2017 Loire – flowering starting

Vines in AC Touraine above the village 

of Francueil, Indre et Loire 

Not yet flowering but probably not far off

Speaking today to Christophe Daviau (Domaine de Bablut, Brissac-Quincé, Anjou) and Philippe Boucard (Lamé Delisle Boucard, Bourgueil) both confirmed that flowering is now underway in their vineyards. Although not as early as in 2011, the fact that flowering has started before the end of May indicates that the 2017 vintage will be quite early. Philippe estimated that they will be picking their Cabernet Franc around 20th September.
 

The good news is that the weather for the moment is warm and settled. There will still be the problem of a marked difference in maturity for those badly frosted and who are relying on second generation bunches, which won't flower for some time yet.  

Fingers crossed that the good weather holds!  

2005 Loire vintage – some more photos from the Layon and l'Aubance

 Pickers in the Aubance 

Here is a further selection of photos from the 2005 vintage taken in the first half of October:

Château d'Avrille, Coteaux de l'Aubance  

Christophe Daviau (Domaine de Bablut)

with Nigel Wilkinson (RSJ Restaurant)

looking at maturing Chenin Blanc 

destined for sweet wine

Christophe Daviau in his vintage van 

 

 Pascal Cailleau, Domaine de Sauveroy, Saint-Lambert-Lattay

Busy making wine 

 Jean-Hubert Lebreton (Domaine des Rochelles, Saint-Jean-de-Mauvets)

Christophe above and below

 

Post CWW Committee BYO@Lahore

Ernie Loosen's Dr L 2013 Riesling: 

opened the evening at the Lahore 

In case you thought that being on the Circle of Wine Writers Committee is all work and no play, here is a report on our agenda post-yesterday's-meeting from late-afternoon into the evening.

After the committee meeting held at the Institute of Masters of Wine, which started at 2pm and was fuelled by nothing stronger than water, six of us repaired to the nearby Iberica Marylebone, Five of us opted for a reviving glass of sherry, while one of our number went for a glass of Cava – Raventós i Blanc L’hereu Reserva Brut 2011. Initially we opted for a bottle of the Fino Una Palma (£40) – more expensive than the also listed Tio Pepe (£34) but worth trying something we didn't know. However when the bottle arrived we discovered that it was only a 50cl, making it substantially more than Tio Pepe which was 75cl, so TP it was and a nicely fresh bottle.

It would be helpful if Iberica listed their bottle sizes. They do list the size of wines by the glass but not bottles.  

Around 6.15 it was time for three of us (bit like an Agatha Christie novel without the deaths!) to head eastwards to the Commercial Road and The Lahore Kebab House. Iberica Marylebone is ideally placed being a short step from Great Portland Street tube station and the Metropolitan Line to Barking. Getting off at Algate East we made our way down the Commercial Road past a number of wholesale hat shops displaying a wealth of hats and signs warning –  'no retail'  and 'minimum purchase' £100 plus VAT. 

The Lahore Kebab House, 2 Umberston Street, London E1 1PY 

Dr Loosen's door bell@Bernkastel 

We started on the 2013 Dr L brought by Lindsay, while we waited for the two sparkling wines – Michael's kind offering – to chill down. With its touch of sweetness and crisp acidity Ernie's 2013 Riesling made this a good transition from the Tio Pepe as we cracked and nibbled our papadums, while waiting for Kathy, our fourth commitee member to arrive.         

2004 Cuvée Josephine from Joseph Perrier 

Just in case anyone thinks I weakened and tasted a banned substance – a Champagne – please be assured that instead I had a fine glass of the single vineyard Masottina Contrada Granda (see below). 

2011 Gewurztraminer Turckheim, Domaine Zind Humbrecht

As you expect from Zind Humbrecht the 2011 Gewurztraminer was rich and delicious that worked well with the butter chicken.

2009 Cabernet Franc, AC Touraine, Château du Petit Thouars 

The combination of Loire fruit and acidity makes Cabernet Franc a good bet with food at the Lahore – worked for me particularly well with the Methi Gosht.  

1992 Coteaux de l'Aubance, Vin Noble, 

Domaine de Bablut (50cl)

Eschewing any desserts we turned instead to the 1992 Coteaux de l'Aubance, Vin Noble, Domaine de Bablut. 1992 is not a great vintage. Coming after the very severe frost of 1991 it was a big generous vintage. Although attractive to drink and we finished the bottle, the nose – typical bruised apple Chenin (Lindsay) was more interesting than the palate that was sweet but without much complexity or rich texture. Very interesting to taste but rather confirmed my preconceptions about how this 1992 might taste. Having said that it was a good effort for the vintage.   

Dinner with Michel Smith: 2 out of the 5

 

Brut Zéro from Château de l'Aulée

The night before the start of Les 5 du Vin's stay in Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil last weekend we had dinner with Michel Smith – a good opportunity to limber up for the days to come. 

We started with the lemony and very good value Brut Zéro, Crémant de Loire (7.50€) from Château de l'Aulée in Azay-le-Rideau. With the salad of lettuce, lardons, mushrooms and goats' cheese we had the 2000 Le MD, Sancerre from Henri Bourgeois, which is currently showing well with some quite rich, evolved flavours and good freshness in the finish. For those who preferred a red there was Michel Smith's own delightfully easy drinking 2011 Puch from the Côtes Catalanes made from pure Carignan.           

2000 Le MD, Sancerre, Henri Bourgeois 

2011 Puch, VDP Côtes Catalanes – Michel Smith and friends  

With the free-range chicken, pot roasted with garlic and lemon, we explored the 1997 Côt, AC Touraine from Le Clos Roche Blanche – still wonderfully youthful with the seductive black fruits that has always been a hallmark of the 1997 vintage. We also took a look at the fine 2003 Anjou Villages Brissac from Christophe Daviau's Domaine de Bablut. It has the richness of very ripe fruit from this heatwave year but has freshness too and shows no signs of tiring.     

1997 Côt, AC Touraine, Le Clos Roche Blanche

2003 Anjou-Villages Brissac, Domaine de Bablut 

1988 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert, Domaine Ogereau

1988 has always been in the shadow of 1989 and 1990 that followed and its merits have often be overlooked. This 1988 Layon from Domaine Ogereau has lovely balance – the fruit isn't super-concentrated but there is great harmony between the citric and apricot fruit and the acidity. It reminds me of the marvellous balance that 2002 has and it went wonderfully well with the small selection of cheese.

1990 Moelleux, Cuvée Céline, Pascal Delaleu, Vouvray 

As you would expect this 1990 Delaleu Vouvray was richer than the 1988 and still very youthful. It proved to be a good match with baked peaches in Muscat and also to sip after dinner – an appropriate way to finish our soirée de la modération.   

Domaine de Bablut (Anjou) picking started yesterday

Christophe Daviau (Domaine de Bablut, Brissac-Quincé)

Christophe (5.9.11): "We started picking our Chardonnay for the Crémant today. Later this week we'll pick the Sauvignon and the Grolleau. The Grolleau is around 11% potential alc. and part will be used for the Rosé de Loire and part for Topette (Christophe's fresh, easy drinking red closed with a screwcap). The Sauvignon is at around 12.4% potential alcohol with 5.2-5.4 acidity. Then early next week we'll pick the Chenin and Cabernet Franc for the Crémant.  

"It has been a really bizarre year with a lot of rain during the early part of the winter until January and then very dry after that until July. Hot and summery in April, May and the early part of June. Cold and unsettled in July and August with the occasional heat spike, especially around 18th-22nd August.

"There's no panic to pick – it is only early September. We'll pick the early varieties and then wait for the Chenin, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon for the still wines. The Chenin and the Cabernet Sauvignon are looking good, while the Cabernet Franc (on limestone for Petra Alba) is more complicated. The flowering was very drawn out and the last Franc berries only changed colour at the end of August. I will wait until the Franc is really ripe – end of September beginning of October. Planted on limestone Franc resists rain weather as the limestone acts as a sponge and the grapes don't take up the rainwater." 

*

Christophe's Coteaux de l'Aubance was recently selected by Biocoop – see video here. 

 

Coteaux de l"Aubance: some photos from 2009 harvest

Domaine de Bablut bunch of grapes concentrating


Small bunch of Chenin with morning dew

Mechanically harvesting Cabernet Franc

Château d'Avrille (Biotteau family)

Haute-Perche vineyard with high rise buildings of Angers in distance

Two more portes ouvertes: Bablut (Brissac, Anjou) and Ampelidæ (Poitou)

Christophe Daviau (Domaine de Bablut)

Saturday April 23rd, Sunday 24th and Monday 25th: Portes Ouvertes  Domaine de Bablut, Brissac-Quincé

**

Saturday 30th April and Sunday 1st May: Ampelidæ, Manoir de Lavauguyot, 86380 Marigny-Brizay

A few recent bottles

2002 Chinon Blanc, Christophe Baudry

Time for a round up of recent bottles starting with this very attractive 2002 Chinon Blanc from Christophe Baudry, which must have been made prior to the tie up with Domaine de la Roncée and the founding of Baudry-Dutour. Nicely evolved with honey and tufa (the aromas of a dry, clean limestone cellar), this has the typical balance of the 2002 vintage. Enjoyed it as an apéro over several nights and if anything it got better and fuller with time. 

2007 Les Millerands, Côte Roannaise, Domaine Robert Sérol

Two reds from Domaine Robert Sérol that I visited last August. The 2008 Cuvée Troigros (name of the famous 3-star Michelin restaurant in nearby Roanne) is a typical easy drinking Gamay, which can be drunk on its own or with a light lunch. Rather mistakenly I tried with a magret de canard and as I should have realised it was too light for the duck. Les Millerands, even though it was a 2007, would have been better as it has more structure but we had opened that a couple of nights previously with cold chicken – a good match.

2008 Cuvée Troigros, Domaine Robert Sérol

 

2008 Touraine Sauvignon, Antoine Simoneau

Antoine Simoneau is a family estate in Saint-Georges-sur-Cher. This 2008 has a few grams of residual sugar that rounds the wine out making attractive and easy to drink with ripe grassy and goseberry scents.The domaines whites tend to be more successful than the reds. Unfortuntaely there is a reliance on the use of weedkillers, which in some vineyards with a slight slope causes some erosion. It would be good to see a reduction in their use.    

 

2003 Anjou Villages, Domaine de Bablut, Christophe Daviau 

Domaine de Bablut in Brissac-Quincé is biodynamic and this rich and powerful 2003 is very typical of this heatwave vintage. Lot of concentrated black fruits giving the impression of coming from somewhere well to the south of the Loire. Still very much on good form and looks to be good for a number more years.

Christophe Daviau@RSJ Restaurant 9th March 2010

 Christophe and Lindsay Oram assessing the reds

Last night Christophe Daviau of Domaine de Bablut in Brissac-Quince opened the RSJ Restaurant's 30th anniversary celebrations with a tasting dinner attended by around 40 people.

The apertif was the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, a Vin de Pays Val du Loire. Not yet bottled it was the first opportunity to most present to taste a 2009 from the Loire. It is softly fruited with some of the richness that will become associated with the 2009 vintage. Due to be bottled at the end of this month. 

Then three Anjou whites from Chenin Blanc:

                2008 Petit Princé, Anjou Blanc
                2005 Ordovicien, Anjou Blanc
                1989 Anjou Blanc (from the same vineyards as Ordovicien)

Petit Princé comes from the Haute-Perche where it is flatter and there is more clay. It is vinified in stainless steel. The 2008 has the wonderful, fresh fruit precision that is typical of this vintage. Ordovicien comes from vines planted on a slope on sandstone and slate. This is vinified in barrique and is a richer style of wine – in part because it is 2005 (a rich vintage) but also because the wines from this vineyarid is richer due to its soil and geology. Christophe says that the acidity level in both wine is roughly the same with the 2008 slightly higher. However, when tasting the two side by side, you certainly have the impression that the 2008 has considerably more acidity. It is the 2005 richness  that masks it.

The golden coloured 1989 was very interesting as initially it had quite a maderised nose but with time in the glass this dissipated leaving a full bodied, powerful and complex wine.     

These wines were served with the first course:

Poached organic salmon and leek tartlet, cuncumber and rocket salad, salmon caviar beurre blanc

The 2008 Petit Princé was clearly the preferred wine without food, while the 2005 Ordovicien became the most popular by a small margin from the Petit Princé with the salmon tartlet.

The reds: 

               2007 Petra Alba, Anjou Villages Brissac
               100% Cabernet Franc from vines on clay and limestone
               2005 Petra Alba, Anjou Villages Brissac
               2005 Rocca Nigra, Anjou Villages Brissac
               100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines on schist

Christophe explained thr logic behind planting the Cabernet Franc on limestone and the Cabernet Sauvignon on imprevious rocks – schist, slate and sandstone. Franc needs regular water, which the sponge like nature of the limestone, can provide. It suffers in very dry years like 2005 when  the region had been dry through 2003 and 2004. In contrast Cabernet Sauvignon likes dry conditions and reacts badly to wet soils, so is well suited to the imprevious rocky soils that do not retain water. The CS was much more at the ease in the drought conditions of 2005 than the Franc.

Served with:

Roast saddle of English lamb, carrots, broccoli, roast new potatoes, lamb jus

With the delicious lamb I thought the 2005 Petra Alba was probably the best match as the 2005 Rocca Nigra was impressive but tended to dominate. 

The sweets:

Christophe is an acknowledged expert on sweet wines and the stages that Chenin Balnc goes through as botrytis takes a hold. These two wines from 2005 are fine examples of Christophe's skill.

                2005 Aubance Selection Coteaux de l'Aubance 

                2005 Grandpierre Coteaux de l'Aubance

The Selection is the entry level cuvée picked with a lower level of botrytis and so less sweet. This style is more versatile than some of the very rich styles from the L'Aubance or the Layon. It works well as an aperitif or a range of dishes such as rich chicken and pork recipes, patés and blue cheese. Grandpierre is very often my favourite sweet wine from Christophe – he also makes a Vin Noble in very good vintages. Grandpierre has a lovely balance of richness and minerality.

Served with:

               Beenleigh Blue

*

               Caramelised apple and hazelnut pudding

Busy week: 2009 André Simon Awards + Christophe Daviau + France under one roof

 

2008 winning drinks book Ciderlands by James Crowden

I've a busy week ahead starting with the presentation of the 2009 André Simon Awards tomorrow night. These annual awards are for the best food book and the best drinks book. Details here. Results should be up on Jim's Loire on Tuesday.

 

Christophe Daviau

Then the following night Christophe Daviau (Domaine de Bablut, Brissac-Quincé in Anjou) will be presenting a selection of his wines during a tasting-dinner at the RSJ Restaurant. There are still a few places left, so for reservations call Tom King on 020-7928 4554.   

Then Wednesday it's the big 'France under One Roof tasting – still if French wine sales in the UK continue to drop dramtically it will soon be France in a telephone kiosk! From a quick look at the catalogue there will be some intersting things to taste particularly from Les Caves de Pyrène and also a chance to see how the Domaine Fouassier wines are coming along as the estate is in coversion to biodynamics. There are also the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors. Otherwise the Loire offering is mainly from the larger companies, so this will be a good opportunity to taste them without the distraction of being lured away to try wines from interesting small producers.

Two very fine bottles of Anjou Villages

17th October 2009

2003 Anjou Villages Brissac, Domaine de Bablut, Christophe Daviau
1990 Anjou Villages Domaine Vincent Ogereau

Having started our Saturday evening with the 1982 Roche aux Moines, Savennières from Château de Chamboreau followed by a interlude provided by a bottle of Jacky Blot's Triple Zero, we moved onto a couple of Anjou Villages wines, which both showed extremely well.

2003 Anjou Villages Brissac, Domaine de Bablut, Christophe Daviau

Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, this has all the power and richness of a 2003 – sweet black fruits, soft but powerful structure, length and a lower level of acidity than is normally customary in an Anjou Villages. There are some that maintain that the 2003s will not last. As yet this shows no signs of tiring and I think it is likely that this 2003 will develop further.



1990 Anjou Villages Domaine Ogereau, Vincent and Catherine Ogereau
This was a real delight – a fine mature bottle showing at its best with soft, silky prune and figgy fruit, fully integrated tannins. 1990 is another vintage that has been attractive from its youth but yet has stayed the course. I'm not sure that this will develop further but it should happily last for at least another five years would be my guess. Probably made from 100% Cabernet Franc but may have had a proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon as this was before the Ogereau's bottled their Cabernet Sauvignon separately.

It would be interesting to taste these blind against some good Bordeaux and see how they fared. They are certainly more reasonably priced.

Checking ripeness in Cabernet Franc

16th October 2009

Ripe enough to pick?

Christophe Daviau (Domaine de Bablut) showed me how to check to see whether the Cabernet Franc on argile calcere destined for his Petra Alba cuvée was ripe enough to pick. The days of relying just on a refractometer that tells you the potential alcohol are now well past. We walked up a row selecting single grapes as we went and separated the sweet pulp from the skins and the pips.

When you have a palm full you chew the skins as though it is chewing gum. Is it bitter? How tannic? Is it green? Then you chew the pips. Amongst my pips a few were green but most were turning brown. Naturally they were quite tannic but it took a while for the tannin to become apparent and it wasn't excessively bitter. I had no reference point as this was my first experience of chewing a handful of pips but Christophe said that compared to a week ago both the pips and skins are much riper. They are likely to pick these by hand on Monday. Next I tried a grapillon (an unripe third generation grape). This was noticeably less ripe – green and sharp – and the pips immediately bitter and tannic. This bitterness lasted much longer in the mouth than the earlier handful of pips.

Harvesting Cabernet Franc for Anjou Villages

Emptying harvested Cabernet Franc into a trailer

Anjou Villages vineyards near Brissac