@Les Treilles Vertical: Chris Kissack and Wendy Paillé
+ diagram of Les Treilles
On Tuesday 4th
February I was fortunate enough to be invited to a full vertical of Les Treilles –
the Anjou Blanc (100% Chenin Blanc) from the vineyard planted on very steep slopes overlooking the
Layon in the commune of Beaulieu. The vineyard was gradullay replanted from 2000 after being
abandoned after the Second World War as it was too steep (between 30%-70%) to be easily worked. See details here.
2013 (brut): complete baby – attractive texture, apple and grapefruit.
2012 (still in vat): Looking promising, although still quite yeasty but with attractive texture and good acidity in the finish.
2011 now in bottle: Honeysuckle aromas, honeycomb, quince, back bone of acidity, still decidedly young. Will develop.
2010: One of the stars of the vertical underlining what a good vintage 2010 is for both dry and sweet Loire whites. Light gold, a touch of honey, beginning to evolve and develop increased complexity. Again a backbone of fine acidity and overall a lovely balance of fruit and acidity with very good length. Fine!
2009: Mid-yellow to light gold, more evolved than the 2010 but with more weight from a hotter year, some acidity but the 2009 is less vibrant than the 2010.
2008: Light gold, some honeyed aromas, A leaner and tighter style than the 2009 but lovely balance and length. One of my favourites.
2007: Light gold, very clean, precise and vibrant. Less concentration than the 2008 and, especially, the 2009 but has a lovely delicacy and length.
2006: Marked jump here in evolution with some aging oxidation, rich fruit reflecting year and a little flat lacking some vibrancy.
2005: The first year of Les Treilles. Quite full, opulent fruit and texture but with good acidity, complexity in the finish but a different style and less impressive in comparison with 2010, 2008 and 2007.
2013 (brut): complete baby – attractive texture, apple and grapefruit.
2012 (still in vat): Looking promising, although still quite yeasty but with attractive texture and good acidity in the finish.
2011 now in bottle: Honeysuckle aromas, honeycomb, quince, back bone of acidity, still decidedly young. Will develop.
2010: One of the stars of the vertical underlining what a good vintage 2010 is for both dry and sweet Loire whites. Light gold, a touch of honey, beginning to evolve and develop increased complexity. Again a backbone of fine acidity and overall a lovely balance of fruit and acidity with very good length. Fine!
2009: Mid-yellow to light gold, more evolved than the 2010 but with more weight from a hotter year, some acidity but the 2009 is less vibrant than the 2010.
2008: Light gold, some honeyed aromas, A leaner and tighter style than the 2009 but lovely balance and length. One of my favourites.
2007: Light gold, very clean, precise and vibrant. Less concentration than the 2008 and, especially, the 2009 but has a lovely delicacy and length.
2006: Marked jump here in evolution with some aging oxidation, rich fruit reflecting year and a little flat lacking some vibrancy.
2005: The first year of Les Treilles. Quite full, opulent fruit and texture but with good acidity, complexity in the finish but a different style and less impressive in comparison with 2010, 2008 and 2007.
However, I
recently drank a bottle of the 2005 in isolation and was thoroughly pleased
with it – its concentration and evolution – so I’m pleased I still have a bottle
or two left. It also, of
course, depends on what dishes you are intending to have with these wines.
Once again in
this vertical I have preferred the wines from the less sunny years – 2010, 2008
and 2007 – but with fine spells during the autumn. This was a fascinating tasting
of a top quality Anjou Blanc, showing not only the potential of Les Treilles
but also that of Anjou Blanc when it is made with ambition and care. Decidedly
useful in terms of the now burgeoning discussion around the possibility of
creating a Chaume sec appellation.
A tractor on Les Treilles
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