Concentrating mainly but not exclusively on the Loire's vineyards, its vignerons and their wines along with places to eat and stay. Also covers some recently published wine books – not just from Loire. Regional Chair for Loire @Decanter's World Wine Awards since its inception. Winner of the 2009 Wine Blog Trophy (journalist category) Salon des Vins de Loire. I have a large and expanding library of photos, particularly from the Loire – places, producers, vineyards etc. European.
1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams
2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org
2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'
2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story
2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award
Apparently the grapes from this spectacular but blitzed vineyard go to a leading sparkling wine producer in Saumur
Photos: Cathy Shore 
13 comments:
I'm speechless that this is business as usual for so many? In the jardin that is the Loire! When we're seeing such a resurgence in environmental awareness.
Thanks Ned.
There are actually a substantial number of organic and biodynamic growers in the Loire but equally as you can see others prefer the widespread use of weedkillers.
I have posted some pictures of Gellewza and Girgentina vines (in Malta) which are literally ambushed by weeds.
It's a rather different spectacle.
You find the pictures on my facebook page, should you wish...
Many of the vineyards pictured in Jim's blog supply grapes to the local co-operative which sells wine in bulk from €1.30 a litre. Much of the clientele for this wine is an ageing rural population with annual gross annual income of less than €8,000. A bottle of wine made by lutte raisonee methods costs minimum €3.50 a bottle. Organic wines upwards of €7 a bottle. Fine for the middle classes and well-to-do tourists but do we really want to deprive people of the pleasure of a daily glass of wine or two ? I think we need to inject a bit of realism into this interesting debate.
Mark
I'm certainly not insensitive to the needs of the low or fixed income folks. Are the cost differences you mention directly connected to extra labor? I have to express skepticism that this is the only possible way to produce low cost grapes. Then there is the direct cost vs the real cost, for example, the cost of a gallon of gas does not reflect the true cost to society and the land.
Well, you're right Ned but who has to pay the extra costs ?
Mark and George. Thanks for your comments.
Re injecting realism: While I agree that some of the vineyards featured go to the local cooperatives to supply an aging population with affordable wine, the area weed killered is much larger than this.
The vine disease Esca has become a major problem here particularly affecting Sauvignon Blanc. The development of esca may have been precipitated by the use of systemic that destroyed the beneficial fungal material around vine roots allowing malignant fungi to take their place.
Jim, I think the jury is out on the Esca question. Certainly the 2004 study in the Midi-Pyrenees (quoted on the IFV site) found that the viticulture practiced appeared to have no effect on the spread of this disease.
Mark. I suspect that there is probably some more recent research since 2004 and any link may well not have been yet been proved.
If all the heavily blitzed vineyards of St Georges are used to make wine for the elderly, there must be huge number of elderly people there or they are very thirsty.
Jim,
I'm by no means defending the wholesale blitzing of the local vineyards and do agree that it would be preferable if everyone followed organic principles. I was just trying to put these practices in their economic context because unfortunately we do live in a world where money calls the tune. There's a quite interesting study by the Chambre D'Agriculture of Maine & Loire which analyses the cost of a bottle of wine from production of the grapes through vinification to commercialisation. In the example they have chosen (based on a real case) the cost of a bottle of wine is €2.26. So evidently where the producer receives much less than that corners will have to be cut - whether that is use of weedkillers, fertilisers or mechanical harvesting. This probably explains the €3.50 starting price range for wines made by "lutte raisonee" methods.
And I do know some very thirsty old folk !
Thanks Mark. Will have a look at the study. Is it available on line please?
Sure Jim -
http://www.maine-et-loire.chambagri.fr/iso_album/diagnostic_cout_de_production_-_viti.pdf
There is a mention in one of the other posts that the cost of producing a bottle of SB in the Cher valley is €2.45
Thanks Mark.
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