Coteaux du Giennois celebrates 20 years of appellation status

Appellation Coteaux du Giennois is celebrating its first 20 years this year. In 1998 it was promoted from VDQS to full appellation contrôlée status. The VDQS category was created in 1949 and was intended as an in-between status between vin de pays and full appellation. Giennois became a VDQS in 1954. VDQS came to end on 31st December 2011. Most VDQSs were promoted to full appellation status. In the Loire this was eventually the case: all the previous VDQSs were promoted to full appellation status.  

Coteaux du Giennois produces wine in all three colours – Sauvignon Blanc for the whites and Gamay and Pinot Noir for the reds and rosés. Prior to promotion to AC status it was possible to make 100% Pinot Noir and from my tastings these were the most successful reds. Unfortunately the INAO insisted that all the Loire VDQSs, who had Gamay and Pinot Noir, had to agree not to make 100% Pinot Noir. Instead if a producer used Pinot Noir it had to be blended with Gamay. This demand has always appeared to be political rather then following any tradition. In contrast 100% Gamay is permitted. 

Currently there are 194 hectares producing Coteaux du Giennois, this is slightly down on on 2016 when there were 204 hectares. Annual production averages at 7721 hectolitres from 37 producers. In 2016 83% of Giennois' sales were in France with just 17% exported. 

The majority of the reds are easy drinking with most to be drunk in their first few years. The best are those with a very high proportion of Pinot Noir..... The whites are attractively fresh and lemony. Unfortunately the appellation has been considerably hit by frost in both 2016 and 2017.

Bourgueil – 'parmi les toutes premières AOC en France' – mon oeil !

Grapes on a roundabout in Bourgueil plus vineyards

'Cette année 2012 est marquée par un double anniversaire : 10ème anniversaire de la fête des vins de Bourgueil à Tours et 75ème anniversaire de lʼAOC Bourgueil créée, parmi les toutes premières AOC en France, dès le 31 juillet 1937.'

I have been impressed by the way Bourgueil's PR since it declared its independence from Interloire. It has shown that a small appellation can be nimble and innovative. For 2011 they produced a very useful booklet showing dates and details of their producers' Portes Ouvertes. At the Salon des Vins de Loire they had a common stand with many wines that could be quietly and quickly tasted. Also at the Salon they held a celebration of their 75 years as an appellation with journalists and many others invited. This was then filmed and posted on the web.

However, claiming that Bourgueil is 'parmi les toutes premières AOC en France' (one of the very first appellations in France) is stretching things too far! Certainly it is true that they are much older than recent appellations like Châteaumeillant (9th June 2010) or even more recently Coteaux d'Ancenis (autumn 2011). 

Although a relatively early AC, Bourgueil is not one of the Loire's oldest – that distinction goes to Quincy recognised as an AC on 6th August 1936 – nearly a year before Bourgueil and just a few months after Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a leader of the AC movement, was recognised on 15th May 1936. It's puzzling that Quincy, a small appellation in the Cher Valley, managed to be the first Loire AC. Richard Kelley ascribes this largely to the advocacy of Emile Roux, a dynamic producer at the time, and whose niece (Maryline Smith) now runs the domaine – Domaine de Villalin. More evidence that there are times that human influence can be more important than terroir!  

A number of other Loire appellations were recognised in 1936 – Sancerre (10th November – for whites only as reds and rosés were not recognised until 1959), Saumur (14th November – for still wines) and Vouvray (8th December). (NB Illustrative not a definitive list). 

Outside the Loire such minor appellations such as Champagne (29th June), Barsac (11th September), Gévrey-Chambertin and Pommard (also 11th September), Sauternes (30th September), Pauillac (14th November) and Morey Saint-Denis (8th December) along with its grands crus of Clos Saint-Denis et Clos de la Roche were all recognised in 1936.  Again certainly not a definitive list.

Over eight months later – 31st July 1937 – Bourgueil got its appellation contrôlée along with a basket of other Loire ACs – Chinon, Muscadet, Pouilly-Fumé and Pouilly-sur-Loire. All more four months after Hermitage got recognition on 4th March 1937. 


Bourgueil amongst France's very first ACs – certainly not, though it might just scrape into the first 50! Further research needed!