Château de Plaisance (Chaume et Quarts de Chaume) under new ownership

Vanessa Cherruau, Vigneronne coproprietaire

It was good to meet Vanessa Cherruau again. I had met her a number of years ago when she was employed at the ill-fated Château de la Genaiserie (Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné). She left Genaiserie when they ceased to pay her before the domaine collapsed first into administration (2010) and then into liquidation in 2013. 

Last year Vanessa put together a group of investors along with herself to buy the 25-hectare Château de Plaisance from Guy Rochais, whose father Henri had acquired the domaine in 1960. Since 1995 it has been farmed organically and is now biodynamic. 

Plaisance has 25 hectares of vines spread across 44 parcels in the following appellations Anjou Blanc, Savennières, Chaume and Quart de Chaume. The bulk of the vines are in Chaume with 1.5 ha in Quarts de Chaume and three hectares in Savennières around the Moulin de Gué. There are 21 hectares of Chenin, 2.5 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon and the same area of Cabernet Franc planted as well as a small amount of Chardonnay. The average of the vines is 40 years old with some vines more than 120 years old. Picking is all by hand. 

Guy Rochais was one of the leaders of the move to make high quality dry white wine in both Chaume and Quarts de Chaume and to campaign for cru status for this dry wine. This move is partly driven by how difficult it is now to sell substantial volumes of sweet wine even from a potentially top quality appellation like Quarts de Chaume. Guy also considered that the terroir of both Chaume and Quarts de Chaume had the potential to make great dry Chenin. For several years Guy has been looking to sell up and retire. 

A duo of Savennières – 2018 and 2019

Vanessa is understandably excited by this new project, which was concluded literally hours before the 2019 harvest started. The documents were finally signed at the notaire (lawyer) at 10pm on 12th September and picking Chardonnay started the following morning at 9am! Furthermore, Vanessa was expecting a baby at any moment.

There will be a continued emphasis on dry Anjou Blanc from the Chaume vineyards. I tasted the 2019 from the Butte de Chaume, which was harvested on 18th September. "Our aim is to make a very precise and clean dry wine using no botytised grapes, so picking earlier than was Guy's practice," Vanessa explained. 

In 2019 Plaisance's vines in Savennières were frosted both in April and early May and recorded an 80% loss of crop. I tasted the 2019 Savennières, which while unfinished is attractively vibrant and with potential. It is clearly a step up from the 2018 Savennières, which is pleasant enough but not special. Clearly by 2018 Guy wanted out and Vanessa explained that most of the domaine's 2018 was sold off to négociants.  

It is good to see another new project in Chaume and Quarts de Chaume joining the recently established Domaine Belargus.       

        

 

Vanessa pouring Plaisance's Quarts de Chaume

Is Quarts de Chaume about to become very rare?

Green is Chaume 1er Cru and pink is Quarts de Chaume

Two new and wonderfully detailed maps of the Quarts de Chaume
and Coteaux du Layon 1er Cru Chaume
Source: Fédération Viticole Anjou-Saumur 

Geological map of Coteaux du Layon 1er Cru Chaume
Clearly indicating how complex the soils are in this small area

2019 is a significant year for Quarts de Chaume – one of the world's greatest expressions of Chenin Blanc. It will be the last vintage that cryoextraction, or cryoselection as some prefer to call it, will be allowed under the décret of November 2011. This transitional arrangement comes to an end in 2019. From 2020 it will hopefully be impossible to make Quarts de Chaume from unripe, green grapes and foist it onto the consumer as the real thing.

However, despite a series of good to excellent vintages there is every prospect that Quarts de Chaume, already a small appellation of 40 hectares, will become increasingly rare. The problem is simple we are not buying and drinking enough sweet wine. Now there is a marked move to making dry Anjou Blanc from the vines of the Quarts de Chaume.

Hamlet of Chaume and the surrounding Q de C vines 

The arrival of two important new players – Kathleen Van den Berghe and Sigurd Mareels (Château Suronde) and Ivan Massonnat (Domaine Belargus) – has highlighted the problem and the direction that a significant proportion of the production from vines in the Quarts de Chaume will take. Belargus has 10 hectares of vines in Quarts de Chaume and Suronde 5.5 hectares making a total of 15.5 ha or 38.75% of the appellation's total area.   

View towards Suronde

Suronde's website clearly sets out their wine producing policy.

'Château de Suronde is the perfect complement to Château de Minière (Bourgueil), with white wines from Chenin Blanc that can be sweet, semi-sweet and dry, both still and sparkling. Château de Suronde will produce mainly dry white wine, and will produce the iconic sweet Quarts de Chaume wines in the best vintages only.'

Only sweet wines that meet the appellation's criteria can be Quarts de Chaume – dry, semi-sweet will be Anjou Blanc, while the sparkling can be either Anjou Mousseux or Crémant de Loire depending on the production methods used.

Ivan Massonnat (Belargus) intends to make 80% dry wines from his 10 hectares. This percentage is likely to be even higher in average to poor vintages. It was Jo Pithon who fortunately persuaded Massonnat to make some Quarts de Chaume in 2018. Pithon pointed out that even though sweet wines are difficult to sell they can remain in a grower's cellar for many years without losing value.

Part of Belargus's holding in lieux-dit Les Quarts

Suronde and Belargus are not alone. Guy Rochais (Château de Plaisance) is also making  dry wines in the Quarts de Chaume and is amongst those pushing for a superior appellation for the best of Anjou Blanc sec – in this case, perhaps, Anjou Blanc Chaume.

What of Domaine des Baumard's six hectares of Quarts de Chaume? From the 2020 vintage when cryo-extraction is banned making it impossible for the domaine to make some 80 hectolitres of ersatz 'Quarts de Chaume' as they did in the awful 2012 vintage when over 200 mls of rain fell during the crucial month of October.  

Actually it was legally impossible in the 2012 vintage but the INAO chose to turn a blind eye – forget any notion that this organisation stands up for the consumer. In less than ideal vintages will Domaine des Baumard now choose make a proportion of dry white from their six hectares?

My guess is that producers, like Domaines de la Bergerie, Ogereau and others with just a small parcel in the Quarts de Chaume will continue to try to make 100% sweet wine from their parcels unless weather conditions make this impossible.

Stats from InterLoire show that between 2012 and 2016 the maximum area declared as Quarts de Chaume was 35 hectares (2014), while the lowest was 6 hectares in 2012......  Will the area declared reach 35 hectares in the near future?

It is difficult to blame the producers for choosing to reduce their production of sweet wine in favour of dry ones. How can you expect them to go on making wines that in order to be great require tiny yields, with the attendant big risks of late harvest and the additional expense of successive pickings, if they cannot sell them no matter how good these sweet wines are?

This development sets lovers of a sweet wine a challenge. If you want these wines to continue to be made in reasonable quantities you must be prepared to drink more of them. Here I am as guilty as anyone. I love sweet wines, especially those from the Loire with their magical balance of sweetness and acidity. However, when I reflect at the end of the year on the number of bottles of sweet wines that I have drunk – I may only need the fingers of one hand and only rarely more than two!

This lack of consumption is not peculiar to Quarts de Chaume or other Loire sweet wines, Sauternes and other great sweet wines face similar problems in a dry white market. Some would say let market forces rule. If a type of wine is difficult to sell them what's the problem if it disappears.... Although, of course, market forces are necessarily a major influence, if it wasn't for some stubborn and courageous producers some of wine's diversity would have been lost. The wine world would be a a sea of international wine varieties. The marvels of good sherry might well have disappeared. etc. etc. 

It is still possible to enjoy and marvel at sweet Vourvays or those from the Layon from 1947 because a reasonable quantity was made. Will that still be the case for potential great vintages like 2018 and those to come in the future in 70 years time? For the sake of future generations of wine lovers I hope so! 

As wine communicators we need to highlight the qualities of great sweet wine and the different occasions to drink them. It doesn't help that too many in the British wine and hospitality trade and in other countries foolishly and inaccurately describe these magical wines as 'dessert' wines.

Un Grand Vin du Monde – Quarts de Chaume by Jean Baumard

I don't often agree with Jean Baumard but I do agree with his book's title Quarts de Chaume – Un Grand Vin du Monde (published 2007) – assuming that the wine complies with the décret in force from the 2020 vintage. Unfortunately Quarts de Chaume is facing some testing times and is under a possible threat, which I hope will receive some airtime during the International Chenin Blanc Seminar at the start of July in Angers.

Bel avenir pour Belargus ?

 

Ivan Massonnat, owner of the new Domaine Belargus*

Was initially called Bel Argus (2 words) now Belargus (one word) 

Last Thursday (3rd January) we had a very useful and interesting journey and visit to meet Ivan Massonnat at the winery of Pithon-Paillé in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay. During last year Ivan bought Jo Pithon's vineyards, Pascal Laffourcade's ten hectares of Quarts de Chaume and nearly three hectares in Savennières – creating his new Domaine Bel Argus, which I think is an exciting project for both Anjou and for Loire Chenin Blanc, the new domaine's sole focus.

We met Ivan and his new winemaker 24-year-old Adrien Moreau. Ivan explained how the new venture had come about.

"It had been intended that Jules, Jo Pithon's son and his partner Tania, would take over Pithon-Paillé. However, Jules and Tania separated and Jules decided against taking over. Jo and Isabelle, Jo's wife, decided to sell as they were ready to retire. Because of the frosts 2016 and 2017 had been difficult for Jo."
For a number of years Ivan has had a house in Champigny-sur-Veude to the south of Chinon. "For a long time I have been looking to buy a domaine in Anjou. I am particularly interested in single varietal wines and am a lover of those from Burgundy and have a passion for Chenin Blanc. I have often spoken with Patrick Baudouin. Last February I was with Patrick at the Salon des Vins de Loire. He told me that Jo Pithon's  estate was up for sale. I had never heard of Jo."

Patrick took Ivan to meet Jo at the Salon and early next day he was with Jo visiting the steeply sloping Clos des Treilles. There were a few others interested in acquiring Jo's domaine but Ivan soon emerged as the front-runner and the deal was completed on 6th June. Ivan explained that the Clos is not in the best state with some vines missing. The financial restraints imposed by the two successive years of frost would have made it difficult to do all the necessary replacements. 

 

Generous 2018 crop @l’Echarderie

At the same time Ivan bought Pascal Laffourcade's ten hectares in the Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru. These ten hectares are in one sole block around Pascal's Château de l’Echarderie. This represents a quarter of the appellation. I mentioned that I had been been walking in the Quarts de Chaume in October last year and had noted that the vines around l'Echarderie were carrying a considerable crop. "We made mostly dry wines from these grapes," said Ivan.  

More recently Ivan has bought nearly three hectares in Savennières adjacent to the Roche aux Moines. This brings his new domaine up to 26 hectares. 

 Adrien Moreau

Ivan encouraged Adrien, the young wine-maker, to introduce himself. 

"I joined in October for the end of the harvest." Adrien said. "I come from the Beauce and my parents are cereal farmers.  I studied wine-making at Paris and Montpellier along with spells at Cheval Blanc, Haut-Brion and Harlan Estate in the Napa Valley. In April 2018 I joined Roederer in Champagne and was there for the harvest, which was exceptional. I was very interested by the Roederer's vine collection and especially the work on Pinot Noir sélection massale,"

"What I like about Adrien," added Ivan, "is that he is more than a technician. Adrien is passionate about wine, a good taster and very keen to learn."

"2019 will be a year of reflection," explained Ivan. "This is a collective adventure – it is not about my ego. Anjou is not well known. Wine amateurs are becoming aware that Anjou has some grand terroirs." Ivan is keen that the general wine drinking public discover Anjou's potential. The current winery in Saint-Lambert will be considerably improved. It hasn't been decided whether to demolish the old building and start again. Possibly they may decide to build a new winery elsewhere.

Other details of Domaine Belargus were covered in an earlier post here.   

After introducing the project we went down into the cellar to taste the 2018 Chenins from barrel. Covering dry wines from Savennières, Les Bonnes Blanches (Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay), dry Chenin made in the Quarts de Chaume and Les Treilles. We finished with the sweet wines – delicacy and finesse from Belargus, Les Treilles (tiny production), 1er Cru Chaume Coteaux du Layon, and two parcels in the Quarts de Chaume – Les Rovers et Les Quarts with the latter currently more expressive. Ambroisie (35.5˚ potential) from Quarts de Chaume set us up for our return to the Cher Valley.  These wines are all still babies but 2018 looks very promising, very precise and well balanced. 

 Jo Pithon

Jo Pithon joined us part of the way through the tasting. He looked very relaxed – retirement is clearly suiting him!  It was also apparent that he and Ivan have a mutual respect. 

Ivan and Jo

Suffice to say that I was very impressed by Ivan and his Chenin Blanc project. Ivan stressed that this is very much a nine-strong team of mixed ages from Adrien in his early twenties to Jo at retirement and Guy Bossard, as the consultant for helping the entire domaine to become biodynamic. Interesting and encouraging that Ivan has persuaded Guy to take Belargus on as his only consultancy, choosing someone who knows the Loire intimately and not plumping for a 'stellar' consultant from Bordeaux or elsewhere and who already advises a large clutch of domaines.

After the harvest all of the team piled into mini-bus and headed to Côte Rotie where they visited a number of vignerons that Jo knows well. In addition to this team building Ivan stressed that they all meet regularly and that everyone is kept informed about what is happening in all aspects of the domaine. 

Jo's last business partner – Philip Fournier (Now Domaine FL) turned out to be a distressing disaster. I hope and think it very likely that that this new project will work much better and Jo will see his work, particularly on the Clos des Treilles, carried on and taken to the next level.

I asked Jo how this new partnership compared to his previous business arrangement. Diametrically different was the response...... 

  

 

Ivan, Jo and Adrien   

Bel avenir pour Bel Argus ?

Ivan Massonnat, owner of the new Domaine Bel Argus  

Today we had a very useful and interesting journey and visit to meet Ivan Massonnat at the winery of Pithon-Paillé in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay. During last year Ivan bought Jo Pithon's vineyards, Pascal Laffourcade's ten hectares of Quarts de Chaume and nearly three hectares in Savennières – creating his new Domaine Bel Argus, which I think is an exciting project for both Anjou and for Chenin Blanc, the new domaine's sole focus.

This post will be expanded considerably but suffice to say that I was very impressed by Ivan and his Chenin Blanc project. Jo's last business partner – Philip Fournier (Now Domaine FL) turned out to be a distressing disaster. I hope and thuink it very likely that that this new project will work much better and Jo will see his work, particularly on the Clos des Treilles. carried on and taken to the next level. 

  

Ivan and Jo       

Domaine Bel Argus: further details of Ivan Massonnat's new venture in Anjou

The rare butterfly that has inspired the 

name of Ivan Massonnat's new domaine 

Further details have just come through of Ivan Massonnat's exciting new venture in Anjou.

Back in June Massonnat bought Jo Pithon's domaine, which includes the Coteau des Treilles, a steep parcel in the commune of Beaulieu that overlooks the Layon. At the same time Massonnat acquired 10 hectares in the Quarts de Chaume from Laffourcade – giving him a quarter of this Grand Cru. 

Massonnat has now completed his new domaine of 26 hectares with some parcels (3 hectares in total) in Savennières. This includes the Clos des Ruchères, which is next to appellation Roche aux Moines. 

The new estate, to be 100% biodynamic, is to be called Bel Argus after a rare butterfly that is found in the Coteau des Treilles and inspires Jo Pithon's rare cuvée – Belargus des Treilles.

Massonnat has also finalised his team of seven – a blend of youth and experience. Jo Pithon remains involved with Guy Bossard, one of the earliest Loire producers to adopt biodynamics, as a consultant. 24-year-old Adrien Moreau is the winemaker with 27 year-old Geoffroi Cocard as the chef du culture (i/c vineyards) and 29 year-old Amaury Chartier, who will be responsible for looking after the Coteau des Treilles, whose very steep slopes will doubtless keep him fit! 

Jo Pithon's négociant business, Pithon-Paillé, will continue alongside Domaine Bel Argus as a complementary company. 

This promises to be a very exciting project – one which should boost the reputation of Anjou, Chenin Blanc and bring further interest to Loire wines. Jo Pithon's career has had its share of ups and downs. I hope that this new venture will see Jo's now 40 year-old time as a winemaker ending on a high. Certainly the new venture has been lucky with having 2018 as its first vintage.

I look forward to meet Ivan Massonnat in the near future and learning more about Domaine Bel Argus.         


Press release: 4.12.18

'LE DOMAINE « BEL ARGUS » COMPLÈTE SA COLLECTION DE GRANDS 
TERROIRS DE L’ANJOU

Six mois après avoir repris le domaine de Jo Pithon,
Ivan Massonnat s’implante à Savennières et finalise son équipe. 
 

LE PITHON-PAILLE AU DOMAINE « BEL ARGUS »
En acquérant le domaine Pithon-Paillé, Ivan Massonnat a réalisé son reve de passionné, et a posé les fondations d’un grand projet : bâtir un vignoble d’exception sur les plus beaux terroirs de l’Anjou pour y produire de grands Chenins en Biodynamie. 


Ivan Massonnat finalise aujourd’hui le périmètre foncier de son domaine, en s’implantant sur la commune de Savennières : il reprend en fermage un ensemble de vignes à la famille Taillandier et lui rachète un terroir d’exception (le Clos des Ruchères). Il exploitera désormais près de 3 hectares sur cette appellation recherchée. Accolée au Clos, une maison de charme style 1900 sera transformée en lieu d’accueil. Disposant d’une cave sous-terraine (chose rare pour cette région de schistes), cette maison deviendra le lieu d’élevage de toutes les cuvées de Savennières. 


Le nouveau domaine, dorénavant constitué, s’appellera BEL ARGUS, en hommage à la cuvée la plus rare que produisait Jo Pithon (« Belargus des Treilles »). C’est aussi le nom d’un petit papillon bleu très rare à cette latitude, mais présent sur le terroir du Coteau des Treilles, qui a vocation à incarner un message universel : la beauté et la fragilité de la Nature. 

UNE COLLECTION DE GRANDS TERROIRS DE L’ANJOU
Avec cette dernière acquisition, le Domaine Bel Argus atteint sa taille finale de 26 hectares, et s’articule désormais autour de 3 terroirs exceptionnels : 

Le Coteau des Treilles (Monopole), joyau du domaine Pithon-Paillé : un coteau de 3 hectares exposé plein Sud, abandonné après-guerre à cause de ses fortes pentes (30 à 70%). Il est situé dans un écrin de biodiversité, au sein d’une zone classée « Réserve Naturelle Régionale » (cogérée avec la LPO). 

Les Quarts de Chaume (Grand Cru) : 10 hectares d’un seul tenant (soit un quart de cette micro-appellation, la seule AOC classée « Grand Cru » de tout le Val de Loire), comprenant les parcelles historiques de l’appellation : « Les Quarts » et « Les Rouères », notamment. 

Le Clos des Ruchères (Savennières), objet du présent rachat : 45 ares d’un coteau abrupt, clos de murs et implanté sur de magnifiques schistes pourpres. Défriché et replanté il y a une dizaine d’années seulement, il est contigu à la zone d’appellation « Roche-aux- Moines ». 

ESPRIT « START-UP » ET VISION BOURGUIGNONNE 
C’est avec la même énergie qu’Ivan Massonnat a constitué une équipe jeune et passionnée, comptant désormais 7 personnes, ayant toutes fait leurs armes auprès de domaines référents.

Le jeune winemaker, Adrien Moreau (24 ans), est fils d’agriculteurs du Val de Loire. Ingénieur Agronome et Œnologue de formation, il a bâti son expérience dans des domaines réputés (Cheval Blanc, Haut-Brion, Harlan Estate, Roederer). Très investi à ses cotés, Jo Pithon continue de faire profiter le Domaine de son expérience de vinificateur (40 millésimes au compteur) et de sa connaissance intime des terroirs de l’Anjou. 

Sur la partie vignoble, le chef de culture précédemment en place, Geoffroi Cocard (27 ans) a été rejoint par trois autres personnes. Parmi elles, un ancien du domaine Roc d’Anglade, Amaury Chartier (29 ans), sera entièrement dédié au Coteau des Treilles, avec pour mission de le travailler « comme un jardin ». L’équipe vignoble bénéficiera de l’accompagnement de Guy Bossard, pionnier de la Biodynamie en France et ancien propriétaire du Domaine de l’Ecu en Muscadet (certifié Bio dès 1972). 

L’équipe du Domaine Bel Argus, conjuguant jeunesse et expérience, a eu la chance de se fédérer autour du millésime 2018, déjà annoncé comme exceptionnel. 

Elle s’inscrira dans la vision bourguignonne chère à Ivan Massonnat : exprimer la quintessence des terroirs, à travers le prisme du parcellaire, grâce à des sols vivants et une biodiversité protégée. Un vaste plan de restructuration et d’investissement a été lancé, avec pour objectifs prioritaires le soin du matériel végétal et la précision apportée à chaque étape de la vinification. Le Domaine vise à être rapidement 100% certifié en Biodynamie. 

PITHON-PAILLE DEMEURE
A coté du Domaine détenu en propre, subsistera le négoce-artisan « Pithon-Paillé » créé par Jo Pithon il y a 10 ans. L’objectif est de compléter la gamme du Domaine avec les meilleurs terroirs ligériens, en appellations Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, Chinon ou Crémant de Loire. Les gammes seront bien distinctes et s’adresseront, à terme, à des marchés complémentaires.

2018 Loire – brief report from Anjou + making a Grand Cru credible

 

Chenin Blanc destined for a single cuvée of moelleux 

at Domaine de Juchepie

 

Picker's hat held in place by a local stone

We spent last Wednesday and Thursday in Anjou on a quick visit to see how the harvest has been going here. Overall the message is much the same as in other parts of the Loire. Several producers commented that they had never seen grapes like these before – giving both quality and quantity.

Of the producers we saw many started in early September – Damien Laureau (4th September and finishing by 10th September), sisters Anne and Marie Guégniard, Domaine de la Bergerie (6th September) and Vincent, Catherine and Emmanuel Ogereau also on 6th.

I tasted juice/fermenting wine at all three domaines and I found them all clean and precise often with potential complexity depending on the particular parcel and age of vine.

Visiting Claude and Réné Papin at late Wednesday afternoon, Claude was critical of producers who he thought had picked to early and suggested that many 2018 wines would be simple, fruit driven without complexity because the grapes had been picked before they were physiologically ripe. The counter argument to this is that picking started in early September to avoid alcohol degrees shooting up to ridiculous heights due to the very warm conditions. Some of Damien Laureau's cuvées are at 14.5% despite starting and finishing early.

It will be exciting to taste these wines when they are finished. Perhaps we will be able to see who got it right....... may be!

Once again the one sour note in 2018 is mildew with some very badly affected. We dropped in to see Eddy et Mylène Oosterlinck-Bracke(Domaine de Juchepie). Sadly they have been badly hit by mildew this year which has affected their morale as they have lost around two thirds of their crop. This means that instead of making a thrilling range of different sweet wines they will probably just make one. From the limited first pressing, however, it is already at 22% potential alcohol.

 

Cabernet Franc for Petra Alba, Anjou-Villages Brissac,
Domaine de Bablut

•••

Quarts de Chaume – the Loire's only Grand Cru – must be credible

 

Approved in November 2011 the appellation Quarts de Chaume (some 43 hectares) remains the only Grand Cru in the Loire and seems likely to remain the valley's solitary Grand Cru for some time to come. Its rules are strict and precise with clear indications of how these rules should be monitored. This is as it should be as Quarts de Chaume can be one of the world's great sweet wines.

 

 

Very promising bunch – clearly showing
Chenin's typical variable ripening pattern

 

At least 12 bunches on this vine

Maximum yield per vine fixed at 1.7 kilos or 

2.5 kilos for any vignes larges 

(low density plantatings)

 

 

 

12 or 13 bunches on this vine perhaps more
– weighing just 1.7 kilos in total?

On Thursday morning I spent about an hour walking around the eastern part of the Quarts de Chaume appellation – the part to the east of the hamlet of Chaume. The previous afternoon I had spent a little time in the western part – unfortunately during one of the rare times during this harvest when it was raining. Here Baumard's vines had been picked – probably recently, so I cannot comment on their condition except that in his parcel on the plateau the grapes are often amongst the most advanced in terms of ripeness and incidence of botrytis. Whether the fact that these are vignes larges (low density vines) is a factor is an interesting question.

The fruit that I saw on Thursday morning were in variable states of ripeness – a characteristic of Chenin Blanc. On the whole the vines had a limited crop with the notable exception of a parcel of vines immediately east of the Château Echarderie – see photos above. It may be that the owner of this parcel is not intending this year to make Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru from this parcel. If so, this would be the correct decision, as unless these bunches are remarkably light, they appear likely to weigh considerably more than the maximum 1.7 kilos per vine allowed in the legislation of 22nd November 2011.

It would, however, be a little strange if the owner of this parcel is not intending to make 2018 Quarts de Chaume from these vines as the price point for Quarts de Chaume is naturally higher than any other labelling options. In which case, the 'control sur terrain' should have ruled this parcel ineligible for the appellation Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru until the crop had been reduced in line with the regulations. Given that this is a small prestigious appellation it should be easy to carry out the necessary checks and, if some parcels have an excessive crop, the rules (22.11.2011) make it clear that they should not benefit from Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru appellation. The particular over-loaded parcel was right by one of the main unmetalled tracks through the appellation and certainly not tucked away in a hard to find spot.

Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru is proudly promoted by the Loire as an exceptional wine. Claude Papin, president of the Quarts de Chaume producers, is rightly concerned that all bottles of Quarts to Chaume are up to standard. Wine buyers have the right to be assured that all growers in the Quarts de Chaume respect the rules and that the premium these wines can rightly command is justified.

I made some similar points on Jim's Loire around this time last year on vines that had a noticeably low weight of crop.

Jo Pithon sells his domaine – Clos des Treilles – to Ivan Massonnat

Isabelle and Jo Pithon @ time of launch of Pithon-Paillé

2009 Salon des Vins de Loire 

Isabelle and Jo are on the right

La Revue du Vin de France reports that Jo Pithon has sold his domaine, which includes the steep sided Clos des Treilles overlooking the River Layon to 46-year-old Ivan Massonnat, a financier who is understood to be devoted fan of Chenin Blanc. 

Jo rescued and replanted the Clos, which is on the north bank of the Layon in the commune of Beaulieu-sur-Layon, with Chenin Blanc and made a number of very fine vintages of dry Chenin from this special site. 

In addition to acquiring Jo and Isabelle's domaine LARVF reports that Massonat has acquired a total of 10 hectares of Quarts de Chaume, which makes him the appellation's largest owner with some 25% of the appellation. This is includes the 0.22 hectares of Quarts de Chaume held by Jo Pithon with the rest bought by Massonnat from Pascal Laffourcade.  

LARVF reports that Massonnat is now looking for someone to run his new domaine for him. 

It is good news that Jo Pithon has sold his domaine, which will allow Jo to retire, and will mean that both the Clos des Treilles will continue and that there is the potential for some very good Quarts de Chaume to be made. 

Read the rest of the LARVF report here.  

 Les Treilles from south bank of Layon

2017 Loire – Quarts de Chaume: Grand Cru status comes with responsibilities

 Track to Les Martinières

After visiting Domaines de la Bergerie and Ogereau last Tuesday we had a very quick look at what fruit was left to pick in the Quarts de Chaume. We took part of the the track up to Les Martinières. 

With no claims that what I saw was representative of the Grand Cru appellation this year – we only looked at a small part and this is well into the harvest – but the fruit management looked worrying variable. On some vines there were clumps of  bunches with individual vines looking to carry a substantial weight of grapes. Under the 2011 regulations that set up Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru the maximum weight of grapes on each individual vine is set at 1.7 kilos – for the remaining Vignes Larges (more widely spaced vines) 2.5 kilos are allowed. 

I have been a strong supporter of Quarts de Chaume becoming a Grand Cru, which it did in 2011. However, the Grand Cru status surely imposes certain responsibilities and accepting a commitment to very high quality on all of the producers. There are 20 producers with just 29 hectares in the Quarts de Chaume. Given that two producers – Baumard and Suronde – have some 12 of these 29 hectares – that means that the average for the remaining 18 producers is less than a hectare. Allied this with the status of grand cru and price that these wines can command, there should be no excuse for less than impeccable viticulture in the Quarts de Chaume. Otherwise the consumer is being taken for a ride, which is exactly the reason I have been critical of Baumard's methods.

Grand cru viticulture?  

You cannot be serious!    

I should make it clear that none of the vines in the photos below belong to Domaine des Baumard. On this occasion we didn't have time to visit any of their parcels.

Mix of botrytis and golden grapes 

– typical of Chenin's variable ripening 

– on this well spaced out bunch

Similarly above and below

Some spread out bunches but two clumps 

– just 1.7 kilos of grapes on this vine? 

Surely the bunches on these vines should have been thinned 

Is this viticulture of grand cru standard? 

(above and two below) 

Grand Cru viticulture?

 

Three Musketeers' tasting and dinner: Emmanuel Ogereau

A week last Saturday we – Nigel Wilkinson and Tom King of RSJ Restaurant, Chris Kissack and myself – had an excellent tasting with three Anjou domaines. Domaine de la Bergerie, Domaine Ogereau and Château Pierre-Bise make up the trio of domaines we have dubbed the Three Musketeers.  

There has been a two-year gap since the last Musketeers tasting. During this interval the younger generation have moved increasingly to the fore. The format for the event remains the same – presentation and tasting of the latest wines from all three domaines following by dinner at La Table de la Bergerie.      

Emmanuel Ogereau, Domaine Ogereau

Emmanuel with a cask sample of their first vintage 

of Quarts de Chaume (2015) 

The generational change was immediately underlined with Emmanuel Ogereau presenting the wines of Domaine Ogereau (23 hectares) rather than Vincent, his father. Vincent and Catherine Ogereau did, however, claim the right to dinner over Emmanuel!

It was impressive to see Emmanuel do an assured presentation in English – before returning to the family domaine at Saint Lambert-du-Lattay he worked in New Zealand and Oregon. 

Highlights from the tasting of the Ogereaus' latest wines included: 

2014 Anjou en Chenin  

From vines planted on grey schist in Saint Lambert du Lattay and picked in several tris selecting golden Chenin. Wild ferment in 500-litre oak casks. Good weight and texture, honeyed with attractive acidity in the finish. Aging potential.   

2013 Clos Grand Beaupréau, Savennières

From two parcels. Mid-yellow colour, textured, some honey, clean, precise, good length and balance.  

2014 Clos Grand Beaupréau, Savennières  

Richer and fuller than the 2013 with good weight, texture and citric character.  Lovely wine. 

2014 Vent de Spilite, 
From eight rows of old Chenin vines. Just one barrel – richly textured, attractive length and bright acidity in the finish.

2014 L'Enthousiasme Savennières
From a vein of sandstone, richly textured, honey and citric notes.  

Reds
2013 Anjou Rouge   

85% Cabernet Franc, 15% Grolleau. Juicy still youthful, slight greeness but good for this difficult year. 

2014 Anjou Rouge
Blend the same as in 2013 but naturally richer and fuller with attractive red fruits and some potential to age, although really made to drink young. 

2013 Côte de la Houssaye, Anjou Villages 

100% Cabernet Sauvignon from an especially warm site. This cuvée is only released in good vintages. Given the difficulty of the 2013 vintage this has surprisingly soft blackcurrant fruit. The Ogereaus only released a small amount of the 2013 Houssaye.    

2014 Côte de la Houssaye, Anjou Villages 

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripely textured black fruits, mouthfilling, big structure with ripe tannins, nicely balanced although needs more time.

Sweet wines
Conditions in 2014 made it impossible to make very concentrated sweet wines in this vintage. The 2014 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert is delicately sweet and nicely balanced with fresh acidity making it a more versatile wine, if less impressive than the very concentrated cuvées. There is certainly a trend towards this style of sweet wine in Anjou. 

2014 Harmonie de Bonnes Blanches, Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay 
Lovely 100% botrytis, rich but delicate freshness from the acidity. The Ogereaus look for concentration but also pick early to keep freshness.  

2010 Clos des Bonnes Blanches, Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay
Just lovely balance of sweet fruit and acidity from a great sweet wine vintage.    

No Clos des Bonnes Blanches was made in 2015 as the Ogereaus wanted to concentrate on their first vintage in their parcel of Quarts de Chaume. We tasted their very promising and exciting 2015 Quarts de Chaume, which is still fermenting.  

 

To come: René Papin (Château Pierre-Bise)  

René Papin, Château Pierre-Bise

Yves Guegniard (Domaine de la Bergerie)

 

Dinner at La Table de la Bergerie