Millésime Bio: dinner with four producers@La compagnie des comptoirs

 Thierry Jullien, président de l'Association Interprofessionnelle 

des Vins Biologiques du Languedoc-Rousillon (AIVB-LR) (above and below)

Last night I was kindly invited to join the first night dinner of the press trip to this edition of Millésime Bio at La Companie des Comptoirs. This year the invited journalists etc. are from North America and include Tim Teichgraeber (freelance writer), David Rosegarten, Sue Straight and Michael Apstein, whose other job is a liver specialist.

The four growers included Thierry Jullien of Mas de Janiny and who is the president of l'Association Interprofessionnelle des Vins Biologiques du Languedoc-Roussillon. Thierry told me that numbers for the Salon are slightly up on last year. "We could have accepted more," he said, "but we prefer to grow slowly and remain at a manageable size. We don't accept anyone unless they are certified organic. This includes natural wine producers – they, too, have to be certified." 

Every exhibitor at Millésime Bio has the same sized table, so there are no fancy stands. For Languedoc-Roussillon producers the price is 1300 euros for the three days and 1800 for producers from elsewhere. Thierry has fond memories of the first edition in 1993 when there were just a handful of producers present.  

 

 Mme Jullien

 

2009 Les Hauts de Laborie, Grés de Montpellier, Mas de Janiny 

Soft and well balanced

The other producers were Christian Leperchois of Domaine des Carabiniers making Tavel and Lirac. 

 Christian Leperchois – a wearer of interesting shirts and wine producer

2011 Tavel, Domaine des Carabiniers: full bodied rosé with the alcohol in balance

 2010 Lunar Apogé, Lirac, Domaine des Carabiniers: peppery, spicy black fruited Rhône

Christian's domaine usefully offers the opportunity for Terroirists to give themselves up!

Virgile Joly – says he is Nicolas' elder brother but I have my doubts!

 

2011 Joly Blanc – lives up to its name 

made mainly from Grenache Blanc with some Roussanne

Unfortunately Virgile's red was too warm for a fair comment

André Leenhardt, Château de Cazeneuve, Pic Saint Loup

André Leenhardt of Château de Cazeneuve, who I visited last year on the Sunday before Millésimé Bio, came with magnums of excellent three wines. The rich and concentrated 2010 white Coteaux du Languedoc – mainly Roussanne and Grenache Blanc plus Viognier, Rolle and Muscat. For me the wines of the evening.

2007 Le Roc des Mates, Pic Saint-Loup (100% old Syrah)

2005 Le Sang de Calvaire, Pic Saint-Loup (pure Mourvèdre): lovely texture and balance

 David Rosengarten looks to auction what is left of the 2007 Roc des Mates

Freelance writer Tim Teichgraeber

Millésime Bio 2012: dinner@plaisirs des mets

Plaisirs des mets

Bar of the restaurant

Montpellier

Millésime Bio, the annual organic wine starts on Monday (23rd) and runs through to Wednesday but the press trip associated with the fair started last night in the Plaisirs des mets, a small restaurant in the old part of Montpellier. The press group is mainly from Germany, Denmark, Scandinavia and Iceland with a couple of late additions – Howard Hewitt from the US and myself. Apparently we managed to squeeze on as there weren't enough Scandinavians who wanted to leave the chilly north for a few days of respite sun in Montpellier.

At dinner we were joined by producers: Marie Teisserenc (Famille Fabre), Jean Paul Cabanis (Costières-de-Nîmes) and Virgile Joly.

Jean Paul Cabanis

Domaine Cabanis: Pays du Gard 2010 Clairette

We started with a simple, refreshing vin de pays 2010 Clairette from Jean Paul Cabanis, which was just right to kick off the evening. Then two further whites in ascending order of richness: the well balanced 2009 Saturne (100% Grenache Blanc) from Domaine Virgile Joly and the rich and full but not cloying 2009 Viognier from Famille Fabre. This Viognier came from vines selected in Condrieu. This was a rare treat as production is very small – just three barriques.

2009 Saturne, Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine Virgile Joly

2009 Viognier, famille fabre

A succession of attractive south reds followed. These were based mainly around Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, although Jean Paul Cabanis' Costières de Nîmes had a majority of Mourvèdre which ripens well in these vineyards which are close to the sea. Unfortunately the later reds were served with and after the chocolate dessert which made tasting a challenge! Despite this the still quite youthful 2002 Rouge from Domaine Virgile Joly showed very well and should clearly last for another few years.

A rather grainy photo of Virgile Joly – should have taken the other Canon!

2002 Rouge, Domaine Virgile

Swirling glass: not what was intended but I like the effect – vive la modération!