
Hubert Lamy
2010 and 2011 Saumur Champigny
Clos Rougeard, Frères Foucault
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