2018 Loire – is this the birth of a legendary vintage?

 Pinot Noir awaiting sorting 

@Domaine Henri Bourgeois

On Friday Alphone Mellot snr was categorical: "This is a mythical vintage – 1947 but with quantity!" Alphonse Père was born in 1947 – obviously he will remember little of that year but says that he has never seen a vintage of this quality.

We will see but certainly overall the fruit from the vineyards we have so far visited –  Pays Nantais, Chinon, Montlouis, AC Touraine, Sancerre, Saint-Pourçain, Côte Roannaise and Côtes de Forez – has been very clean and healthy with almost no rot. For those producers equipped with sorting tables there has been little for the sorters to do apart from removing the odd leaf or grapes that have been shriveled by the sun. 

Gamay @Vincent Roussely

Alphonse Snr is not alone in never having seeing fruit like this. Vincent Roussely of Clos Roussely in Angé (AC Touraine): "This is my 19th vintage and I have never seen grapes like these." His Sauvignon Blanc is averaging 13.5% alcohol but still with good acidity plus a yield of 50 hl/ha when 30 hl/ha is his normal yield – Vincent farms organically.

In Bué (AC Sancerre) I tasted several juices – some that were just starting to ferment – with Florent Pinard. They were very clean, rich but with a freshness in the finish – surprising as for a number of days during the harvest temperatures were 30˚C and more. Fortunately many in Sancerre are equipped with liquid CO2 to cool down the grapes rapidly when they arrive at the winery. Also a number of producers, like François and Carine Crochet and Vincent and Adelaide Grall who pick by hand, started early in morning and finished at lunchtime. 

I also tasted a number of 2018 juices with Pascal Jolivet during a brief but very interesting visit. As at the Pinards the 2018 juices look very promising. It was good of Pascal to give up some of his valuable time, especially as his Italian winemaker had fallen that morning, hit her head and was in hospital. I wish her a swift recovery.  

After two difficult years due to frost producers in Pouilly-Fumé are happy both with the quality and quantity. "We had just 18 hl/ha in 2016," Loic Cailbourdin told me. 'The following year it was 28 hl/ha. This year we are averaging 60 hl/ha, although it is less in some parcels." 

Sauvignon Blanc@ Domaine Vacheron 

awaiting pressing        

There are as always exceptions and caveats:

Mildew has been a severe problem for certain producers, especially those practising organic viticulture and in certain appellations such as Montlouis. In Thursday post I mentioned that Jacky Blot had been very badly hit in some parcels but not in the 'grand terroirs'. When I saw Xavier Weisskopf on Wednesday he said his yield this year is 22 hl/ha. Xavier has had a real roller coaster over the last three years. Last year his yield was 55 hl/ha while in 2016 it was just 1 hl/ha due to the series of April frosts. He had to buy in grapes from Vouvray to make up the deficit. 

High degrees of alcohol may also prove to be a problem if only to make 2018 not a 'typical' Loire vintage – just as 1989 and 2003 produced wines that have characteristics of vineyards much further south in France. 14% alcohol levels are 'normal' this year, they head up into 15% and even in some rare cases 16% and above. 16.6% is the highest reported. Of course it will usually be possible to blend these powerful lots with those with lower alcohol. There is also the question whether juice at 15.5˚- 16˚+ will actually ferment dry. 

Philippe Gilbert (Menetou-Salon), who found the heat of the vintage particularly tiring, said: "My concern is that the 2018 wines will not be typical of the Loire rather they will have the characteristics of wines from much further south." I suggested to Philippe that this was also the case in 1989 and 2003, for instance. Philippe was relieved that his pH readings were in the right range. 

Of the producers I have seen all have been satisfied – in some cases relieved – that the pH in their juice are correct – most around 3.15-3.30. There are some unconfirmed rumours that the pH levels for some other producers are considerably higher but I didn't come across any producer worried about high pH levels. 

One of the positive weather factors this year was the wet and humid end of May and early June. This meant that there was a reserve of water available for the very dry months that followed. However, young vines on well drained soils have suffered as their root systems are not as well developed as older vines. 

Later today we are headed to Bourgueil, Chinon and Saint Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Here I think picking started during last week, so it will be interesting to catch up on what has been happening.  

Sorting @Domaine Vincent Delaporte  

before going through their new
automatic tilted
plate press

     

      

2017 Loire – good news for a change in Menetou-Salon

 The view eastwards from Menetou-Salon

 towards Parassy and Morogues 

Following the Loire vintage is always fascinating. No two years are the same – each one has their different challenges. Overall, from what we have seen in the Pays Nantais, Touraine, Menetou-Salon and Sancerre, there should be some very good wine made this year. All the juices I have tasted this year to date have been round with variable degrees of potential alcohol. Generally rich, ripe fruit – often around 13% with the acidity between 5 and 5.4, so well balanced. 

On our way over from Touraine we first dropped in on Philippe Gilbert, just on the eastern edge of the small town of Menetou-Salon. In contrast to last year when he made virtually nothing, 2017 has given him a good harvest. Philippe started slowly on 11th September on his Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are coming in around 12.0 to 12.8˚ with acidities around 4.7. 

After last year's  shockingly small vintage in in Menetou-Salon it is good to see that producers like Philippe Gilbert have been blessed with a generous harvest. Last Tuesday (12th September) they harvested as much, if not more, of what they picked last year in total.

Philippe is bringing in 50 hl/ha for his Pinot Noir for rosé, while his whites are fine at around 55/60 hl/ha. 2017 is a generous harvest. This often happens after a severe frost, which gives the vines a rest, so the following year they tend to produce big harvest. This happened in in 1992 following the severe frost of 1991. 

After a week of harvesting they have about another ten days left. The contrast between Philippe's demeanour of last year and this is very marked. He is now a 'happy boy'!  

Wednesday will be 'Les Vendanges pour les Copains'. Under this laudable initiative Philippe and his team will be picking for friends like Fred Niger in Muscadet, who have been very severely affected by the April frosts. It provides them with some wine that hopefully will keep them afloat in these difficult times.     

  

Domaine Henri Pellé

The news here was also very positive: they started on Thursday 7th September – a day before the actual Ban des Vendanges. Again 2017 is a generous harvest with 60 hl/ha for their Sauvignon Blanc, while they are getting 50 hl/ha at 13% potential for the Pinot Noir. We tasted some of the juices for the Sauvignon Blanc, which were impressive – good fruit, very clean and well balanced with attractive freshness in the finish.  

Most of the picking so far has been in their vineyards in the commune of Menetou-Salon. Only now are they picking in Morogues, which is a little higher in altitude, so ripens a little later. 

In the Pellé vines Les Blanchais:

We visited Les Blanchais near Morogues where there was a big team of more than 50 pickers.    

 One of the Pellé pickers

 One of the pickers

Drowning in vines......?

 Capped picker

 Carrying a hod up and down 

the slope is tough work

Trailer @the bottom of the slope

Les Blanchais is a steeply sloping vineyard  

2017 Tour de France: Marcel Kittel wins + Stage 3 preview

Stage result

  Marcel Kittel wins in Liège, Arnaud Demarre 2nd, 

André Griepel 3rd, Mark Cavendish 4th  

Overall standings 

Geraint Thomas retains Yellow Jersey, Kittel up to 3rd

Marcel Kittel won the close and massed bunch sprint in Liège, although the day's two breakaways nearly made it to the line. They were swallowed up just over one kilometre from the finish. After his illness Mark Cavendish must be pretty satisfied with his fourth place. He had latched onto Marcel Kittel's wheel but didn't have the pace nor really the space to come through. Kittel moved up to 3rd overall. He now has 10 TDF stage wins to his name just one behind André Griepel. 

As I mentioned in my preview of Stage 2 there is always a danger of crashes in the early stages of the Tour. Unfortunately Chris Froome and Romain Bardet were involved in a pile up about 30 kilometres from the finish. Both managed to get back onto the peloton and there were no serious injuries. 

Early on in the stage Luke Durbridge was forced to abandon following injury sustained from crashing during Saturday's Time Trial. He had hoped to ride through today but his proved impossible. 

Côte des Religieuses 1.6 kms @ 5.8%

The final climb

Stage 3 preview: Verviers to Longwy  212.5 kilometres 

Today's stage will be another longish day in the saddle. Starting in Belgium going into Luxembourg before finishing in France this is will be a decidedly lumpy stage with very little flat. Instead continuously up and down – three 4th category climbs and two 3rd category that includes the last 1.6 kms.

After the TT this finish will be a test for the overall contenders not to lose time on the sharp final climb. The steepest section (11%) is lower down, while at the top it flattens out. 

This would have suited Valverde but he is out after his crash in the TT. Contenders for the stage include Philippe Gilbert, Peter Sagan, Greg Van Avermaet, Dan Martin and Edvard Boassen Hagen as well as the overall contenders. Chris Froome has shown good form on these types of finish. Nor can you discount Richie Porte. Overall contenders are unlikely to lose any significant time but gaining a few seconds is always good for morale. 

With an uphill finish splits on the line are back to one second.  

It seems unlikely that Marcel Kittel and other straight out sprinters will be in contention at this finish, so little chance of Kittel adding to his 10 bonus seconds gained yesterday to take the Yellow Jersey from Geraint Thomas. 

It is just possible that rather than a procession to the final hill that some riders will look to shake up the race over the lumpy terrain. Let's hope so!       

2016 Loire: photos from Sancerre today celebrating a memorable vintage

Machine harvesting at Henry Natter (Montigny)

He used to harvest by hand but found it impossible to get pickers

 Henry Natter 

 

 2016 Sauvignon Blanc – Henry Natter

 Sancerre in late afternoon sunlight 

Towards Verdigny and Sury-en-Vaux from Sancerre 

Looking southward from Sancerre 

towards Pouilly and Saint-Andelain

 

 Looking southward from Sancerre 

towards Pouilly

(above and below)

 

 

Autumnal colours

 

 

Jean-Yves Delaporte at the sorting table  

Jean-Yves Delaporte's mother (left) mother-in-law (right)

 One of the Bulgarian pickers keen to take 

photos of the wine-making process 

Matthieu, Jean-Yves and Natalie Delaporte 

Domaine Vincent Delaporte

Vincent Matthieu's grandfather died a few months ago

This is the first harvest without him 

Pinot Noir tumbling onto the sorting table 

Cycling: a look back at the first third of 2013

Jim's VTT on Les Monts Damnés: April 2013

Dan Martin's great win yesterday in Liège-Bastogne-Liège, the last of the Spring classics, has brought the first third of the 2013 cycling season to a fitting close. With the Giro d'Italia starting at the beginning of May, it is time to look at the successes and failures so far.

Fabian Cancellara has done the big double again – the Tour of Flanders followed by the Paris-Roubaix a week later. Both were impressive victories, although Flanders was won in Cancellara's signature style by cracking the last of his oponents – Peter Sagan – on the final climb and then time-trialling to the finish powering away from the field. Six seconds on Sagan at the top of the climb turning into around a minute and half by the finish some 13 kilometres later.  In contrast Cancellara's victory at Roubiax was down to a last gasp sprint. 

I suspect Peter Sagan will have mixed feelings over his spring campaign. He won the Gent-Wevelgem and the Brabantse Piji and has had a string of second places including the Strade Bianche, Milan San Remo and the Tour of Flanders. His form tailed off at the end in the Amstel Gold and Flèche Wallone. Sagan will have been disappointed not to have yet won one of the major classics but his time will surely come. Hopefully he will not repeat the childish and unpleasant stupidity of pinching the hostess's bottom on the Tour of Flanders podium. 

The very cold weather and consequent prolonation of winter has, until very recently, made the early European season very tough, especially the Milan San Remo and the Gent-Wevelgem.        

Good to see Roman Kreuziger win the Amstel Gold, although there are at present unanswered questions over his relationship with the disgraced doctor Michele Ferrari. Also Daniel Moreno's win in the Flèche Wallonne and finally Dan Martin's great victory yesterday in Liège, which follows his victory in the stage race – Tour of Catalonia.

However, there have been no Belgian victories this year in their specialist field with World Champion Philippe Gilbert threatening at times but always falling back at the last moment.       

Team Sky has had it successes in stage races – Chris Froome in the Tour of Oman and Critérium International, and Richie Porte – Paris-Nice, but haven't managed a one day classic this year. 

Equally Mark Cavendish's move to Omega Pharma-Quick Step hasn't been a complete success yet. He has won some victories but on other occasions the Omega Pharma-Quick Step chain hasn't fully functioned – certainly not on the level of HTC Columbia or Team Sky. Interesting to see that there is speculation about Mark Renshaw, Mark's brilliant lead-out man while with Columbia, may team up with Mark next year at Omega Pharma-Quick Step.

We also see the Columbians coming back with Nairo Quintana winning the Tour of the Basque Country, Sergio Henao and Rigoberto Urán at Team Sky and the impressive Carlos Betancur, who came close to winning the Flèche Wallonne.  

Looking ahead to the Giro d'Italia Vincenzo Nibali looked in good shape in winning the Giro del Trentino, especially on the last stage when he climbed away from the rest of the field. It was unfortunate for Bradley Wiggins that he had a mechanical problem at the start of the final climb, so we don't know whether Bradley would have been able to match Nibali and he had done the day before. Certainly Bradley's start to the 2013 season has been more low-key than last year.     

2012 Menetou-Salon: Philippe Gilbert

Philippe Gilbert with a bunch of his Pinot Noir 

On the way back from Sancerre we dropped into see Philippe Gilbert in Menetou-Salon – the vigneron not the new World Road Race Champion! Philippe: "We started picking last Thursday (27th September) with the Pinot Noir, which has been coming in at between 13% and 13.8% potential. Then on Monday we started on the Sauvignon, which is around 13.5% with 5.5 acidity. Overall yields are about 35 hl/ha. There is little juice in the grapes, which is reducing the yield. We pick everything by hand."  

Cases of Pinot Noir awaiting sorting (above and below)

2012 Tour de France: 1st Stage: Liège - Seraing – not straightforward!

 

Café du Nord in Menetou-Salon decorated  for passage of Tour de France in 2009

If there are crashes at the wrong time, today's stage could provide some unpleasant surprises for the overall favourites. Hopefully there will be no crashes but the early stages of the Tour tend to be nervous and there have been significant crashes in recent editions. Forecasters appear to be split on the possibility of rain this afternoon: some have just gone for cloudy conditions with a maximum temperature of around 18˚, while others are forecasting light rain with a 40% chance of precipitation.

The riders make a big circle (198 kilometres) heading out from Liège and arriving back in the suburb of Seraing. Their ride takes in five Category 4 climbs and includes very little flat ground until just before the finishing hill starts. The uphill finish into Seraing is unlikley to favour pure sprinters. As Mark Cavendish is lighter than in previous Tours it will be interesting to see whether this will give him a better chance of showing here. 

Last year this sort of finish would have been ideal for Philippe Gilbert, who had a brilliant season in 2011. However, he rode a good prologue coming in just 13 seconds behind Cancellara, so he is certainly one of my contenders for the stage. I think Cancellara will show well – he manages these sorts of short hills well in the Spring classics like the Tour of Flanders and think he could still well be in Yellow tonight. Cadel Evans also does well in these types of uphill finish, so might try to grab a few seconds back from Bradley Wiggins. Peter Sagan is the bookies favourite after stage wins in the Three Days of De Panne, Tirreno-Adriatico, the Tour of Oman, Tour of California (five) and the Tour of Switzerland (four).  

The big priority here for the overall race favourites will be firstly not to crash and secondly not to lose time.     

2011 Tour de France: Stage 16 Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux

Today's stage that takes the race up into the Alps holds some potential threats to Mark Cavendish's lead in the points jersey. Essentially it is a long uphill climb from the Rhône Valley initially past the vineyards of the southern Côtes du Rhône past the little town of Nyons, which is famous for olive oil, and then up into the foothills of the Alps. Just before the finish in Gap there is the one categorised climb of the day – the Col de Manse a Cat 2 which goes up 9.5k at an average of 5.2%.

The danger for Mark comes if either Philippe Gilbert or José Joaquín Rojas are well placed on the climb and gain points at the finish as it is unlikely that Mark can hang in on such a climb. The ideal for Mark is that a fair sized bunch gets away early on. Providing there isn't anyone who is a threat to the favourites in the escape they will probably be let go allowing the leading contenders and their teams to conserve energy for the three Alpine stages to come. HTC will have to ensure that neither Gilbert or Rojas get into the escape. As Gilbert is no longer a threat overall – 20 min down – it would only be HTC who would be interested in chasing him down – similarly for Rojas.

The weather could play a role today. Météo France forecasts heavy, stormy rain and cold temperatures on the climb and the finish at Gap, while the Tour's own forecast has some rain earlier in the day but a dry but cool finish in Gap. Hopefully it will be dry for the descent and finish into Gap as the descent is dangerous. It was here in 2004 that Joseph Beloki crashed and effectively ended his career. It is possible that Thomas Voeckler might be tempted to try an attack on the Col de Manse and gain a little bit of time on his rivals as he can descend well.

2011 Tour de France: thoughts on Stage 12 and preview of Stage 13: Pau to Lourdes

Although the first mountain stage yesterday wasn't decisive it has clarified who are the leading contenders. A number of outside bets like Klöden, Gesink and Tony Martin have been eliminated from contention.   

At the top of Luz-Ardiden the number of contenders for overall victory is now down to seven max: Andy and Frank Schleck, Cadel Evans, Ivan Basso, Damiano Cunego, Alberto Contador and Samuel Sánchez. Although it would be dangerous to discount Alberto Contador I think he and Sánchez are now outside bets. I believe we saw a tipping point when Alberto couldn't respond at the end to the attacks – he lost his aura of invincibility which even during last year's Tour was under question. It will be very interesting to see what happens on Saturday with the climb to the Plateau de Beille. There has been little discussion so far of Ivan Basso but he looked strong yesterday. He won last year's Tour of Italy, which was extraordinarily tough, and he is a good time trialist.

Good day for Mark Cavendish who increased his lead over Rojas by 2 points and over Gilbert by 6. Mark and HTC appear now to have sorted the sprints with Mark picking up maximum points after the bunch and his HTC team soaking up a number of the other points available – Mark Renshaw swallowed 8 points, so denying an additional one to Rojas. Looks like it is now only the teams of Mark C, Rojas and Gilbert who contest the intermediate sprints. Cavendish now has 260 points, Rojas 242 and Gilbert 234.

Gilbert did a great ride today but showed his limits in the high mountains when the going gets really tough. He remains a threat and could quite possibly pick up points tomorrow at Lourdes. Depends how much today took out of him. Cavendish should be able to pick up more intermediate points today.

Today's stage is from Pau to Lourdes. Quite short at 152.5 kilometres it isn't esepcially difficult with one 3rd cat and a 4th cat before the major climb of the day the Col d'Aubisque. Although it is hors categorie it is 40k from the finish in Lourdes so unlikely to play a part in the overall race. I fancy that Thomas Voeckler, who did a great ride yesterday, will remain in Yellow today – he has a lead of 1.49 on Frank Schleck. I think, however, that he is likely to lose the jersey on Saturday.    

2011 Tour de France: Stage 10: Aurillac to Carmaux

Today it is a short (158 kilometres) but lumpy stage in Cantal and the Aveyron from Aurillac to Carmaux. There are three classified climbs – two 3rd category and two 4th – so no major difficulties but another day when it is up and down with very little on the flat. The forecast is a hotter than for the last two stages – 28-30˚C so warm but not scorching.

It will be a big surprise if Thomas Voeckler loses his Yellow Jersey today. Only a crash is likely to make it happen. I expect him to hold on to Yellow at least until Thursday (Bastille Day) when the race enters the Pyrénées. Although Voeckler may not lose it on the first day there I will be very surprised if he manages to hang on right through the Pyrénées.

Despite the lumpy course today's stage might end up as a sprint and if it does Mark Cavendish will have a good chance to notch up stage win number 18. The sprinters will be keen to hold the race together as there are not many opportunities for a bunch finish remaining in this year's Tour. The shortness of the stage may make it difficult to control any breakaway.

I expect Philippe Gilbert to to gain further points today, although his lead over Cavendish may be less at the end of today.

2011 Tour de France: Stage 9: Issoire to Saint-Flour

2011 Tour: the peloton and the crash: pic of photos on laptop from steephilltv/reuters

Yesterday's stage Massif Central stage certainly proved to be much more dramatic and incident packed than anticipated. Sorry to see Vinokourov's Tour end, and probably his career, on the descent from Le Puy Mary. The lethal combination of a fast descent on wet and dry roads caused a big crash, which also took out Van den Broeck. Then there was the crazy driving incident that knocked Hoogerland and Flecha off their bikes when in the break.

Despite Vinokourov's doping history he was an exciting rider – one of the few potential leaders prepared to have a real go. Sadly there are too many who prefer to ply the cat and mouse waiting game – the percentage men.

Good to see Thomas Voeckler get the Yellow Jersey – he certainly deserved it from the amount of work he put in during the breakaway. With today being a rest day he should certainly be wearing it on Bastille Day (14th July) – the first day in the Pyrénées as the stages on Tuesday and Wednesday are not particularly difficult – providing there aren't more crashes. Whether Voeckler will still have it at the end of Bastille Day is another matter as the race climbs the Col de Tourmalet and finishes up at Luz-Ardiden. My guess is that this will depend upon whether one or several of the big contenders decides to attack early on or whether they wait for the final climb up to Luz-Ardiden. If it is the latter then Voeckler possibly has a big enough margin (2.26 mins on Cadel Evans) over the favourites to cling onto Yellow.

Philippe Gilbert continues to hoover up points for the Green Jersey leading Rojas by 38 points and Mark Cavendish by 64 points. It will be interesting to see how well Gilbert does in the high mountains as he could be on for a high overall placing as well as looking to be the strong favourite for the Green Jersey.

2011 Tour de France: Stage 8 (result) and Stage 9: Issoire to Saint-Flour

Yesterday's big surprise was that Thor Hushvod was able to keep the leader's Yellow Jersey on the first hilly stage. He was helped by the fact that nobody from the favourites really stepped it up the short, sharp Super-Besse climb to the finish with a leading group of over 20 riders finishing together just behind Rua Alberto Costa, the stage winner, and Philippe Gilbert who broke from the pack at the end.

Gilbert is now back in the Green Jersey and looks a good bet to be the winner of this jersey. Robert Gesink's hold on the White Jersey (young rider) looks a bit shaky after losing time yesterday, so it will be interesting to see how he goes on today's lumpy stage. Having had his BMC team on the front of the peloton for much of the day, it was surprising that Cadel Evans didn't make a bigger effort on the final climb to grab the two seconds he needs from Thor to take the Yellow Jersey.

Today's stage will be hard with eight categorised climbs including three 2nd category ones – Le Puy Mary, Col du Perthus and Col de Pret de Bouc (Le Plomb du Cantal). Although I suspect again that the leading contenders may well be content just to watch each other as the last big climb, le Plomb, is over 50k from the finish. Hope I'm proved wrong. I expect a group of 8-10 riders to break away near the start with some counter-attacks to come in the hilly middle section.

2011 Le Tour de France: 1st stage and Thierry Michon

Thierry Michon from Brem-sur-Mer

The 98th edition of le Tour de France started today. The Vendée was chosen to host the first few stages. Today started at the Passage du Gois and finished at the Mont des Alouettes. Philippe Gilbert, the favourite for the stage which finished at the top of a tough hill, duly won neutralising an attack from Fabien Cancellara and holding off Cadel Evans to win by three seconds. 

The big losers on the day were Alberto Contador and Samuel Sanchez caught by a crash around 7 kilometres from the finish. There was a further crash but as it was within 3k from the finish those caught up got the same time as the first group, who finished six seconds behind Gilbert.

The route passed through Brem-sur-Mer, the home of Thierry Michon (Domaine Saint-Nicolas, Fiefs Vendéens).