Salon des Vins de Loire: Eric Chevalier

Eric Chevalier and his Fie Gris: February 2010

I first came across Eric Chevalier's wines in February last year at the Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors' tasting in Tours with his Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose). I tasted it again later on in the year and was again impressed, so I wanted to make sure that I met and tasted with him during the Salon.

Eric used to be employed by Vinival and Grands Chais de France, who bought Vinival in 2004. He was based in Montrichard, where he was in charge of the Touraine vinification facility. He had previously gained experience at Domaine Laroche (Chablis) and the Caves de la Loire (Brissac). In 2005 he decided to return to the Pays Nantais and take over the family vineyards, which he did in 2006. Based at Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu in Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu, he has 28 hectares of vines with a range of grape varieties planted. The principal varieties are: 12 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne, 5 of Chardonnay and 2.5 of Fie Gris. The rest is made up of Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gros Plant.

Eric made his name with the Fie Gris. The 2006, his first vintage, was picked up on by Patrick Sandeman of Lea & Sandeman (London, UK). Patrick entered it into the Top 100 Vins de Pays competition run by Off Licence News. It came top. Eric's US importer is Kermit Lynch.

Eric uses the natural yeasts. We started with the weighty and attractive 2009 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu – its rich texture offset by mineral acidity and touch of bitterness in the finish. Then onto a minerally Chardonnay sur lie. The Chardonnay was planted by Eric's father who pulled out the Gros Plant formerly there. It will be bottled at Easter using exactly the same method used to bottle Muscadet.

The 2008 Chardonnay sur lie VDP Val de Loire, while less rich than 2009, has again a good mix of fruit texture and mineral acidity and again that touch of bitterness. Miles away from a heavy, oaky sweet Chardonnay. I suspect you see the influence of Eric's time at Laroche in Chablis here.

La Noë Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu comes from a parcel planted on granite. It has had vines there continuously since 1694. Unfortunately the parcel was hit by a hail storm on 7th May 2008 but the 2007, the first vintage the parcel was vinified separately, is quite aromatic with attractive weight. As is customary with 2007 there is more acidity and minerality.

Tasting the 2008 Fie Gris again I note that it is becoming increasingly spicy. Due to the April frost the yield was only 15-20 hl/ha. "It's good with olives," remarks Eric.

Eric's 2009s are looking good including Le Clos de la Butte – a new Muscadet cuvée – and La Noë. Many have that characteristic touch of bitterness, which adds interest to the wines. "Producers try to get rid of bitterness," says Eric, "but this is a mistake as it is one of the taste sensations."

Eric also makes a rosé from Pinot Noir – the apero style 2009 is soft and easy drinking. The red 2009 Pinot Noir with severe tannins is less successful as Eric readily admits. "This is not an area for reds."

Next thing I have to do is to go and see Eric in Saint-Philbert.