2010 Los Grandes de la Rioja: politicians and journalists

Lunch on Monday was at the Marqués de Cáceres was was attended by the president of the region and the local minister for agriculture. Ineveitably there was a group shot, which showed how markedly different the approach to group photography is between politicians and a group of journalists. The politicians were well behaved and quickly in place ready to face the cameras, while the journalists were much slower to assemble, some tried to hide behind their taller colleagues and treated the whole deal with some levity.

 

The President  wears the purple tie

Finally all together...

Los Grandes de la Rioja: Tuesday 14th September – evening colours of Rioja

Tempranillo in the Amancio vineyard, Señorio de San Vicente

Our final visit was to Señorio de San Vicente, which was also part of the 2008 programme. It was one of the few times on the Los Grandes programme that we were shown a vineyard. For many of us a look at the vineyard is usually far more interesting than a winery visit unless there is often something unusual to see.

We were lucky as it was a fantastic evening and the top of this vineyard overlooks the River Ebro. The light was wonderful with the hillsides picked out with delicate, warm browns and greens.

We visited the vineyard whose grapes go into Amancio. These are some of the most marginal in Rioja because of the altitude. Fortunately they are protected from the Atlantic weather by the Sierra Cantabria range.

Vineyards and the Sierra Cantabria (above and below)

One of the traditional vineyard workers huts

Los Grandes de la Rioja: Monday 13th September – first day of tasting

Fernando – the backstage maestro

After two days of visits the tastings that are central to the Los Grandes programme got underway this morning. Backstage Fernando plays a crucial role in opening the bottles and deploying the team of pourers, while Andrés Proensa is master of ceremonies out front.

Andrés Proensa

María Antonia Fernández Daza: organiser and translator

The first flight was rosé and my clear favourite was the highly unusual 2000 Viña Tondonia. Described by Ryan Opaz as an 'orange' wine, you need to forget preconceptions about rosé with this wine. Indeed served blind it is unlikely that many would pick it as a rosé. More likely an old white or a light fino-style sherry. It has gentle oxidation on the nose, mouthfilling fruit, gentle wood influence,  length and a very attractive delicacy. The more of the Viña Tondonia wines I try on this trip, the more their hallmarks of finesse and delicacy are reinforced. Sadly finesse and delicacy is too often missing in  some of the wines here. Winemakers instead opting for over-extraction and an excess of wood.    

2000 Viña Tondonia Rosé

I also liked the pale and delicate Rosado from Muga.

2009 Rosé Muga

Los Grandes de la Rioja: scenes from Sunday 12th September

Viña Tondonia

Viña Tondonia: winery bridge

Viña Tondonia in Haro was the highlight of yesterday's visits. This is the third oldest of the bodegas in the Rioja and the most traditional. Sometimes people maintain and prize traditions out of laziness and a reluctance to change. However, the wonderful wines of Viña Tondonia show that their ultra-traditional way of very long aging – at a very substantial economic cost – is very well worth preserving. 

Mercedes Lopez – the great, grand-daughter of the founder of Viña Tondonia

After a tour of the cellars with Mercedes Lopez we tasted three finished wines. We started with the lovely 1981 Tondonia white Gran Reserva which has considerable similarities to an old Chenin Blanc or an old Jurançon.

Viña Tondonia 1981 Gran Reserva white

Then the 1981 red Gran Reserva that showed quite high acidity and perhaps needs more time to show its best. We finished with the magnificent 1961 red Gran Reserva, which still has lovely sweet fruit, is wonderfully complex and shows no sign of tiring.

 

1961 Tondonia Tinto

Amazing spider's web in the cellars

Los Grandes de la Rioja 2010

Centre of Logroño by night 

Arrived about 9.30 last evening in Logroño for the 6th edition of Los Grandes de la Rioja, which runs from 11th to 14th. This event was first held in 2000 and this is the third time I have been invited. The first time was 2002 or 2004, probably the former but I forget. Then I came again in 2008. Los Grandes is a very good opportunity to taste a number of Riojas on Monday and Tuesday as well as visit interesting bodegas.

Alvaro Palacios (April 2008)

The 2010 programme looks good. Today we start with a visit to Bodegas Viña Herminia, followed by Bodegas Palacios Remondo, which will include lunch. This is Alvaro Palacios' winery and we had a memorable visit and excellent lunch there in 2008, which concluded with Alvaro picking up a guitar and singing. Our programme promises some free time this afternoon in Logroño but if last time is any guide then the two hours free is likely to be considerably shortened by the time we leave the Palacios bodega. 

Guitar-playing wine producer (above and below)

Today finishes with a visit and dinner at Roda, which was one of the bodegas I visited on the first trip when it had not long been established.