Off on an adventure: Day 27 – Peter Hahn

Peter Hahn, Vouvray

As I suspect there will be limited time to post on Jim's Loire while we are away – there are posts prepared in advance that feature pics of Loire producers and may be from elsewhere plus some recently enjoyed bottles.   

2017 Salon des Vin de Loire + La Levée – some producers present 6th February 2017

Philippe Delesvaux (Anjou)– previously young Turk
now elder statesman

Still producing excellent wine 

 Peter Hahn, Clos de la Meslerie, Vouvray
Peter's Vouvrays vary dramatically in style from vintage to vintage

Tessa Laroche, Domaine Roche aux Moines  

Tessa has substantially improved this estate's wines.

Vincent Ogereau (Domaine Ogereau, Anjou) 

– happy to let son Emmanuel make changes

More to add in morning but internet very slow this evening.

James Millton (Millton Vineyards, NZ)@Peter Hahn (Vouvray)

 Peter Hahn in his Vouvray vineyards (Clos de la Meslerie)

Peter Hahn and James Millton

Back in June, our last Touraine visit with James Millton was to see Peter Hahn at his Le Clos de la Meslerie in Vouvray. Peter is American but has long lived in France. His background is in finance. He bought the Clos and its three hectares of vines in 2002 with 2008 being his first vintage. Before buying Meslerie, Peter had been searching for a suitable property throughout vinous France.  

Peter has documents about the estate dating back to 1620, while a plaque on the front of the house is dated 1766.  

The vineyards are farmed biodynamically. The wines are natural. I first tasted Peter's Vouvray at the RAW fair in London and was very impressed with his wines. Peter is experimenting with using mechanisation as little as possible.

The wines are imported into the UK by Dynamic Vines. Bottles sell for around £30, which is a very good price for a recently established Vouvray producer. Peter makes just one wine per vintage. He was fortunate in 2013 as the June 17th hailstorm stopped just 50 yards away to the west of the property.   

After visiting the vineyards and the winery, we tasted four vintages from 2012 back to 2009. 

2012 (2 grams of residual sugar)

Lean, witch hazel nose, attractive texture, citric flavour particularly grapefruit, quite lean acidity in the finish. This 2012 is a success given the difficult vintage and is considerably more complex and interesting than some 2012 Vouvrays I have tasted.  

2011 (10 gms residual sugar)

Sweeter nose than the 2012, richly textured, good length with an austere finish, aromas of peach and apricot in the empty glass. 

2010 (40 grams residual sugar) 

This was my favourite wine of the flight with quince flavours, opulent texture and concentration. Lovely balance. Should age for many years. 

2009 (30 grams residual sugar)

Floral aromas – quince again as well as white truffle, good texture with a mineral finish.  

 

  

Le Clos de la Meslerie 

The estate dates back to 1620. 

(above and below)

 

The 1766 plaque

 

James praying for the bees? 

The end of successful flowering – June 2014 

A quince tree beside the vines 

Quince is a frequent tasting note for Chenin Blanc

The chai

The cellar 

 Peter in the winery

2009 Le Clos de la Meslerie 

@RAWfair photos – part two

Peter Hahn (Vouvray) demonstrating why people make wine

James Millton of Millton Vineyards, who makes New Zealand's only serious Chenin Blanc as well as other good things (above and below)  

Julian Castagna (Castagna – Beechworth, Australia) – above and below

Michel Augé: Les Maisons Brulées – Touraine

Véronique Joly: Coulée de Serrant

Philippe Gourdon: Château Tour Grise, Le Puy Notre Dame, Saumur

Steve Daniel pouring Alvaro Espinoza's Viña Antiyal

Ryan's new iArms!

 It's a piece of cake! 

Some #RAW photos from the fair@Trumans, London

The RAW Fair in the Old Truman's Brewery

Despite the best efforts of (No Sunday) Transport for London and the difficulties of actually finding the right entrance the RAW fair attracted a good crowd today, especially by early afternoon. The space is big, good and light with plenty of room to move around.   

 Alexandre Bain: Pouilly-Fumé

 Amy Lillard, La Gramière: vin de table in the Rhône

Damien Laureau: Savennières

 Amy Lillard getting acquainted with top quality Chenin: 2006 Clos du Papillon 

from Domaine du Closel with Closel's owner Evelyne de Pontbriand

Peter Hahn, Le Clos de la Meslerie AC Vouvray
An American in Vouvray

 

Naturally business 

The globe orbiter Luiz Alberto arrives in Brick Lane 

Three friends around a spittoon inc Roger Kolbu and Luiz Alberto 

The middle is the message!

 Stare crazy with Vrazon's Gabriella and Ryan

 A wild ferment in the gents ......