Patrick Sandeman dies in sky diving accident

Very shocked and sad to discover this afternoon that Patrick Sandeman of the highly respected Lea & Sandeman wine shops in London died in a sky diving accident on Saturday. It is particularly shocking as I saw Patrick and chatted to him at the Bunch tasting recently (Thursday 13th September).

See Decanter news here, Jancis Robinson here and Daily Telegraph here.

The impeccable and peerless tipster: John Livingstone-Learmonth

King Roan: John Livingstone-Learmonth

Keen readers of Jim's Loire will doubtless remember JLL's magisterial analysis in September 2009 of The Bunch, a small and increasingly select group of UK independent wine merchants. Then down to just five members, JLL ran the form book over possible contenders to become the sixth member of The Bunch. London merchants, Lea & Sandeman, received the shortest odds, so it should be no surprise that just a few months later they did indeed join The Bunch.

Not only do Lea & Sandeman take the sixth plinth but Charles Lea brings considerable height to shore up the defence of UK independent wine merchants. Lea & Sandeman has a relatively short list of Loire wines, although well chosen. Growers/estates listed include Domaine Joël Delaunay, Jean Michel-Sorbe (Reuilly), Claude and Joëlle Papin (Château Pierre-Bise), Yannick Amirault, Bernard Baudry, Château de Tracy and Eric Chevalier (Domaine de L'Aujardiere).

L2R: Patrick Sandeman, Jason Yapp, Alun Griffiths MW (BBR) and Charles Lea - bringing stature to The Bunch

L&S stock Chevalier's excellent Fie Gris but they are somewhat mistaken when they claim: 'Fié Gris (otherwise known as Sauvignon Gris) is an ancient Loire variety which had all but disappeared before young Eric Chevalier was asked to make a special Cuvée for the renowned Hotel Anne de Bretagne'. I'm sure Jacky Preys, who has a real claim to have saved the Fie Gris, would take issue with this statement. Furthermore, although Fie Gris remains rare, there are also bottlings from Paul Buisse, Henri Bourgeois and perhaps others. To be fair to Eric Chevalier he doesn't make this claim. See here.

(Emboldening is my addition – Jim).

JLL's September 2009 formbook here.
Click here for John's Drink Rhone site

The Bunch: John Livingstone-Learmonth surveys the field

Have now received the magisterial formbook on the five remaining Bunchers from King Rhône and odds on who might be selected for the sixth plinth in the Bunch firmament.

John@the 2008 Roederer Awards: winner of the book prize for The Wines of the Northern Rhône

Yapp: good recent form, have youth on their side, adaptable to many tracks given rolling home terrain, handy sorts therefore. Will be able to bob and weave in a crowded field. Stricter feeding regime of late, plus getting more work into younger servants. Rely on best European bloodlines above all, have some fine old stagers in the stable who have loyal fans given to writing letters to Racing Post when they win races at 13 years old plus.

Web: http://www.yapp.co.uk/

Tanners: doughty northern challengers, used to heavy going, hardy inmates. No love for modern all-weather, interval training techniques, stick to steady up hill and cross country gallops. Schooling fences teach inmates to jump properly. Challengers make steady progress rather then fast improvement, tend to suffer from handicapper's beady eye as a result. Faithful local following, who use the Tote more than the bookmakers.

Web: http://www.tanners-wines.co.uk/

Corney & Barrow: high class stable, air con for all inmates, and have studbook students in raptures about outcross with prime British bloodstock. Only used to Grade 1 tracks could be a drawback if going gets churned up, and obliged to race at inferior venues. Flashy Ascot form. Runners often well backed, subject to local gossip.

Web: http://www.corneyandbarrow.com/

Berry Bros: long, traditional pedigree, with stables visited for their historic connections. Well run, but have dropped old custom of weighing inmates pre and post race. Good reading of formbook has allowed them to place challengers precisely and win a broader range of races in recent years. Hold their form well. Newish travelling head lad unusually large and tall for the job, but has expertise. Chief trainer likes to dabble, feared by the bookmakers when he enters the ring.

Web: www.bbr.com

Adnams: mixed purpose stable, curious mix of flat and jumping pedigree, with foreign blood introduced at an early, daring stage. Very happy to pot hunt in off the beaten track provincial venues with no PMU, and have good record in that area. Always capable of readying one for a 33/1 scoop, especially given tucked away location. Happily have not yet been accused of running ringers.

Web: adnams.co.uk/

JLL's odds on possible runners for the 6th plinth

Lea & Sandeman 11/10
The subject of racecourse gossip recently, rumoured to have been working well on the River side circuit. Challengers usually well turned out. Recent wagers may speak for them.

Web: http://www.londonfinewine.co.uk/

Noel Young 7/2
Based near Headquarters, and has made strong, steady progress in recent times, still not fully exposed.

Web: http://www.nywines.co.uk/

Great Western 11/2
Large stable, able to churn out winners on the West Country circuit. Plenty of runners around the country.

Web: http://www.greatwesternwine.co.uk/

Handford 17/2
Wide spread of challengers in this crafty well-located stable. Have to take string out early to avoid excess road traffic. Good open days attract the public to the stable as well. May delay their challenge for the 6th plinth until the 7th has been built.

Web: http://www.handford.net/

D Byrne 9/1
Long-standing stable with grass roots methods that have been successful for many years. Below the radar on southern circuit, rare challengers at Goodwood etc, but pack in winners at Haydock, Cartmel etc.

Web: http://www.dbyrne-finewines.co.uk/

Justerini & Brooks 11/1
Often compared to Berry Brothers, a mixed bag of quality beasts and less exposed sorts. Scottish influence may mean cautious about mixing with other stables.

Web: http://www.justerinis.com/

Previous report on the http://jimsloire.blogspot.com/2009/09/bunch-once-there-were-eight-now-there.html.

The Bunch – once there were 'eight' – now there are five

Jason Yapp (Yapp Brothers) one of the founder members of the Bunch

I went to the Bunch tasting today. The Bunch is a grouping of some of England's most distinguished independent wine merchants – the Blue Ribands of the sector with at least two companies with Royal Warrants and one of these chaired by the Clerk of the Royal Cellars. Founded some ten or 12 years ago they have now rather shrunken in number – starting with eight merchants* there are now down to just five. The founders members of the Bunch were: Adnams, Armits, Berry Bros & Rudd, Corney & Barrow, Lay & Wheeler, Laytons, Tanners and Yapp Brothers. A key criteria for membership is that the companies are independent.

It's only too easy to imagine what Agatha Christie would have made of this – a tale set over a long weekend in a stately home with the eight merchants meeting up for a jovial weekend. Initially there are eight places set round a magnificent oblong table but soon one chair disappears, then another followed by another. Uneasy glances around the table – who will go next............?

Laytons were the first to go – bought by Jeroboams. Next, in 2008, Armit sold out to the Dutch Baarsma Wine Group. This year Majestic snapped up the ailing Lay & Wheeler.

Le Roi du Rhône: John Livingstone-Learmonth

I'm delighted that John Livingstone-Learmonth (http://www.drinkrhone.com/) has graciously agreed to supply odds on who will occupy that last chair around the dining-table, who will go next and, who, the Bunch might recruit if they decide to make up their numbers. Indeed it is understood that The Bunch are looking to recruit new members. "The wheels are in motion," commented Jason Yapp. Deservedly known as King Rhône, John is also a nonpareil when it comes to his mastery when setting odds – the likes of Magic Meg of Penge are but distant substitutes. Further details will be posted as soon as I have them from the Monarch of the Turf.

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* Unfortunately this is incorrect as I have been rightly reminded by Jason Yapp (see below). There have only ever been seven members maximum at any one time. However, pleading artistic licence on behalf of Agatha, the table will continue to be set for eight.

Jason Yapp: 'At the risk of qualifying for Pedants Corner I must point out that the Bunch has never had 8 concurrent members.

The orginal [magnificent?] 7 were:

Adnams, Armit, Corney & Barrow, Lay & Wheeler, Laytons, Tanners and Yapp.

When Laytons was sold (around 2000) we dropped to 6 and then BBR joined in, I think, 2002 taking us up to 7 again.

Then Armit withdrew their membership and we dropped back to 6 where we remained until Lay & Wheeler were bought by Majestic earlier in the year.

We were never 8 because that’s too many people to share a decent bottle of wine. That said I am hopeful that we will recruit a 6th member not least because logistically it’s a much better number if ever we colloborate on a mixed case offer.

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While we wait for John's deliberations, here are details of the two Loire wines shown at the today's tasting.

2008 Menetou-Salon Blanc, Domaine Teiller

Yapp Brothers showed the 2008 white Menetou-Salon from Domaine Teiller (£11.95), which was very typical 2008 – strong mineral character, very precise but with some palate concentration and good length.

2008 Touraine Sauvignon 'Terroirs des Vignerons', Paul Buisse

The other Loire white (no red Loires were shown) was put up by Adnams – the crisp and crunchy 2008 Touraine Sauvignon 'Terroirs des Vignerons' from Paul Buisse (£6.99) with a slightly catty nose and gooseberry flavours, clean length with a touch of greenness in the finish. Interestingly different in style to the Menetou-Salon – one for those who like a slightly aggressive and assertive edge to their Sauvignon Blanc. My preference was for the Menetou but it is another £5.