Awards and citations:


1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Thursday, 23 December 2010

Vincent Roussely: big plans in Angé

Vincent on the phone in the temporary boutique in the centre of Angé

"I'm le chef du chantier," explains Vincent Roussel, "which means I'm responsible for all the decisions and I have to admit this gives me some sleepless nights!"

This year Vincent moved his winemaking operation back to Angé, his home village and where his great grandfather started the family domaine at the end of the 19th century. After having made wine in Bordeaux, Australia and California, Vincent returned to the Cher Valley in 2000. and set up in Saint-Georges-sur-Cher His father was not interested in vines and wine production and the family's wine-making facilities in Angé were rented out to Vinival, now part of Les Grands Chais de France. Incidentally this is where Eric Chevalier, who now makes excellent wine in Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu, was based when he worked for Vinival.

In 2009 the arrangement with Grands Chais de France came to an end and Vincent was able to move back to the family's historic premises in Angé. Then in April he was able to complete the purchase of the eight hectare vineyard in Angé from the other members of the Roussely family. The vineyard is planted with Sauvignon Blanc and is on the premières côtes du Cher. Part of it is above the cellars so grapes can be emptied straight down a chute into either the press or a vat.

Vertical chute down from the vineyard into the cellar

Now from his office in their temporary shop on the Place de l'Eglise, Vincent is planning and supervising the transformation of the facilities on the nearby Rue du Château. Some of the buildings on the left hand side of the road have been demolished. In their place will be a visitors' car park with the rest of the ground given over to trees and plants down as far as the small stream that runs past the property and into the Cher. A longère tourangelle (one-storey house) is being transformed into a place to receive and entertain groups, who will doubtless include some from the vine sharing company, mes vignes. There will also be a tasting room and sales office. Once the work has been completed, Clos Roussely will move out of the temporary boutique, which used to be the village épicerie (grocery store). Angé's mayor has offered the store to Vincent during the renovations and paid for the repairs, as it was in a very poor state.

There will also be a museum of old lorries and cars as Vincent's father has been an avid collector of these for some 35 years.

The winemaking facilities are underground with a constant temperature of around 11˚C. Until the 2010 vintage the last vintage made here was in 1978 as Vincent's grandfather died in 1980. The cellars, which include some vats carved out of the tuffeau (the local limestone), will soon be made more hygenic and easier to clean by fitting a stainless steel interior.

Limestone vat

Vehicles from Vincent's father's collection (below)










Wednesday, 22 December 2010

Domaine Les Loges de la Folie

Jean-Daniel Kloeckle

While in Husseau on Saturday we also dropped in to the Domaine Les Loges de la Folie run by Valérye Mordelet and Jean-Daniel Kloeckle, who had a portes ouvertes over the weekend. 

I visited the domaine with Sarah Ahmed in August 2008 – see report on Jim's Loire here – and, apart from tasting some of their wines at the Renaissance event on the eve of the 2010 Salon des Vins de Loire, I hadn't tried the wines again. Apart from the Rosé Pétillant Naturel, a full range (mainly Montlouis) was available. 

My two favourite wines were the Perles Rares (21€), a sparkling Montlouis, and Velvet, a vin de table. The base wine for Perles Rares spends 18 months fermenting and aging in barriques followed by 18 months sur latte. This long maturation gives the wine a rich, honeyed character that is balanced with a long finish. Velvet (8.50€) is a juicy, easy drinking red – full of red fruits – made from a blend of 80% Gamay, 10% Côt and 10% Pineau d'Aunis. Very much a wine to enjoy with friends rather than to analyse. Although not mentioned on the label, Velvet is currently from the 2009 vintage.


Although the other wines are well made, the lack real zip and the excitement necessary to take them into the top rank of Montlouis. Still the domaine is only just over five years old and it is good that harvest is all by hand and that they are certified organic.       




Part of the cellar

Jean-Martin Dutour (Baudry-Dutour): new president of Interloire

Jean-Martin Dutour in front of the Baudry-Dutour winery@Panzoult

42-year-old Jean-Martin Dutour (Baudry-Dutour) was elected the new president of Inter-Loire yesterday for a three year term at the organisation's AGM. Jean-Martin takes over from Patrice Laurendeau (Anjou). Jean-Martin is taking on a tough job as relations between the Loire négoce and the producers continue to be very poor. Last year the producers of Bourgueil signalled their determination to leave Interloire, the promotional body for producers in the Pays Nantais, Anjou-Saumur and Touraine.

With 120 hectares Baudry-Dutour is the largest individual producer in Chinon and is both a grower and a négociant. Jean-Martin will need considerable diplomatic skills if progress is to be made before Interloire's next general assembly in June 2011.
 

Christophe Baudry with proof that he is the maire of Cravant-les-Coteaux

Should he need advice Jean-Martin is fortunate that he has ready access to the Maire of Cravant-les-Coteaux – his business partner, Christophe Baudry. 

Already there is speculation that one of them may be a candidate for the 2017 French Presidential elections.  

See also article in today's La Nouvelle République.